Manifolding (Menorah'n) Plants in a GreenHouse
- Thread starter hydra-glide
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Miyagismokes
Well-Known Member
Whoa, under sun?
too larry
Well-Known Member
Yes, without umbrage. {no shade thrown}. An Ass Cheese f2 and an Ass Cheese Blues started early flowering in May and never stopped. The AC was 2-3 weeks shy when I had to take her down due to rot, and the ACB was only about a week short. It was a first for me. I've had early flower before, but they always re-vegged.
Miyagismokes
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I've never had any tenaciously hold to it like that either.
Even the ones this year that got to about three weeks from finish, revegged...
Sithlord88
Well-Known Member
I use that kinda fencing for lst outdoor lol. I snip it so i can stab it a ft into the ground around the pots the attach wires from the squares to branches
Already chopped 2 outdoor?!
too larry
Well-Known Member
I did see a few white hairs right at the end. They might have been trying. But I'm already smoking on the Ass Cheese, and the ACB will be dry soon.
too larry
Well-Known Member
Keep reading.
hydra-glide
Well-Known Member
I've thought about my issue with height and no where to support the colas from above, and as you have probably imagined, there is only one way out of this dilemma and that is to build a high-rise with large 6-pane openings, by attaching another 3 ft. high or 18" high section - and "wire-strapping/JB-Weld" it to the first story. With the high-rise solidly attached I can train and red-wire the tower into a manageable bud-aviary with amble access openings.Of Note: I first used black RTV silicone. Not a good idea. If you need to repair an RTV repair nothing sticks to RTV except RTV.
The other and best product I used is clear, Goop. Not sold at Home Depot. Originally designed to repair the soles of tennis shoes, it hardens and last out in the elements.
https://www.amazon.com/Shoreline-Marine-GOOP-3-7-Ounce-Clear/dp/B0098PNZLO/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1532371024&sr=1-3&keywords=Goop
I'm going to overlap the first 4" run over the top perimeter of the existing cage, O.D., to make it a slightly larger diameter, and fasten as a spliced cage, first stabilizing the junctions with red-wire and then JB-Welding where the wires are making natural contact. 6-panel holes can be cut and Goop-tipped for safety. If it's too tall, some can be removed and the end wires turned to a loop. This pic is butt-faced. In actually the top cage will drop down the outside 4" and be securely fastened in about 7 places.
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hydra-glide
Well-Known Member
All of the openings should be 6-pane (6x
. The nest 6-pane holes need to touch that support panel in a couple place or more. 4-pane holes or of almost no use at all. The Goop® will save your skin on the wire ends and make this cage system doable. It can also be used to repair a mistakenly snipped wire, and build-up up for corner strength. The red wire bindings gives ample support to the second story foundation.
. The nest 6-pane holes need to touch that support panel in a couple place or more. 4-pane holes or of almost no use at all. The Goop® will save your skin on the wire ends and make this cage system doable. It can also be used to repair a mistakenly snipped wire, and build-up up for corner strength. The red wire bindings gives ample support to the second story foundation.
hydra-glide
Well-Known Member
The best way for easy access in the second story is to snip 8 x 12" holes (4 panes across and 4 panes high) and tip the wire-ends with Goop. And make those access holes on both sides opposite each other.
hydra-glide
Well-Known Member
All cages are completed with 8 x12" openings on opposite sides. For an approx. 18" disc, it takes overall, 62" of 2x4" fencing to wrap around, with 2-4" on each end to wrap and tie. 62" allows for bare wires on each end, though you will need to snip one end free of it's closed end. One end of my wire surround is looped outward, and the other end of the surround has wires that are looped downward. One side will then naturally hook the other side.
It seems that the branches want to turn upward on their own. I can adjust their heights to an even canopy using red-tie wire. Hoping to get another 5-days of veg, before changing to 10-30-20 Jack's Bloom. This is their "last week of veg, or first week of bloom defoliate".
It seems that the branches want to turn upward on their own. I can adjust their heights to an even canopy using red-tie wire. Hoping to get another 5-days of veg, before changing to 10-30-20 Jack's Bloom. This is their "last week of veg, or first week of bloom defoliate".
Miyagismokes
Well-Known Member
You should look into 6" grid woven wire fencing.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
You're so far south that it makes sense they wouldn't revert without help.
hydra-glide
Well-Known Member
In out latitude and longitude July 22, is the first day of the year that there is only 13hr. and 59 seconds of daylight. Beyond that and into August the plants will wake-up and smell the approaching autumn. Hence auto-bloomin' mate!..... though your tribe may call this July 6, our tribe calls this July 22.
