cal mag or something of
- Thread starter Diskokobaja
- Start date
im4satori
Well-Known Member
I understand what your saying
first lets change the word from def to imbalance
some plants are more sensitive to imbalance than others
you can have 1 plant grow relatively well using imperfectly balanced fertilizers where another might not do so well
but if the fertilizer was properly balanced theyd both grow better!
and...im not saying with 100% certainty that your current issue is from your fertilizer... but if we can balance your fertilizer feeds and make sure your not over feeding then we can rule out many potential issues and limit the potential diagnosis to something un related to fertilizer imbalance
often times diagnosis is done by ruling out what you believe its not or thru process of elimination
balancing your fertilizer will eliminate future potential issues
every element affects another
too much potassium will cause calcium def and or magnesium def just as too much calcium can cause magnesium def and potassium def
or better described as nutrient lockout
too much phosphorus can lock out iron and zinc
just as too much iron can lock out phosphorus
and when you look at the derived from minerals youll notice theyre always in pairs
for example;
calcium nitrate
magnesium sulfate
potassium sulfate
potassium nitrate
so the elements are not nitrogen alone.. each element has a co-element if you will
so there a ying and yang type balance in your fertilizer
the closer you get it to balanced the less potential you have of issues
now, because your in a medium that has some buffering it gives you a greater degree or margin of error because the medium can buffer elements for the plant to chose as needed from the medium
another medium such as rockwool has little to no buffer ability and a lesser margin of error and aero even less again
so my advise it to start by mixing your nutes the way I suggested
it may not answer your question about that 1 specific plant issue but it will help you moving forward
first lets change the word from def to imbalance
some plants are more sensitive to imbalance than others
you can have 1 plant grow relatively well using imperfectly balanced fertilizers where another might not do so well
but if the fertilizer was properly balanced theyd both grow better!
and...im not saying with 100% certainty that your current issue is from your fertilizer... but if we can balance your fertilizer feeds and make sure your not over feeding then we can rule out many potential issues and limit the potential diagnosis to something un related to fertilizer imbalance
often times diagnosis is done by ruling out what you believe its not or thru process of elimination
balancing your fertilizer will eliminate future potential issues
every element affects another
too much potassium will cause calcium def and or magnesium def just as too much calcium can cause magnesium def and potassium def
or better described as nutrient lockout
too much phosphorus can lock out iron and zinc
just as too much iron can lock out phosphorus
and when you look at the derived from minerals youll notice theyre always in pairs
for example;
calcium nitrate
magnesium sulfate
potassium sulfate
potassium nitrate
so the elements are not nitrogen alone.. each element has a co-element if you will
so there a ying and yang type balance in your fertilizer
the closer you get it to balanced the less potential you have of issues
now, because your in a medium that has some buffering it gives you a greater degree or margin of error because the medium can buffer elements for the plant to chose as needed from the medium
another medium such as rockwool has little to no buffer ability and a lesser margin of error and aero even less again
so my advise it to start by mixing your nutes the way I suggested
it may not answer your question about that 1 specific plant issue but it will help you moving forward
im4satori
Well-Known Member
theres nothing wrong with using plain silica
and your plants can actually handle very large amounts
its the ph that's can be an issue because add rhino or whatever raises the ph of the solution
if you spray it you don't have to worry about the ph
as a matter of fact spraying it works better cuz it works against powdery mildew and helps slow down bugs
Diskokobaja
Well-Known Member
Diskokobaja
Well-Known Member
No i had two plants outdoor in my life..bubblegum auto in whole in soil ,too easy to grow without any issue,and I was total newbie than, And I had auto blue cheese on balcony half of his life.. No issues,until i put her in tent... 
but then I didnt knew about cal mag def under led,so that was issue..
but then I didnt knew about cal mag def under led,so that was issue..
