S1 seeds

[Daniel Lawton]

Yes, I've done it a few times. However, if the colloidal is weak and you don't spray long enough, or wait too late to start spraying, you'll only get a few piddly pollen pods. And maybe too late.

So make sure the colloidal is fresh, has enough color to know it's strong, and spray the heck out of it. Like 3 times a day (which is very inconvenient when you're only spraying a branch). If you see silver specs accumulating on the leaves, that's a good sign.

Well made colloidal won't kill leaves (at least not immediately), so you can spray more than the recommended twice a day, to make sure. Others here might disagree, but I've seen people fail to make pollen on a single branch, with no obvious explanation why. So overkill might be a good idea when you first try it.

Much easier is to spray a whole plant. Then you won't mind how many times a day you spray it, because it's easy.

As for losing parts of the plant to the colloidal, I just do an alcohol extraction on the remains of the sprayed parts, and only use the results to make chocolate. There can't be much health hazard with a tiny bit of silver that gets through the alcohol, especially if you eat it.

 

[Giggsy70]

People are taking diluted silver solutions for dietary supplements now a days. So am wandering if BHO is a good ending for a full sprayed plant?

 

[Daniel Lawton]

Tip if you don't like wiping grey fuzz from your electrodes while making colloidal:

The fuzz is called, "burning" by the electroplating people, and is a sign the voltage is too high. It forms on the positive terminal only. They use something closer to 1.5V. I can't remember precisely what, but it doesn't matter because they also use chemicals added to the water which increases current flow.

Problem is, at 1.5V it's far too slow to make a big mason jar of colloidal. That's probably why you see people recommending as high as 30V for making colloidal. It's fast enough for a big mason jar in less than a day.

But you have to wipe precious silver off the positive electrode every 15 minutes, and it WILL dissolve to nothing eventually.

So first tip, don't make so darned much. Get a 150ml beaker, and bend your electrodes in half so they fit.

Now the voltage. AC, forget it. Yes, there's no fuzz, but there's still electroplating crystals which form, and I've got 24VAC in a 150ml beaker right now. It's been 6 days. It's still not strong enough. 1ppm a day at most with 24VAC in 150ml.

DC works faster, you just need to find a no-fuzz voltage which still makes colloidal.

I tested 0.5V, 0.75V, 1.0V, 1.5V, and 1.62V (unloaded aa cell). Below 1.0V it either takes too long, or doesn't work at all.

Above 1.0V you still get fuzz. So 1.0V is the way to go if you want NO fuzz. You still get electroplate crystals forming on the negative terminal, but most of them land on the silver wire and attach, so there's only a few specs of shiny silver on the top. Nothing compared to the fuzz.

If you have a voltage meter you can do this. Get a 10K pot, make up a single AA battery holder, and adjust your electrodes to be exactly 1V using the pot.

Or, get a 22K resistor, a 13K resistor, and use a fresh AA cell. That'll give you 1.0V, but good luck finding the resistors without Radioshack (try digikey). Or use the formula for a voltage divider and find resistors that come out to 1.0V in the middle. So little current is used by this method, a fresh AA will last a very long time I suspect. But as it ages, you would in fact need to adjust the resistors.

You'll have NO fuzz, ever. It'll take 3 days to make colloidal at that voltage, in the 150ml beaker.

Best sprayer for a 150ml beaker: Those spray bottle of hydrogen peroxide you can get at CVS. Better than a sprayer you can buy seperately. A little hard to get the lid off and on.

With no fuzz loss, you can buy thinner silver wire, but use more of it. Like instead of the heavy wire, get 24 inches of 14 gauge wire, cut it in half, and make a spiral for each electrode, where on fits into the other with something to keep them from touching. That'll speed it up greatly since the current flow is dependent on all the parallel resistors formed by the solution and the length of wire (so longer is less resistance, more current).

I'll write this up in a new thread with some pics, because I HATE wiping fuzz from the electrodes.

 

[Daniel Lawton]

People are taking diluted silver solutions for dietary supplements now a days. So am wandering if BHO is a good ending for a full sprayed plant?

