A Guide To Colloidal Silver

TrippleDip

TrippleDip

Well-Known Member
Is there a point where it's too early to spray a plant? pic is the clone in question, pot is 4.5", plant is 3". Basically I'm wondering I can flip it now and still get enough pollen to polinate a few flowers? It's mother is about a week from switching to 12/12.
 

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Apical Bud

Well-Known Member
I dissolved silver bullion in citric acid. It's one of the few safe acids that will dissolve silver to concentrations high enough to flip plants. Sprayed one branch one time during the flip and a month later it was covered in pollen sacks. I didn't use the pollen so I don't know if it was viable, but the sacs looked well developed.
 
rshackleferd

rshackleferd

Well-Known Member
Excellent post however there are a few things i like to point out,

1. Cs does not degrade, it stays CS for years if stored away from light

2. Most TDS meters will not correctly measure CS past 30 ppm

3. Depending on your power source, type of silver "wire, coin, etc", mixing, heat, and etc. ppms can rise fast after 45 minutes to an hour after the reaction starts.
 
mastrmasn

mastrmasn

Well-Known Member
I realize this post is old but I need help if someone can chime in. Made some CS with 4 9v batteries. 4 hours later this is what I have. There sediment at the bottom. 20190603_232029.jpg
 
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EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
rshackleferd said:
Excellent post however there are a few things i like to point out,

1. Cs does not degrade, it stays CS for years if stored away from light

2. Most TDS meters will not correctly measure CS past 30 ppm

3. Depending on your power source, type of silver "wire, coin, etc", mixing, heat, and etc. ppms can rise fast after 45 minutes to an hour after the reaction starts.
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Thank you!

1. You'll also want to store it in glass to avoid static.

2. This is true. While it isn't even necessary to go past a 30ppm TDS meter reading, TDS meters are probably best used as a consistency check rather than a literal TDS readout. The laser pointer test is very effective. That said, do exercise caution using lasers around reflective material like glass, because you don't want them shinning into your eye.

3. Perhaps if you use silver with a greater surfac area, and/or a stronger power source, you can get it done more quickly, but I don't know if that is the best option, at least not the latter option.

mastrmasn said:
I realize this post is old but I need help if someone can chime in. Made some CS with 4 9v batteries. 4 hours later this is what I have. There sediment at the bottom. View attachment 4344781
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Strain that through 2 coffee filters (2-ply, not two separate times), and post what it looks like. Also, did you use distilled water, and what was your silver source?
 
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EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
TrippleDip said:
Is there a point where it's too early to spray a plant? pic is the clone in question, pot is 4.5", plant is 3". Basically I'm wondering I can flip it now and still get enough pollen to polinate a few flowers? It's mother is about a week from switching to 12/12.
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I don't think there would be a problem with starting early, since CS doesn't stunt a healthy Cannabis plant, however you don't get the chance to see if the plant was going to put out both male and female flowers or even pre-flowers before spraying, and that is a trait that you would want to avid breeding with.
 
mastrmasn

mastrmasn

Well-Known Member
EverythingsHazy said:
Thank you!

1. You'll also want to store it in glass to avoid static.

2. This is true. While it isn't even necessary to go past a 30ppm TDS meter reading, TDS meters are probably best used as a consistency check rather than a literal TDS readout. The laser pointer test is very effective. That said, do exercise caution using lasers around reflective material like glass, because you don't want them shinning into your eye.

3. Perhaps if you use silver with a greater surfac area, and/or a stronger power source, you can get it done more quickly, but I don't know if that is the best option, at least not the latter option.


Strain that through 2 coffee filters (2-ply, not two separate times), and post what it looks like. Also, did you use distilled water, and what was your silver source?
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That's what I will do. After it settles overnight it's an amber color. The silver came from the mint.
 
TrippleDip

TrippleDip

Well-Known Member
EverythingsHazy said:
I don't think there would be a problem with starting early, since CS doesn't stunt a healthy Cannabis plant, however you don't get the chance to see if the plant was going to put out both male and female flowers or even pre-flowers before spraying, and that is a trait that you would want to avid breeding with.
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Thanks for the reply, was more wondering if
1) flipping such a small/unestablished plant would delay flowering enough that it would be too late to pollinate older plants that had been switched at the same time. Especially given that in a perfect world you would switch your male plant to 12/12 before the female.

2) whether it would produce enough pollen to pollinate a larger plant. I know there is theoretically enough pollen, but would it be enough to collect and manually pollinate many flowers? I read about toasted flour for extending the amount, but was still doubtful.

Decided to wait and think that was the right decision.
 
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EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
TrippleDip said:
Thanks for the reply, was more wondering if
1) flipping such a small/unestablished plant would delay flowering enough that it would be too late to pollinate older plants that had been switched at the same time. Especially given that in a perfect world you would switch your male plant to 12/12 before the female.

2) whether it would produce enough pollen to pollinate a larger plant. I know there is theoretically enough pollen, but would it be enough to collect and manually pollinate many flowers? I read about toasted flour for extending the amount, but was still doubtful.