im4satori
Well-Known Member
ive never grown under LED
so I cant say with certainty from personal experience that im correct
but I will say im at minimum highly skeptical that LED would require any more or less calcium than any other type of lighting provided the mix is got a balanced cation
but again I wont say much more about it because ive not got LED lightig
so I cant say with certainty from personal experience that im correct
but I will say im at minimum highly skeptical that LED would require any more or less calcium than any other type of lighting provided the mix is got a balanced cation
but again I wont say much more about it because ive not got LED lightig
Diskokobaja
Well-Known Member
This is my fifth led grow..I have just 2 hps grows under my belts.. But I can say althou Im using cobs now, I always had cal mag def if I didnt add it to feed..And As far As I read bunch of people growing autos did have same problem.too..
im4satori
Well-Known Member
or maybe a bunch of people where running un balance cation between potassium calcium and magnesium and it didn't show until they switched lights
maybe the difference in light pushed them outside the margin of error within the cation
either way the end result is the same they seen the def/imbalance and adjusted
TacoMac
Well-Known Member
Giving a plant black strap molasses?
You've been like the other 90% of the people on this forum: reading complete bullshit. You'd might as well thrown tar on the fucking things. You choked them to death.
Jesus Christ, folks...soil grows ARE NOT HARD AT ALL. Less is more. Keep it simple. You'd be better off giving them NOTHING but water than throwing that shit on them.
You've been like the other 90% of the people on this forum: reading complete bullshit. You'd might as well thrown tar on the fucking things. You choked them to death.
Jesus Christ, folks...soil grows ARE NOT HARD AT ALL. Less is more. Keep it simple. You'd be better off giving them NOTHING but water than throwing that shit on them.
Buba Blend
Well-Known Member
A lot of conversations going on about led and calcium. I don't use them. Google led calcium and it offers to fill in the word deficiency.
A thread here is active but really hostile so I'd read it before jumping in if you want but I'd probably wait for a less hostile environment. We all strive for a pleasant environment!
Maybe ask whitebb2727 sometime in a different thread. He's pretty smart.
https://www.rollitup.org/t/my-final-review-of-meizhi-1200-led.929296/page-4#post-13649500
im4satori
Well-Known Member
just one more things about your nutes
again its hard to lower the N in late bloom because the micros are combined in the part A with all the calcium..and since the % amounts for the micors are not listed I cant safely say how low you can run the part A
so the only other way to get the N down in late bloom is to drop the use of the calmag (2% N) during the last 2 weeks of bloom before harvest
as for the silica/rhino.. 5mls appears to be a small amount and likely has a small effect on your ph so if you want to use it in your mix go ahead..either way would be fine with or without your still with in the margin off error
youll just have to see on your end if the minor ph rise is something easy to manage
again its hard to lower the N in late bloom because the micros are combined in the part A with all the calcium..and since the % amounts for the micors are not listed I cant safely say how low you can run the part A
so the only other way to get the N down in late bloom is to drop the use of the calmag (2% N) during the last 2 weeks of bloom before harvest
as for the silica/rhino.. 5mls appears to be a small amount and likely has a small effect on your ph so if you want to use it in your mix go ahead..either way would be fine with or without your still with in the margin off error
youll just have to see on your end if the minor ph rise is something easy to manage
polishpollack
Well-Known Member
It looks like this thread is a classic care of a grower who uses bottles to feed, doesn't really know what to do and is mystified by leaf discoloration, and can't get the help they want. Diskokobaha, people here don't really know what your problem is so they can't help you. What I see is, your soil has a pH of 6 so adding more fert will lower that pH. You're adding a lot of extra stuff that probably isn't necessary. Your temperature is pretty high, probably way too high. You want an indoor grow to be more like 75 degrees F if possible. Since you're soil has fert in it already, you don't really know when you need to add more. You're just guessing that when you put the plant into flower, it's time to add ferts. This might not be the case. Being told to flush with part strength nutes is silly because it doesn't help. The best thing to do is avoid over ferting from the beginning, especially if you use soil that has nutrients already. I think you've given too much stuff and are poisoning the plant and the high heat is making things worse. I don't know what my critics will say about this but most people that come here looking for help are in the same situation you're in: they are using bottled nutrients and giving way too much when using soil that has fertilizer.
