A Guide To Colloidal Silver

Poontanger

Well-Known Member
Thankyou Flower-gurl, what color was your CS when it was finished, & did U check the PPM's ?

Don't suppose you know how many amps the charger was pushing out ??, as ive read the the lower the amps , the longer it takes , but the silver particles are finer & make a better quality CS
 

flower-gurl

New Member
Happy to help! My CS was almost clear, with a very, very slight grayish tint. I don't have a tester, so don't know the PPM of the finished product.

The specs of the phone charger I used are 5VDC and 260mA: My knowledge of electrical things is limited to "don't touch" - sorry I can't help more than that. You can check the photo in my previous post - I tried to get a shot of the charger adapter's specs for you.
 
A Guide To Colloidal Silver
Thank you so much for writing this guide Hazy! Sorry for all the text but I blame you for showing me this was easy to make at home :weed:

I just made a jar of CS for some clones I just cut so I'm a few+ weeks out from testing it.

I wanted to add that most people have access to .999 fine silver locally that they can pick up same day, look for a store near you that sells silver bullion (they're everywhere) and you'll have all ever need and at cost, no eBay/amazon markup/waiting/watered down product. Also no paperwork & cash, satisfy that paranoia.

After I found this thread I started digging around for more info on the topic of CS generation and I found this journal research article which suggests that you can control particle size of the silver colloids by using specific wavelengths of light. The shorter wavelength end for smaller colloids.

More specifically, the size/conversion of the silver colloid appears to be controlled by some formula of the number of silver ions detaching from the anode (which is a function of lots of other things) and the amount/wavelength of photons available to collide with those ions to neutralize them, making them silver colloids. Journal article and quote below but clearly for the purposes of turning a plant we don't need to be so exact.

I'm wondering what kind of light everyone has made their CS under?

What I used

- 2x 1oz .999 bullion pieces.


- 5v@1A USB wall transformer, the actual output of the transformer will vary based on the load, in this case the resistance of the water to the flow of current. The conductive properties of the water will change over time but the closer the electrodes the better the conduction (but its water so its a poor conductor), in short (that wasn't sort), I have no idea what my actual current usage was but it never exceeded 1 Amp (1000mA).

- Veg tent & light (LED with moderate par rating)

- 1qt mason jar 90% full or so of distilled water (0 ppm measured).

I had the silver pieces half submerged, broad sides facing, about a quarter inch to a half inch apart and under the veg spectrum of my light in my veg tent. While I don't know the exact photon wavelengths emitting from the veg band, the lower half of the light's range appears to be about 370nm - 500nm.

I checked and cleaned off the electrodes every 2.5 hrs with a paper towel and rinsed them after cleaning with fresh distilled water to remove any paper towel particulate that might contaminate the CS solution.

Results
I saw roughly a 1ppm/hr rise with the tds meter (I know, I don't know what to tell you) and passed the laser test after a couple hours.
It wasn't until I saw a greater than 10ppm reading that my solution was noticeably yellowish.
I brought the solution to 20ppm and its only slightly yellow.

The journal article mentioned
Is attached as pdf, I can't link until I post more, sorry.

Excerpt from page 3
Colloidal Silver-Facts and Fallacies

Contrary to the popular belief that electrochemistry or electrolysis produces colloidal silver, is incorrect. It does nothing of the sort. It only produces ionic silver when the two electrodes have a voltage potential across them and current is allowed to flow. Also, the entire process must be shielded from broadband light. This current is then responsible for extracting silver atoms from the silver anode and during that process, one or more conduction electrons are removed. This then results in the silver atom turning into a positive cation, which will be attracted to the silver cathode if in close proximity. The fact that some colloid formation is initiated anyway is due to the presence blue, indigo, violet and UV light forming part of existing ambient light conditions.

Why most attempts at producing colloidal silver have gone awry, is due to the ignorance about the need of short wavelengths of light in reducing ionic silver to neutral silver. For a start, the colour blue at around 420 nm is absorbed by silver, and this causes colloidal silver at around 420 nm to present a yellowish hue. There is a reason for this. Blue is missing from the visible spectrum. Darker blues, such as indigo, violet and ultra-violet from 420 nm to around 320 nm (penetration limit of UV to glass) have an ever increasing energy component expressed in electron volts. Electron volt levels (eV), ranging from 2.64 eV in the blue (470 nm) to 6.2 eV in the Far UV (200 nm) have the ability to effect this transfer. These frequencies are of a sufficient strength to collide with hydrated electrons (captive in the water), to whom they impart most of their energy during such collisions. Imagine any electrochemical operation in ambient light conditions subject to the full extent of the visible spectrum from violet 400 nm (3.0eV) to infrared 1000 nm (1.24 eV), perhaps with some artificial lights thrown in, and it becomes obvious that there will never be any predictable outcomes. The result of using broadband light is a motley of varying size clusters (poly-suspended), the result of this which will not conducive to the making of an effective antibiotic. Light and temperatures change from moment to moment, are never the same, and as such, also needs to be controlled [8-10,16,17-20].

