installing new lights please help

bigbacon2

Active Member
So i got my lights in and am aobut to install them. I have 2 1000 watt hps and 2 400 watt MH. I know nothing about electricity. I figure i cant just plug them all in to the wall because it will blow the breaker. What is my easiest solution to hooking these up? Also i will have 3 inline fans one big one and 2 small ones. At first i will be running just 1 400 watt while they are in veg until they get bigger so the socket in the wall should be able to handle 1 400 watt light right?
Thanks for all the help.
 

max420thc

Well-Known Member
you will normaly have the rated amp's of each light listed..a 1000 watt light is pulling around 8 amps...you will need to know how many circuits you have...weather you can run more electrical circuits..you can cut your amp draw in half using 220 volts...you are going to need to know about what the total amps you are going to be pulling and what your circuits can handle..in other words..your breaker size in the breaker box....
 

VictorVIcious

Well-Known Member
So i got my lights in and am aobut to install them. I have 2 1000 watt hps and 2 400 watt MH. I know nothing about electricity. I figure i cant just plug them all in to the wall because it will blow the breaker. What is my easiest solution to hooking these up? Also i will have 3 inline fans one big one and 2 small ones. At first i will be running just 1 400 watt while they are in veg until they get bigger so the socket in the wall should be able to handle 1 400 watt light right?
Thanks for all the help.
Well......in order to try and answer this question we would need details. Electrical installation is as easy as abc, and some times d. Safety is the key. ALWAYS TURN THE SWITCH OFF first.

That is a little bit of an add on to your existing load so you would need to start there. What is your existing electrical service? You would find this by looking in your Service Panel, what is the number on the main switch?
Basically, with the lights you have listed and the equipment I know you will need, I would want to have at least 6 separete circuits dedicated to that room. DO you have six open slots in the box?
Yes, almost all household circuits will allow you to power a 400 watt light, you are right about that. The question is, if you decide you need to have an electricain do this work, do you want plants growing there? VV
 

VictorVIcious

Well-Known Member
you will normaly have the rated amp's of each light listed..a 1000 watt light is pulling around 8 amps...you will need to know how many circuits you have...weather you can run more electrical circuits..you can cut your amp draw in half using 220 volts...you are going to need to know about what the total amps you are going to be pulling and what your circuits can handle..in other words..your breaker size in the breaker box....
you cut your amp draw and double the number of slots you use in the panel. VV
 

bigbacon2

Active Member
The breaker is fairly far from the room i will be growing in.I do have plenty of open spaces on the breaker though. Do i need to have a subpanel ran from the breaker to my 2 bedrooms?
 

VictorVIcious

Well-Known Member
The breaker is fairly far from the room i will be growing in.I do have plenty of open spaces on the breaker though. Do i need to have a subpanel ran from the breaker to my 2 bedrooms?
It could be a good idea. The advantage would be you could remove it and take it with you. The disadvantage would be you might want to take it with you and the new owner might like having it like it is. The way I have mine set up, my house is a subpanel, powered with 100 amps of the 200amp service I have in my work shop. Wiring to run a subpanel is not cheap. not nearly as expensive as it was two years ago either.
If you have a lot of open spaces you probably have a large enough service for this addition. It would probably be easier to do the rest of the work and you do want to have switches close to your work room. If you would like to see what is involved buy a book on it, I bought one at home depot.
Wiring Simplified. Just saw one put out by Stanley yesterday, Both of these books show all you would need to do this.
If you do decide to diy buy good tool, Klien is one good name. VV
 

bigbacon2

Active Member
I think the breaker can handle it with no problem. I was just looking at the breaker and it has a subpanel already leading off of it to control the laidnty room and garage and another panel in the laundry room. BUt they are pretty far from my grow room. Is there a way to hook these lights up without installing a subpanel. I really dont wanna go that rout unless i have to.
 

dazed76

New Member
you can also go from the dryer, you can get a splitter that splits to 2 plugs so that you run ur lights off a 30 amp breaker wich most dryers use and its 240, you could do laundry when ur lights are off so as to not blow your breaker so when veg do 18 on 6 off you got 6 hrs to dry ur clothes lol hey it works and when its 12 12 then you got more time.. Get a board with timer and tell the hydro store your splitting your dryer plus you will need to show them with a pic what kind it is so as they know how to build it for you. you also want them to run 4 to 6 plugs off 240v and get them to do 4 120v timed and get 2 plugs constant that way you can run your exhaust constant and the rest timed all will b under the 30 amp range thus making it perfectly safe and using half the power other then the 120v plugs. Btw all your fans will b 120v and pumps and so on your ballasts will need to b wired to 240 if you dont know how to do it kinda easy when you get them to show you its 1 wire . always run your exhaust all the time to scrub the air well .
 

dazed76

New Member
from the panel all you need to do is get a 30 amp breaker and turn off all the power when doing this. once you install the breaker get your wire that hooks up to the timer and board wich will b one green one white one red and one black, your gona stick the black on the top side of the breaker the red on the bottom and the white and green on the subpanel this is for ur ground. turn power back on and test that your board is working.
 

dazed76

New Member
a 20amp will do but you might want to go with 4 1000 soon lol btw you need 8 gauge wire if your running 50 feet or more or 10 gauge if under, then attach it to the board that will have red black green white or just copper cable, join properly this is very important with those little red caps and some good electricians tape to go around the connection and 6 inches in so that it provides the joint strength
 

bigbacon2

Active Member
thanks for all the comments guys. I am trying to understand everything but not really getting it. If i have to install a subpanel from the breaker i will have someone come in and do it. i was just wondering if there is a way to hook the lights up without doing that. Also i dont know if it makes a big difference but my laundry room where my dryer is located us not attached to my house and about 30 feet from my house. When you install a subpanel from the breaker do you run the wire inside the walls of the house or what. Im really lost. sorry guys.
 