im4satori
Well-Known Member
ya
seems like that threads got everyone fired up lol
id like to ask the madbutcher what his nutes are and how hes mixing them to see if hes light on something or if it is indeed the lights but too much bull going on there lol
even in this thread theres a lot of really nasty type responses
I wanna talk about pot not step on people... unless you support trump then I want to step on you lol
Diskokobaja
Well-Known Member
Escuse moua If I belive that readet/readed?? articles are true.. So this isnt something that joe bloe told me this is fact that I read on multiple articles...
Somebodfy talking about negative energy.. WooW now you can taste my feeling.... I never consider my self good grower, but you people let me feel like completly moron, idiot and imbecil..If I havent got support from side, After first page I would cutr all my girls throw them away and sell my gear .. FO reaL!
@polishpollack "t looks like this thread is a classic care of a grower who uses bottles to feed, doesn't really know what to do and is mystified by leaf discoloration, "
you are partialy right here, i never had any string for chemistry and frenkly half of things that @im4satori is saying about my nutes N and other stuff is really chinese to me plus english is not my native laungage.. by now I learned what discolor means and when leafs are bright green they neeed food,, my soil has ferts inside for 4 weeks,and trust me when (IN THE BEGINIG ) I was adding nutes too soon, I got nute burn, so Its strange And in this 2 years of interesting in growing this is first time people telling that plant is over fed and dont showing signs of nute burm. I guess all of you make your own super soil and adding just water.. I onkly found that molasses cause problem in hidroponics systems.. not singoe article about soil..
And yes I was support trumnop..Until he tomahawked syria...
LONG LIVE ASSAD AND PUTIN!!
sLAVIC pOWER!
im4satori
Well-Known Member
there are so many peeps doing different things and so many variables
you can
water , water , water heavy feed, water, water, water heavy feed
or
water, feed, water ,feed water , feed
some guys do the heavy feeds and then spend a week leaching out the heavy salts with all the water feeds
I prefer a more mild feed (as in lower EC/PPM) and maybe more frequent if required.. this prevents salt build ups and the need for heavy leaching and excessive watering , it also helps keep the biology going
if you want to push the envelope with the "more is more" theory do it after you've mastered the "less is more" theory
you can
water , water , water heavy feed, water, water, water heavy feed
or
water, feed, water ,feed water , feed
some guys do the heavy feeds and then spend a week leaching out the heavy salts with all the water feeds
I prefer a more mild feed (as in lower EC/PPM) and maybe more frequent if required.. this prevents salt build ups and the need for heavy leaching and excessive watering , it also helps keep the biology going
if you want to push the envelope with the "more is more" theory do it after you've mastered the "less is more" theory
im4satori
Well-Known Member
http://www.mandalaseeds.com/Guides/Soil-Guide
check out the info in there grow guide
flip the pages thru the grow guide, theres some good info in there and its not hard to absorb
check out the info in there grow guide
flip the pages thru the grow guide, theres some good info in there and its not hard to absorb
im4satori
Well-Known Member
looking at the picture there a lot going onmy other girls.. same nutes same water same molasses..
you've got sign of several issues combined...
back left corner the large fan leaves are drooping like they got too much N
you got 3 fingered fan leaves
you got long finger fan leaves
you got yellowing at the bootm and middle likely magnesium and calcium issues
you look like your removing fan leaves and I don't recommend that
first pic (the close up) you got red/rust colored freckles which is a calcium issue
al of these things combined clearly your over feeding with an imbalanced nutrient formula
if you where just simply deficient your plant would be yellowing out from N def and the tops wouldn't be super dark green and drooping
I don't think the molasses has anything to do with your over all problem.. but I also don't think its helping
don't worry about feeding sugars for now... that's more important for organics