I have a hard time believing that little amount of silver could cause harm when smoked. There's silver in dust we breath all day.

But, no one's likely to study this scientifically.

If you try BHO for 20 years or so, be sure to report back what happened.

 

[Giggsy70]

I have a hard time believing that little amount of silver could cause harm when smoked. There's silver in dust we breath all day.

But, no one's likely to study this scientifically.

If you try BHO for 20 years or so, be sure to report back what happened.

Will check back in 20 if I am still above ground.

 

[Daniel Lawton]

Here's the results of my testing for making colloidal without fuzz and electrode loss. I'll just put the pic here, but I started a new thread with a full explanation. You can make trouble free colloidal that never needs attending until you are satisfied with the strength.

 

[whitebb2727]

so s1's are still worth buying?

Yes. They are not hermie prone unless the line was prone to herm to begin with as long as they are forced chemically. Stress reversing a female could lead to more herms.

I've yet to have a herm out of hundreds of fems. I research before I buy. Fems from a reputable breeder with a stable strain will not he any more prone to herm.

 

[whitebb2727]

All Feminized seeds are hermie prone.

Now from what I have researched - it is not the genetics that make them go Herm it is the environment. It is just that they can be triggered a bit more easily from the environment than a regular seed.

You read. How many have you grown?

 

[whitebb2727]

Tip if you don't like wiping grey fuzz from your electrodes while making colloidal:

The fuzz is called, "burning" by the electroplating people, and is a sign the voltage is too high. It forms on the positive terminal only. They use something closer to 1.5V. I can't remember precisely what, but it doesn't matter because they also use chemicals added to the water which increases current flow.

Problem is, at 1.5V it's far too slow to make a big mason jar of colloidal. That's probably why you see people recommending as high as 30V for making colloidal. It's fast enough for a big mason jar in less than a day.

But you have to wipe precious silver off the positive electrode every 15 minutes, and it WILL dissolve to nothing eventually.

So first tip, don't make so darned much. Get a 150ml beaker, and bend your electrodes in half so they fit.

Now the voltage. AC, forget it. Yes, there's no fuzz, but there's still electroplating crystals which form, and I've got 24VAC in a 150ml beaker right now. It's been 6 days. It's still not strong enough. 1ppm a day at most with 24VAC in 150ml.

DC works faster, you just need to find a no-fuzz voltage which still makes colloidal.

I tested 0.5V, 0.75V, 1.0V, 1.5V, and 1.62V (unloaded aa cell). Below 1.0V it either takes too long, or doesn't work at all.

Above 1.0V you still get fuzz. So 1.0V is the way to go if you want NO fuzz. You still get electroplate crystals forming on the negative terminal, but most of them land on the silver wire and attach, so there's only a few specs of shiny silver on the top. Nothing compared to the fuzz.

If you have a voltage meter you can do this. Get a 10K pot, make up a single AA battery holder, and adjust your electrodes to be exactly 1V using the pot.

Or, get a 22K resistor, a 13K resistor, and use a fresh AA cell. That'll give you 1.0V, but good luck finding the resistors without Radioshack (try digikey). Or use the formula for a voltage divider and find resistors that come out to 1.0V in the middle. So little current is used by this method, a fresh AA will last a very long time I suspect. But as it ages, you would in fact need to adjust the resistors.

You'll have NO fuzz, ever. It'll take 3 days to make colloidal at that voltage, in the 150ml beaker.

Best sprayer for a 150ml beaker: Those spray bottle of hydrogen peroxide you can get at CVS. Better than a sprayer you can buy seperately. A little hard to get the lid off and on.

With no fuzz loss, you can buy thinner silver wire, but use more of it. Like instead of the heavy wire, get 24 inches of 14 gauge wire, cut it in half, and make a spiral for each electrode, where on fits into the other with something to keep them from touching. That'll speed it up greatly since the current flow is dependent on all the parallel resistors formed by the solution and the length of wire (so longer is less resistance, more current).

I'll write this up in a new thread with some pics, because I HATE wiping fuzz from the electrodes.

