Stephenj37826
Well-Known Member
Cheap one lol. 42b will give you less current though. Which exact driver did you buy?
Pictures of your DIY lights - Post your pics!!!
- Thread starter TimeToBurn
- Start date
bassman999
Well-Known Member
Mean Well HLG-240H-42B
bassman999
Well-Known Member
How do I pay for my leds from Kingbrite?
Paypal wont let me pay for it (for my protection) lol
Paypal wont let me pay for it (for my protection) lol
bassman999
Well-Known Member
Its paypal blocking it.
CC said go ahead lol.
Paypla had me clearing cookies and asked my question about who I know and addressees form last 20 yrs lol, and still nothing.
They said Jerry's invoice isnt the correct Paypal one, and he needs to resend it another way.
So nobody else has the issue I guess?
I even tried top pay directly with my credit line with paypal.
Stephenj37826
Well-Known Member
No clue PayPal works for me.
Rahz
Well-Known Member
The way I've been doing it the invoice is never involved with paypal. I just send money to the account associated with his email address. I mention the invoice number in the comment section.
bassman999
Well-Known Member
bassman999
Well-Known Member
Do you know ho much less current I will get with that driver and hese cobs?
CXA3070-0000-000N00AB30G
Mean Well HLG-240H-42B
Stephenj37826
Well-Known Member
I'll check tomorrow for you. Just divide total output current by number of LEDs
bassman999
Well-Known Member
Ok yeah
I thought the 42V output and the 38.5V cobs meant I would lose current.
I ordered 6 leds, but not sure if I am using them all on one driver yet.
I guess if I run all 6 they get 953mA each, so like 36.7W each?
Stephenj37826
Well-Known Member
Yes. If you look the -36 would've have you more current and the voltage would've been fine. Actually the closer to max voltage you get the better the driver performs efficiency wise.
bassman999
Well-Known Member
I got a good price on this one ($57 shipped) with best offer on eBay from US seller, and I bought a few 50 watt 36V ones from eBay as well to play with.
robincnn
Well-Known Member
Great build. Looks like LEDIL. What reflector is this
Looks like you are using thermal protector. If plastic ignore but if Metal types continue reading. Not sure if you are using them on AC side or DC side. Looks AC to me. If its AC you may want to check and be careful, one of the two wires on the metal type thermal protector is sometimes internally shorted to the outer metal shell. Not sure how much electrical isolation the thermal paste can provide.. In short.. you do not want AC live on your heatsink.
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Castaman
Well-Known Member
Yes man you are right. I've got AC hit several times, when i touched my heatsink, i thought it's because of ground somehow shorted and disconnect it. After that, the shortage disappeared, but now, after your explanation i understand the problem. The thermal protector fixed by thermal glue. Another problem is that i already sold it, hope that person wouldn't get shorted. I thought that protectors are developed to work in conditions like mine, so i connect them to AC. Also i've read that getting out of load can damage led driver, if thermal protector would be connected to DC. I'm so confused.
Yes it's Ledil reflectors.
robincnn
Well-Known Member
@Castaman
Did you use this reflector
F13838_ANGELINA
I am asking because I thought it was white but your reflector looks silver.
Your AC is leaking into heatsink even thou you have thermal glue. The metal case thermal protectoe have one wire internally short to body. Sometimes they come in a transparent plastic wrap cover to provide isolation. Don't remove that plastic cover. Stick it with the plastic cover on.
Atleast It would be good to warn the buyer not to touch the heatsink. If he hangs them with metal chain then AC on chain too. Lights need to be adjusted and this AC scary stuff. I hope you have the heatsink connected to ground.
You can consider recalling for repair if you want.
Yes thermal protector better on AC side to avoid driver running under no load. But thermal protector can be on DC side too since they trigger only exceptional.
With dimmable power supply, thermal switch on dimmer to reduce intensity if overheat
Did you use this reflector
F13838_ANGELINA
I am asking because I thought it was white but your reflector looks silver.
Your AC is leaking into heatsink even thou you have thermal glue. The metal case thermal protectoe have one wire internally short to body. Sometimes they come in a transparent plastic wrap cover to provide isolation. Don't remove that plastic cover. Stick it with the plastic cover on.
Atleast It would be good to warn the buyer not to touch the heatsink. If he hangs them with metal chain then AC on chain too. Lights need to be adjusted and this AC scary stuff. I hope you have the heatsink connected to ground.
You can consider recalling for repair if you want.
Yes thermal protector better on AC side to avoid driver running under no load. But thermal protector can be on DC side too since they trigger only exceptional.
With dimmable power supply, thermal switch on dimmer to reduce intensity if overheat
bassman999
Well-Known Member
What mounts are good for the CXA3070?
so is it safe\ok to put it on the DC side of Meanwell HLG series ?
robincnn
Well-Known Member
I have not compared DC vs AC shocks. I get scared with DC over 42 volts. I would put thermal protector on AC side if DC side over 42v
But with HLG B series I would get normally open type and put a resistance in series. Then put the combo parallel to potentiometer. That way reduce intensity to 20% if heatsink overheats. The dimmer wires on HLG have very low dc current and voltage
Also I have seen that many thermal protectors are rated like 120ac/ 24dc or 120ac/ 48dc. So maybe better to check DC rating and if it is to less then use on AC side if AC rating higher.
Also good to consider current. I have seen protectors with 5amp and 10amps rating.
I'll probably switch to B series meanwell and do it on the dimmer wires. sounds safer and easier overall.