Mau5Capades: builds & grow journal

[BobCajun]

Bob, you can always go down to your local hydro store and see if they have an old hood that you can have or buy cheap. I got this one and cut it down to fit my needs.

Yeah that looks functional, and the square shape is perfect for square spaces. What does the beam look like when you shine it on a flat surface?

BTW, I recently took some cuttings from a plant in flower and rooted them under CFL and later decided not to keep them so I smoked the little buds that were on them and they were more potent than the normal LED buds. I think LEDs may need some CFL supplementation for UV. The clones were growing under repeating 3/3 cycles at the time. Don't know if that had any significance.

 

[PurpleBuz]

Yeah that looks functional, and the square shape is perfect for square spaces. What does the beam look like when you shine it on a flat surface?

BTW, I recently took some cuttings from a plant in flower and rooted them under CFL and later decided not to keep them so I smoked the little buds that were on them and they were more potent than the normal LED buds. I think LEDs may need some CFL supplementation for UV. The clones were growing under repeating 3/3 cycles at the time. Don't know if that had any significance.

normal CFLs do not emit any UV

 

[BobCajun]

normal CFLs do not emit any UV

All fluorescents emit some UV at the ends of the tubes. I just have a hunch that the combination will be better than either alone. Could be wrong.

 

[dionysus4]

@Growmau5

im looking at pots- I just need a 100k pot right?

any specs to look for? single turn etc?

also what if i want to connect 3 185 drivers to 1 pot? 300K pot?

 

[Malocan]

also what if i want to connect 3 185 drivers to 1 pot? 300K pot?

 

[superbak3d]

normal CFLs do not emit any UV

Yes they do.

Why do you think cfl/floro grows produce the most frosty buds?

 

[iceman3000]

HI guys & gals
this will be my last post on this topic need to know what everyone thinks
working with a 4x10 space for lights. 3 side enclosure
24 cxb 3590 hlg driver 120 1400 (3) cobs or 185 (4) cobs 90 reflectors

(1) run 3 cob space 16 inches depth and 8 bars space 15 inches width that's 4x10

(2) run 3 cob space 16 inches depth and 8 bars space 12 inches width that's 4x8

(3) run 4 cob space 12 inches depth and 6 bars space 16 inches width that's 4x8

this is the last decision i have to make befor i order the sinks

thanks for any input on the matter
iceman3000

 

[BobCajun]

Yes they do.

Why do you think cfl/floro grows produce the most frosty buds?

The LED buds just seem to be lacking a certain zing. Could just be my imagination, I don't know.

BTW, regarding far red at the start of the dark period, you can buy timers which have a light sensor in them and you can set them to come on when dark for a certain time and then turn off. Like one I was looking at had from 1 to 9 hours selectable. There may be ones with shorter on times available. Anyway, seems like an easy way to have far red lights come on when the main lights go off and then stay on for a short time. One article I read had results with other types of plants of 2x as many bud sites as without, if I recall correctly. It was substantial anyway. They found that with short day lengths of only a few hours the far red treatments actually reduced bud sites but with longer days it reached an equal point with something like 5-8 hours light and then by 12 it had turned to increasing bud sites substantially. I suspect you would need small IR lights in various spots throughout the canopy, since they aren't going to penetrate very far if they're small ones.

 

[dionysus4]

@Malocan very helpful but what does the N mean? and where did u get this file?


ok i googled it got the file now i see the fine print

so for 3 drivers id need a 33k pot?

 

[OneHitDone]

The LED buds just seem to be lacking a certain zing. Could just be my imagination, I don't know.

BTW, regarding far red at the start of the dark period, you can buy timers which have a light sensor in them and you can set them to come on when dark for a certain time and then turn off. Like one I was looking at had from 1 to 9 hours selectable. There may be ones with shorter on times available. Anyway, seems like an easy way to have far red lights come on when the main lights go off and then stay on for a short time. One article I read had results with other types of plants of 2x as many bud sites as without, if I recall correctly. It was substantial anyway. They found that with short day lengths of only a few hours the far red treatments actually reduced bud sites but with longer days it reached an equal point with something like 5-8 hours light and then by 12 it had turned to increasing bud sites substantially. I suspect you would need small IR lights in various spots throughout the canopy, since they aren't going to penetrate very far if they're small ones.

I have lights that do the far red treatment after main lights out. I am not so sure on that vs the straight HID 12/12 plants I have.
It sounds all interesting "more bud sites" - but I end up just cleaning off more shit when I lollipop. I am not so sure more sites is better unless your just growing for resin.
I want all nugs to be bagable when its trim time

 

[BobCajun]

I have lights that do the far red treatment after main lights out. I am not so sure on that vs the straight HID 12/12 plants I have.
It sounds all interesting "more bud sites" - but I end up just cleaning off more shit when I lollipop. I am not so sure more sites is better unless your just growing for resin.
I want all nugs to be bagable when its trim time

So can you turn the IR function off and see how much difference it makes?

 

[Stephenj37826]

@Growmau5

im looking at pots- I just need a 100k pot right?

any specs to look for? single turn etc?

also what if i want to connect 3 185 drivers to 1 pot? 300K pot?

33kohm

Divide 100kohm by number of drivers.

 

[elninonino]

did you use the same led setup for veg?
did you dim it to 50% ?

 

[Airwalker16]

Also, it is more efficient and more watts using a 1400 for 4 rather than a 700 for 8?

 

[BOBBY_G]

1400 mA thru 4 cobs will always be less efficient than 700 mA thru 8 cobs

they will consume the same power, the 1400ma build will dissipate more heat and less light

 

[Airwalker16]

Oh I always thought that running as close to what it can handle is best? What is THEE best option of driver for me to build 3 of those lights,4 cxb3590s, using one driver on each

 

[Airwalker16]

And I was going to actively cool my 36" heatsink with 4 lenses cxb3590s. Is it really not needed on 5.886"? And do you have about 6" spacing in between lens holder edges?

 

[Way Of The Bud]

Could I just ask, does the dimmer actually reduce the amount of current the driver draws from the wall, ie, saving money, or does it simply reduce power to the COBs?

 

[Getgrowingson]

Could I just ask, does the dimmer actually reduce the amount of current the driver draws from the wall, ie, saving money, or does it simply reduce power to the COBs?

Power in general. Saves power.

 

[Way Of The Bud]

Power in general. Saves power.

That’s cool, thank you.

I remembered that the A drivers can be adjusted with a little screw under the rubber cap, so I just tested it and on a tree COB bar it went from 188w to 77w. The reason I wanted to know for certain is that I’m thinking of replacing the HPS light in my 8x4 space with a setup similar to Growmou5 700ma setup. I was thinking that it would be worth the extra cost, to me anyway, to buy 8 dimmable 1050mw so then I’d have the option to run them efficiently to super efficiently.