VictorVIcious

Well-Known Member
I think the breaker can handle it with no problem. I was just looking at the breaker and it has a subpanel already leading off of it to control the laidnty room and garage and another panel in the laundry room. BUt they are pretty far from my grow room. Is there a way to hook these lights up without installing a subpanel. I really dont wanna go that rout unless i have to.
No it is not necessary, it would be for convenience or cost. You can run individual wiring from your main panel to a spot in the room and install receptacles. For this application you would only need to run 14 wire with 15 amp breakers, standard household out lets. When I did mine, I was saving money on the labor so I used 12 wire, 20 amp breakers and receptacles.

It sounds like they added subpanels as they added to the original house and upgraded the service entrance to a higher amperage, if the house has a basement and an attic its quite possible you have a blue print of how they did it all laid out there, just follow the big wires. The smaller wires that run out of your subpanels would be extension cords if the subpanel were not there and they had separete receptacles instead of a panel.
Most subpanels will operate off 4 wires, Black, red, white and green which gives you 220 power at the subpanel. The black wire and the red wire will be attached to the di-pole breaker switch, this switch would be a minimum of 30amp, for this application I would recommend 50 amp, which is the same breaker you would use for an electric stove. 40 amp is fairly normal for central air, and 30 amp is a normal electric dryer in my area. The white wire will go to the nuetral bar and the grounding wire will go to green grounding bar. The size of the wire will depend on your local codes, I think it could require as high as 6-3 wire with ground, if you went with the 50 amp.
If you wanted to have individual circuit instead, and if I were doing this for myself this is the way I would do it, you would deal with 3 wires instead of four, black, white, and green. The black wire will be attached to you single pole 20 amp breaker, the white and green wires will be attached at the same spots as they would have in the previous installation. When you put the breaker in place it makes contact with the bar down the center, and completes the circuit. You would run 12 wiring to where you want them for each plug you would install. The reason I would choose this is at resale time. Almost all rooms in our houses now are under powered for all of the electric items we have now, everyone has a power strip plugged in some where. Current code is a duplex for every six feet of wall in my area and I installed it that way in my family room. Still have a power stip behind the tv. They make boxes for retrofitting in an existing wall that work well, have special ears that hold them in place and meet code. And they have special $50.00 long drill bits for going thru plates, this could be fun. VV
 

VictorVIcious

Well-Known Member
thanks for all the comments guys. I am trying to understand everything but not really getting it. If i have to install a subpanel from the breaker i will have someone come in and do it.
if you decide either way this may be the best, there are electricians looking for work, and copper prices are down so their material cost are down. All you need is the right story and I just told it.

i was just wondering if there is a way to hook the lights up without doing that. Also i dont know if it makes a big difference but my laundry room where my dryer is located us not attached to my house and about 30 feet from my house. When you install a subpanel from the breaker do you run the wire inside the walls of the house or what. Im really lost. sorry guys.
If the laundry room is that far the wire may have been run under ground. Sub panel wirng can be in the walls especially in the room at the time it was constructed. From the service panel out it would more than likely be in the attic or basement or crawl space.
You could have an electricain out to give you an estimate, ask him to figure it both ways, 4-6 individual, 110v, 20 amp etc and a sub panel etc. I would not want to add a permanent subpanel in a bedroom. VV
 

bigbacon2

Active Member
Thanks you guys have been a huge help. I do have one more question though. I was looking at the main breaker panel a minute ago and noticed i have a 20 amp switch to each bedroom upstairs and a 70 amp swith to my garage and a 70 amp switch to my kitchen. Would there be a way to take the 20 amp switch out of the main breaker and replace it with a 50 or 70 amp switch. I dont know if this will work but then the room would be able to handle 70 amos instead of 20. Or am i way off with this?
 

VictorVIcious

Well-Known Member
Thanks you guys have been a huge help. I do have one more question though. I was looking at the main breaker panel a minute ago and noticed i have a 20 amp switch to each bedroom upstairs and a 70 amp swith to my garage and a 70 amp switch to my kitchen. Would there be a way to take the 20 amp switch out of the main breaker and replace it with a 50 or 70 amp switch. I dont know if this will work but then the room would be able to handle 70 amos instead of 20. Or am i way off with this?
You are way off on this, It is not likely they have wiring capable on handling a 50 amp wire run to a 20amp circuit. DO you have an electric stove? VV
 

vanbuilder2

Well-Known Member
I would not suggest someone t mess with there electrical if they no nothing. Not a good start to a burned down house.
 

VictorVIcious

Well-Known Member
yeah i have an electrical stove VV it is right under the rooms i iwill be growing in
Well..now I know why they have a 70 amp subpanel for the kitchen, 50 for the stove 20 for everything else. Is there any room in that subpanel?
Get an estimate, it might help you decide how this should be done. I learned how to do this stuff, you could to, if you have the time. VV
 
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