DIY with Quantum Boards

Blossom21

Blossom21

Active Member
pop22 said:
Kingbrite does have a fairly good rep, doesn't mean they can't get swindled. I hope I'm wrong, but on the other hand, this is why I buy from HLG, I don't have to even consider such a thing, on top of all the other benefits of buying their products. I'll see if I can't find that thread, I recalled it because I seem to remember him having similar voltages. And I have also noticed that many of the chinese boards that claim they are using Samsung chips are using the LM301H, not the 301B. Don't know they difference need to look it up.
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Yeah these should be LM301B diodes, and they sure do exactly look like them when i compare the pictures. Not sure how would i confirm that otherwise. Sure i still could run these boards with higher amperage and get easily over 130W per board even if the voltage was lower, or just run them softer like i planned to even before ordering. Not sure how much my multimeter is off, need to do some more testing. Still would like to know what's up with the voltage (low bin diodes or how the boards are made?), personally i have no idea but they at least seem to operate and put out more wattage than advertised, hope i get to figure this out :roll:

Someone told me this is completely normal and that the numbers are nothing to worry about, also MW drivers going over the specs is normal (at least with a type drivers). So maybe i worry about nothing.
 
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City17

Member
Blossom21 said:
Yeah these should be LM301B diodes, and they sure do exactly look like them when i compare the pictures. Not sure how would i confirm that otherwise. Sure i still could run these boards with higher amperage and get easily over 130W per board even if the voltage was lower, or just run them softer like i planned to even before ordering. Not sure how much my multimeter is off, need to do some more testing. Still would like to know what's up with the voltage (low bin diodes or how the boards are made?), personally i have no idea but they at least seem to operate and put out more wattage than advertised, hope i get to figure this out :roll:

Someone told me this is completely normal and that the numbers are nothing to worry about, also MW drivers going over the specs is normal (at least with a type drivers). So maybe i worry about nothing.
Click to expand...
As long as you got enough heatsink/cooling you "should" be able to run em at 130w but i wouldnt push too much above that.... if you cant hold your hand on the heatsink for 5 seconds its on the hotside of things and i would either add airflow or dim the lights.... for full power i would just set your lights to run at 290w per driver on your watt meter........... your driver is 91% efficient so 290w x 0.91 = 264 watts going to 2 boards.... and yeah meanwell A's usually can go above rated wattage
 
pop22

pop22

Well-Known Member
All of my B model drives have some headroom too, A 320H-C2100b pulls 363 at the wall, so 344 at the boards.


City17 said:
As long as you got enough heatsink/cooling you "should" be able to run em at 130w but i wouldnt push too much above that.... if you cant hold your hand on the heatsink for 5 seconds its on the hotside of things and i would either add airflow or dim the lights.... for full power i would just set your lights to run at 290w per driver on your watt meter........... your driver is 91% efficient so 290w x 0.91 = 264 watts going to 2 boards.... and yeah meanwell A's usually can go above rated wattage
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Moflow

Moflow

Well-Known Member
I put the par meter under the HLG 550 V1 and the Scope 240, both of which are running at 200 wall watts each.
I wanted around 1000 on the par meter. 4 x 4 tent.
To achieve this the lights are now set at 16" from the canopy.
There's about 3 weeks stretch to go on the plants so obviously I'll have to raise the lights over this period.
There's the usual drop off in photons the corners, around 500 - 600 on the par meter which is to be expected.
The lights are wall to wall from left to right as you look into tent. There is a gap of approximately 1ft from back edge of tent to the lights and also 1ft gap at front of tent, if that makes sense.
You can see why 4ft Strips would have a far better, more even spread of light over a 4 x 4 area. I'm a great believer in wall to wall lighting.
 
daveybc

daveybc

Well-Known Member
If I were to do a 4x4 I would buy 6 qb288 singles and install 3 on angled aluminum and space them out. have 2 fixtures ( 3 boards each ). Having multiple singles I think is better than a double or triple heatsinks. Use like 2 HLG 320H drivers or 3 HLG 240H C2100. Having 3 drivers allows better redundancy in case of driver failure. As well the drivers can be turned down. Mount drivers remotely, better to keep the heat out of the tent ( unless of coarse you need the heat ). I have found some drivers as the 240h c2100 can get quite hot without air movement cranked up. Also you wouldn't knock your head on the fixture bending into ( more like " out of " ) the canopy for maintenance.

