...All Things Vero...

[nevergoodenuf]

Only if you think 250 watts each is running them hard. The COBs I am using have a max power of over 600 watts (Luna 300). Just run them the same as you would the others.

 

[Kevin the Great]

Thanks for the info. I think ill go with the smaller profile and use active cooling for safety reasons. I ordered 3 v18s to play with first due to being stuck at work for the next two weeks strait. I accidentally ordered the 90 cri instead of the 80 cri. beSides l/w output is there a big disadvantage to the 90 cri? I'll be using them for a veg light. Thanks

It could be argued that passive cooling is in fact safer. Less moving parts. What if your fan gets a piece of something in it and the blades get jammed? What if a wire comes loose or your fan driver takes a shit? All of a sudden your active cooling became passive.

 

[healingpath]

Hey guys, can vero 29s be wired through pico ez mate? is it safe to do it? Btw I saw that lot of you are running v18, is it better more economical option when it comes to drivers ? can somebody suggest me a cheap quality driver for the v29 v2? and please how much I will need them If I would want to run the efficiently with about to 400w with dimming? the type of drivers would help too. I would appreciate all the advices. Have a great day

 

[Danielson999]

Hey guys, can vero 29s be wired through pico ez mate? is it safe to do it? Btw I saw that lot of you are running v18, is it better more economical option when it comes to drivers ? can somebody suggest me a cheap quality driver for the v29 v2? and please how much I will need them If I would want to run the efficiently with about to 400w with dimming? the type of drivers would help too. I would appreciate all the advices. Have a great day

They can be wired through pico's but only up to the stated 130v maximum. I have 8 Vero 29's and will be running 4 each off one HLG-240H-C1400B. This will give them each just over 50w at full strength but these drivers allow dimming. They aren't as efficient at lower amperage compared to the CXB's but they are also less than half the price which makes a huge difference to start up costs.

 

[bobbuck]

It could be argued that passive cooling is in fact safer. Less moving parts. What if your fan gets a piece of something in it and the blades get jammed? What if a wire comes loose or your fan driver takes a shit? All of a sudden your active cooling became passive.

I definitely see your point. That was my original intent! Maybe I'll plan for passive and throw a fan on each heatsink. My 4" can fan exhausts from above where the lights will be mounted and runs 24/7 for odor control

 

[Kevin the Great]

I definitely see your point. That was my original intent! Maybe I'll plan for passive and throw a fan on each heatsink. My 4" can fan exhausts from above where the lights will be mounted and runs 24/7 for odor control

I try to build my lights with the same mindset. Slightly too small for an ideal passive setup but ran active and if the fan poops out, I should still be OK. I've been getting random heatsinks from eBay and putting stuff together from those. You can save some coin if you're willing to put in the work. I'll snap a pic of a light that I've dubbed "the aluminum monster". One actively cooled sink, 2 semi active and 2 passive all in 1 fixture.

 

[bobbuck]

I try to build my lights with the same mindset. Slightly too small for an ideal passive setup but ran active and if the fan poops out, I should still be OK. I've been getting random heatsinks from eBay and putting stuff together from those. You can save some coin if you're willing to put in the work. I'll snap a pic of a light that I've dubbed "the aluminum monster". One actively cooled sink, 2 semi active and 2 passive all in 1 fixture.

id like to see your construction. My first veg light wilk be built on an old led housing that already has fans incorporated into it. The flowering lights will be 3 units so the spread can be adjusted. Kinda wish I was back in N.Y. to rummage through my grandpas electronic museum (house)! I know there's lots of heatsink materials abd power supplies

 

[Kevin the Great]

Tough to take good pictures without taking the light out of the cabinet. It's actually in an old refrigerator. 2 cxb3590 and a Vero 29 on an hlg 120 1400a. Also the 8 Vero 18 on cheap China drivers run at 300 milliamps on the passive heatsinks on the outside. I have the Vero 29 mounted in the center of a 12-inch actively cooled heat sink. The air that blows through that heat sink dumps right into some big bonded fin heat sinks that each have a cxb3590 on it. The bonded fin heat sinks are fully capable of running far more than they have right now passively.

 

[FranJan]

Hold off on those Vero V2 purchases folks looks like V3 is coming in June. Bout Time!

http://www.bridgelux.com/resources/bridgelux-announces-market-leading-efficacy-cob-offering-155-lumens-watt-performance

"LIVERMORE, California, March 13, 2016 — Bridgelux, a leading developer and manufacturer of LED lighting technologies, will debut several new products at this year’s Light + Building in Germany, including its seventh generation of Vero and V Series products now featuring nominal efficacy ranging from 155 to 180 lumens per watt warm white efficacy; H Series, the Company’s first ultra-high lumen density chip-on-board product line, and Xenio™ Point, the industry’s most versatile smart LED module.....
Next generation Vero and V Series arrays will ship in June. For more information, come and see us in hall 6.2, booth C20 at Light+Building 2016!"


Anyone looking at Xenio for their Veros? Looks pretty interesting.

http://www.xeniocorp.com/sites/default/files/files/xenio_ds_xenio_pt18r25.pdf
http://www.bridgelux.com/products/xenio-point
​

Xenio Point is a new LED module platform that integrates local intelligence and communications capabilities with LED light sources to deliver superior light quality, high efficacy, and value.

