DIY with Quantum Boards

[coreywebster]

I've found that you can run the 120s much closer to the canopy; that, along with the spread of the diodes, provides excellent coverage, and a shit-ton of light. I have every confidence that the QB120 provides the makings of a great flowering light when you build it right. I'm loving mine, and I'm not wishing I'd gone 288 or 304 instead!

I like the idea of the QB120s, my 288s are a little on the intense side. Be nice to find that middle ground.

 

[keepsake]

Yes, where you from?

America. But I have a 240 breaker and plug hooked up in my room for my hps digital ballast. I was wondering if I can plug the hlg lights into that socket as well. Would it run even more efficient?

Because my 1000w hps only runs 4.5 amps on 240 but runs 9 amps on 120.

 

[Discreetdigrowman]

America. But I have a 240 breaker and plug hooked up in my room for my hps digital ballast. I was wondering if I can plug the hlg lights into that socket as well. Would it run even more efficient?

Because my 1000w hps only runs 4.5 amps on 240 but runs 9 amps on 120.

Yes most drivers can be run at 240 make sure it says it can first always good to have the data sheet. Running any load at 240v is more efficent ie less current

 

[619kt619]

America. But I have a 240 breaker and plug hooked up in my room for my hps digital ballast. I was wondering if I can plug the hlg lights into that socket as well. Would it run even more efficient?

Because my 1000w hps only runs 4.5 amps on 240 but runs 9 amps on 120.

The kits come with meanwell drivers and they are some of the highest quality I have seen as an electrician. They have wide driving range of 110v-240v and they can even be driven at 277v. The driver does NOT come with a plug i.e. you would fit your own plug that works with your outlet. And I can't speak for all drivers that meanwell carries but mine pull the same at the wall for voltages in the 110-240 range. At 277v they draw less amps

 

[pop22]

Good info! Looking forward to your results!

I've found that you can run the 120s much closer to the canopy; that, along with the spread of the diodes, provides excellent coverage, and a shit-ton of light. I have every confidence that the QB120 provides the makings of a great flowering light when you build it right. I'm loving mine, and I'm not wishing I'd gone 288 or 304 instead!

 

[PopeyeSpinach]

What temps are people having the best luck with? As in what range?

Due to falling temps I have recently modified my grow operations so that my ventilation fan comes on for 30 minutes and then is off for 60 min. Rather than have it on 24/7 as it was the first 3 weeks of my grow.

I also have a small ceramic heater in the room as well which I have set to come on at 71° and shut off at 83°

Any advice? Or just keep doing what I'm doing?

 

[nfhiggs]

However, 3 boards only slightly exceed a QB304 in chip count so the light produced by the QB120 is only about the equivalent of 1/3 of a QB304. Makes more sense economically to run the QB 288 0r 304
as three boards cost as much as 1 qob 304 with a heatsink! 1 to 2 boards in a small space or as veg lights to replace T5s seems a better use.

That said, I loved to see you or someone build such a light! Vertical scrog, 9 boards you can probably run the close to the plants......

Actually, for the same cost as a QB304 and heatsink, you're getting 20% more light, and its spread of a larger surface area. IMO, the biggest drawback of the QB's is that they are too compact.

 

[ttystikk]

Actually, for the same cost as a QB304 and heatsink, you're getting 20% more light, and its spread of a larger surface area. IMO, the biggest drawback of the QB's is that they are too compact.

Light spread is the biggest advantage of these boards. Tossing the heat sink completely reduces both cost and complication. Win-win!

 

[Doctor Derp]

Light spread is the biggest advantage of these boards. Tossing the heat sink completely reduces both cost and complication. Win-win!

QB120 vert array?

 

[ttystikk]

QB120 vert array?

Why not?

 

[Dave455]

Actually, for the same cost as a QB304 and heatsink, you're getting 20% more light, and its spread of a larger surface area. IMO, the biggest drawback of the QB's is that they are too compact.

This is where the DIY strip lights have advantage with even light and PAR values over entire canopy.

 

[Stephenj37826]

What temps are people having the best luck with? As in what range?

Due to falling temps I have recently modified my grow operations so that my ventilation fan comes on for 30 minutes and then is off for 60 min. Rather than have it on 24/7 as it was the first 3 weeks of my grow.

I also have a small ceramic heater in the room as well which I have set to come on at 71° and shut off at 83°

Any advice? Or just keep doing what I'm doing?

Mercury 4 from Titan controls is great. Very low fan idle speed to keep humidity spikes down and of course ramps up when needed for temp control. Day night settings is nice as well. Can also turn the fan off if the temp falls 10 degrees below temp setting.

 

[kaptinkush956]

Anybody have a 135W Qb in their tent? if so what is the average temps in the tent? im running a mars hydro 300 and the temp in my tent is running at about 75F with the light out and about 82F when the light is on.

 

[Humple]

Anybody have a 135W Qb in their tent? if so what is the average temps in the tent? im running a mars hydro 300 and the temp in my tent is running at about 75F with the light out and about 82F when the light is on.

Ambient temperature is a huge factor though. I had the 135w light in my tent, and the canopy temp was in the low 70s with the lights on. But my tent is in an unfinished basement with ambient temps in the mid-60s, so I doubt that's of much use to you. In any case, your temps sound pretty damn good to me, and I'd expect similar heat out of the QB.

 

[Black Thumb]

Okay I havent done series wiring yet
For 4-Qb120 boards wired to a HLG-240H-C2100A
Is this the Correct way to wire in series ?


Also the wiring between EACH board is going to be up to 3 ft apart the 4 boards are going to be spread out over 4 - 30x30 inch tables in a veg tent to replace a CMH 315 will having the wires from each board 3ft apart from the next board be okay ?

 

[Humple]

Okay I havent done series wiring yet
For 4-Qb120 boards wired to a HLG-240H-C2100A
Is this the Correct way to wire in series ?


Also the wiring between EACH board is going to be up to 3 ft apart the 4 boards are going to be spread out over 4 - 30x30 inch tables in a veg tent to replace a CMH 315 will having the wires from each board 3ft apart from the next board be okay ?


View attachment 4032336

That's right. Just be sure to use only one Molex connector per board. The 120s have a connector on each end of the board, but it's a passthrough, not a completely separate terminal. So use the positive and negative on a single Molex, leaving the second unused.

 

[Black Thumb]

That's right. Just be sure to use only one Molex connector per board. The 120s have a connector on each end of the board, but it's a passthrough, not a completely separate terminal. So use the positive and negative on a single Molex, leaving the second unused.

You saying like this instead ?

 

[Humple]

You saying like this instead ?

View attachment 4032342

It's hard to get across because you've got QB304s in the picture, and they have a different configuration. I'll try to remember to snap a pic of the connector and wiring when I'm in the garden later tonight, and then I'll post it up here.

 

[Black Thumb]

I Just looked at them i think i know what your saying. So it doesnt matter which molex i use on each board but only use one because one molex has a positive and negative, unlike the 288 and 304s which have their own molex for negative and positive.

 

[Humple]

I Just looked at them i think i know what your saying. So it doesnt matter which molex i use on each board but only use one because one molex has a positive and negative, unlike the 288 and 304s which have their own molex for negative and positive.

You've got it!