Of note: During veg I used 3-IN-One and nothing else. No BT, or Spinosad. Nothing but 3N1. And here we are one week after the last application of 3N1, and the next application will be with the translaminar (kills on both side of the leaf without spraying under the leaves)...TetraSan. TetraSan will stay on the leaves killing everything that walks, crawls, or flies for four weeks. Now we're four weeks into bloom. The next killer-cide after TetraSan is Kontos, the systemic drench, which will last for 4 or 5 weeks. So now, we're 8-9 weeks into flower. That's close to Sativa finish-time. If bugs appear, Kontos can be used one-more time until harvest. Cease (water-based) can also be added to TetraSan to protect against bud-rot. I've had bud rot in the eighth week of bloom every grow, with clones, but this grow is from seeds, so we'll see how bud-rot reacts to seed-growth.
Here's where you can find daylight hours for the entire year by entering the location of your teepee: (thanks Farmer)
http://aa.usno.navy.mil/data/docs/Dur_OneYear.php/
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hydra-glide
Well-Known Member
What I've found is that a 6" square is not enough room for me to operate my blue-top pump spray bottle. I like to get in there with my entire arm and swing wildly from one side to the other. I don't like netting or grids that I have to fight with to work around. Bugs are bad enough, I cannot paint myself into restricted movement. I want the freedom to wail, and 6" squares are not conducive to getting crazy with my bug-gun.
https://www.invertersupply.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=21999&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping&utm_term=4584894769462922&utm_content=Product Listing Ads
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ttystikk
Well-Known Member
No, this is a basic astronomy definition; aphelion is defined as the point in any orbit when the two objects are furthest apart. For Earth, this happens in early July.In out latitude and longitude July 22, is the first day of the year that there is only 13hr. and 59 seconds of daylight. Beyond that and into August the plants will wake-up and smell the approaching autumn. Hence auto-bloomin' mate!..... though your tribe may call this July 6, our tribe calls this July 22.
Of note: During veg I used 3-IN-One and nothing else. No BT, or Spinosad. Nothing but 3N1. And here we are one week after the last application of 3N1, and the next application will be with the translaminar (kills on both side of the leaf without spraying under the leaves)...TetraSan. TetraSan will stay on the leaves killing everything that walks, crawls, or flies for four weeks. Now we're four weeks into bloom. The next killer-cide after TetraSan is Kontos, the systemic drench, which will last for 4 or 5 weeks. So now, we're 8-9 weeks into flower. That's close to Sativa finish-time. If bugs appear, Kontos can be used one-more time until harvest. Cease (water-based) can also be added to TetraSan to protect against bud-rot. I've had bud rot in the eighth week of bloom every grow, with clones, but this grow is from seeds, so we'll see how bud-rot reacts to seed-growth.
Here's where you can find daylight hours for the entire year by entering the location of your teepee: (thanks Farmer)
Perihelion is when the two objects in orbit are at their closest.
You may be thinking of a different term and that's fine- but this one is already taken.
hydra-glide
Well-Known Member
Surely the day of the year when the sun is on the wane by the first one-second must have a name, and I believe that name to be the down-slope of daylight's crescendo, 2018, although July 22, was the same day for this event in 2017, suggesting the earth has to tilt more to bounce it to the 23rd of July.
ganga gurl420
Well-Known Member
You are lucky. I don't hit that until Aug 19th (13:58 sunlight)In out latitude and longitude July 22, is the first day of the year that there is only 13hr. and 59 seconds of daylight. Beyond that and into August the plants will wake-up and smell the approaching autumn. Hence auto-bloomin' mate!..... though your tribe may call this July 6, our tribe calls this July 22.
Of note: During veg I used 3-IN-One and nothing else. No BT, or Spinosad. Nothing but 3N1. And here we are one week after the last application of 3N1, and the next application will be with the translaminar (kills on both side of the leaf without spraying under the leaves)...TetraSan. TetraSan will stay on the leaves killing everything that walks, crawls, or flies for four weeks. Now we're four weeks into bloom. The next killer-cide after TetraSan is Kontos, the systemic drench, which will last for 4 or 5 weeks. So now, we're 8-9 weeks into flower. That's close to Sativa finish-time. If bugs appear, Kontos can be used one-more time until harvest. Cease (water-based) can also be added to TetraSan to protect against bud-rot. I've had bud rot in the eighth week of bloom every grow, with clones, but this grow is from seeds, so we'll see how bud-rot reacts to seed-growth.
Here's where you can find daylight hours for the entire year by entering the location of your teepee: (thanks Farmer)
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
If there's a name for this, my best guess would be 'summer', since the first day of summer is the longest day of the year (usually June 21st) and the last day of summer is the Autumn equinox (on or about September 21st).
The day when you see 14 hours of daylight will vary by latitude. Personally, I think the day you see 13.5 hours of daylight would be the one to watch for, as 10.5 hours of darkness seems to be the generally accepted standard for bloom.