How much PPM solution !!?? Thanks so much

G

grower411

Active Member
so I have a blue lab truncheon that allows me to measure in 500 tds and 700 tds scale.

Before this I’ve been making my solution by direction. Now I have a large container and this meter.

At first my reading was 200ppm and so I added 12 more tsp of bloom nutes from general organic grow box. Then it was 400 ppm . I am told I should have it at 1200 in late flowering.

So should I keep adding more bloom and big bud etc etc? Until 1200 ppm ?
 
What stage of flowering are you in and what sort of system are you using. Are you using RO?

Personally I never go above 1000 ppm even with my heaviest feeders. I typically go:
Clones seedlings: 50- 125 ppm
Early veg: 150- 250 ppm
Mid veg: 400- 500 ppm
Late veg/ start of flower: 700-900 ppm
Mid/ late flower: 800 ppm
And then I'll cut down the nutes the last few days gradually and run just water for a couple days.

My ratios are more or less 75 percent base nutes, 15 percent cal mag and then about 10 percent micro nutrient.

I'll cut down the base about 10 percent and add some bud solution in stead the last 3 or 4 weeks. Not necessary and I'm not sure it even makes a difference but I have the stuff so may as well use it.

Hope this gives you a rough idea at least. 1200 is too high imo. Maybe mid to late flower you can push it a bit but watch for mute burn.
 
@DangerDavez thanks! Yeah I checked the ppm and ph of my run off after mixing a locution T 400ppm that I wanted st 800 in a 5 gallon jug. So I kept adding bloom nuts, buds nutes, carbo load, cal mag until it reached 800. Majority is bloom and bud nutes.

Anyhow I put to much in and the run off was 1600ppm and ph was below 4 3 weeks left to flower. So I flushed the shit out of them until ph was around 6 and nutes belower 1.2 ec
 
I hope flushing with 7 gallons of water doesn’t stop the roots from getting oxygen . @DangerDavez how do I know when these are ripe for the picking? I can’t tell using a micro escape and the cloudy/clear/Amber trichomes
 

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Those aren't ready yet. I'd say you got another couple weeks left. Once the trichs turn amber you'll see it. General rule is that you want 30 percent or so be amber.

This is soil?
 
I run my seedlings at 700 PPM, and by the time their at 4 weeks their at 1000.
I finish at 1500.
Here are some pics of 5 week plants running at 1100.

IMG_20190408_193028454_HDR.jpg IMG_20190412_133929888_HDR.jpg IMG_20190408_193045359_HDR.jpg



grower411 said:
so I have a blue lab truncheon that allows me to measure in 500 tds and 700 tds scale.

Before this I’ve been making my solution by direction. Now I have a large container and this meter.

At first my reading was 200ppm and so I added 12 more tsp of bloom nutes from general organic grow box. Then it was 400 ppm . I am told I should have it at 1200 in late flowering.

So should I keep adding more bloom and big bud etc etc? Until 1200 ppm ?
Click to expand...
Yes, if hydro
No, if soil, don't go above 700 due to buildup of nute/salts in the soil
 
@Jimdamick so my goal is to have a hydro system with auto feeding system, so I can spend less time of that aspect . I grew hydro once, they grew healthy (didn’t get to flowering) but the roots were all yuck and slime and brown and I wasn’t not sure if that’s normal?

But soils is not the medium I wish to use if I can help it. And I am a fast study
 
grower411 said:
@Jimdamick so my goal is to have a hydro system with auto feeding system, so I can spend less time of that aspect . I grew hydro once, they grew healthy (didn’t get to flowering) but the roots were all yuck and slime and brown and I wasn’t not sure if that’s normal?

But soils is not the medium I wish to use if I can help it. And I am a fast study
Click to expand...
I use a modified Waterfarm that I made into a RDWC with a 27 gal res. It has a drip, so the water is constantly being aeriated, with is imperative to stop root rot.
You probably didn't have enough air in your bucket.
I only fill the res every other day and adjust, so once you get the hang of it is much better than soil.
If you want more info on hydro, pm me and maybe I could help

5 weeks left.jpg 5 weeks right.jpg IMG_20190408_193012119_HDR.jpg
 
Jimdamick said:
I use a modified Waterfarm that I made into a RDWC with a 27 gal res. It has a drip, so the water is constantly being aeriated, with is imperative to stop root rot.
You probably didn't have enough air in your bucket.
I only fill the res every other day and adjust, so once you get the hang of it is much better than soil.
If you want more info on hydro, pm me and maybe I could help

View attachment 4320597 View attachment 4320598 View attachment 4320599
Click to expand...


