COB build flickering again..

CanadianONE

Well-Known Member
I can't get the lights to turn on or the meter to read with the meter inline.. I assume that DMM = Multimeter?
Yes sorry DMM = Digital Multimeter.
I would first check the fuse in the DMM then. If the fuse is blown you won't get power. Remove battery cover on the back of meter and you can usually see the fuse there but sometimes you must remove entire back cover go access the fuse. I would guess the fuse is blow for amperage reading if lights won't turn on.
 

CanadianONE

Well-Known Member
Is the fuse the white cylinder on the left?View attachment 3509445
Not the one on the left its the one in the middle at the bottom. You see that jumper wire looking thing under the white fuse? That's the current shunt, the current is measured acrossed this shunt. Remove that fuse and use the DMM to test continuity by putting the red prove back into the voltage port and touching one probe to each side and listen for an audible beep.
 

CanadianONE

Well-Known Member
Sorry forget using continuity doesn't look like your meter has it. Flip it to ohms setting and test resistance across the fuse and report back.
 

CanadianONE

Well-Known Member
After having a second look at the picture you posted. The fuse looks soldered in place as previous poster stated. The connection on the right to the board looks pretty dark in the picture. How does that connection look in person?
 

Al Yamoni

Well-Known Member
If you touch the probes of the DMM together what do you read? Sounds like the fuse is OK cause you should get an infinite reading OL or 1 on some meters when fuse is broken
I have it on the 20k Ohm setting and the DMM displays a 1. touch the leads together and the the DMM says 0.00
I touch the red lead anywhere on the fuse or the bar below the fuse the meter goes from dispaying a 1 to displaying a 0.00
 

Al Yamoni

Well-Known Member
Isn't the 10A fuse soldered? It looks like someone was already in there.
After having a second look at the picture you posted. The fuse looks soldered in place as previous poster stated. The connection on the right to the board looks pretty dark in the picture. How does that connection look in person?
It is soldered in place. I'm not sure what you mean by the connection on the right looking dark?
 

CanadianONE

Well-Known Member
You are touching red probe to one side of fuse and black probe to opposite side of fuse correct? What I mean by the connection. The wire that comes off the right end of the fuse and goes to the circuit board. It just looks dark like someone played around in there before to replace fuse or something.
 

Al Yamoni

Well-Known Member
You are touching red probe to one side of fuse and black probe to opposite side of fuse correct? What I mean by the connection. The wire that comes off the right end of the fuse and goes to the circuit board. It just looks dark like someone played around in there before to replace fuse or something.
it looks like a solid connection to me. the photo does look a lot worse than the actual board.

So when I touch the red probe to the right and the black to the left of the fuse, i get a read out of 1. If I switch the probes to the red on the left and the black on the right I get a read out of 0.00

All I have to do is touch the red lead to the right for a 1 and touch it to the left for a zero reading. The black lead can just sit there.

What's happening?
 

Getgrowingson

Well-Known Member
Sound weird. Put the meter on the ohm setting put the leads together. You should get ~0. Put one lead on one end of the fuse and the other lead on the other end. Should be close to 0 as well. When the leads are sitting in free air not touching anything or each other it should say OL or infinite. We're just trying to find out if your fuse will conduct electricity or not. If it's less then 5 ohms your fine.
 
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