ChilLED grow light

[REALSTYLES]

Show me.

I have to see for myself before I'll believe what you wrote.

Put 250W in a small space, record temp, that means the ballast as well.

Then do the same with 250W of COB, and not two COBs being run at 125W, we all know that will be far less efficient than ~62W.

I have a feeling the COBs will run cooler, that is my hypothesis.

You need to look at my threads and my Youtube

 

[Enigma]

Show me.

I know COBs run cooler because the have a higher efficiency.

Compare a COB to a HID, 187lm/W to 100lm/W.

You'd have to show me before I believe you.

The writing is on the wall.

 

[Enigma]

You need to look at my threads and my Youtube

Just link it here where you tested equal wattage.

 

[REALSTYLES]

Just link it here where you tested equal wattage.

What part of looking at my threads or Youtube you don't understand? I've done a lot here and don't have time to hold your hand just google REALSTYLES led and you'll see

 

[hillbill]

Be careful @REALSTYLES. Helpful people can get shit on here.

 

[wietefras]

Helpful people are fine. People who give incorrect answers claiming they are right because "they have been doing this for 40 years" rightfully "get shit". That's a huge distinction.

While Realstyles is more part of the "helpful people" category, unfortunately there has been an influx of people in the latter category "lately". So don't confuse the "shit those get" with what actually helpful people do and get.

 

[REALSTYLES]

180w CXB3590 6500k DD bin 2x4 tent



This is the plants 30 days later as you can see the other plants had to go elsewhere

 

[BobCajun]

Just link it here where you tested equal wattage.

Here I'll help you out. Apparently it's true, just read this page. Quote;

"1 watt of electricity used by a luminaire = 3.412 BTUs per hour. The same math works for any lighting fixture."

 

[VegasWinner]

I was talking about running 36 x 90watt boards at 350ma ( about 27 watts a sq ft)

You can use the new 1050b drivers and they dim to 10% so dimming would give you the same result just more flexibility. Question why such a low wattage? vegging?

 

[BobCajun]

I fixed the link in my last post, if anyone tried it before. Accidentally pasted that quote into the url box instead of the url, sorry bout that. Handy page because it tells you how much AC wattage you need per lamp wattage, 0.4. That's if you don't vent the heat some other way.

 

[Growcob5]

 

[Enigma]

I'll test this myself.

I have lights on the way as is, I'll just add this to the list.

There should be a temperature difference between COB and HID of equal wattage.

 

[BobCajun]

Haha, Growcob5, funny. The name I mean, not the video.

 

[BobCajun]

I'll test this myself.

I have lights on the way as is, I'll just add this to the list.

There should be a temperature difference between COB and HID of equal wattage.

Just can't believe it huh? Seems unituitive but nonetheless does make sense when you think about it. In a white sphere, for instance, all the light is reflected (presumably) so it would bounce around until it collides with other photons, converting it to heat. If the sphere was black then the sphere would heat up by absorbing it all. Either way, all the light would get converted to heat eventually.

 

[hillbill]

Sometimes physics don't seem to make sense.

 

[Enigma]

There is a reason people turn the AC down with HID and up with LED.

 

[Black Thumb]

You can use the new 1050b drivers and they dim to 10% so dimming would give you the same result just more flexibility. Question why such a low wattage? vegging?

If i only use 25-30 watts per sq foot and get the 700-1000 par per sq ft then thats my goal. Unless im understanding something wrong, running them soft is more effiecient and adding way more cobs/ boards to get the ppdf / par would be the most effecient set up not economical though which i understand.

For me when i think LEDS i think a light that uses half the energy to get better yields so if i can take 200 watts of led and produce the same amount as i would with 300 watts of another light (cmh) then i would rather double tables and spread my light rather then push hard on one table . For me my foot print is 3x3 with 315 (348 actual wattage) of CMH i can get 14-16oz per light this way 16 plants.
If led is far superior to other lights with an average 40% more effieciency my logic is when a 3x3 table is getting 16 oz thats my limit on foilage in that area anymore and im risking to much moisture per sq ft. ( Pretend i took 600 watts of led on 3x3 and got 2lbs the plants would be falling over each other and creating moisture problems)
So my Idea is take advantage of the LED energy and just double the footprint with the same amount of wattage.

 

[BobCajun]

If i only use 25-30 watts per sq foot and get the 700-1000 par per sq ft then thats my goal. Unless im understanding something wrong, running them soft is more effiecient and adding way more cobs/ boards to get the ppdf / par would be the most effecient set up not economical though which i understand.

For me when i think LEDS i think a light that uses half the energy to get better yields so if i can take 200 watts of led and produce the same amount as i would with 300 watts of another light (cmh) then i would rather double tables and spread my light rather then push hard on one table . For me my foot print is 3x3 with 315 (348 actual wattage) of CMH i can get 14-16oz per light this way 16 plants.
If led is far superior to other lights with an average 40% more effieciency my logic is when a 3x3 table is getting 16 oz thats my limit on foilage in that area anymore and im risking to much moisture per sq ft. ( Pretend i took 600 watts of led on 3x3 and got 2lbs the plants would be falling over each other and creating moisture problems)
So my Idea is take advantage of the LED energy and just double the footprint with the same amount of wattage.

Actually those are good yields you're getting with the cmh. You wouldn't be getting 2 lbs out of a 3x3 area anyway. There seems to be an upper limit to how many grams per sq ft you can get, regardless how much light you put in. It's usually around 45 g. Some people have reported getting a little more, You won't be getting no 100 g /sq ft though, I'm pretty sure of that. At least not if it's all coming from above. Adding some light lower down could increase the yield per sq ft, because it would be more than just the upper foot of plant that would be getting usable light. LEDs are good for that. Can't really stick a HID down under the canopy. I would keep using the cmh and just add some led with it to boost the overall light.

 

[sethimus]

I'll test this myself.

I have lights on the way as is, I'll just add this to the list.

There should be a temperature difference between COB and HID of equal wattage.

no, put both in a sealed room. both will heat it up the same. simple physics...

 

[wietefras]

In fact, it's not all that cut and dry. In a sealed room the air would indeed heat up equally with 1000W of led vs 1000W of HID, but in practice we don't grow in sealed rooms. Then the difference between the extra radiated heat from the HID heating up the plants becomes apparent and you will need to run the exhaust fan a bit harder with HID. With LED, the heat is mostly convection which simply rises up to the exhaust and gets sucked out.

With LED you can easily have the temp at plant height equal to the temperature of the intake. With HPS that's not really possible. It will always be a few degrees hotter around the plants than the intake temperature.