Corso312
Well-Known Member
Without seeing pics I'm guessing over watering..twice a day spray in a dome seems excessive..I hit my domes maybe once every other day sometimes once every 3 days.
Why are these clones yellowing and shriveling?
- Thread starter KingOFthe710
- Start date
Without seeing pics I'm guessing over watering..twice a day spray in a dome seems excessive..I hit my domes maybe once every other day sometimes once every 3 days.
KingOFthe710
Member
I posted pics from imgur but I threw an out I'll make a new journal this weekend when I cut down my mothers. Anybody got any advice besides using flowering nutes a few days prior to cutting?
KingOFthe710
Member
Just put it in cloning gel then into permits balls? Not gonna keep the stem very firm or that air tight is it? Have seen many people recommending it though but most just put it under their rapid rooters
BobCajun
Well-Known Member
Yeah I guess with large cuttings they do tend to fall over. I've used foam root cubes before with good success. They hold cuttings firmly.
KingOFthe710
Member
Do you clone?
Slab
Well-Known Member
Any chance of contamination of your cutting implement ?
Barring that , you cooked them.
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KingOFthe710
Member
How? They were only under a 23 watt cfl from 2 feet above them and 18/6. Overall closet temp was 68 box was 81 with heating pad. Anyone know why the plugs stayed so wet? All I did was leave soaking for 15 minutes I shook them, gave couple light squeezes till no drips then put clones in. Clones I cut right but I didn't expose nodes and I'm not sure if I had any nodes in the plugs I just cut stem. I would assume at least one of the 2q had to be in there. But I only have 6 or 8 sprays total across plants and some twice a day and never added water and every day the plugs seemed more wet then the last. I opened domes after day 3 slowly like link they stickied stays but they all turned too mush I don't understand it. Trying to,text it right gotta cut down my last 6 mothers this week to go outside can't afford to fuck many more up
KingOFthe710
Member
Have been considering them especially the homemade ones for like 20 bucks but why don't you have to mist if the plant still can't absorb water besides through the leaves?
I understand the stems are being splashed,but everything else I read says the utting can't absorb water and transfer it up the leaves have to absorb it and transfer it down and roots will form after the crystals
Slab
Well-Known Member
"When I put under t5s the first day after cutting the box got too hot and dry and they wilted,"
Bud Assasin
Well-Known Member
^^^This^^^ The clones I have taken that do this are rooting like champs
I think it is because the clone has no roots so it shifts from veg to work on shooting roots, when it does this it is on the search for food, if you clone in a nutrient rich environment sometimes they can take longer to root because they are getting full nutrients and they kind of get lazy.
The brown shrivelling leaves are from your cuttings cannibalizing themselves in an effort to shoot roots. It's perfectly normal but has likely more to do with the nutritional health of the mother than the clone itself.
If you take a clone from a real healthy mother who is packed with nutrition the clones tend to do this less. no worries though you can trim off the dead leaves when yo transplant.
KingOFthe710
Member
Had same problem so I kept under 23 watt cfl rest of time and they stayed vertical and hard just mushy bottoms with no roots.
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KingOFthe710
Member
Not sure how you figure. Can't get half as many in same spot and all the ones shooting off branches would be pretty hard to prop up there to stay wrapped. I'd rather just clone as I'm gonna be taking 30 to 50 a mother so 180 to 300 clones. Air layering doesn't sound very efficient
bird mcbride
Well-Known Member
Get the Stimrrot #2 yellow powder. It'll relieve you of a $5 bill but after extensive testing it turns out to be the best over the counter. I found this hard to believe but Lowes gardening section features Stimroot #2.
I put a layer of gravel down in the bin to decrease the chance of rot. I have switched to the soft Rock Wool. I have overcome the stability problem by banking the soft Rock Wool with Rock(hydroton etc) I soak the Rock Wool as usual(spent rez water) and once in position and the snips are in the Rock Wool I use a pump up sprayer to drench each Rock Wool cube with a fine spray mist. When I'm done spraying cubes I mist the snips and the bin before closing the door. Their is a 2" drain/air hole in the lower corner of the bin which will accommodate 25-30 snips for proper ventilation during the rooting period.
I only snip my snips off the mom with a pair of surgical scissors, which I have found works just as good as a razor and safer. I don't trim the leaves on the snip or scrape it in any way. It gets snipped and put in the Rock Wool as is. If a fan leaf stem is in the way it goes in the ready made hole in the Rock Wool with the snips stem.
After 5-7 days you can be sure there are roots even if you can't see them. This is when it's time to start treating them like plant(s) and give them a tad bit more ventilation. I just crack the door on the bin a bit after giving them a good spray with clean used rez water water.
A dual 32-34 watt four foot florescent fixture using cool white tubes is best for a small bin as explained. I use a clear garbage bag to construct the bin, shelf, some wire, thumb tacks etc. When it's time to clean the bin it's a matter of swapping it out with another bag
Since I have hard winters I keep the bin(s) up high and the tubes fastened to the ceiling in the case of heating failures. This will be the last place to freeze.
The bin I once used for doing 150 was a child's lawn wading pool with a sheet of clear plastic over it, accompanied by 5 dual 4' fixtures. Five, 2" holes in the lower corner of the pool for drainage. Same procedure.
KingOFthe710
Member
I used Schultz rooting powder from Lowe's along with foot tech gel. The Shultz was 3 percent indole butric acid which they said was only real ingredient that stimulates roots. What percentage of cuttings do you get to survive. Been thinking about going rockwool with perlite bottom instead of the rapid rooters. No ones been able to explain how or why they got so wet I really dont understand
Slab
Well-Known Member
you asked me how you cooked them, I quoted what you wrote.
KingOFthe710
Member
Oh I didn't even realize the quotes but I said right after that that after humidity went back uo,under less intense light they all stood back up. That was day 1 these stayed nice hard and green for 6 days then started to get yellow so I thought it was plant cannibalizing itself so let them do that for 3 days and when I took some out to check for roots the bottom of the stems were just soft mush and yellow so I checked all of em and they were all like that
Slab
Well-Known Member
Only Time I 've had failures was when I didn't sterilize my blade after each cut and the one time I used peat pods.
I use rock wool slabs and cut my cubes according to the size of the cutting I am taking.
Now that I have my enviro completely dialed in I can take some pretty large cuttings.
At a glance the pods you are using look small for a cutting that large. Not an expert on that medium just at glance that the thought that came to mind.
Water Every other day on avg the first few days , then once a day if they feel light .
I put a couple of folded towels over my cloning mat to make sure it doesn't cook them that way also.
As it was said over watering is a common culprit.
I use rock wool slabs and cut my cubes according to the size of the cutting I am taking.
Now that I have my enviro completely dialed in I can take some pretty large cuttings.
At a glance the pods you are using look small for a cutting that large. Not an expert on that medium just at glance that the thought that came to mind.
Water Every other day on avg the first few days , then once a day if they feel light .
I put a couple of folded towels over my cloning mat to make sure it doesn't cook them that way also.
As it was said over watering is a common culprit.