Soil pH 7.2?!?! PICS INCLUDED
- Thread starter kash959
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Leftyy2k4
Well-Known Member
From the link
Nitrogen (N) Mobile Element and Macro Element
Benefit: Nitrogen plays a very big role in your plants; this one element is directly responsible for production of chlorophyll, photosynthesis, Amino Acids, which are the building block of Proteins. The myriad of enzymes which help the plants growth in leaves stems and the how well the vigor of your plants is.
Nitrogen is the biggest mobile element meaning it can travel anywhere on the plant.
Usually the def will start on the lower to middle part of the plant, and then will usually happen to older leaves first. Then the deficiency will work its way up the plant. Your plant can be green on top, then yellowing on the lower leaves when the deficiency is starting out. Yield will be greatly reduced without good amounts of nitrogen in your plants. Sometimes in bad cases the leaves will turn a purplish color along with the yellowing.
Unlike a magnesium deficiency, nitrogen def will start from the tips and work its way back to the leaf node. Nitrogen and Magnesium get confused. The best way to tell them apart is, nitrogen deficiency starts around the tips and works its way to the back of the leaves, where a magnesium deficiency will cover the entire outer part of the leave and make the entire leaves yellow leaving the veins to stay green. If your plants are having a slow growth rate and have yellowing of the leaves, then most likely it’s a nitrogen deficiency.
Towards the middle to end of flowering stages, the plant will show a nitrogen deficiency almost always. This process is completely normal and just let the plant naturally yellow out as it uses it's stored nutrients. This actually helps you by getting ready for final flushing and then harvesting. At this point DO NOT not use nitrogen to fix the problem. The yellowing leaves will then eventually drop off after the plant is done with them.
4 weeks is not to early imho.
Nitrogen (N) Mobile Element and Macro Element
Benefit: Nitrogen plays a very big role in your plants; this one element is directly responsible for production of chlorophyll, photosynthesis, Amino Acids, which are the building block of Proteins. The myriad of enzymes which help the plants growth in leaves stems and the how well the vigor of your plants is.
Nitrogen is the biggest mobile element meaning it can travel anywhere on the plant.
Usually the def will start on the lower to middle part of the plant, and then will usually happen to older leaves first. Then the deficiency will work its way up the plant. Your plant can be green on top, then yellowing on the lower leaves when the deficiency is starting out. Yield will be greatly reduced without good amounts of nitrogen in your plants. Sometimes in bad cases the leaves will turn a purplish color along with the yellowing.
Unlike a magnesium deficiency, nitrogen def will start from the tips and work its way back to the leaf node. Nitrogen and Magnesium get confused. The best way to tell them apart is, nitrogen deficiency starts around the tips and works its way to the back of the leaves, where a magnesium deficiency will cover the entire outer part of the leave and make the entire leaves yellow leaving the veins to stay green. If your plants are having a slow growth rate and have yellowing of the leaves, then most likely it’s a nitrogen deficiency.
Towards the middle to end of flowering stages, the plant will show a nitrogen deficiency almost always. This process is completely normal and just let the plant naturally yellow out as it uses it's stored nutrients. This actually helps you by getting ready for final flushing and then harvesting. At this point DO NOT not use nitrogen to fix the problem. The yellowing leaves will then eventually drop off after the plant is done with them.
4 weeks is not to early imho.
Leftyy2k4
Well-Known Member
Yeah I love it.
Onelife123
Member
Lime will raise Ph
Hollatchaboy
Well-Known Member
Last post was in 2009. I doubt they're still a member.
Onelife123
Member
I got something like this problem also
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Hollatchaboy
Well-Known Member
Hard to say without knowing all variables, but it looks like the start of Mg def.
Onelife123
Member
Soil ph 7.2. I think it’s locked out
Hollatchaboy
Well-Known Member
If you're checking runoff pH, forget about it. It's not accurate. A slurry test would be more accurate.
Are you growing organically in soil, or are you feeding with bottled nutes?
