Help?

O

Orin190

Well-Known Member
So this is the 2nd grow in a row (only 3 total under my belt) that the buds just keep throwing out new pistils and then it kinda fox tails. It grows a nice bud then throws more pistils and and starts growing another bud off the bud. I did put 8 cups of ewc and 8 cups of pearlite in the soil which is 60% ffof and 40 ffhf which was about 12 gallons of soil i mixed it into total. Been giving general hydroponics nutes but cut out the flora micro. Been giving about 75% of recommendation. I started at about 1/3 and worked up. Hlg blackbird and 750ish ppfd.

Not sure if this is the fade or something else with the leaves. I'd be shocked if it's n deficiency, if anything maybe a toxicity.......

Or do i keep on keepin on?


Any thoughts? Need more info/pics? Let me know.
 

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Why cut out the Flora Bloom? You're losing pretty all your K and I think it has impact on cal-mag ratio if you're not using all 3 parts.

Edit. Just looked at the bottles. Losing a good bit of your K and a lot of your P.
 
Fangthane said:
Why cut out the Flora Bloom? You're losing pretty all your K and I think it has impact on cal-mag ratio if you're not using all 3 parts.

Edit. Just looked at the bottles. Losing a good bit of your K and a lot of your P.
Click to expand...
Sorry, I meant flora micro - just edited it.
 
I've only been using GH Flora for a month or so, but I'm not sure taking the Micro out of the equation is a very good idea either. Any of the modified "Lucas formula" type deals I've seen so far all involve keeping the Micro and Bloom, dropping the Grow.
 
The foxtailing and new pistils are from stress. Either your light is too close or too intense, or you have some high temp fluctuations. I know you said your ppfd is 750ish, but some plants like it dimmed right down and backed off the last 3 weeks.
 
One of the most difficult things to learn is to use the dimmer knob. A lot of new growers will pump the lights (not saying you are) thinking that the nugs need to fill out and there's only 2 or three weeks left. At that point in flowering development, they mostly need time. Give it just enough light at the end to keep it happy.

This is a great opportunity to learn how to read your plants. When you see burn of any kind, first step is to back off the lights to lower transpiration thereby limiting further damage. Then assess through the following days. If the problem continues, your soil is the culprit. If it stops, it's the light/ppfd. I've seen many a grower chasing nutrient issues compounding the problem, when all they need to do is back the light off.
 
I assume this an auto?
How long has she been growing/flowering?
What are your temps at the top of the canopy?
And are u PH’ing your inputs ?
The foxtailing is minor and not the type of foxtailing that is a bad thing. Some strains will foxtail regardless and it just makes for chunky buds. As a matter of fact, in some countries, they look at it as a desired trait and call it “King’s Crowning”.
The bad form of foxtailing, caused by too much heat and/or light looks different. It’s where the calyces grow right on top of one another and form a string-like structure. You’re not dealing with that.
My guess is you’ve locked something out, possibly ph related and the plant is showing mainly a K def.
If it’s been flowering for an inordinate amount of time, it will likely never achieve a textbook finish.
If that’s not the case, you may be able to get it to ripen up as it should.
Many a grower, myself included, have let plants go b/c of new pistils or waiting on more amber trichs, only to learn that healthy plants develop, progress and ripen. Plants with issues do not.
I’m not being critical of your grow…..it’s just something that I’ve experienced with my own grows over the years.
I do an organic grow, so I can’t really speak to your specific nutrients, but I would think a good flush, followed up with a feeding (at the proper ph, and after it dries out a bit) might be all u need.
good luck
 
cannabiscrusader said:
One of the most difficult things to learn is to use the dimmer knob. A lot of new growers will pump the lights (not saying you are) thinking that the nugs need to fill out and there's only 2 or three weeks left. At that point in flowering development, they mostly need time. Give it just enough light at the end to keep it happy.

This is a great opportunity to learn how to read your plants. When you see burn of any kind, first step is to back off the lights to lower transpiration thereby limiting further damage. Then assess through the following days. If the problem continues, your soil is the culprit. If it stops, it's the light/ppfd. I've seen many a grower chasing nutrient issues compounding the problem, when all they need to do is back the light off.
Click to expand...
Well said and spot on.
 