Moflow said:
I put the par meter under the HLG 550 V1 and the Scope 240, both of which are running at 200 wall watts each.
I wanted around 1000 on the par meter. 4 x 4 tent.
To achieve this the lights are now set at 16" from the canopy.
There's about 3 weeks stretch to go on the plants so obviously I'll have to raise the lights over this period.
There's the usual drop off in photons the corners, around 500 - 600 on the par meter which is to be expected.
The lights are wall to wall from left to right as you look into tent. There is a gap of approximately 1ft from back edge of tent to the lights and also 1ft gap at front of tent, if that makes sense.
You can see why 4ft Strips would have a far better, more even spread of light over a 4 x 4 area. I'm a great believer in wall to wall lighting.
Click to expand...
 
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daveybc

daveybc

Well-Known Member
I don't think its recommended to mix and match boards to a driver. You can add reds to your current setup. QB 11 QB 18.

QUOTE="Lund-o, post: 15077358, member: 1002286"]Is it worth upgrading my HLG 600H qb288 v2 3000k to the Rspec? Can they be mixed and matched?[/QUOTE]
 
daveybc

daveybc

Well-Known Member
Rather than a 550 fixture why not 12 QB 132 on 3 240 watt drivers. Low cost without heatsinks. I saw HLG had the 4000K qb132 V2 on Amazon for $100 for 4, 132 boards. They sold that deal pretty quick and apparently will be getting more. They still have the regular price though $135 or so.

daveybc said:
If I were to do a 4x4 I would buy 6 qb288 singles and install 3 on angled aluminum and space them out. have 2 fixtures ( 3 boards each ). Having multiple singles I think is better than a double or triple heatsinks. Use like 2 HLG 320H drivers or 3 HLG 240H C2100. Having 3 drivers allows better redundancy in case of driver failure. As well the drivers can be turned down. Mount drivers remotely, better to keep the heat out of the tent ( unless of coarse you need the heat ). I have found some drivers as the 240h c2100 can get quite hot without air movement cranked up. Also you wouldn't knock your head on the fixture bending into the canopy for maintenance.
Click to expand...
 
Stephenj37826

Stephenj37826

Well-Known Member
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botman

Member
Hi there, some advice needed.
I bought the QB132 V2 combo a while back and finally managed to get things together... except no light!
I have a meanwell HLG 320h-36a PSU with the intention of running them at 65watts each for a total of 280 wired in series. I've screwed all four qboards onto a piece of aluminum (hlg say they don't require cooling but I figured it can't hurt).
At first I thought the boards were faulty, but when I connect only one board at a time to the PSU, all four seem work. If I try to connect even 2 then I get nothing, regardless which two, I've wired them like it says on the hlg website, positive to positive and negative to negative from the psu to the first qboard, and then positive to negative between qb's. I've tried both multi strand and single core wires, same or larger gauge than recommended... can't think of anything else. Maybe parallel wiring but I'm not sure how to do that... any ideas?
 

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Isawthelight

Isawthelight

Well-Known Member
botman said:
Hi there, some advice needed.
I bought the QB132 V2 combo a while back and finally managed to get things together... except no light!
I have a meanwell HLG 320h-36a PSU with the intention of running them at 65watts each for a total of 280 wired in series. I've screwed all four qboards onto a piece of aluminum (hlg say they don't require cooling but I figured it can't hurt).
At first I thought the boards were faulty, but when I connect only one board at a time to the PSU, all four seem work. If I try to connect even 2 then I get nothing, regardless which two, I've wired them like it says on the hlg website, positive to positive and negative to negative from the psu to the first qboard, and then positive to negative between qb's. I've tried both multi strand and single core wires, same or larger gauge than recommended... can't think of anything else. Maybe parallel wiring but I'm not sure how to do that... any ideas?
Click to expand...
https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-415-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B07CN5974J/ref=pd_sbs_23_20?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07CN5974J&pd_rd_r=a0cd91fc-8c80-4932-802b-d99b8367c72e&pd_rd_w=P41Af&pd_rd_wg=cMYfW&pf_rd_p=d66372fe-68a6-48a3-90ec-41d7f64212be&pf_rd_r=RVZMBCCQR2SG6ZRJXR6J&psc=1&refRID=RVZMBCCQR2SG6ZRJXR6J

You need two Wago 222-415 lever-nut connectors. These connectors make are excellent for wiring 4 panels in parallel. All the + go to one connector and all the - go to the other connector..
 
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botman

Member
Thanks, I'll get some of those (probably get delivered in a month or so as I'm remote)..
The thing is according to the website they should work in series too although they recommend a less powerful PSU (hlg240)... hopefully parallel will solve it.
 
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