AutoFLower issue

[Anon618]

View attachment 4096647 Hi all, Noob here.

First autoflower grow and im running into come nutrient issue. Is this a calcium deficiency ?

Idk if the auto's have different nutrient requirements since im using the same mix i used on the blue dream veg cycle and had no issues.

Any help always appreciated!

 

[2011rex87]

If you suspect a cal or mag def., just go ahead and supplement more. the pic is not loading correctly but i see the thumbnail. you can try a liquid calmag supplement next time you need to water. its rare to have toxicity with cal or mag when using premade commercial plant food. normally its the opposite and you need much more. what media are you using? coco will require more calmag than other medias because it tends to bind up some of the cal.

 

[Lordhooha]

If you suspect a cal or mag def., just go ahead and supplement more. the pic is not loading correctly but i see the thumbnail. you can try a liquid calmag supplement next time you need to water. its rare to have toxicity with cal or mag when using premade commercial plant food. normally its the opposite and you need much more. what media are you using? coco will require more calmag than other medias because it tends to bind up some of the cal.

Yah pics are having a hard time loading since last night for me.

 

[Anon618]

Sorry about the pic, let me try again.

 

[Anon618]

If you suspect a cal or mag def., just go ahead and supplement more. the pic is not loading correctly but i see the thumbnail. you can try a liquid calmag supplement next time you need to water. its rare to have toxicity with cal or mag when using premade commercial plant food. normally its the opposite and you need much more. what media are you using? coco will require more calmag than other medias because it tends to bind up some of the cal.

Im growing in a regular soil

 

[2011rex87]

How often are you watering? can you collect and measure any run off for us next time? i would like to know ec/ppm and ph going in and coming out. is there any chance you are overwatering?

 

[Anon618]

How often are you watering? can you collect and measure any run off for us next time? i would like to know ec/ppm and ph going in and coming out. is there any chance you are overwatering?

Only water every 2-3 days. Guessing you think this is a ph issue (too acidic?) . i will measure run off next time. Also, im using RO water.

 

[2011rex87]

Cool let us know... if it is a PH issue that could explain alot because the PH of the rootzone needs to be in range.

 

[Anon618]

Cool let us know... if it is a PH issue that could explain alot because the PH of the rootzone needs to be in range.

Ok, ran enough water through so i could get a reading. PH = 5 and PPM = 100

I have no clue how my PH got so low. Im using the same soil i used for my BlueDream grow and i never had any issues.. I did add knatNix to the mix and added earthworm castings just below transplant site. I always PH my water to around 6.3 - 6.5

What is the best way to get the PH back up asap?? Thanks again for any help!

 

[2011rex87]

If your regular soil has peat moss in it, that could explain the lower PH in the root zone. Your soil is probably not PH neutral in the sense that you'll have to adjust your water going in so your root zone ph is on point. I would do this... You said your water going in is 6.5 and water coming out is 5. You want the water coming out to be 5.8 to 6. So you want to PH up your water going in to 7 and take a reading coming out. If it's still below 5.8, bump your water going in up to 7.3 and take another reading. The feed solution going in can be above 7 don't worry because it's the root zone PH that matters most.

 

[GBAUTO]

Agreed that you need to correct the pH issues. The photo I see looks like a Mn deficiency to me-this may be created from the pH issue.

 

[Blitz35]

Seems to me that it's a sulfur deficiency.

 

[Anon618]

If your regular soil has peat moss in it, that could explain the lower PH in the root zone. Your soil is probably not PH neutral in the sense that you'll have to adjust your water going in so your root zone ph is on point. I would do this... You said your water going in is 6.5 and water coming out is 5. You want the water coming out to be 5.8 to 6. So you want to PH up your water going in to 7 and take a reading coming out. If it's still below 5.8, bump your water going in up to 7.3 and take another reading. The feed solution going in can be above 7 don't worry because it's the root zone PH that matters most.

Really appreciate all the help from everyone. This is what i love about growing.. always something new to learn! Again, ty!

 

[Anon618]

Been thinking about this .. Im growing 2 autoflowers atm and this plant grew big fast, the other not so much so i had to transplant this one first into a bigger pot. The smaller plant showing zero signs of issue. I added knat nix and earthworm castings to this soil. One or both has to be causing the PH issue. Note to self. Soil / perlite.. that is it!