•Current regulation is managed internally, allowing the use of constant 48Vdc voltage power supplies
•The industry’s best dimming performance: Both flicker and stroboscopic effects are eliminated under all conditions. Internal device-side dimming provides greatly enhanced dimming precision, down to 0.1% of full brightness.
•Integrated network interfaces eliminate the cost and space required for network adapters: 0-10V Dimming Control,
DMX512/RDM and Bluetooth Smart interfaces are supported.
•Automatic internal temperature monitoring and a thermal protection algorithm protects from damage caused by
operational over-temperature
•Historical data is logged and is available for retrieval through its network interfaces
•Market-leading efficacy at all brightness levels
•Compatible with Bridgelux Vero Series® optics
•Zhaga Book 3 compliant mounting holes
​

 

[The Dawg]

Oh Hell Ya Babys Watch Out

 

[The Dawg]

Damn Brother Fran These New V3's Are Sexier Than Ming Ho At The Mars BBQ Picnic

 

[indianajones]

crazy, they are going to constant voltage drivers. wonder if these
will be simpler to wire in parallel. can't wait to see expanded data
sheets as they become available.

 

[bobbuck]

Tough to take good pictures without taking the light out of the cabinet. It's actually in an old refrigerator. 2 cxb3590 and a Vero 29 on an hlg 120 1400a. Also the 8 Vero 18 on cheap China drivers run at 300 milliamps on the passive heatsinks on the outside. I have the Vero 29 mounted in the center of a 12-inch actively cooled heat sink. The air that blows through that heat sink dumps right into some big bonded fin heat sinks that each have a cxb3590 on it. The bonded fin heat sinks are fully capable of running far more than they have right now passively.

that's a serious amount of aluminum! Thanks for the pics. What's the profile of the large bonded heatsinks?

 

[Kevin the Great]

that's a serious amount of aluminum! Thanks for the pics. What's the profile of the large bonded heatsinks?

They're from eBay. 26 5 1/4 tall fins 6 inches long. If you run the numbers, they're each capable of handling just under 100 watts of heat passively.

 

[healingpath]

Hey guys, I would be very much thankful for advice about which driver to choose with 10 veros v29 v2 to run them efficiently. Would it be to hard to link them in parallel or should I buy one driver per led( that would be expensive as hell) Im looking for a dimmable option driver/s for use in EU.
Btw Im I the only one who thinks there would be huge price on the new v3s?

 

[Kevin the Great]

Hey guys, I would be very much thankful for advice about which driver to choose with 10 veros v29 v2 to run them efficiently. Would it be to hard to link them in parallel or should I buy one driver per led( that would be expensive as hell) Im looking for a dimmable option driver/s for use in EU.
Btw Im I the only one who thinks there would be huge price on the new v3s?

All depends how hard you want to push them. A pair of Meanwell HLG 185 1050s would work so would a single HLG 240 700. Dimmable with a built in potentiometer would end with an A in the part number. External dimmer ends with a B. Non dimming ends with a C and timer dimming ends with a D. Type A only dims to 50%.
Hope this helps.

 

[healingpath]

Thx Kevin it helped a lot, I want to drive them 10 vero 29s efficiently as possible, so they would put out good amount of photons, I was considering about 350w-450-500w during flowering( for the first run 350w would be enough, I want to do each dimmed option on each run to test how its performance on the yield per g) , but at the start just about 200-250 for veg, I want to use pair or two for mothers probably one for clones and others for flowering. Hope this info would help, I saw that optic use some npf drivers? are their better?
Is it hard to connect the leds in paralel ? can it be done through the pico ez mate? I know electrictian which is not a pro but he done some soldering on electronics, I thought maybe he would help me if soldering is needed. But preferably I would do it on my own if soldering is not needed. With the type B driver I would need a potenciometer right? Which driver/s do you recommend the most for this purpose?
I would appreciate your opinion and advice.

 

[Kevin the Great]

Thx Kevin it helped a lot, I want to drive them 10 vero 29s efficiently as possible, so they would put out good amount of photons, I was considering about 350w-450-500w during flowering( for the first run 350w would be enough, I want to do each dimmed option on each run to test how its performance on the yield per g) , but at the start just about 200-250 for veg, I want to use pair or two for mothers probably one for clones and others for flowering. Hope this info would help, I saw that optic use some npf drivers? are their better?
Is it hard to connect the leds in paralel ? can it be done through the pico ez mate? I know electrictian which is not a pro but he done some soldering on electronics, I thought maybe he would help me if soldering is needed. But preferably I would do it on my own if soldering is not needed. With the type B driver I would need a potenciometer right? Which driver/s do you recommend the most for this purpose?
I would appreciate your opinion and advice.

The Pico EZmate can be used for wiring in parallel or series. No soldering required. All the EZmate does is give you a wire instead of a solder pad.
If you have so many different applications for these LEDs, you should really have separate drivers for each application. You'd obviously have separate timers, requiring separate drivers.
I picked up some 350ma 50-120vdc drivers from aliexpress.com for 9 bucks each. Not dimmable, but for 9 bucks it will drive 2 or 3 vero 29s or 2,3 or 4 vero 18s at 350ma. Great for veg or sidelighting.

Maybe I'm confused about what you want to do with your 10 LEDs.

 

[healingpath]

Thats great I will buy them with the 29s, I got what you mean, 2-4 of them I want for mothers in veg and remaining 6-8 for the flowering site. I decided to keep my clones under t8s and few cfls I got left with no use. Thats great price for a driver are they runing with good efficacy? no huge losses?

 

[nevergoodenuf]

If you use the Picos, buy a few extra. I broke a couple the first time I used them.