Prawn Connery
Well-Known Member
Yep. Sorry. You're right - I get it. I was going on your penultimate post.
I already referred to the sheet alesh made to transform SPD to QER and LER and I gave actual numbers plus an explanation why the "actual numbers" mean jack shit.Simple answer children... what is the LER?? Neither of you will prove anything till you actually put numbers up and do some calculation.
The point still is that the accuracy you assume is there, is actually nonexistent.We know that.
The problem with using lumens as a measurement is that they are based on the photopic curve, which ascribes 0 value to any wavelengths that fall outside that curve but which coincide with photosynthetic response.
I don't mean to be rude, but that is the whole point I'm trying to argue.
3x more strips but increased photons from more angles illuminating the girls up and down !!!!I'm actually looking at the new Q strips with LM301Bs. I will need about 3x as more compared to F Series double row, but there's not a massive price difference once you bulk buy 25+. I'm thinking two frames, 12-14 strips each (6p/7p 2s = 48v), each driven by a HLG-240H-48A for a total of about 480w.
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/samsung-semiconductor-inc/SI-B8V101560US/1510-2285-ND/7562243
What do you think? I'll have more time tomorrow to have a proper look - just an idea at this stage.
EDIT: I think the LM301B 3000K 80CRI curve looks a bit better than the LM561B at first glance. Slightly more efficient, too.
Heh, so, no one actually says that, but you have a whole rant about it anyway?
For comparing 3000K COBs/SMDs, lumen gives a decent indication of efficacy.
For more "exotic" SPDs, Alesh made an Excel sheet that lets you calculate the LER and QER from a spectral power distribution chart. Allowing those lumen values to be converted into PAR values (either 400-700 or wider).
No I didn't.
I was talking about comparing leds of the same color which, if people actually use lumen, would be doing. Which just goes to show your rant is even more baseless.
The thing is, you said none of that in your rant. I was just a rant against "So much emphasis seems to be placed on luminous flux - lumens per watt" when it hadn't been brought up even a single time.
But if you want to turn it around now and ask if you can compare efficiency for comparable SPD's, then yes. Yes you can.
You can compare those two 4000K 80 CRI COB/SMDs perfectly well on lumen. The difference is really only a bit more blue on the Cree. In this case going by the SPD charts you would be 2 percent off (in favor of the Samsung), but it's from datasheets anyway. Cree mentions 7 or 8% deviation in their datasheets and then they bin on 10% ranges. So the actual COB/SMD you hold in your hand can be quite far off from the datasheet.
So if you want to be sure what the actuall efficiency is then your only alternative really is to buy both and have each COB/SMD tested in a sphere (Or hope that CobKits tests them at some point). Barring that you will just have to learn to live with say 10% uncertainty of what you are getting or comparing. That 2% in "SPD lumen to PAR difference" really is insignificant in all this.
As you can see...you have not used what you asserted(the spreadsheet). You have not supplied any example calculations or actual calculation that you speak about.Yes, drop the blue on the Cree a little and the charts are pretty much identical.
I don't want to sink the boot into a guy who's down, but I don't think any of us know where the fuck that 2% figure comes from. He hasn't shown how he calculated it - or even guesstimated it.I already told you there is less than 2% difference between those SPDs. That's well within the actual (in)accuracy of the datasheets and therefore can be ignored.
Just crunched some numbers and the Q Series are quite a bit more than the F Series. I'd need 4x strips to equal one F Series double.3x more strips but increased photons from more angles illuminating the girls up and down !!!!
I'm actually looking at the new Q strips with LM301Bs. I will need about 3x as more compared to F Series double row, but there's not a massive price difference once you bulk buy 25+. I'm thinking two frames, 12-14 strips each (6p/7p 2s = 48v), each driven by a HLG-240H-48A for a total of about 480w.
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/samsung-semiconductor-inc/SI-B8V101560US/1510-2285-ND/7562243
What do you think? I'll have more time tomorrow to have a proper look - just an idea at this stage.
EDIT: I think the LM301B 3000K 80CRI curve looks a bit better than the LM561C at first glance. Slightly more efficient, too.
I already told you twice.I don't want to sink the boot into a guy who's down, but I don't think any of us know where the fuck that 2% figure comes from. He hasn't shown how he calculated it - or even guesstimated it.
You come in here with your pretend know it all nonsense and yet you miss half the story (the spreadsheet and what it does is clearly mentioned in what you quoted) and even what you say is only half accurateYou referenced a spread sheet...that is it.
Yepp!This is the referenced spreadsheet: https://www.rollitup.org/t/math-behind.868988/
I don't know where to start . . . because you clearly don't know what you're looking at in those graphs. I'm just hoping you have a basic understanding of maths so that you can comprehend where you've gone wrong in trying to stretch a few lines to fit an argument.I already told you twice.
:edit: You could also just scale the charts to see how little they differ.
View attachment 4043382
Honestly, you cannot see from that combined chart how almost identical those two charts are? Wow. Just wow.I don't know where to start . . .
It actually does since it's just a "relative" chart.It doesn't work that way.
So you come back with ZERO calculations or actual figures.You come in here with your pretend know it all nonsense and yet you miss half the story (the spreadsheet and what it does is clearly mentioned in what you quoted) and even what you say is only half accurate
You said some dumb things. Deal with it. Stop crying and pretending. If you want people to help you understand things then you shouldn't be such an ass to them to begin with.
BTW You do need QER for something useful and for true accuracy. I'm not going to look up a resource that's here on the site. "alesh + math" should get you along. If not, tough luck.
Either way, only a blind man would think those two SPD's look different. Would also need to be someone who doesn't understand at all how these things work. It's pretty much the same coating, but one has more blue. What could that mean? Perhaps just a little less of that same coating?
We have to stop meeting like this.So you come back with ZERO calculations or actual figures.
This has nothing todo with me yet you attempt to make it personal(and failed) beau sue of you lack of actual substance on the subject. It has todo with your childish arguments with no support. And you just continued it without any support.
Stop being a kid yelling with your words. And be an adult that shows and proves things with facts and numbers. Or just shut the duck up cause you can’t support you claims. Pick one.
It’s pretty simple. If he wants to be a loud mouth want to be knownit all...use actual facts and calculations that can’t be argued. It really is that simple. And the fact that he vaguely references a thread about calculations, but fights so hard to not do them, just shows he has know real understanding and won’t actually apply it...cause he doesn’t know how. Which is all fine and dandy. But when he comes out like he is the shit, but in reality can’t even do or present the most basic of calicaltiosn(hell even a link)...you see where my issues with mr no math come from.We have to stop meeting like this.