Decided to wait and think that was the right decision.
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You're welcome. In regards to Q1, I would say that it's mostly an issue of the oldest female flower pistils dying before the pollen is ready, so the entire plant might not get pollinated, but you should still be able to get a lot of flowers fertilized. That said, if you have the luxury of being able to give your pollon donor plant a headstart, it is probably in your best interest to do so. As for Q2, it really depends on how big your pollon donor plant gets. For some reason, flipped female pollen sacs don't seem to produce as much pollen as natural males, but they still produce more than enough. The flour method is something I have read about as well. If you are serious about breeding, I recommend you get a bottle of silica beads online, and some micro-centrifuge tubes to dry and freeze your pollen, so you don't have to flip so many plants, and you can backcross if you are trying to isolate a specific trait.
 
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EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
mastrmasn said:
That's what I will do. After it settles overnight it's an amber color. The silver came from the mint.
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Do you have an air-stone in the water, and do you wipe the electrodes? Those are likely the cause for the coloration.

From the OP:
Q: Why is my Colloidal Silver amber/yellow/grey colored?
A: The silver particles are slightly larger than they would be in a clear solution. They can still work for cannabis reversal, but I don't recommend ingesting the stuff. Amber/yellow is the first color you should notice. As it begins to get darker, or greyer, that means the the particles are larger and larger. The plant above was reversed with only amber Colloidal Silver as a test and it worked fine.

Q: How do I fix that color problem?
A: Add an air pump and an air stone to your generator jar, and clean the wires more often (every 30min, or when you see buildup forming). Discoloration on the wires (esp the negative electrode turning dark) is fine and expected, but if you leave it for too long you will notice that more and more silver particles build up on the negative electrode and start breaking off and floating around your mixture causing it to be cloudy and lower quality.
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EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
Apical Bud said:
I dissolved silver bullion in citric acid. It's one of the few safe acids that will dissolve silver to concentrations high enough to flip plants. Sprayed one branch one time during the flip and a month later it was covered in pollen sacks. I didn't use the pollen so I don't know if it was viable, but the sacs looked well developed.
Click to expand...
What was your procedure and chemical amounts/concentrations?
 
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Apical Bud

Well-Known Member
EverythingsHazy said:
What was your procedure and chemical amounts/concentrations?
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It was years ago and I wrote all the info down on the bottle in which I stored it, but that bottle now has other writing on it, too, so I don't know for sure.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2590638/ I believe I read this article back in the day and used it as a foundation. What I took from it was that silver will dissolve greatly in really high concentrations of citric acid. 4M citric acid is ridiculous, tough. And you don't need really high concentrations for femming.

If you look here (https://saltlakemetals.com/solubility_of_silver_compounds/) you'll see a list of silver compounds and their solubilities. As you can see, silver citrate @ 25C comes in at around 28 ppm. So if you can make a saturated silver citrate solution you can spray it directly. If 28ppm isn't enough for you, spray the plant more often.
But notice another option. I have used silver acetate, as well, and it worked. I already had a bottle of glacial acetic acid from amazon, which is what I used, so I can't tell you that vinegar would work but it might. Anyway, that solubility is 11,000 ppm, so you would have to do some light calculations to get to your target PPM. But if you add your silver to a little bit of concentrated acetic acid, then once it dissolves volume up to your target concentration you should be set.
I noticed that within a few days, and especially after a few weeks, silver precipitate appeared on the bottoms of the bottles I was storing solutions in.

http://lanthanumkchemistry.over-blog.com/article-the-dissolving-of-silver-101897019.html
https://saltlakemetals.com/solubility_of_silver_compounds/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2590638/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Citric_acid
 
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EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
Apical Bud said:
It was years ago and I wrote all the info down on the bottle in which I stored it, but that bottle now has other writing on it, too, so I don't know for sure.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2590638/ I believe I read this article back in the day and used it as a foundation. What I took from it was that silver will dissolve greatly in really high concentrations of citric acid. 4M citric acid is ridiculous, tough. And you don't need really high concentrations for femming.

If you look here (https://saltlakemetals.com/solubility_of_silver_compounds/) you'll see a list of silver compounds and their solubilities. As you can see, silver citrate @ 25C comes in at around 28 ppm. So if you can make a saturated silver citrate solution you can spray it directly. If 28ppm isn't enough for you, spray the plant more often.
But notice another option. I have used silver acetate, as well, and it worked. I already had a bottle of glacial acetic acid from amazon, which is what I used, so I can't tell you that vinegar would work but it might. Anyway, that solubility is 11,000 ppm, so you would have to do some light calculations to get to your target PPM. But if you add your silver to a little bit of concentrated acetic acid, then once it dissolves volume up to your target concentration you should be set.
I noticed that within a few days, and especially after a few weeks, silver precipitate appeared on the bottoms of the bottles I was storing solutions in.

http://lanthanumkchemistry.over-blog.com/article-the-dissolving-of-silver-101897019.html
https://saltlakemetals.com/solubility_of_silver_compounds/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2590638/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Citric_acid
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Great info. Thank you. I will do some research on those. I've only really studied colloidal/ionic silver, so far.
 
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