Russet Mites?

getogrow

Well-Known Member
hey thanks forgetting back to me

It's an HLG 288 V2 double slated, so it gets up to 230 watts but I have it dimmed down all the way.

My Grow box is wooden and stands 5 ft tall

My plant is 1ft tall but about a 1.5ft wide. I'm scrogging it right now.

I repotted it maybe a month ago into a 3 gal pot, but really I just took out almost half the soil and replaced it with well aerated soil. My plant has been taking forever to drink like up to a week to get dry. Last time I watered it was 5 days ago and the bag is still heavy. I usually pick up the bag to see how heavy it is and that's how I determine if it's dry or not. I put straw hay on top to create some type of no-till style straw breaking down kind of thing. Who knows maybe it's inhibiting it

I water once a week which i know isn't good. I did not put enough perlite in my fox farms Ocean Forest mix, it was taking forever to dry out. so that's when I repotted it. with 30-40%perlite.

I mess around with the fan speed and now the temps are at 81f and 50rh.
I do know that FFOF is well aerated to begin with so your baby not drinking is a sign of a lockout or just plain not enough food.

Why is it so different with these newer leds ? i dont understand. Besides the addition of reds , the good leds are just plain hps or mh spectrum. Im wanting to switch but your the 3 rd person i seen say its tough to get used to.... im lost as to why its so different. Thanks for any input guys
 

getogrow

Well-Known Member
i am 100% positive that they just need more food overall. its not just one or two elements. Give her a couple full doses of whatever veg food you can find and she will start drinking again. (if you were to give her a good dose of chems then she would drink it in 2 or 3 days tops and that would prove my theory)
Trust me , i am the king of underfeeding due to organics. She needs N badly.
 

Apalchen

Well-Known Member
I do know that FFOF is well aerated to begin with so your baby not drinking is a sign of a lockout or just plain not enough food.

Why is it so different with these newer leds ? i dont understand. Besides the addition of reds , the good leds are just plain hps or mh spectrum. Im wanting to switch but your the 3 rd person i seen say its tough to get used to.... im lost as to why its so different. Thanks for any input guys
I explained 4 posts back that the big difference between HID and white LED is that HID lights like hps/mh put off radiative heat that is focused down toward the plants. This means that your leaf temp is actually warmer than your air temp. This doesn't happen under LED so you need to keep your room a good bit warmer to get your leaf temps up where they would be under HPS. If you don't it causes the plants to not respirate as well(basically breath). That coupled with the strength of the lights makes it really easy to have too much light, thus you get deficiency because the plants aren't drinking as hard, and your getting light stress as well cause a deficient plant can't handle as bright of light.

Also a lot of LED growers add more cal mag than HID growers, so add that to the problems explained above and you end up with shitty looking plants.

Simple fix is dim or raise lights til the plant recovers and greens back up. And raising grow room temperature to 82+ degrees.

Coming from HID I've run a ton of light in small spaces at times and never had an issue of too much light so at first it was hard for me to change my mindset to believe too much light is possible, at worst before I'd get some small fox tailing. But with these LED it's easy to get too much light for the plant to handle especially if your room isn't completely dialed in environment wise. If your plant isn't over or underwatered and it's starting to droop at the top as if it is, the plants not happy. In that instance I'd raise lights and/or dim until it starts to recover then slowly up the feed and light levels while keep your temps above 82.

I've had such great results with HPS and CMH that even though I want to play with some LEDs again. (I gave up after one run cause I didn't know all the info explained above.) I keep putting it off as I don't want to be having issues in my main grow rooms. Once I finish building out my other room and have my rooms completely dialed, I'm gonna set up a 4x8 or 5x5 tent to try them out.
 

