. The COBs I am using have a max power of over 600 watts (Luna 300). Just run them the same as you would the others.
It could be argued that passive cooling is in fact safer. Less moving parts. What if your fan gets a piece of something in it and the blades get jammed? What if a wire comes loose or your fan driver takes a shit? All of a sudden your active cooling became passive.
They can be wired through pico's but only up to the stated 130v maximum. I have 8 Vero 29's and will be running 4 each off one HLG-240H-C1400B. This will give them each just over 50w at full strength but these drivers allow dimming. They aren't as efficient at lower amperage compared to the CXB's but they are also less than half the price which makes a huge difference to start up costs.
I definitely see your point. That was my original intent! Maybe I'll plan for passive and throw a fan on each heatsink. My 4" can fan exhausts from above where the lights will be mounted and runs 24/7 for odor control
I try to build my lights with the same mindset. Slightly too small for an ideal passive setup but ran active and if the fan poops out, I should still be OK. I've been getting random heatsinks from eBay and putting stuff together from those. You can save some coin if you're willing to put in the work. I'll snap a pic of a light that I've dubbed "the aluminum monster". One actively cooled sink, 2 semi active and 2 passive all in 1 fixture.
id like to see your construction. My first veg light wilk be built on an old led housing that already has fans incorporated into it. The flowering lights will be 3 units so the spread can be adjusted. Kinda wish I was back in N.Y. to rummage through my grandpas electronic museum (house)! I know there's lots of heatsink materials abd power supplies
that's a serious amount of aluminum! Thanks for the pics. What's the profile of the large bonded heatsinks?
They're from eBay. 26 5 1/4 tall fins 6 inches long. If you run the numbers, they're each capable of handling just under 100 watts of heat passively.
All depends how hard you want to push them. A pair of Meanwell HLG 185 1050s would work so would a single HLG 240 700. Dimmable with a built in potentiometer would end with an A in the part number. External dimmer ends with a B. Non dimming ends with a C and timer dimming ends with a D. Type A only dims to 50%.
The Pico EZmate can be used for wiring in parallel or series. No soldering required. All the EZmate does is give you a wire instead of a solder pad.