1.5 volts works just fine. I prefer lower voltage. The lower the voltage the smaller the silver particle. In my experience lower voltage makes better cs and works better.

I find a 3-5 volt cell phone charger works the best out of everything I have tried.

 

[Daniel Lawton]

You read. How many have you grown?

Yea, I read that too in multiple places.

But I've grown about 54 autoflowers now, nearly all from cloning seeds using colloidal. I never saw a single one go hermie, except when I kept it for weekks past it's normal ending.

But that's a bad thing! I'd rather have a few pods grow and make some S1 seeds for me. And the last time I bought some super high quality pot at a store, and found a seed in the bud, my friends said I was "lucky".

All the anti-seed stuff puzzles me. Back in the dark ages, if you bought a 4 finger lid for $15, it was mostly seeds.

 

[Daniel Lawton]

1.5 volts works just fine. I prefer lower voltage

You don't get any fuzz at 1.5V? I'm going to retest that voltage then. My 1.0V method still takes 3 days. I'd like to speed that up.

 

[whitebb2727]

Yea, I read that too in multiple places.

But I've grown about 54 autoflowers now, nearly all from cloning seeds using colloidal. I never saw a single one go hermie, except when I kept it for weekks past it's normal ending.

But that's a bad thing! I'd rather have a few pods grow and make some S1 seeds for me. And the last time I bought some super high quality pot at a store, and found a seed in the bud, my friends said I was "lucky".

All the anti-seed stuff puzzles me. Back in the dark ages, if you bought a 4 finger lid for $15, it was mostly seeds.

Actually keeping a plant and over ripening is one way to make fem seeds. Rodelazation. Not sure about the spelling.

CS or over ripening is the best way to make fems. STS works better than CS.

I've read the herm thing. Out of hundreds of fems I haven't had a herm. My cab has pin hole leaks. I've had more herms out of regs seeds.

I research breeders and strains first.

I said I haven't had a fem herm but now that I'm thinking about I recall one that hermed on me. That was my fault though. I stressed it by opening the door too many times after lights out.

You don't get any fuzz at 1.5V? I'm going to retest that voltage then. My 1.0V method still takes 3 days. I'd like to speed that up.

No fuzz. A little corrosion. What kind of silver do you use?

A small airstone in the water helps move water around for better silver distribution.

I grew from bag and brick seeds for years. I've found plenty of fire in them. If a plant is heavily seeded it was either a male or full on early herm. If it was make then its no big deal. Full on herm then I wouldn't want them. If its a random seed or just a few then a late nanner caused it and I wouldn't worry about growing them.

 

[SoDak]

I'm starting some Space Dragon S1's!

 

[Daniel Lawton]

No fuzz. A little corrosion. What kind of silver do you use?
A small airstone in the water helps move water around for better silver distribution.

Mine's 9999 silver wire.

I tested this again over the weekend, and didn't get electrode burning at 1.5-1.6V (a single AA cell). But left completely unattended with no vibrations and no bubble stone, it produced electroplate crystals on the negative terminal. A lot more than I expected.

There's 2 kinds of losses, burning and electroplate.

I've set up the test again at 1.0V to see what unattended looks like at that voltage. I think maybe at 1.5V the electroplating is taking place at full force (commercial silver electroplating uses a voltage near that), but without the chemicals in the solution to make it easy for the silver to deposit on the negative terminal. So you get crystal fuzz too.

Just a guess though. Here's a pic of the electroplate formation on the negative terminal at 1.5V. However, when strained through filter paper, it's a very tiny amount. Only looks like a lot because it grew into a fragile structure. So at 1.5V, the electrode should last a long time also.

I was just shooting for no losses, just to find out if it was possible. I still didn't achieve it, I get very tiny and very shiny crystals floating on the top. But less than that 1.5V crystal fuzz.

 

[Pothead Man]

Why don't people just Google this shit lmao

 

[Herb & Suds]

Why don't people just Google this shit lmao
View attachment 5074652

View attachment 5074654

They might have three years ago

 

[DrOgkush]

More like 13 years ago….