Looks like over feeding and fade all in one, over burnt tips..
Why add nutes when you put 8 cups of ewc in the soil ?
You can run a whole cycle on ewc alone, and if needed then you might add some extra ewc or nutes..
Anyway check runoff ec to see kinda where you at, and go from there
 
Bullmark said:
I assume this an auto?
How long has she been growing/flowering?
What are your temps at the top of the canopy?
And are u PH’ing your inputs ?
The foxtailing is minor and not the type of foxtailing that is a bad thing. Some strains will foxtail regardless and it just makes for chunky buds. As a matter of fact, in some countries, they look at it as a desired trait and call it “King’s Crowning”.
The bad form of foxtailing, caused by too much heat and/or light looks different. It’s where the calyces grow right on top of one another and form a string-like structure. You’re not dealing with that.
My guess is you’ve locked something out, possibly ph related and the plant is showing mainly a K def.
If it’s been flowering for an inordinate amount of time, it will likely never achieve a textbook finish.
If that’s not the case, you may be able to get it to ripen up as it should.
Many a grower, myself included, have let plants go b/c of new pistils or waiting on more amber trichs, only to learn that healthy plants develop, progress and ripen. Plants with issues do not.
I’m not being critical of your grow…..it’s just something that I’ve experienced with my own grows over the years.
I do an organic grow, so I can’t really speak to your specific nutrients, but I would think a good flush, followed up with a feeding (at the proper ph, and after it dries out a bit) might be all u need.
good luck
Click to expand...
Yes it's an auto.

So i don't really PH because umm.... I've been told by about the same amount of people it matters / doesn't matter. I do every couple / few waterings. Supposedly Fox Farms doesn't need it because it will bring it to where it needs to be.

Temps right now 65 at night with lights out and consistently 74-78 when on. (its winter i am in michigan and the basement is cold)

I put the seed in a baggie on 10/21 and most likely put it in soil 10-23/24. Been in flower since like the second week of october when i went on vacation and my power went out for 4 days. Luckily it wasn't in my tent but in my closet that was next to a window so it wasn't completely dark but when i got home they were already showing the female pistil things growing on it all over and it started flowering not too long after.

I was thinking the same thing on the fox tailing. My first grow 100% fox tailed. It looked almost like sea weed lol. Okay cool. I have noticed on my past 2 grows the trichs kinds start to get cloudy where im like a week away and they never fully cloud up and just kinda stop. This makes sense. Thank you. I was thinking the same thing like they get 80% there and just stop wtf. I waited it out "2 more weeks" for 5 on my last grow and "2 more weeks" for 4 weeks on the one i just chopped the other day. Its like it's a few days from being done.

Now if you want to go back and be critical I will listen lol. IDK why this shit is so hard. I am trying to keep it as simple as possible and I make it almost to the end, plant looks great, then boom it's like i fed the thing poison or something i dont effing know... I do get some good smokable weed from it though so whatever but i want to grow the best buds and my first to second grow there was a tremendous improvement but i am stuck here.

I will post some links/pics of other plants too
 
DanKiller said:
Looks like over feeding and fade all in one, over burnt tips..
Why add nutes when you put 8 cups of ewc in the soil ?
You can run a whole cycle on ewc alone, and if needed then you might add some extra ewc or nutes..
Anyway check runoff ec to see kinda where you at, and go from there
Click to expand...
Last time I watered i gave RO water with no cal mag.... and a couple gallons at that with a good amount of runoff ... because I hadn't done that for like 4 in a row where i was feeding. I fed again yesterday with about 75% strength nutes
 
cannabiscrusader said:
One of the most difficult things to learn is to use the dimmer knob. A lot of new growers will pump the lights (not saying you are) thinking that the nugs need to fill out and there's only 2 or three weeks left. At that point in flowering development, they mostly need time. Give it just enough light at the end to keep it happy.

This is a great opportunity to learn how to read your plants. When you see burn of any kind, first step is to back off the lights to lower transpiration thereby limiting further damage. Then assess through the following days. If the problem continues, your soil is the culprit. If it stops, it's the light/ppfd. I've seen many a grower chasing nutrient issues compounding the problem, when all they need to do is back the light off.
Click to expand...
I've had it on 30% for the past couple months (which is giving the 700 ppfd reading). I did go down and lower it to in between 3rd and 4th knob and put it at 585. Not sure if each click is 10% but it gives 10 different settings so i assume so. Seems like it should be more but i haven't messed with it.

Are the higher settings maybe if i wasn't in a 4xft4ftx7ft and wanted to raise it higher to cover more of an area say like idk an 8x8 or something so I could grow say 8 plants under it vs 4?? I am just wondering why i would ever use them on those settings... not that it matters. Seems I'd burn em right up.
 
Roots and soil don't like fluctuations too much, you should lower your input slowly but firmly.
Flushing ewc mixed soil probably is not gonna achieve this goal, best to do is keep giving water with less until no nutes, and see if the problem persist in the new growth
The burning right now is kinda overboard so just keep lowering the nutes, until you get to plain tap water or even RO if your tap water are too dirty and see how its recouping.

Orin190 said:
Yes it's an auto.