I did pm you , maybe I did it wrong. I don’t know how to navigate these forums. People get so angry because I’m asking questions that are posted somewhere.
 
grower411 said:
so I have a blue lab truncheon that allows me to measure in 500 tds and 700 tds scale.

Before this I’ve been making my solution by direction. Now I have a large container and this meter.

At first my reading was 200ppm and so I added 12 more tsp of bloom nutes from general organic grow box. Then it was 400 ppm . I am told I should have it at 1200 in late flowering.

So should I keep adding more bloom and big bud etc etc? Until 1200 ppm ?
Click to expand...
PPM does not matter for shit .......i had ppm up in the 4000 range

what matters is the water temp and the amount of roots (the plant that was in the 4000+ ppm had a root mass that displaced 1 and half gallons of water in a 4 gallon DWC)

the bigger the root mass the more u can offer it .....just know if u offer it like that it will increase the plants over all grow time ......(i did it on auto flower it ran for 110 days compared to the normal 70 days )
 
Jimdamick said:
In hydro it sure as shit matters.
I use a Greenlee tester and it's range only goes up to 2000, so I don't even know of a meter that ranges that high, but I'll bet my ass that if you run ANY plant at 4000 PPM for 2 weeks, they will be fucking toast.
Click to expand...
https://www.rollitup.org/t/call-it-...llcome-autoflowering-strain-gone-nutz.764237/

the only trouble was it grew into the light hence the bleached tops on 2 of the colas ......notes and pics
ppm can be high as u want if u account for the PHing and water replacement .......by the end of it i was doing a gallon a day and 6 PHing

i repeated the experiment 3 times so far (most likely will again once build a RDWC with res)
that was the first time (blue mammoth)
the 2nd the water was way to hot for too long cooked the root mass to shit ....so i killed it off would never have the time to build mass (thc bomb)
3rd the plant hermied but i have had trouble with that strain pushing it to long ....but the yield was still way over what strain called for ....think it was 17 oz with 16 sellable last was to fluffy (narcotherapy)

yes i am insane and have crazy ideas but i done the leg work to know the shit i am talking about ......i like to work with auto flowers since they react so much faster then photos i can actually judge what works and what does not .....i have applied the skills i learned from that on here and my own grow in OR .....i know what i am doing

in hydro the only things that matters
1 water temp.... 65f
2 PH 5.8
if u want to know the best mix of feed products i can tell u ........and this was all because i made a mistake and did drain to waste at the start of life and tho the first 2 weeks ....then i started going off track
 
grower411 said:
so I have a blue lab truncheon that allows me to measure in 500 tds and 700 tds scale.

Before this I’ve been making my solution by direction. Now I have a large container and this meter.

At first my reading was 200ppm and so I added 12 more tsp of bloom nutes from general organic grow box. Then it was 400 ppm . I am told I should have it at 1200 in late flowering.

So should I keep adding more bloom and big bud etc etc? Until 1200 ppm ?
Click to expand...


PPM meters can't read organic nutes so forget about that. They only read inorganic salts as they conduct electricity. Hence the EC name. Electrical Conductivity. Your 400ppm reading is worth nothing. The potential salts once fed upon by bacteria and fungi in the soil could be many times more than that or even less.

I've done hydro for decades and was totally surprised with my recent foray into real organic growing to see sure signs of nute burn. Got some newly rooted clones from a buddy and put them into 2L pots of 75% Promix HP and the rest sheep manure, steer manure and EWS with added myco to get the bio-herd going well. Was doing great then I fed them some water with 1Tbsp of unsulfered blackstrap molasses and 2 Tbsp of seaweed ferts in 2L of water. 2 days later I got obvious nute burn on some upper leaves of two strains. Not bad and not progressing so will just water with RO next time and it should be OK.

PPM-EC-CF8x11.jpg
 
Oh yeah.

I found a great spot to download FREE POT BOOKS. I downloaded a grow bible first and got lots more. Books look great and complete like the real ones I have here. No web site but just a page of links. Just right click on what you want and then "Save Link As" to download so they don't open first as some are 50+ megs. They got lots. Enjoy.
 
Think of a meter like a thermometer. If you kid is sick you take their temperature to diagnoses them but you don’t take their temp every morning before you feed them. Volume of nutes to volume of water is simpler and often more realiable measure. If your plants start showing nute burn bust out the meter so you can take an initial level and adjust down.
 
Feed EC doesn’t even matter that much, root zone EC is what matters and that is affected by feed in but also watering frequency, flush volume and most importantly are you feeding the plant nutes it actually needs. Not worth stressing over feed EC that much. You can burn a plant with 1,500 PPM feed of the wrong nutes a lot faster than with a 2,500 ppm feed of the right nutes
 
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