I generally find blowing cools better than sucking. Try Standing in front of a fan, and then in back of it. The compression means denser air, which carries heat away.
DIY Passive cooling with PIN Heatsinks SST120 and SST140
- Thread starter robincnn
- Start date
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
That's open air; this situation is in a duct. The rules are different, but suit yourself.
Better yet; try it both ways and tell us which runs cooler! You know what I'm betting on,lol
thetr33man
Well-Known Member
I use the same hex head or allen wrench style also, I like them, found 6mm sometimes strip on me tho so I prefer the 8mm style for general attachments.
JorgeGonzales
Well-Known Member
Wow I regularly snap bolts like a moron and have never ever stripped an allen screw. It's all my bike and synths are held together by, plus bits and bobs on my car.
Does the wrench round over? I need an explanation!
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Welp, after WAY more work than I thought I'd be putting into this thing, it is finally, aöt last, complete. The 4 pin sinks are fuckin awesome and I ended up with almost a ghetto @Netherfly type rig where I can angle the sinks however I want.
Thanks again @robincnn for this stuff. It really was a great gift and an even greater addition to the op!
The framing I'll admit is a little finicky and weak so that may get updated. That or move the eyelets in closer to the outside edges of the middle sinks to balance the weight a bit more evenly. You can see it drooping in the center.
Also, I forgot to use @ 10K resistor. OhNOES! But, surprisingly, it doesnt dim them to off at full dim. They're still on and decently bright. So I guess it's not needed. I'll never dim that low anyways but just thought I'd share.
Thanks again @robincnn for this stuff. It really was a great gift and an even greater addition to the op!
The framing I'll admit is a little finicky and weak so that may get updated. That or move the eyelets in closer to the outside edges of the middle sinks to balance the weight a bit more evenly. You can see it drooping in the center.
Also, I forgot to use @ 10K resistor. OhNOES! But, surprisingly, it doesnt dim them to off at full dim. They're still on and decently bright. So I guess it's not needed. I'll never dim that low anyways but just thought I'd share.
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Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Here's what I mean by being able to angle them. Modularity. 
I also moved the whole light support hanger eyelets a good 10" over so it's even over the buckets now.
I also moved the whole light support hanger eyelets a good 10" over so it's even over the buckets now.
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Sorry,if I used someone else,s junction box the old lady would kill me.
Lopez7808
Active Member
Dude I could use five if those heat sinks if your still giving them awy
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Bro they were gone within a few hours of this thread being created.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Fixed the eyelet positions. This is much much better and more sturdy. I also put my clone dome and a small fluoro underneath the table and it just fits so perfectly.
Put the potentiometer on the other side now and gave the cords for the driver some slack. Looks very nice and neat now. P.s. the last pic is the cobs fully dimmed down.
Put the potentiometer on the other side now and gave the cords for the driver some slack. Looks very nice and neat now. P.s. the last pic is the cobs fully dimmed down.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
robincnn
Well-Known Member
@Airwalker16 sorry was on a riu break.
Nice to see those square heatsinks in action. Nicely done
check the heatsinks temperature If you have IR temperature Thermometer.
Once they are warm the hot air rises up from pins and that rope on top of heatsink is going to slow the convection air flow. frame grounded ?
How are those side screws holding the heatsink to frame ?
I will build something similar.
Nice to see those square heatsinks in action. Nicely done
check the heatsinks temperature If you have IR temperature Thermometer.
Once they are warm the hot air rises up from pins and that rope on top of heatsink is going to slow the convection air flow. frame grounded ?
How are those side screws holding the heatsink to frame ?
I will build something similar.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
I didn't ground it to the heatsink/frame. It was weird. With the Junction box being the way it is I wasn't sure what to do. Would i just run a Wire from the frame grounded, down with the other + & - for the cobs and connect it to the green wire somewhere inside the Junction box? I figured the driver is grounded through the plug so it might not be that important. And the frame is holding the heatsinks by those black screws you sent. I drilled through the bases of the heatsibks, then used those screws to hold them in place on the frame on one point@Airwalker16 sorry was on a riu break.
Nice to see those square heatsinks in action. Nicely done
check the heatsinks temperature If you have IR temperature Thermometer.
Once they are warm the hot air rises up from pins and that rope on top of heatsink is going to slow the convection air flow. frame grounded ?
How are those side screws holding the heatsink to frame ?
I will build something similar.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
This should help.
robincnn
Well-Known Member
Right. Need to ground frame too.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
So basically a wire ran from the frame down with the 2 cob power wires, into the Junction box, and soldered onto the green wire from the power cord?
robincnn
Well-Known Member
CoB_nUt
Well-Known Member
Dammmit I didn't ground my frame! Don't have a junction box yet, but just so I understood what airwalker is saying. Just run some of the same solid core wire used to run the cobs a sepearte wire of course, tied into the ground wire(wagos) of the drivers ground? Also, had a question about the pot and resistor. Ok 2 questions.
1. Is it ok that i used wagos to connect the pot and resistor to the dim leads of the driver? It works just not sure how safe it is.I used electrical tape to seal/cover the cconnectors. haven't soldered anything to date. Did buy a soldering iron and flux rods tho.
Also, watching growmau5's videos, I see he applies somehing to the wire before he uses the flux rod and soldering iron. What is the stuff?
2.Is an on off switch an option? I've never seen any mention on one on diy builds. Not totally necessary when hooked to a timer. But, yea yanno....
Any ideas on how he got that mirror polish on his angle aluminum?
@Airwalker16, are your drivers remotely mounted with that J-box outside your grow space?
1. Is it ok that i used wagos to connect the pot and resistor to the dim leads of the driver? It works just not sure how safe it is.I used electrical tape to seal/cover the cconnectors. haven't soldered anything to date. Did buy a soldering iron and flux rods tho.
Also, watching growmau5's videos, I see he applies somehing to the wire before he uses the flux rod and soldering iron. What is the stuff?
2.Is an on off switch an option? I've never seen any mention on one on diy builds. Not totally necessary when hooked to a timer. But, yea yanno....
Any ideas on how he got that mirror polish on his angle aluminum?
@Airwalker16, are your drivers remotely mounted with that J-box outside your grow space?