PJ Diaz
Well-Known Member
Bring back the DIY discounts. I miss the $29 v1 QB blowout from last year.
DIY with Quantum Boards
- Thread starter robincnn
- Start date
smokeybeard
Well-Known Member
QB96 build with 320h-1400? Thoughts and opinions? Running 4 of them?
Moabfighter
Well-Known Member
Meanwell lrs 320h 54a?
edit I have two qb96 on one of these. Can sort of explain if you wanna hear. In a series I guess? I don’ know. I can tell you how to do it if this is what you’re looking for
smokeybeard
Well-Known Member
Yes, I absolutely would love to hear about it. I have a 320-54a running my 288's.
Only reason I am thinking of the 320h-1400 is I have it on hand. My set of lights I was going to use it on went "missing".
PJ Diaz
Well-Known Member
You would need to put them in series with that driver, which means that you'd be running DC voltages over 200volts. To me that's a potential killer, which I would prefer to avoid. I'd suggest parallel on a 320H-54A instead.
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
My favourite HLG board would be a Diablo with gen1 diodes, cheapo reds (prolight opto got good offerings) for cheapish, around 50$. Best of the best is great but best of the rest is real nice as well.
Moabfighter
Well-Known Member
I might have meant parallel. I don’t know. I got a tutorial from some fancy light dude and here’s what I did years ago. Do it like this.
MustGro
Well-Known Member
I wish my new 320H-54AB had the two ports in it like yours @Moabfighter . No way to limit voltage. Guess I should have bought the A series. I assumed (mistake) it would be the same as my 240H-48AB drivers (which have both ports). So some AB drivers have both ports and some don’t. I think @2com ’s right, gotta check the specs on them all.
I can confirm that all AB drivers don’t have both ports for you @Rocket Soul .
I can confirm that all AB drivers don’t have both ports for you @Rocket Soul .
Attachments
pop22
Well-Known Member
You still got top shelf diodes! What I've heard is that Samsung's top bin LEDs have been so good they created a new bin And HLG is getting them. As soon as someone from HLG confirms or denies I'll let everyone here know.
pop22
Well-Known Member
I'd go with the 480H-C2100 as I see that as the sweet spot for power and efficiency balance, but the 320H-C1400 will work fine also. What size area do you plant to light with these?
And although PJ DIAz is right, the actuality is it only takes about 43 volts to overcome the resistance of skin so all 54 volt and higher lights pose a risk. build a light, and triple check all connections before powering it up, is just basic safety. The connectors on QB boards are rated for 300 Volts.
And although PJ DIAz is right, the actuality is it only takes about 43 volts to overcome the resistance of skin so all 54 volt and higher lights pose a risk. build a light, and triple check all connections before powering it up, is just basic safety. The connectors on QB boards are rated for 300 Volts.
Last edited:
Moabfighter
Well-Known Member
Am I doing anything wrong or dangerous with my setup? Again I got the recommendations from what I’d say is a very good grower. They get hot and I don’t want to burn our small home down.
99/100 times of lights get too hot will they shut off before they catch fire or? Sorry to sound stupid. I didn’t take electrical in school. I’m glad my lights are off at night but I often wake up atleast once a month in fear of fire. These DIY quantum boards and me being sort of ahem underprepared to build this stuff… I just hope for the best man
PJ Diaz
Well-Known Member
So if I held out two sets of hot leads, one at 54v and the other at 216v, you don't have a preference which one I shock you with?
Also it's worth noting that the series you are suggesting only has Io dimming, while the 54A series has both Io and Vo.
CikaBika
Well-Known Member
Mid looking girls fck really good.
pop22
Well-Known Member
It's not the voltage that will kill you, it's the amperage. And I've had the unfortunate experience to witness an industrial accident, someone electrocuted by 880V three phase.......... That was 40 years ago and I still have nightmares about it!
My advice is DON'T touch bare wires that are part of a live circuit, ever! Or don't do DIY at all. Personally, I find woodworking much more dangerous yet thousands of people do it. Risk is relative to common sense and proper precautions.
My advice is DON'T touch bare wires that are part of a live circuit, ever! Or don't do DIY at all. Personally, I find woodworking much more dangerous yet thousands of people do it. Risk is relative to common sense and proper precautions.
pop22
Well-Known Member
The QB 96 uses high power diodes vs the mid power ones used in the QB 288s and Diablos. They get fairly hot when driven above 100 watts per light, its why the have those heavy heatsinks. No, they won't catch fire.
MustGro
Well-Known Member
A lot easier to get along with on a daily basis too.
smokeybeard
Well-Known Member
For right now it would be moved into my 3'x3'. I have my 288 pair on the 320-54 driver at the moment inside the 3x3 but I feel like it is just a hair under powered for that space. I really thinking having the 288 pair in the middle and building a frame to hold the 4 qb96 around the corners would be nice, this is really what I would like to do with the lights anyway really so I can under drive them and increase efficiency and room to grow with as well.
PJ Diaz
Well-Known Member
I get what your saying (and that 880v 3-phase sounds awful), however below 60v DC is generally considered safe regardless of current. Of course I wouldn't want to get shocked with 10,000 amps @ 60v, but that would be a pretty thick wire.
cobshopgrow
Well-Known Member
ill bet you dont want to get shocked by 1A @ 60V either regardless of the voltage.
"An electrical current at 1,000 volts is no more deadly than a current at 100 volts, but tiny changes in amperage can mean the difference between life and death when a person receives an electrical shock.
www.thespruce.com
but ,yea, you probably need to lick on your 60V wires to cross the skin barriers resistance, btw a meanwell 480W 36V is pretty deadly then.
"An electrical current at 1,000 volts is no more deadly than a current at 100 volts, but tiny changes in amperage can mean the difference between life and death when a person receives an electrical shock.
- 50 to 150 mA: Extreme pain, possible severe muscle reactions, possible respiratory arrest, and even possible death.
- 1,000 mA to 4,300 mA: Heart ceases pumping; nerve damage and death likely.
- 10,000 mA (10 amps): Cardiac arrest, severe burns, and death."
Amperage, Not Voltage, Poses the Greatest Danger With Electrical Shock
The real danger with electrical shock is amperage, not voltage. Learn the difference between amps vs volts and how to stay safe when working with electricity.
but ,yea, you probably need to lick on your 60V wires to cross the skin barriers resistance, btw a meanwell 480W 36V is pretty deadly then.
Last edited:
PJ Diaz
Well-Known Member
And of course that assumes that the current passes through your heart. I wonder if more left-handed electricians die from electrocution compared to righties.ill bet you dont want to get shocked by 1A @ 60V either regardless of the voltage.
"An electrical current at 1,000 volts is no more deadly than a current at 100 volts, but tiny changes in amperage can mean the difference between life and death when a person receives an electrical shock.
- 50 to 150 mA: Extreme pain, possible severe muscle reactions, possible respiratory arrest, and even possible death.
- 1,000 mA to 4,300 mA: Heart ceases pumping; nerve damage and death likely.
- 10,000 mA (10 amps): Cardiac arrest, severe burns, and death."
Amperage, Not Voltage, Poses the Greatest Danger With Electrical Shock
The real danger with electrical shock is amperage, not voltage. Learn the difference between amps vs volts and how to stay safe when working with electricity.
but ,yea, you probably need to lick on your 60V wires to cross the skin barriers resistance, btw a meanwell 480W 36V is pretty deadly then.