DankTankerous

Well-Known Member
i am 100% positive that they just need more food overall. its not just one or two elements. Give her a couple full doses of whatever veg food you can find and she will start drinking again. (if you were to give her a good dose of chems then she would drink it in 2 or 3 days tops and that would prove my theory)
Trust me , i am the king of underfeeding due to organics. She needs N badly.
got it. I lowered the fan speed so I’m at 82 now and what do you know the plant is drinking water. I’ll feed her again next time I water. Last time I fed her I was giving her 1/3tsp of fish amino acid per 1/2 gallon As per the recommendation of the website (knf . That even seems like nothing.
I explained 4 posts back that the big difference between HID and white LED is that HID lights like hps/mh put off radiative heat that is focused down toward the plants. This means that your leaf temp is actually warmer than your air temp. This doesn't happen under LED so you need to keep your room a good bit warmer to get your leaf temps up where they would be under HPS. If you don't it causes the plants to not respirate as well(basically breath). That coupled with the strength of the lights makes it really easy to have too much light, thus you get deficiency because the plants aren't drinking as hard, and your getting light stress as well cause a deficient plant can't handle as bright of light.

Also a lot of LED growers add more cal mag than HID growers, so add that to the problems explained above and you end up with shitty looking plants.

Simple fix is dim or raise lights til the plant recovers and greens back up. And raising grow room temperature to 82+ degrees.

Coming from HID I've run a ton of light in small spaces at times and never had an issue of too much light so at first it was hard for me to change my mindset to believe too much light is possible, at worst before I'd get some small fox tailing. But with these LED it's easy to get too much light for the plant to handle especially if your room isn't completely dialed in environment wise. If your plant isn't over or underwatered and it's starting to droop at the top as if it is, the plants not happy. In that instance I'd raise lights and/or dim until it starts to recover then slowly up the feed and light levels while keep your temps above 82.

I've had such great results with HPS and CMH that even though I want to play with some LEDs again. (I gave up after one run cause I didn't know all the info explained above.) I keep putting it off as I don't want to be having issues in my main grow rooms. Once I finish building out my other room and have my rooms completely dialed, I'm gonna set up a 4x8 or 5x5 tent to try them out.
I raised it all the way to the top about 7”. I also took the straw off as a mulch to further dry the soil out. You were right about the temperatures though, she’s drinking now.
 

getogrow

Well-Known Member
I explained 4 posts back that the big difference between HID and white LED is that HID lights like hps/mh put off radiative heat that is focused down toward the plants. This means that your leaf temp is actually warmer than your air temp. This doesn't happen under LED so you need to keep your room a good bit warmer to get your leaf temps up where they would be under HPS. If you don't it causes the plants to not respirate as well(basically breath). That coupled with the strength of the lights makes it really easy to have too much light, thus you get deficiency because the plants aren't drinking as hard, and your getting light stress as well cause a deficient plant can't handle as bright of light.
So do you think most of the problems with good growers switching to led has to do with the leaf temp? It took me awhile but i understand that now.
With hps it just seems like if i lower my temps to , say 72f vs 80f then i would just have to slightly reduce feeding but not by much..... but if i run leds at 78f vs 85f you run into all sorts of problems ? Im lost on that but i think the other part of your post accidentally answers my question. I think these newer leds are much more intense then even the led guys claim.
I see ppfd numbers all over the net and if the light is built with samsung diodes , the claimed numbers are close to the same. So , in general im referring to those lights. HLG, spyder ect...

The "number guys" on here would like to see 30-50 watts of led per sqft. Now, from all this reading and learning from you guys, ive come to the conclusion that 30 watts per sq/ft is much more intense then a 1k Hps.
I may be wrong but i dont see enough evidence to prove me wrong. i can only find one or two charts showing the ppfd numbers on hps. So im assuming that if i were to replace my 1k hps with a HLG 550 then i would need to raise the light higher then my hps to be able to not change the feed.
 

DankTankerous

Well-Known Member
A lot of what Apalchen has started connecting the dots in my head with the various deficiencies and necrotic spots. With these lights the plants do grow rapidly however they can get really finicky it seems. But then again I ran a cross called Madcap from Jinxproof's 9lb hammer and it didn't suffer as much as this c99 x c99 s1. I think I can get it dialed in, its going to take a lot of tinkering, definitely not a set and forget set up. Thank you Alpalchen for all your help. seriously dude.
 

