Is this the start of PM

Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
It seems like many newer growers are just focused on charts and measurements.
maybe because there's some truth to them...

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Sup UV-B. or a manual UV-C desinfection lamp. These could even generate ozone -multiple ways to kill pathogens.

And no toxic substances later in buds.. though still, it's not without danger ;)
 

FlowerPower88

Well-Known Member
Also, it seems as if it definitely is the warm mist humidifier, all around the floor where the humidifier sits has what looks like the same thing outlining it on the spill mat so I am removing everything I’ve sprayed everything down with cann control and am removing everything breaking down all components wiping them down, then I’m going to bleach wipe the whole thing…or is this overkill
 

FlowerPower88

Well-Known Member
Ya good luck once its started on a plant almost impossible to cure, But you can battle it to the Finnish an be fine if you stay on top of it, If the plant is in veg i would hit it with copper every 3 days for 10 days
What do you mean hit it with copper?
 

Astral22

Well-Known Member
Thankfully this is the only plant in this tent atm, there is a floor vent next to the plant with a fan pulling air out and there is a top vent open with air coming in
I'm sorry but i couldn't understand that, maybe i'm too high :D
Can you please post a pic of the ventilation?
 

FlowerPower88

Well-Known Member
I'm sorry but i couldn't understand that, maybe i'm too high :D
Can you please post a pic of the ventilation?
The ducting at the bottom is connected to an in-line fan pulling air out…the vent hole on top is sucking in air. I was thinking maybe I should bring the inline fan into the tent and pull air in through the top vent and utilize the carbon filter to filter incoming air
 

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Astral22

Well-Known Member
That should be vice versa.. The top vent should pull air out of the tent, the bottom should bring air in. Heat rises up, cold air goes down. And you don't really need intake ventilation, passive intake is enough through the opening screens on the bottom, so only the exhaust fan on the top should be enough. (although an intake fan is also good, nothing wrong with that, you can use it, but it should run slower than the exhaust fan)
The tent has to have a slightly negative pressure, the walls of the tent should suck in a little bit, not expand.

The carbon filter you should put on the exhaust fan on top, and pull air through it to remove smells, or push air through it if you have height issues.
For the intake on the bottom a carbon filter won't help much with mold spores and other stuff, it's mostly for the smell. And that would release carbon dust inside the tent. If you want to filter the intake air, use a HEPA filter (Xiaomi has HEPA filters shaped like a carbon filter, so you could attach it to a fan)

And you should place some small oscillating fans in the tent to blow on the leaves and mix the air around. Without those you will get stagnant wetspots and hotspots. Plants love a little breeze on them, makes it difficult for the mold spores and bugs to settle on the leaves, and it strengthens the stems. What is your tent size? Maybe 2 small oscillating fans in each corner diagonally, one below the plant and one above the plant.

And definitely few more hygrometers/thermometers placed around the plant. I have one on the bottom of the tent, one on top of the soil, and one on top of the canopy. And i'll add a 4th one just to have some in each corner diagonally.

Here, check out these links:
 
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PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
The cause is spores finding conditions where they can colonize and multiply. At this point your best option is going to be using some kind of spray. Lowering your humidity is not going to get rid of it and can actually cause more spores to be released into the air.

I don't grow by any VPD chart and I've never had PM indoors in decades of growing. It seems like many newer growers are just focused on charts and measurements. A simple preventative spray of neem in veg would likely have prevented it. But that's just too simple.
How about a citric acid spray, lower the RH, and increase airflow? I don't go by VPD either. Mine's always crazy since my RH is super low.
 

xtsho

Well-Known Member
How about a citric acid spray, lower the RH, and increase airflow? I don't go by VPD either. Mine's always crazy since my RH is super low.
Citric acid is too easy. Everyone wants some fancy commercial product that may or may not be toxic that claims it can be used up until the day of harvest and costs $45 for a 12 oz bottle.
 

FlowerPower88

Well-Known Member
That should be vice versa.. The top vent should pull air out of the tent, the bottom should bring air in. Heat rises up, cold air goes down. And you don't really need intake ventilation, passive intake is enough through the opening screens on the bottom, so only the exhaust fan on the top should be enough. (although an intake fan is also good, nothing wrong with that, you can use it, but it should run slower than the exhaust fan)
The tent has to have a slightly negative pressure, the walls of the tent should suck in a little bit, not expand.

The carbon filter you should put on the exhaust fan on top, and pull air through it to remove smells, or push air through it if you have height issues.
For the intake on the bottom a carbon filter won't help much with mold spores and other stuff, it's mostly for the smell. And that would release carbon dust inside the tent. If you want to filter the intake air, use a HEPA filter (Xiaomi has HEPA filters shaped like a carbon filter, so you could attach it to a fan)

And you should place some small oscillating fans in the tent to blow on the leaves and mix the air around. Without those you will get stagnant wetspots and hotspots. Plants love a little breeze on them, makes it difficult for the mold spores and bugs to settle on the leaves, and it strengthens the stems. What is your tent size? Maybe 2 small oscillating fans in each corner diagonally, one below the plant and one above the plant.

And definitely few more hygrometers/thermometers placed around the plant. I have one on the bottom of the tent, one on top of the soil, and one on top of the canopy. And i'll add a 4th one just to have some in each corner diagonally.

Here, check out these links:
So I know that usually the exhaust is up too and the intake down low, but it was suggested me to reverse it due to heating issues in the winter where I am, it’s not as much of a thing now cause the season is changing, but it’s still in the 30s at night so it was helping keep my temps up, no smell or at least not that needs to be filtered yet, this plant was intended to be my mother plant…that’s kinda sketchy now.

I do have good negative pressure in the tent, 2 oscillating clip fans and the fan on my evaporative humidifier as well so the air is circulating, the leaves have stayed dancing this whole last month, so I know it wasn’t an airflow issue.

the tent is a 4x4 and I have 2 hygrometers one just Below the plant level and one at the canopy.
 

FlowerPower88

Well-Known Member
Idk maybe I should try and grow mold or raise fungus gnats and I’ll end up with top shelf weed destroying my crop of mold and stable of pests
 
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