Perpetual SOG Experiment - Multi Genetics

bgsixxniner

Well-Known Member
Well said, you know what's up :blsmoke:



Thank you! Can't even blame you. What you have going is obviously working hella well, I wouldn't be worried about a micro sog either. If my girls can make it through looking even somewhat as healthy as yours, I'll be happy.
They'll make it. I can hear the love you have for them through your thread!lol And i love micro grows, thinking about building another lil box. Your tent looks pretty big, should be able to fit alot of 16ozer's in there. I'll be watching til the end. Be patient!!!
 

Ganja.Queen

Well-Known Member
After reading the Foliar spray thread I'm tickled. It flies in the face of many ideas we're typically taught about foliar spray like:
  1. Spraying any type of liquid on your plants under a light will burn them due to light being reflected in the droplets
  2. Foliar feeding daily is going to kill your plants
  3. Healthy plants don't need foliar feeding
  4. Residue will be left on your plant (and lead to 2 or 6)
  5. You can't foliar spray in flowering or you get mold
  6. Foliar feeding in flowering affects bud taste

A lot of people were pissed at the suggestion those weren't necessarily true lol.

I'm open to the idea because there's a few things I discovered on my own are myths.

For one: spraying your plants under lighting does not lead to leaf burn.

I learned about it first in a gardening group when someone explained the intensity of light, even when directly under the sun isn't enough to cause focused heat that would burn leaves. They explained what actually happens is:
  • plants need extra water under intense sun / light / temps and will undergo phases of wilting
  • There's a certain threshold where if the plants are not watered in time, they will experience damage that won't always be immediately apparent.
  • Grower ends up noticing the wilt, waters plants, sees damage and assumes = leaf burn from droplets on leaves.
  • In a fully hydrated plant, lights don't burn the leaves.
I've tested this myself and regularly put my plants directly under lighting after spraying them down and there's no burning.

It’s supposedly best to do just as lights come on (leaves are cool from their dark period). But, I’ve personally sprayed water at different times throughout the light cycle without issue.

In the thread, OP linked many studies in favor of foliar feeding in addition to nutes at watering, resulting in higher yields. I was able to find more papers using Google Scholar.

With misting throughout the day, you can rinse off any residue, just as you would rinse produce before eating.

As for overferting, this seems to be difficult to do with the correct ratio of nutes and plants can regularly (as frequently as daily) take in foliar sprays.

OP foliar sprayed up until week 5 of flower and supplied commercially for medical clients, without it affecting bud taste or acquiring mold. In fact, he made a case for the spray not only reducing the likelihood of mold, but of pests.

TLDR: This my long winded way of saying I'm going to foliar spray in addition to nutes in water and see what happens :blsmoke:

When I have clones ready, I'll do one that receives daily foliar spray until week 5 of flower and the other with only nutes during watering.

2 days in a row I've sprayed it on my veggie garden, houseplants, and ganja...all the girls love it

 
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bgsixxniner

Well-Known Member
After reading the Foliar spray thread I'm tickled. It flies in the face of many ideas we're typically taught about foliar spray like:
  1. Spraying any type of liquid on your plants under a light will burn them due to light being reflected in the droplets
  2. Foliar feeding daily is going to kill your plants
  3. Healthy plants don't need foliar feeding
  4. Residue will be left on your plant (and lead to 2 or 6)
  5. You can't foliar spray in flowering or you get mold
  6. Foliar feeding in flowering affects bud taste

A lot of people were pissed at the suggestion those weren't necessarily true lol.

I'm open to the idea because there's a few things I discovered on my own are myths.

For one: spraying your plants under lighting does not lead to leaf burn.

I learned about it first in a gardening group when someone explained the intensity of light, even when directly under the sun isn't enough to cause focused heat that would burn leaves. They explained what actually happens is:
  • plants need extra water under intense sun / light / temps and will undergo phases of wilting
  • There's a certain threshold where if the plants are not watered in time, they will experience damage that won't always be immediately apparent.
  • Grower ends up noticing the wilt, waters plants, sees damage and assumes = leaf burn from droplets on leaves.
  • In a fully hydrated plant, lights don't burn the leaves.
I've tested this myself and regularly put my plants directly under lighting after spraying them down and there's no burning.