We found that the best results for producing high grade colloidal silver (without also producing ionic silver content), is to work in complete darkness and at a low temperature. We used a domestic refrigerator, set to maximum 10°C. During the subsequent electrochemical process, we simultaneously radiate the ionic silver produced with high energy, short wavelength blue, indigo, violet or UV light. The photons so produced, then collide with captive hydrated electrons in the water and liberating them. This is referred to as Photon Electron Transfer or photo reduction and responsible for turning ionic silver (Ag+) into neutral silver clusters of atoms (Ag0). The current view on this procedure is that the frequency of the photons is a deciding factor in the number of atoms in the cluster, and thus its size in nano metres. Contrary to existing views that atoms come together to form clusters, it is the water that forces the atoms to cling together in clusters. As some scientists put it, “light sculptures nanoparticles” On the matter of irradiation of ionic silver by blue, indigo, violet and ultraviolet light, we wish to hark back to the technology of Black & White film exposure in vogue decades ago [21-23]. Exposure to these high energy photons, ionic silver (silver halides) deposited on the film material are exposed, and a latent image is formed. This image, although real, cannot be seen until the film and the exposed silver halide are developed by chemistry (Developer and Fixer). A deciding factor in these exposures is the number of photons that collide with the silver ions. It stands to reason that an insufficient number of photons will not expose every silver ion, but a sufficient number of photons will. Likewise, it is with electrochemically produced ionic silver. The level of exposure depends on the concentration of silver ions making their way from the anode to the cathode. An insufficient number of photons may not collide with a sufficient number of hydrated electrons in the water or worse, the ions may not be evenly distributed due to contamination or matrix formation of the water molecules. The result is that some ionic silver remains and the end product is an undetermined ratio of both ionic and colloidal silver. Other deciding factors that arise are from contamination in the water and its ability to create molecular matrixes. It is claimed that there are three types of molecular matrixes for water. These are appropriately named the crate, the prism and open book configuration. It is further claimed that the first two (crate and prism) are able to contain matter other than itself. That is certainly the case when these matrixes hold hydrated electrons captive. Submersed silver atoms in a cluster present a negative electrical charge. This is due to the unpaired single conduction electron in the outer shell. Positively charged hydrogen ions in the water, orientate themselves onto the negative appearing atomic silver clusters and literally hold the cluster captive. This is referred to as the Stern layer, the innermost of the double layers. Beyond the Stern layer, a second layer called the diffuse layer consists of a mixture of negative and positive ions. Between these two layers, an interfacial electrostatic charge called the Zeta potential is created. For silver, that charge is negative. This Zeta potential is located between the Stern layer and diffuse layer (Double layer). Generally, if all clusters are all of a same small size and shape (mono suspension) and the concentration (ppm) low, the Zeta potential [24], is bound to be high. At around -25 mV, the Zeta potential starts to exert a repulsive action against the attractive forces of the Van der Waals Force. When the concentration is low, the Zeta potential can theoretically reach a level of -100 mV. Likewise, if all clusters are of the same minus potential, there will be a maximum repelling action, and thus, a true nano sized and stable colloidal suspension exists. However, too high a concentration (beyond saturation level), instability may set in due to clusters being compressed.
 

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Poontanger

Well-Known Member
Lovemfrosty, your saying , that , the 2 eligator clips, connected to the silver bullion, were not in anyway touching the water , only abot 2/3 , of the bullion was ??

& im confused (not hard) about the lighting , are you saying, if you make the CS under a constant light source , ie , no dark hours , it does a better job , or the CS stays clearer, & is quicker ??
 
Lovemfrosty, your saying , that , the 2 eligator clips, connected to the silver bullion, were not in anyway touching the water , only abot 2/3 , of the bullion was ??
Yes, only the silver touches the water.
Submerged half way or 2/3 should be roughly the same, mine was about half.

& im confused (not hard) about the lighting , are you saying, if you make the CS under a constant light source , ie , no dark hours , it does a better job , or the CS stays clearer, & is quicker ??
I'm saying this article says you can control the silver colloid size by using specific portions of the light spectrum. Using a lower spectrum of light to make finer particles.

