Is yellowing normal now that I'm flowering

StonedGardener

StonedGardener

Well-Known Member
Kassiopeija said:
??? no its not, neither are the veins, nor would I say this is a deficient plant. a single symptome doesnt warrant a full diagnosis.
it's the general status of the plant, new shoots & old fanleaves we want to look at.
I'm also not ruling out a second explanation but I wonder what ur trying to achieve here by showing a leaf that is filled up behind both ears with nutes. but one thing is certain, if u go overboard with nutes it may lead to a physiological toxicity, then the plant could display deficient symptons as well as the internal chemocycles cannot operate normally as well...
Click to expand...
If I had a nickel for evey purple stem I've seen in 50yrs , I'd be so f'ing rich that I wouldn't have to pay taxes.
 
Kassiopeija

Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
rkymtnman said:
what elemental ppm range(s) of N do you recommend for a cannabis plant grown in coco:

early bloom aka stretch= ppm?

mid bloom= ppm?

and end of bloom= ppm?
Click to expand...
First of all I'm using soil/peat personally and not coco, and I feed organically. Though I have cocos & mineralic fertilizer here, but I dislike mixing cocos + soil, and mineralic feeds also are not optimal to use. Though I've used Calnit & Epsom to give feeds a slight edge in their specific direction. I measure this by EC in mS and set the goal by inspecting the plant(s).
I do not calculate ppms individually of each nute ion and think to manipulate this could lead to several problems - esp. considering ions "come in a pack" - kation & anion, so by increasing the one you also always increase the other.
Now this is problematic because nute ions are known to have "a relationship", either antagonizing or supportive, and by manipulating too excessively at one knob you may just throw something else into disarray.

And all of this largely ignores environmental factors and genetics. So it stands to reason an optimal or even perfect nute mix cannot be formulated. Even the frequency of fertigation, and the N-form (nitrate, ammonia or urea) would have an influence.

But if I see a leaf extremely dark I'd first reduce generally the EC, then watch out at lower leaves and new shoots for the typical aberrations. And then you see what first is missing, and what to increase.

Last year Original Malawi was heavily stunted for weeks in the same mix than typical dutch- & spanishbred indoor (or outdoor) hybrids, with leaves dark just like above (also the purple main-stem that went away after I fed "only water" for several weeks), which led me too believe it's mix was too fat and the plant had a problem with P-uptake (that results in darker leaf appearance, too)
Sinai didn't even grew at all sadly, I think this one would favour a more sandy, not peat-based soil. Like less acidic and rather neutral.
 
Kassiopeija

Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
Boatguy said:
What the hell is a chemocycle?.. Anyone that has any idea feel free to fill me in.
Click to expand...
something like this:
IMG_20220309_223620~2.jpg

Prof. Schubert writes when plants becomes P-def, such a cycle gets throttled while others (which are not P-dependant) run fully leading to an anthocyan buildup in the outer layer of the stem.
I have not been able to find which cycle(s) are affected, it's somewhere buried in books.
But all living creatures possess such cycles but with plants, it really gets excessive how much they can synthesize (compared to animals).

That said, my main interest is photobiology not chemistry so I haven't spend much time to peruse this....
 
twentyeight.threefive

twentyeight.threefive

Well-Known Member
Kassiopeija said:
First of all I'm using soil/peat personally and not coco, and I feed organically. Though I have cocos & mineralic fertilizer here, but I dislike mixing cocos + soil, and mineralic feeds also are not optimal to use. Though I've used Calnit & Epsom to give feeds a slight edge in their specific direction. I measure this by EC in mS and set the goal by inspecting the plant(s).
I do not calculate ppms individually of each nute ion and think to manipulate this could lead to several problems - esp. considering ions "come in a pack" - kation & anion, so by increasing the one you also always increase the other.
Now this is problematic because nute ions are known to have "a relationship", either antagonizing or supportive, and by manipulating too excessively at one knob you may just throw something else into disarray.

And all of this largely ignores environmental factors and genetics. So it stands to reason an optimal or even perfect nute mix cannot be formulated. Even the frequency of fertigation, and the N-form (nitrate, ammonia or urea) would have an influence.

But if I see a leaf extremely dark I'd first reduce generally the EC, then watch out at lower leaves and new shoots for the typical aberrations. And then you see what first is missing, and what to increase.

Last year Original Malawi was heavily stunted for weeks in the same mix than typical dutch- & spanishbred indoor (or outdoor) hybrids, with leaves dark just like above (also the purple main-stem that went away after I fed "only water" for several weeks), which led me too believe it's mix was too fat and the plant had a problem with P-uptake (that results in darker leaf appearance, too)
Sinai didn't even grew at all sadly, I think this one would favour a more sandy, not peat-based soil. Like less acidic and rather neutral.
Click to expand...
So the TL;DR version is you arbitrarily deemed my plants in excess of nitrogen based on a dark leaf? Got it.
 
rkymtnman

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
Kassiopeija said:
So it stands to reason an optimal or even perfect nute mix cannot be formulated. Even the frequency of fertigation, and the N-form (nitrate, ammonia or urea) would have an influence
Click to expand...
so you only know what too much N is by looking at your leaves? no offense, but that sounds ridiculous to me especially given the technical aspects of your posts.

how do you know if there is too much N or just genetics if your leaves are dark green?


Kassiopeija said:
what photosynthetic regulatory mechanisms you torpedo by saturating N levels in abundance
Click to expand...
you can't quantify this statement?. what mechanisms suffer and at what ppm levels of N? what ppm is an "abundance" of N? what ppm is deficient in N?
 
Kassiopeija

Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
rkymtnman said:
you can't quantify this statement?. what mechanisms suffer and at what ppm levels of N? what ppm is an "abundance" of N? what ppm is deficient in N?
Click to expand...
Abundant N availability will lead to increased chlorophyll-content impacting its ability to allow light into lower regions and also significantly increasing its temperature.
It's not only that N solely does that but also Mg and other ions that get stored in leaf vacuoles.
Like I said, it's both relative and complex. And it's been a swift reply, thus simplifications happening.
If you really wanna know, this can be measured actually. I think Pulse(?) has such a meter? donno it's been a few years when I crossed that
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top