LOL imagine trying to hold on to a V8!
I must say, some of those look like an amputation waiting to happen.LOL imagine trying to hold on to a V8!
Pussys.
I checked the drive wheel pressure adjusted four are five times , changed the wheel...... but the first thing I did was remove the tip. I was going to change or clean it but it wasn’t even stuck and that was my first clue that something was up. I was having some trouble with it in the past but Sunday it worked fine for about ten minutes and then intermittently and then not so much. The wire is not stuck in the liner either, if I pull on it , it feeds. I haven’t replaced this liner since the welder was new so I’m guessing it’s time.Mig gun...how's your pressure on the drives? And how does your tip look? Any changes lately?
Liners are easy to replace. Just a few minutes. If that's the issue.
Yeah, the tree is big and a lot of wood and branches. I can chip the branches but there is still a lot of wood. The first 12' is big..I thought a few good slabs but 56" is tough I guess.
How does one best prevent cracking as it dries? I'm thinking a bunch of 56 inch rounds 4-5 inches thick could make a fella some good moneyI checked the drive wheel pressure adjusted four are five times , changed the wheel...... but the first thing I did was remove the tip. I was going to change or clean it but it wasn’t even stuck and that was my first clue that something was up. I was having some trouble with it in the past but Sunday it worked fine for about ten minutes and then intermittently and then not so much. The wire is not stuck in the liner either, if I pull on it , it feeds. I haven’t replaced this liner since the welder was new so I’m guessing it’s time.
56” is a lot of tree , I have a 30” bar for my stihl, but those bastards ain’t cheap. With out some equipment to move the biggest peace’s, it’s left up to the termites and mushrooms to deal with.
The live edge on a tree that size...mantles, tabletops, benches...How does one best prevent cracking as it dries? I'm thinking a bunch of 56 inch rounds 4-5 inches thick could make a fella some good money
Put that log in an open-class chainsaw meet and the labor is free ...How does one best prevent cracking as it dries? I'm thinking a bunch of 56 inch rounds 4-5 inches thick could make a fella some good money
Anchor seal applied literally to the ends. Cut, stacked, and stored in an environment that allows drying but not to fast or slow. May need a fan to speed the removal of moisture or may need to set some bowls of water around the stack to slow it down. On average for green logs it’s one year per inch of thickness for dry time. Of course you can us a kiln but it still needs to get to an ideal moisture content before that. Here where I live during the hot dry/ humidity of summer you can get it down to about 12-15% in wet/humidity of winter maybe you get 15-18% . But even if you kiln dry it, if it is stored in an uncontrolled environment it will return to ambient humidity levels.How does one best prevent cracking as it dries? I'm thinking a bunch of 56 inch rounds 4-5 inches thick could make a fella some good money
That's the problem with in the field amputations unless you plan for stump coverage we are going to have to shorten things up.I must say, some of those look like an amputation waiting to happen.
The V-twin one was cool.
I'm trying to get ahold of my buddy that has a portable mill but I don't know if it can do 56".......everything I'm finding 54" max lol when another friend comes back for the summer he would know who has the capacity. He's got some really big saws. I really don't know if anything more than the first 15' is worth working with. That's when branches start and a few forks from there up.Anchor seal applied literally to the ends. Cut, stacked, and stored in an environment that allows drying but not to fast or slow. May need a fan to speed the removal of moisture or may need to set some bowls of water around the stack to slow it down. On average for green logs it’s one year per inch of thickness for dry time. Of course you can us a kiln but it still needs to get to an ideal moisture content before that. Here where I live during the hot dry/ humidity of summer you can get it down to about 12-15% in wet/humidity of winter maybe you get 15-18% . But even if you kiln dry it, if it is stored in an uncontrolled environment it will return to ambient humidity levels.
what type of tree was it?I'm trying to get ahold of my buddy that has a portable mill but I don't know if it can do 56".......everything I'm finding 54" max lol when another friend comes back for the summer he would know who has the capacity. He's got some really big saws. I really don't know if anything more than the first 15' is worth working with. That's when branches start and a few forks from there up.
Thanks, didn't catch that first time aroundIt's still a...
Pinus strobus - Wikipedia
en.m.wikipedia.org
Did I mention it? I actually don't remember lolThanks, didn't catch that first time around
Not a prob, I skim a lot of stuff. I was unaware though, after reading the wiki link, that you east coast guys also have problems with pine blister. And kneejerk 1st thoughts are that the east coast has mostly hardwoods.Did I mention it? I actually don't remember lol
I was just busting on the "What type of tree was it" because it's still a white pine. Sorry
The crotch wood is the most figured and the most valuable. Not for lumber but for tables and stuff.I'm trying to get ahold of my buddy that has a portable mill but I don't know if it can do 56".......everything I'm finding 54" max lol when another friend comes back for the summer he would know who has the capacity. He's got some really big saws. I really don't know if anything more than the first 15' is worth working with. That's when branches start and a few forks from there up.
Is it infected with beetles or healthy?It's still a...
Pinus strobus - Wikipedia
en.m.wikipedia.org