I don't know for a fact if using a specific and limited band of light had any impact, I posted this to see what everyone else here thought and what kind of light their CS was made under/exposed to.

But according to this article and a couple other sources I went through, electrolysis (that is your two silver pieces running current through the water) only ever produces ionic silver (which is not the same as colloidal silver). It's either the photonic or electrochemical after affects that turn the ionic silver into neutral colloids.

You'll see in lots of videos or how-to articles on making CS for human consumption (I'm only dealing with plants) that they usually add a 'detergent' after the electrolysis to convert the solution to true colloidal silver (but now it has that detergent in it too, I ain't drinking that! and your plants probably don't want it either).

However, if you have a sufficient amount of photons in the Blue through UV portion of the light spectrum flying around the room, crashing into these silver ions, they will break the ionic silver chunks into smaller silver colloids (which is done chemically in the detergent example).
 

Poontanger

Well-Known Member
how long will CS last if stored in glass & kept away from light & exsesive heat, does a higher PPM last longer & how strong , ie ppm's is to strong for the job, as ive read were a dude made his to 10-12 ppm's & made sacks no probs but no pollen , on the other hand sum say CS @ 30 ppm's , just burns the plants, & almost kills them
 

Rob Roy

Well-Known Member

Below is an excerpt from an article by Jonathan Glauser. concerning his claims of shelf life. Your mileage may vary.

What is the shelf life of colloidal silver?

How long will colloidal silver last if stored properly? What is the best way to store it? The shelf life of colloidal silver has been proven to last over 10 years when stored correctly! This is dependent on meeting the proper storage conditions. Mountain Well-Being Colloidal Silver comes with a guaranteed shelf life of three years.

What are the proper conditions to maximize shelf life of colloidal silver?
It’s simple, to correctly store colloidal silver to last as long as you need, there are three key factors to keep in mind.

  1. Store colloidal silver at room temperature. Extreme temperatures can shorten the shelf life.
  2. Keep colloidal silver out of direct light and store it in amber or cobalt colored glass containers. Plastic containers will definitely shorten the shelf life.
  3. Keep colloidal silver away from strong electromagnetic frequencies, such as appliances or computers. Each silver ion and particle have an electric charge that keeps them colloidal (or suspended) in the liquid. They can lose their charge more quickly when exposed to strong electromagnetic fields.
 

rob333

Well-Known Member
He most certainly is. :blsmoke:


The burning is normal with most store-bought colloidal silver sprays. You plant doesn't look that bad, though. It should be fine, and you should be able to get some pollen. The thing with burned plants is that you can't really be sure if they produced pollen sacs because of the CS doing its work, or if they changed because they are stressed.

To go along with what @xtsho said, you also may not get as much pollen as you would with a genetic male, but you should be able to extract more than enough, either way. I am inclined to believe that a stress-induced flower change would likely be less complete than one induced by CS, but that's just speculation, because I haven't run any comparison experiments, myself.

Let us know how it works for you!
lies your a clone
 
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hawse

Well-Known Member
Hey thanks for this thread, I've been trying for a long time to get store bought to work, and got like one seed from stress ha ha. I'm making my own as we speak. However question, sorry if it's been asked before, I have a small throwaway plant that I've been spraying with store bought silver, it's starting week 3 flower now with lots of small flowers, not a male part to be found. But once I make this homemade silver, can I still spray this 3 week flower plant and get it to covert, or should I just start over with another clone? I'm wanting to make seeds of this same strain that I have cloned, so either seeding up the throwaway plant or collecting pollen are both options... Thanks!
 

Poontanger

Well-Known Member
If I have 2 seeds I wish to cross , I pop 1 seed, to be the CS recieptent (male)…...how long should I wait to plant the female of the X so its flowers are at there peak to take pollen , when the pollen is at its peak
ive read that selfing isn't the best timing because the female flowers are ready , but the pollen sacks arnt quite , so by the time the pollen is ready for use , the female flowers have passed there prime & don't yield as many seeds, so by planting the female later , im hoping to get both plants at there peak for seed production, any idea how many days or weeks to stagger the initial plantings ??
 

EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
lies your a clone
Ravioli,
Ravioli,
Give me the formuoli.
Hey thanks for this thread, I've been trying for a long time to get store bought to work, and got like one seed from stress ha ha. I'm making my own as we speak. However question, sorry if it's been asked before, I have a small throwaway plant that I've been spraying with store bought silver, it's starting week 3 flower now with lots of small flowers, not a male part to be found. But once I make this homemade silver, can I still spray this 3 week flower plant and get it to covert, or should I just start over with another clone? I'm wanting to make seeds of this same strain that I have cloned, so either seeding up the throwaway plant or collecting pollen are both options... Thanks!
It wouldn't really hurt, to try, would it? The plant has already been sprayed during flower, so it isn't smokable anymore.
If I have 2 seeds I wish to cross , I pop 1 seed, to be the CS recieptent (male)…...how long should I wait to plant the female of the X so its flowers are at there peak to take pollen , when the pollen is at its peak
ive read that selfing isn't the best timing because the female flowers are ready , but the pollen sacks arnt quite , so by the time the pollen is ready for use , the female flowers have passed there prime & don't yield as many seeds, so by planting the female later , im hoping to get both plants at there peak for seed production, any idea how many days or weeks to stagger the initial plantings ??
I'd give it 3 weeks. The sprayed plant should be covered with pollen sacs, by the time the seed parent plant is flowering. If you start getting pollen early, you can always store some. Just dry it out, thoroughly, and freeze it,
 

hawse

Well-Known Member
Ravioli,
Ravioli,
Give me the formuoli.

It wouldn't really hurt, to try, would it? The plant has already been sprayed during flower, so it isn't smokable anymore.

I'd give it 3 weeks. The sprayed plant should be covered with pollen sacs, by the time the seed parent plant is flowering. If you start getting pollen early, you can always store some. Just dry it out, thoroughly, and freeze it,
Yeah, I'm giving it a go, we'll see!
 

Poontanger

Well-Known Member
If I just want to pollinate 1 flower , on a plant , & I use a small brush to paint the pollen on, how many times , should I apply the pollen to the flower , & is there any precautions I should take , so as to not pollinate another flower

Poon
 

EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
Yeah, I'm giving it a go, we'll see!
Good luck! Keep us posted!
If I just want to pollinate 1 flower , on a plant , & I use a small brush to paint the pollen on, how many times , should I apply the pollen to the flower , & is there any precautions I should take , so as to not pollinate another flower

Poon
One flower, or one bud?

Either way, you can bag the flower, mist the rest of the plant with water, unbag the flower, pollinate it, and then repeat the bagging and misting process. The moisture will kill any stray pollen that gets wet. If you wet the flower that you are pollinating, it will kill that pollen, though, so be careful. Once the pistils have shriveled (sign of pollination), you can mist that flower, and it'll be fine.

I would apply the pollen at least twice, to the healthiest pistils you can find. Then check it for the next few days, to see if the pistils shirvel up and turn brown/orange.
 

hawse

Well-Known Member
Good luck! Keep us posted!

One flower, or one bud?

Either way, you can bag the flower, mist the rest of the plant with water, unbag the flower, pollinate it, and then repeat the bagging and misting process. The moisture will kill any stray pollen that gets wet. If you wet the flower that you are pollinating, it will kill that pollen, though, so be careful. Once the pistils have shriveled (sign of pollination), you can mist that flower, and it'll be fine.

I would apply the pollen at least twice, to the healthiest pistils you can find. Then check it for the next few days, to see if the pistils shirvel up and turn brown/orange.
Hey bumping and old thread, but it's kinda funny, after spraying for about two weeks on my throw away plant that was in week 3 of flower, I gave up after not seeing a change and just let it sit unwatered for a while because I was going to destroy it. But wouldn't you know, after I chopped and looked, I indeed had made it flip, saw a couple of small places where proper pollen pods were growing instead of flowers. Pretty cool. So no, i didn't get what I need yet, but I confirmed my homemade silver will work with this strain, so yay! Got a new clone vegging now, will probably end up doing just one branch of this one...
 

EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
Hey bumping and old thread, but it's kinda funny, after spraying for about two weeks on my throw away plant that was in week 3 of flower, I gave up after not seeing a change and just let it sit unwatered for a while because I was going to destroy it. But wouldn't you know, after I chopped and looked, I indeed had made it flip, saw a couple of small places where proper pollen pods were growing instead of flowers. Pretty cool. So no, i didn't get what I need yet, but I confirmed my homemade silver will work with this strain, so yay! Got a new clone vegging now, will probably end up doing just one branch of this one...
How often did you spray? I'd do it 2-3x daily.
 

jrGrow420

Active Member
you can make ur own with silver bullion bars off ebay, battery acid stuff i dunno how they do it tho.


youtube vid made it look easy
 
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