Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
The output of the hlgs tend to be about 10% mpre than the rating, allways check report section along with the datasheet.
And this is only with A type drivers. Correct?The output of the hlgs tend to be about 10% mpre than the rating, allways check report section along with the datasheet.
I feel ripped off then! my 4 320-2800s pull 11.3a total lolThe output of the hlgs tend to be about 10% mpre than the rating, allways check report section along with the datasheet.
are you talking 120V ac amps?I feel ripped off then! my 4 320-2800s pull 11.3a total lol
Oh i thought we were talking about them pulling more watts at the wall? my 4x 320-2800Bs pull 1290w total.are you talking 120V ac amps?
Im talking the dc output. And its usually only on A versions or B versions with special dimmer.
Something we've all wanted the answer to!So, according to the emails I reviewed this morning, it has become evident, that six beers, and a nice big chunk of Hazeman Mikado extract infused butterscotch, created just the right amount of inhibition, to go ahead and order 3x 96 Elite boards, and the HLG T-shirt!!!!
So getting back to what I posted several days ago, we're all going to find out how much wattage they can safely take, on CobKits 133mm pre-drilled heatsinks in the near future!!!
Im not sure but from what i understood: the hlg driver are rated lower than their actual output. However if you put a 100k dimmer on them they output spec. But with A version or if using a 110k dimmer (or a 100k with a 10k resistanse added in series) you can get at that extra current.And this is only with A type drivers. Correct?
Those OG Original 120/133/140mm round pin sinks ALL come with a standard 20mm thick base or is it only 15mm?Something we've all wanted the answer to!
Jesus Christ all 3 of em only have 10mm thick bases. Pretty sure even Meijus heatsinks are 15mm from what I've heard. And that's in a MUCH more spread heat layout and 20X the surface area a COB has.Those OG Original 120/133/140mm round pin sinks ALL come with a standard 20mm thick base or is it only 15mm?
For real though, I'm actually pumped for this what do you plan on doing with each of the 3 exactly? Throw one on a 600-54B and crank that pot up slowly but surely from 0???So, according to the emails I reviewed this morning, it has become evident, that six beers, and a nice big chunk of Hazeman Mikado extract infused butterscotch, created just the right amount of inhibition, to go ahead and order 3x 96 Elite boards, and the HLG T-shirt!!!!
So getting back to what I posted several days ago, we're all going to find out how much wattage they can safely take, on CobKits 133mm pre-drilled heatsinks in the near future!!!
I thought you couldn’t overclock the B drivers?For real though, I'm actually pumped for this what do you plan on doing with each of the 3 exactly? Throw one on a 600-54B and crank that pot up slowly but surely from 0???
What does overclocking have anything to do with this?I thought you couldn’t overclock the B drivers?
36B? They 54v right? I always thought if you ran a certain voltage LED on a CV driver it could only pull the wattage the IO curve alotted at a set voltage. If you run one 96e on a 600h-54b at 54v it want pull the whole 600w. Am I wrong?What does overclocking have anything to do with this?
You can turn the dimmer down with a wired on Pot with B driver. This will allow your one 96 on an HLG-600H-36B to run without being Instantly fried
The plan will be to run each on it's own driver. Most likely which, will end up being the XLG-150-H-AB. This way I can stay at, or under 150W each, without active cooling, with the 133mm pin heatsinks.For real though, I'm actually pumped for this what do you plan on doing with each of the 3 exactly? Throw one on a 600-54B and crank that pot up slowly but surely from 0???
Aaaaaaaawwwwwwww........ I thought you were saying you were going to see what the 96 boards could actually handle using the highly popular 133mm round pin heatsinks, that a whole Shit load of us already have.The plan will be to run each on it's own driver. Most likely which, will end up being the XLG-150-H-AB. This way I can stay at, or under 150W each, without active cooling, with the 133mm pin heatsinks.
This is the wrong place to ask as its the official Quantum board thread (horticultural light group aka HLG).So I am shopping on Kingbrite and I am torn between 2 models below. the light is for a 2x4 tent for flower. The rep Vivi said the first one is the "newest model" with UV and IR but I believe that I have read somewhere on this thread that the UV chips are not strong enough and/or burn out quickly so it was better to not have those. Does this also apply to the IR chips, are these needed or beneficial? Can anyone tell me help me make the choice as to which would be better? I plan to get either in the 3000k color temp unless otherwise advised.
Samsung lm301h+ CREE XP-E2 660nm+UV+IR qb288 Quantum Board
320w quantum board V3 samsung lm301h with CREE XP-E2 660nm red led grow light
Thanks in Advance!
oKiHai
Thank you! I have deleted the post and put it in the other thread!This is the wrong place to ask as its the official Quantum board thread (horticultural light group aka HLG).
Try here
The Chinese Quantum Board Knock Off Builds
Fixed the hotspot with no heatsink, 1.5w case fan sitting on top cools the whole light down to 0.5c above room temp.www.rollitup.org
So, according to the emails I reviewed this morning, it has become evident, that six beers, and a nice big chunk of Hazeman Mikado extract infused butterscotch, created just the right amount of inhibition, to go ahead and order 3x 96 Elite boards, and the HLG T-shirt!!!!
So getting back to what I posted several days ago, we're all going to find out how much wattage they can safely take, on CobKits 133mm pre-drilled heatsinks in the near future!!!