It’s supposedly best to do just as lights come on (leaves are cool from their dark period). But, I’ve personally sprayed water at different times throughout the light cycle without issue.

In the thread, OP linked many studies in favor of foliar feeding in addition to nutes at watering, resulting in higher yields. I was able to find more papers using Google Scholar.

With misting throughout the day, you can rinse off any residue, just as you would rinse produce before eating.

As for overferting, this seems to be difficult to do with the correct ratio of nutes and plants can regularly (as frequently as daily) take in foliar sprays.

OP foliar sprayed up until week 5 of flower and supplied commercially for medical clients, without it affecting bud taste or acquiring mold. In fact, he made a case for the spray not only reducing the likelihood of mold, but of pests.

TLDR: This my long winded way of saying I'm going to foliar spray in addition to nutes in water and see what happens :blsmoke:

When I have clones ready, I'll do one that receives daily foliar spray until week 5 of flower and the other with only nutes during watering.

2 days in a row I've sprayed it on my veggie garden, houseplants, and ganja...all the girls love it

I agree about those two your talking about. The myth about flowering, i always understood that meant late flowering. Which i agree with, spraying heavy dank buds, will increase your chances of mold during dry period and cure. But doesn't always happen, but more probable than not. So i always advise people not to spray in flower unless its early on.
 

Ganja.Queen

Well-Known Member
I agree about those two your talking about. The myth about flowering, i always understood that meant late flowering. Which i agree with, spraying heavy dank buds, will increase your chances of mold during dry period and cure. But doesn't always happen, but more probable than not. So i always advise people not to spray in flower unless its early on.
Avoiding late flowering def makes sense. I know some people who will say only do it in veg. OP said as soon as he gets quarter sized buds, no more foliar spray.

I hadn't paid it no mind in general since I thought it was only useful to quickly address deficiencies while figuring out soil nutes. Never imagined it would increase the yield in addition to solid nutrient schedule...supposedly ~30%.
 

Ganja.Queen

Well-Known Member
Couldn't sleep. Read some research to help get there lol. Found this:

Foliar application of nutrients on medicinal and aromatic plants, the sustainable approaches for higher and better production

Inside the paper are 125 referenced studies supporting the conclusion:

"The positive effects of feeding plants via foliar fertilizers directly to the leaves are reported in many studies, therefore foliar application can be considered as the best tool to give supplemental doses of both minor and major nutrients, stimulants, and even plant hormones.

Foliar application is advisable where additional benefits from the plant's activity can be obtained. The big advantage of foliar treatment is that they can address an urgent need within a relatively short time, and they are therefore especially efficient as a preventative and in some cases curative treatments.

Foliar treatment is not generally intended to replace soil or fertigation applications, but to complement them."

 
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Ganja.Queen

Well-Known Member
New growth on clones but no roots :neutral:

And I didn't go by them not showing through the peat...I removed one and checked the bottom. When I take clones I split the bottom with a razor two ways so it looks like a cross, vertical and horizontal cut in half. Idk if that allowed nutrient uptake despite no roots but it's interesting.

Didn't know that was possible. Cracked a corner and will see in the next few days. Will be 14 days by then.

Before
before.jpg

After
after.jpg

After almost 3 weeks, GG#4 bean popped...and it popped upside down :clap:

Had written it off as a goner, then saw white fuzzy tap root sticking up from the soil under the saran wrap I cover "pots" with until the bean sprouts. Righted it and after a day, it looks like a normal seedling.

Because of all the problems named it "Can't get right."

cantgetright.jpg
 

Ganja.Queen

Well-Known Member
Best video I've found explaining VPD. Glad I watched because I need to be careful with my nute mixes.

And something relieving: "VPD is optimal over a very wide range...we go all the way to 4 in the field, and it's fine." Bruce Bugbee

 

Ganja.Queen

Well-Known Member
Guava Fritter liked the LST. Still dialing in nutes. Learning about VPD helped me understand why N was coming off heavy. Higher VPD = more frequent waterings and I add nutes each watering.

Screenshot 2024-08-13 143103.png
 
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