DankTankerous

Well-Known Member
Hey folks,

I fed her today with about double the dose of fish amino acid, Aloe Vera Gel (used from a cutting from the plant not bottled or artificial) and silica.Temps are at 81 at the canopy level. I’m thinking about cutting that long tip in the back. The plant is growing really fast I just wish the color would come back opposed to the height. I also hate seeing those purplish reddish stems. It’s definitely not genetics. Ah well. We’re getting there. This weekend I’ll be moving my cabinet to another room, however it looks like the temps are consistently above 80 so that’s good. I’m just going to be working on feeding her. Any advice is welcome
 

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getogrow

Well-Known Member
yup, been there and done that in my full organic runs. If it was me , i wouldnt be able to resist using a little bit of chems to straighten her out a lil quicker then organics can. 100% organic is the hardest way to grow by far.
 

DankTankerous

Well-Known Member
yup, been there and done that in my full organic runs. If it was me , i wouldnt be able to resist using a little bit of chems to straighten her out a lil quicker then organics can. 100% organic is the hardest way to grow by far.
even with HID lights? I think the goal is to stay ahead of the deficiencies. Sometimes I wonder if it’s just the amount of light the plant is getting. She might have to be getting Teas once a week. What kind of organic nutrients were you using? I ask because I use Down to Earth and I’m wondering if I should use more than their recommended dose.
 

getogrow

Well-Known Member
even with HID lights? I think the goal is to stay ahead of the deficiencies. Sometimes I wonder if it’s just the amount of light the plant is getting. She might have to be getting Teas once a week. What kind of organic nutrients were you using? I ask because I use Down to Earth and I’m wondering if I should use more than their recommended dose.
Yes , HID. ive never tried fully organic with leds yet.
I used earthjuice liquids and LOTS of organic goodies. Compost, worm castings, peat, ect....
Which one of their product line are yuo using for N ? although a good 5-5-5 would work great right this second.
 

DankTankerous

Well-Known Member
I have Neem Seed Meal, Crab Meal, langbenonite, kelp meal, oyster shell, Alflafa Meal and bone Meal. All from Down to Earth. I have Neptune’s Harvest 2-4-1 also Fish Amino Acid, Water Soluble Calcium, and Fermented Fruit Juice all that I made. In my AACT’s 2 cups of premium Worm Castings locally made, along with 2 tablespoons of the FAA, maybe a tablespoon or two of Kelp meal and a little molasses. That’s it. With the bottom half of the soil I did mix in Roots Organics Cal Mag and even top dressed with The cal mag. Now every watering it’s been the FFA, silicate and Aloe Vera gel (from a cutting) and I might just add the liquid Cal Mag.

The temperature at the lower canopy is 79 I imagine the tops have to be hotter than that. I watered it two days ago and it’s still pretty wet
 

getogrow

Well-Known Member
You have PLENTY of Ca in your mix. no need in adding more, it might be affecting the uptake of N. I suppose your best bet is to use the FAA. Maybe try a strong dose without making a tea. She needs an instant dose of food. something chelated would be better. It seems like you have plenty of nutes but im not sure which ones are currently available and which ones are not. Thats the reason i suggest a balanced chem for a couple feedings then back to the norm.
That will help your soil food web also. "Sounds" counterproductive but its not. If you can get her drinking good then that will fix the moisture lvls in the soil which will get all the microbes happy again.
 

DankTankerous

Well-Known Member
You have PLENTY of Ca in your mix. no need in adding more, it might be affecting the uptake of N. I suppose your best bet is to use the FAA. Maybe try a strong dose without making a tea. She needs an instant dose of food. something chelated would be better. It seems like you have plenty of nutes but im not sure which ones are currently available and which ones are not. Thats the reason i suggest a balanced chem for a couple feedings then back to the norm.
That will help your soil food web also. "Sounds" counterproductive but its not. If you can get her drinking good then that will fix the moisture lvls in the soil which will get all the microbes happy again.
funny thing is, is I actually have some synthetic nutes... only because it was given to me. Lol. But I have some micros from earth Juice as well (which I’m pretty sure isn’t organic). Btw do you think it’s the humidity? It’s at 50, but I’m afraid if I bring it up then the temperature will go down.
 