So i don't really PH because umm.... I've been told by about the same amount of people it matters / doesn't matter. I do every couple / few waterings. Supposedly Fox Farms doesn't need it because it will bring it to where it needs to be.
Click to expand...

When you only have ewc in the soil and you put tap or Ro then yes it's not so needed unless you fucked up your soil mix somehow.
Personally I check ph but don't check runoff ec as I just look at the plants, if they can I push them slowly up and if they are looking green and vibrant I don't change nothing, in your case I would push down my ec slowly but drastically all the way to flush
Next time, let the plant tell you when and what he wants, if you mix ewc and the plant grows fine, don't touch nothing haha
Later on it will tell you if it needs more of something.
 
Temps, especially in the root zone. Cooler temps slow things down, your roots and their relationship with the soil. Heat is a catalyst for chemical reactions that drive the whole thing. When the roots are moving slow, they can't keep up with the buds up top so they kinda go on flowering forever like that. Bro science, maybe, but I've seen that a few times, and every time I think cold/wet (root) temps were the culprit.
 
MtRainDog said:
Temps, especially in the root zone. Cooler temps slow things down, your roots and their relationship with the soil. Heat is a catalyst for chemical reactions that drive the whole thing. When the roots are moving slow, they can't keep up with the buds up top so they kinda go on flowering forever like that. Bro science, maybe, but I've seen that a few times, and every time I think cold/wet (root) temps were the culprit.
Click to expand...
So this is the first grow in the winter so maybe Temps but before the tent was 75 to 82 in summer time. I do feel like the soil takes forever to dry out I water typically say Monday and then again on Friday so 3 whole days inbetween....typically.... I check the weight and stick my index finger all the way in the soil to make sure it's dry because I have overwatered one before and I was watering every say on Monday and again at that time typically on thursday....

This is why I add the pearlite and I add the ewc because I had an n deficiency the first grow so I assumed add a little and as I type this maybe I need to cut out the ewc because it was my first ever grow and just use the nutes I am 99% sure I probably fuxked up feeding them. Anyways back to the pearlite .... I meant to put an inch at the bottom of my pots this time (cloth pots) but I forgot. I do set them on a towel after watering to soak up some from the bottom so it doesn't sit there sopping wet and also so it don't drip in my tent. I like it very clean. Could no inch or 2 layer of pearlite at the bottom be causing issues?
 
Bullmark said:
I assume this an auto?
How long has she been growing/flowering?
What are your temps at the top of the canopy?
And are u PH’ing your inputs ?
The foxtailing is minor and not the type of foxtailing that is a bad thing. Some strains will foxtail regardless and it just makes for chunky buds. As a matter of fact, in some countries, they look at it as a desired trait and call it “King’s Crowning”.
The bad form of foxtailing, caused by too much heat and/or light looks different. It’s where the calyces grow right on top of one another and form a string-like structure. You’re not dealing with that.
My guess is you’ve locked something out, possibly ph related and the plant is showing mainly a K def.
If it’s been flowering for an inordinate amount of time, it will likely never achieve a textbook finish.
If that’s not the case, you may be able to get it to ripen up as it should.
Many a grower, myself included, have let plants go b/c of new pistils or waiting on more amber trichs, only to learn that healthy plants develop, progress and ripen. Plants with issues do not.
I’m not being critical of your grow…..it’s just something that I’ve experienced with my own grows over the years.
I do an organic grow, so I can’t really speak to your specific nutrients, but I would think a good flush, followed up with a feeding (at the proper ph, and after it dries out a bit) might be all u need.
good luck
Click to expand...
i've also noticed that the parts of the plant in direct light are a different shade in color, including the buds, compared to the parts that my be farther down. As you can see on this one the growth in the middle/bottom is still green. so i think you're correct however it just blows my mind i should have my light at 25% ....... or less...
 
Last edited:
Let's do this because I guess that plant is fucked and I'll just let it roll and do my best. Here is my grow number 4. Just transplanted a couple days ago from small solo cups. Gooey breeder mom gooey x OMH. 100% FFOF with about 8 cups (less than last time because I may have an n toxicity.. not sure but I figured I can give more n nutes bur can't take out ewc) and about 12 cups of pearlite. Right now they're upstairs in my vloset and I have a heater up here. Trying to keep temps 77 to 82 but I'm way off. I'll turn the heater on and it will get to about 90 sometimes before I turn it off. I do notice though I THINK they like the heat as the leaves start praying and they look good. Trying to keep RH around 60. Here were using an xp3000 bloom plus light. Middle one gets about 275 ppfd and the corners 215. Gotta make due with the closet for a couple more weeks and the tent will open up. Why the 2 humidifiers? This is in my office and the RH is about 25% right now so I need them both to get rh above 45. I think it may be easier to give these a good life from the start vs save the dead???
 

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