 

[Blitz35]

Peat moss isn't soil. As noted, if not amended with lime, the ph will drop alot as the peat moss breaks down. Worm castings would also allow the ph to be stabilized and not allow it to drop drastically. If you were growing in actual soil, you wouldn't be in danger of ph dropping too much too fast (provided feedings aren't crazy acidic). What exactly are you growing in? People consider peat moss (which many bags of dirt are) as soil, which it's not. If using RO water, yes, you need to add cal-mag, but that yellowing is neither of those deficiencies..all signs point to sulfur. Does your nute contain sulfur? I know for some reason, many 'regular' commercial plant foods don't seem to. The yellowing veins at the top and green between veins, not to mention the overall bleaching of the top, seems like a sure sulfur deficiency. If your ph was the only reason causing this, then other elements would not be getting through either. Meaning, if ph was too low, you would see calcium and magnesium issues popping up, with possibly potassium. If it was too high, you'd see a host of other problems with the top as heavier micros (iron, copper, zinc, manganese) get locked out. How much water did you allow to run through when you took that runoff reading?

 

[deep_rob]

if sulpher, use Espom salts.. u can use garden sulfide or sulfate from a hydro store, but epsom salts are availabe at walmart and grocery stores.. but may not be sulpher... ive seen this discoloration with china leds in a few gardens before.. too much food, like N to the max and too much P, + cooler temps + low-hanging leds = discolored tops.. riase the leds a bit. yellow should grow itself out to green again in a week..

 

[Anon618]

if sulpher, use Espom salts.. u can use garden sulfide or sulfate from a hydro store, but epsom salts are availabe at walmart and grocery stores.. but may not be sulpher... ive seen this discoloration with china leds in a few gardens before.. too much food, like N to the max and too much P, + cooler temps + low-hanging leds = discolored tops.. riase the leds a bit. yellow should grow itself out to green again in a week..

I did lower my lights a bit, so you may be on to something.. thank you so much for the suggestion

 

[Blitz35]

Too much N wouldn't discolor the top, n toxicity doesn't cause bleaching. Too much N would also lock potassium out. Same with too much phosphorus..it doesnt create a bleaching affect..if it was too much P, then iron, zinc manganese calcium and magnesium would be locked out as well..not to mention very thin blades on upper leaves. How intense is your light?

 

[Anon618]

Peat moss isn't soil. As noted, if not amended with lime, the ph will drop alot as the peat moss breaks down. Worm castings would also allow the ph to be stabilized and not allow it to drop drastically. If you were growing in actual soil, you wouldn't be in danger of ph dropping too much too fast (provided feedings aren't crazy acidic). What exactly are you growing in? People consider peat moss (which many bags of dirt are) as soil, which it's not. If using RO water, yes, you need to add cal-mag, but that yellowing is neither of those deficiencies..all signs point to sulfur. Does your nute contain sulfur? I know for some reason, many 'regular' commercial plant foods don't seem to. The yellowing veins at the top and green between veins, not to mention the overall bleaching of the top, seems like a sure sulfur deficiency. If your ph was the only reason causing this, then other elements would not be getting through either. Meaning, if ph was too low, you would see calcium and magnesium issues popping up, with possibly potassium. If it was too high, you'd see a host of other problems with the top as heavier micros (iron, copper, zinc, manganese) get locked out. How much water did you allow to run through when you took that runoff reading?

Someone else mentioned peat moss, i am not using it. Im growing on soil, soil i have used successfully in other grows. I did add a bit of earthworm castings and agriculture lime. In terms of runnoff , it was about 2 cups of water that i tested from. I always ph my water to about 6.3 ish. Why im getting 5 ph runoff i have no clue.

 

[Anon618]

Too much N wouldn't discolor the top, n toxicity doesn't cause bleaching. Too much N would also lock potassium out. Same with too much phosphorus..it doesnt create a bleaching affect..if it was too much P, then iron, zinc manganese calcium and magnesium would be locked out as well..not to mention very thin blades on upper leaves. How intense is your light?

Im just running an Optic 2 aprox 300 watt about 20 inches from plants. will raise to see if this helps.