Soil Assistance

mansala

Member
Hello all! I just started my first grow in Roots Organic Micro-Greens seedling mix in solo cups. I plan to transplant these into 2 gallon fabric pots once big enough making use of Roots Organic Original Potting Soil. I was told that I wont need to add nutrients as the soil will provide it all. I'm a bit skeptical of that and would like some suggestions on what do prior to transplanting? Shall I mix the Original Potting Soil with any other dry amendments to better assist the slow release nutrients provided?

Here is info on the Micro Greens:
phagnum Peat Moss, Perlite, Coco Fiber, Hypnum Peat Moss, Leonardite, Dolomite (pH adjuster), Feather Meal, Non-GMO Soybean Meal, Volcanic Rock Dust, Fish Meal, Bat Guano, Volcanic Ash, Greensand, Yucca Powder (Yucca schidigera), and Kelp Meal. Also contains beneficial microbes: Funneliformis mosseae, Rhizophagus intraradices, Septoglomus desertícola to enhance uptake of plant nutrients, increase roots biomass, and help container grown plants resist stress

And the Original Potting Soil:
Perlite, Coco Fiber, Peat Moss, Composted Forest Material, Pumice, Worm Castings, Bat Guano, Soybean Meal, Alfalfa Meal, Fish Bone Meal, Kelp Meal, and Greensand. Also contains beneficial microbes: Funneliformis mosseae, Rhizophagus intraradices, Septoglomus desertícola to enhance uptake of plant nutrients, increase roots biomass, and help container grown plants resist stress


I want to keep things simple throughout the grow with just water and occasional tea I may brew. Any suggestions to the soil would help!

Thanks!
 

4ftRoots

Well-Known Member
Depends on your final pot size. If you're ending in something over 20 gallons the soil could supply everything, depending on how good the soil is. Since your organic you can add mix in more amendments as long as they aren't hot.

Seems like everything may already be composted(cooked) so you might be safe adding it. But i'm not familiar with those mixes so thats really all I can say.

Check the sticky ROLS thread for the best amendments to have on hand. Bottom of first page posted by Cann.
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
You can always add worm castings and you should. Adding a form of compost will keep the mix highly active for much longer than without it. If you want to ensure the plants will be sustained through the whole grow consider a slow release fertilizer like manure or an organic spike. I put a handful of Charlie's compost and 2 Jobes organic AP spikes in each final size container just before bloom phase. Feeds for 8 weeks.
 

mansala

Member
You can always add worm castings and you should. Adding a form of compost will keep the mix highly active for much longer than without it. If you want to ensure the plants will be sustained through the whole grow consider a slow release fertilizer like manure or an organic spike. I put a handful of Charlie's compost and 2 Jobes organic AP spikes in each final size container just before bloom phase. Feeds for 8 weeks.
Thank you! At what ratio do you recommend I put in the charlies compost/jobes per 1.5cf?

Is this what you use:


I plan to pot in 3 gallon pots right before flower and leave them there till harvest.
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
Yes and yes...Try to larger than 3gal if you can but just one spike per small container will be ok. I put two in each 10gal pot. They are mild npk and slow release; nearly impossible to burn plants. Just plug them in about an inch from the outside diameter of your pot. They work best at transplants so the roots grow in around them.
Charlie's chicken manure is kind of hot fertilizer so you don't need much. For a small container i would use maybe about 1/2 cup per and mix it into the soil real good before you transplant. I sort of layer it in the bottom and cover lightly with soil. Doesn't have to be deadly accurate: For a 10 gal pot I put in a handful or 2. If you don't use granular mycorrhizae get some asap and sprinkle it in the hole when you transplant. Place the root ball directly in contact with it. It will adhere to the roots through symbiosis and assist with absorbtion. Then fill in the container and mulch. The plants will pray to you in homage.
 

mansala

Member
Yes and yes...Try to larger than 3gal if you can but just one spike per small container will be ok. I put two in each 10gal pot. They are mild npk and slow release; nearly impossible to burn plants. Just plug them in about an inch from the outside diameter of your pot. They work best at transplants so the roots grow in around them.
Charlie's chicken manure is kind of hot fertilizer so you don't need much. For a small container i would use maybe about 1/2 cup per and mix it into the soil real good before you transplant. I sort of layer it in the bottom and cover lightly with soil. Doesn't have to be deadly accurate: For a 10 gal pot I put in a handful or 2. If you don't use granular mycorrhizae get some asap and sprinkle it in the hole when you transplant. Place the root ball directly in contact with it. It will adhere to the roots through symbiosis and assist with absorbtion. Then fill in the container and mulch. The plants will pray to you in homage.
Thank you Richard Drysift for your wisdom on this matter. You've convinced me to go with 5 gal pot. Should I be watering at a specific PH? I use purified water due to the cities tap water being 300+ppm
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
No don't bother worrying about ph. The mix itself sets the ph; as long as it is active with microbial and fungal activity it should stay in the proper range for absorption.
 

ebcrew

Well-Known Member
I've seen people using microgreens in the same pot as their cannabis. I'm sure this has something to do with nutrients and/or self reliant soil. However I can't find any credible information on it online. Anyone have a link or YouTube video explaing the reasoning behind microgreens?
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
I've seen people using microgreens in the same pot as their cannabis. I'm sure this has something to do with nutrients and/or self reliant soil. However I can't find any credible information on it online. Anyone have a link or YouTube video explaing the reasoning behind microgreens?
Search around for cover crops; an old farmer technique used by no till growers. Usually alfalfa or clover; a cover crop is sprouted before you put the plants you want to grow into it. Supposed to pull the nutrients up to the higher layers of soil so when you transplant you already have a well established root system for your plant so to adhere to.
 
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