Magicole
Member
Starting off, I feel confident in the way I grow and I’ve gotten feed back that tells me so. Although I’m sound cocky I understand that I always have room for improvement. As long as I feel that you are able to provide evidence that is justifiable I will change my ways. I’ve created this thread to see what other people think about “common” grow lights.
Following will be statements on how I feel lights not only spread light but what lights do best in different situations and plant stages. Also keeping in mind that this is close to if not optimal and unique situations call for unique solutions. One last thing this is for indoors only, not greenhouses or utility, keeping the light cycle in check.
Tube light (t5s, t8s, and t12s)
Double ended (600w&750w, 1000w)
Due to the complexity of this conversation I’m going to break it up as much as I can while staying somewhat simple.
If you made it this far then I would love to hear what your two cents is!
Following will be statements on how I feel lights not only spread light but what lights do best in different situations and plant stages. Also keeping in mind that this is close to if not optimal and unique situations call for unique solutions. One last thing this is for indoors only, not greenhouses or utility, keeping the light cycle in check.
Tube light (t5s, t8s, and t12s)
- I wouldn’t use t8s or t12s
- T5s are great for clones, seedlings, and small vegging plants
- I wouldn’t flower under these light
- I would however keep medium sized mothers under these (3 feet or smaller)
- 2” to 6” from canopy
- 400w
- I feel do good in a 4’by4’ in veg and a 3’by3’ for flower
- I wouldn’t use in any multiple light applications
- 12” to 18” from canopy
- I am under the impression these are used extensively outside of the United States
- A 6’by6’ in veg and a 4’by4’ in flower
- For multiple light applications that the flower footprints increases to a 5’by5’ on interior lights. I would checkerboard metal halide’s and high-pressure sodium’s.
- 18” to 24” from canopy
- A 6’by6’ in veg and a 5’by5’ in flower
- Again if used in a multiple light application the foot print increases to a 6’by6’ on interior lights. I also checkerboard.
- 18” to 30” from canopy
Double ended (600w&750w, 1000w)
- 600w&750w
- They need 24” from canopy
- Can’t be truly be air-cooled
- Comparable to single ended 1000w
- They run hot
- You need 3’ from canopy
- Cover 6’by6’ footprint all day
- They are ~25% brighter then single ended 1000w bulbs
- Can’t be truly be air-cooled
- Superior light penetration
- 315w
- Covers a 3’by3’ area 4’by4’ if using two bulbs in a single hood
- 12” to 24” from canopy
- Great balanced spectrum for veg and flower
- For the wattage and some special cases only way to go
- Can cover a 4’by4’ some hoods(sun systems) 4’by5’
- 12” to 24” from canopy
- Again great spectrum
- Definitely proof that lights are changing and for the better!
Due to the complexity of this conversation I’m going to break it up as much as I can while staying somewhat simple.
- Bar LED’s
- Great for clones, seedlings, and small vegging plants
- I have found they work extremely well as supplemental lighting and increasing the spectrum of the room
- Would work good for mothers as long and you train the plant around the light pattern.
- 6” to 12” from canopy
- These lights tend to have a hot spot under them and have an exponential drop in light levels to the sides. These I’ve experienced have better penetration then “wide spread” LED’s
- If kept far enough from canopy most 4’by4’ no matter what the Company states. Up to 6’by6’ in multiple light applications
- Depend on light 12” to 30” from canopy
- Because the way I think LED’s work (like a light laser) I’ve seen that these do have a better footprint vs the brick LED’s.
- For overall footprint depending on fixture size 6” from edges
- 6” to 18” from canopy
If you made it this far then I would love to hear what your two cents is!
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