Bad HLG 288 V2 board or my fault

[cobshopgrow]

i sadly have no dr.meter.
good thing with the dr.meter is that a lot people using them.

i once compared the first best lux app on my Samsung S8 with a 25$ luxmeter and the spectrometer.
the s8 phone had been even more of then the 25$ luxmeter.

had another cheap luxmeter which i compared to my recent cheapo and that also gave quite different readings.

on android i havent found a good app so far.
read one user here is happy with the Korona light app for iOS, if youre a iphone user i would give that a try.
dont know of anyone having the app compared to a real par meter or spectrometer, but the description reads good.

sure if you have a baseline reading you can work from there, np, just hard to convert the values.
above could be such a example.

 

[DankTankerous]

Yeah it’s Dr. Meter

Still seems a bit low. HLGs par map for the 240 kit says 500ppfd at 24", 800 at 18". 22k lux would be around 300 and change. Is it a phone app? Its probably measuring low. Try with a proper lux meter, they are cheap enough.
With soil and organic fertilizer it can sometimes be hard for the plant to keep up with led lights. Id use them more carefully, never lower until you can see healthy growth and stop lowerin when you start to see signs of unhealthy growth (very light coloring, interveinal bleaching and purple stems and petioles).
Im not too sure how calmag works in soil, if you need to ph and all.

It’s Dr Meter. I think I might use my blurple LED’s and smaller Quantum Board. Also I should follow some QB Organics grow. Do you know if people who use Cobb’s struggle with their organic grows?

 

[DankTankerous]

Still seems a bit low. HLGs par map for the 240 kit says 500ppfd at 24", 800 at 18". 22k lux would be around 300 and change. Is it a phone app? Its probably measuring low. Try with a proper lux meter, they are cheap enough.
With soil and organic fertilizer it can sometimes be hard for the plant to keep up with led lights. Id use them more carefully, never lower until you can see healthy growth and stop lowerin when you start to see signs of unhealthy growth (very light coloring, interveinal bleaching and purple stems and petioles).
Im not too sure how calmag works in soil, if you need to ph and all.

it’s a Dr Meter. because of the intense light should I up the feeding? Does it work better with synthetics? I don’t pH, because apparently you don’t need to in Organics, but I don’t know if I completely agree with that Duke Diamond does.

btw it’s 3k board. I tried to talk to the guy at the hydro shop but he called the Quantum Boards Witchcraft boards. I have never heard that?

 

[Barristan Whitebeard]

L

it’s a Dr Meter. because of the intense light should I up the feeding? Does it work better with synthetics? I don’t pH, because apparently you don’t need to in Organics, but I don’t know if I completely agree with that Duke Diamond does.

btw it’s 3k board. I tried to talk to the guy at the hydro shop but he called the Quantum Boards Witchcraft boards. I have never heard that?

I'd love to hear the guys explanation on that one.

Do you suppose he was thinking of ouija boards?

 

[coreywebster]

it’s a Dr Meter. because of the intense light should I up the feeding? Does it work better with synthetics? I don’t pH, because apparently you don’t need to in Organics, but I don’t know if I completely agree with that Duke Diamond does.

btw it’s 3k board. I tried to talk to the guy at the hydro shop but he called the Quantum Boards Witchcraft boards. I have never heard that?

You ever plugged your QB into a kilowatt meter?
Mine pull 285w and I think 65-75000 lux with dr meter, I only use it to get a rough idea of height .

 

[DankTankerous]

You ever plugged your QB into a kilowatt meter?
Mine pull 285w and I think 65-75000 lux with dr meter, I only use it to get a rough idea of height .

I have not. I can turn it up all the way and see. I’m trying not to spend more money on this if I don’t have too

 

[DankTankerous]

L

I'd love to hear the guys explanation on that one.

Do you suppose he was thinking of ouija boards?

View attachment 4633377

You know the funny thing is, I haven’t found that phrase on the net. He must have gotten it from his friends. He did t really answer my question either. I think he was really stoned, which is fine but answer my question is all

 

[DankTankerous]

L

I'd love to hear the guys explanation on that one.

Do you suppose he was thinking of ouija boards?

View attachment 4633377

wow I finally got your joke, well done

 

[Prawn Connery]

it’s a Dr Meter. because of the intense light should I up the feeding? Does it work better with synthetics? I don’t pH, because apparently you don’t need to in Organics, but I don’t know if I completely agree with that Duke Diamond does.

btw it’s 3k board. I tried to talk to the guy at the hydro shop but he called the Quantum Boards Witchcraft boards. I have never heard that?

Soil is a much better buffer than hydro, but you can still run into pH problems in soil if your pH is way off. Cannabis prefers a slightly acidic soil, but it is fairly tolerant to neutral or slightly alkaline soils. What you have to remember is pH determines nutrient availability – which is a simple way of saying that certain elements form compounds with other elements in the presence or absence of hydroxyl ions related to pH – so when you have an excess or lack of a certain element, that excess or dearth can be exacerbated by pH.

For example, a higher pH frees up Calcium ions. If you have excess Ca and a low pH, the low pH can offset the excess. Likewise, if your soil lacks Ca but has a higher pH, more of that Ca is made available to the plant, which offsets the deficiency.

However, if your soil has excess Ca and the pH is also allowed to rise, then more and more Ca becomes available, and less and less of the other nutrients it antagonises (potassium, zinc, iron etc) is made available, leading to a deficiency.

Furthermore, it can be self-perpetuating. Adding dolomite lime increases Ca and also raises pH, further increasing the availability of Ca and impacting other nutrients.

So it's all about balance.

 

[DankTankerous]

Soil is a much better buffer than hydro, but you can still run into pH problems in soil if your pH is way off. Cannabis prefers a slightly acidic soil, but it is fairly tolerant to neutral or slightly alkaline soils. What you have to remember is pH determines nutrient availability – which is a simple way of saying that certain elements form compounds with other elements in the presence or absence of hydroxyl ions related to pH – so when you have an excess or lack of a certain element, that excess or dearth can be exacerbated by pH.

For example, a higher pH frees up Calcium ions. If you have excess Ca and a low pH, the low pH can offset the excess. Likewise, if your soil lacks Ca but has a higher pH, more of that Ca is made available to the plant, which offsets the deficiency.

However, if your soil has excess Ca and the pH is also allowed to rise, then more and more Ca becomes available, and less and less of the other nutrients it antagonises (potassium, zinc, iron etc) is made available, leading to a deficiency.

Furthermore, it can be self-perpetuating. Adding dolomite lime increases Ca and also raises pH, further increasing the availability of Ca and impacting other nutrients.

So it's all about balance.

great point, this next time I grow I’ll be using the no till recipe and not deviating. I tend to be liberal with my dry nutrients when mixing soil. I need to quit that shit.

You ever plugged your QB into a kilowatt meter?
Mine pull 285w and I think 65-75000 lux with dr meter, I only use it to get a rough idea of height .

so I bought a kilo watt meter and turned up all the way it pulls 273w from the wall. 12” from the qb is 80,000 lux.

just for clarification it’s a HLG 3k 288 V2 Double Slated QB with a Meanwell HLG-240-C2100A

 

[DankTankerous]

I just read my driver does up to 250 watts but the reader was saying 273, it was daisy chained though, I’m guessing that makes a difference?