DankTankerous

Well-Known Member
You have PLENTY of Ca in your mix. no need in adding more, it might be affecting the uptake of N. I suppose your best bet is to use the FAA. Maybe try a strong dose without making a tea. She needs an instant dose of food. something chelated would be better. It seems like you have plenty of nutes but im not sure which ones are currently available and which ones are not. Thats the reason i suggest a balanced chem for a couple feedings then back to the norm.
That will help your soil food web also. "Sounds" counterproductive but its not. If you can get her drinking good then that will fix the moisture lvls in the soil which will get all the microbes happy again.
Alright I gave her Maxicrop 10-5-14 with Silicate and Aloe Vera. Hopefully this should do the trick, I may just have to go synthetic for a while. I also moved the cabinet into another room where I can control the temperature a lot better. It was in our room and was waking me up at night because of temps. It does seem like there is quite a difference between 79 and 81. She drinks a lot more water around 81 degrees.
 

getogrow

Well-Known Member
I, personally do not think its humidity at all. Im not an led guy yet so im still learning that too. In fact my brain just kicked in....it cant be humidity. 50 is just right.
Im starting to see that these newer leds are much more intense then they claim......lets see what the maxi crop does. I, personally think she is eating way more then ever because of the light. Your ol school and would not be having so many probs if that wasnt the issue.... That and keep them temps up the best you can.
 

DankTankerous

Well-Known Member
I, personally do not think its humidity at all. Im not an led guy yet so im still learning that too. In fact my brain just kicked in....it cant be humidity. 50 is just right.
Im starting to see that these newer leds are much more intense then they claim......lets see what the maxi crop does. I, personally think she is eating way more then ever because of the light. Your ol school and would not be having so many probs if that wasnt the issue.... That and keep them temps up the best you can.
honestly dude it’s the lights. I remember when I switched to their lower wattage the single like 60 or 75 watt. My plant just went out just like this. I’m going to get rid of it and try and sell it on eBay or something. I don’t think it’s hungry because the bottoms are growing just fine. Nitrogen deficiency would show at the bottom. This maxi crop is definitely the ultimate test. Just pretty shitty that it’s taken me like 2 years to figure this out. I had another plant do well under it, but certain strains I guess can’t take it. I’ll still give it another week.
 

getogrow

Well-Known Member
i suppose the light could be it but im still thinking overall food because of the light. The maxi should answer that though.
Im kinda hoping thats all it is or im gonna go ahead and toss the idea of switching too.

i run led only in veg but intensity is very weak. i have a bunch of cob bulbs. I have noticed if a plant is really close to the bulb then it WILL have a def of some sort no matter what. (i thought i could fix it by adding more food but instead i just dont let them get that close anymore...... 1-2" away)
Im pretty sure i "fixed one" last year because of ocd and it was just lime that fixed it. (Mg is my main guess)
 

getogrow

Well-Known Member
Going by appearance only. It looks like my first 20 trys running 100% organics. Thats why i keep saying food but it could be as simple as a shortage of Mg not letting other elements free up. Do you use yucca? I just got some and its very interesting.
 

DankTankerous

Well-Known Member
Going by appearance only. It looks like my first 20 trys running 100% organics. Thats why i keep saying food but it could be as simple as a shortage of Mg not letting other elements free up. Do you use yucca? I just got some and its very interesting.
I’ve grown organically before and just haven’t ran into these problems. Like I’ve grown organically in a PC Case and still haven’t had problems like this. I’m going to email them tonight and see if I can get an answer. Like it has to be 18”-20” or more to not get the burn. I mean it wouldn’t be the seeds right? I’ve grown with these LED’s on another strain and did alright.
Strain is Madcap by Jinxproof
 

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