Onelife123
Member
Well I’m using Bioall365 and I toped dressed about 4 weeks into veg with DTE 484 they are in 2 gallon pots. They are 80 days total and day 33 of flower I toped dressed again before flipping with 1/2 strength 4-8-4 rose and flower and I also gave them that build a bloom and build a flower. By build a soil too. I should have transplanted into a 5 gallon pot but I didn’t I have a small tent 2x2 back then. But around the 3rd week I started seeing that yellowing in between the veins of leaves all through out worse on bottom of plant. So that’s when I did a run off. 1200 Ppm and 7.2 Ph. Everytime I go into flower around the same week I run into problems. I’m not that experienced maybe 12 plants total in 5 years. I stoped for a few years came down with cancer and was given 6 months to live 3 years ago so I started growing again.
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Hollatchaboy
Well-Known Member
Well damn. Sorry to hear your diagnosis. I hope the best for you.
Now let's see if we can figure out your plant problem.
When growing organically, in a living soil, its best to use a large container. Dry amendments take a while to break down. Some take a few weeks, some take a few years, depending on what it is. A large root mass, in a small volume of soil, will deplete the soil of nutrients, faster than microbes can produce them.
Keeping microbial life (bacteria, fungus) thriving, is essential. They break down the amendments. They also help keep the pH in control.
That being said, I don't believe your pH is off. Most likely the plant is depleting nutrients, before their getting produced.
You could try spraying the leaves with epsom salt. See if that helps. The leaves that are affected, won't get real green again. Watch for others starting to fade.
Onelife123
Member
thanks I was thinking the same but I wasn’t sure about getting it on the flowers. It’s also really humid here again. About a week ago I got tired of banging my head against the wall and I transplanted 2 Into 5 gallon bags. They look a little happier.
Hollatchaboy
Well-Known Member
Oh shit. That's right. FLOWERS. Don't spray them then. Just add some to your next watering.
Onelife123
Member
making a tea. Compost earthwormcastings Aszomite . . ? Bad spelling some fish and kelp some.azomite and what ever else maybe the kitchen sink lol
Onelife123
Member
thank you and good night ttyl I hope.
Onelife123
Member
Ok hello again. I want to make the switch from bag soil types like FFOF
To Coco and perlite 70/30 and feed with jacks 321.
. I went and bought a broke of Cana coco rinsed it and I think I buffered it with a couple shots of cal mag. Honestly I can’t remember it’s been sitting in a 10 gallon tote so long I forgot but it’s still damp. My question is what should the ph be. I checked mine because I have some seeds that just sprouted I want to add to it ?? My ph was 7
To Coco and perlite 70/30 and feed with jacks 321.
. I went and bought a broke of Cana coco rinsed it and I think I buffered it with a couple shots of cal mag. Honestly I can’t remember it’s been sitting in a 10 gallon tote so long I forgot but it’s still damp. My question is what should the ph be. I checked mine because I have some seeds that just sprouted I want to add to it ?? My ph was 7
Roy O'Bannon
Well-Known Member
Coco is hydro. Hydro ph 5.5-6.5 so aim for the middle at 6 going in.
Water to 10-20% runoff.
Use some florakleen or something like that to flush the salts if needed. If your runoff becomes way too high ec or you think you getting in trouble.
Don't let coco dry out.
Water to 10-20% runoff.
Use some florakleen or something like that to flush the salts if needed. If your runoff becomes way too high ec or you think you getting in trouble.
Don't let coco dry out.
Onelife123
Member
You say because your in soil ? I’m confused sorry. Let’s take FFOF Soil for a example , that’s basically peat coco and perlite and nutrition, what’s the difference if you just in coco and perliteCause your in soil. It holds the ph alot better than soiless mediums. Along ass you are phing the water you feed it will be fine.
its up to you what you want to do. If you wanna feed them some veg nutes its up to you. I would not. They look good to me. I have 4 plants all 4-5 weeks of age. Looking like yours.
Here is a pic.
