Help with dwc

Tomatoesonly

Well-Known Member
This is why AUTOs are terrible in these situations. They have their own time table that nothing you do can fix. Once sprouted the clock starts ticking.

With normal plants, I would pull that small one a veg the others a little longer to make up the area. Then rehab the smaller one in another area till it was ready then fire it off. But NOOOOOO, not with AUTOs.
 
Yea I hear you on that. Appreciate the advice. If she isn't any better than the way she is now, by sunday I'm going to pop another bean. That will definitely give me a staggered harvest which will probably be better in the long run for me anyway. I'll still let the other one go and see what happens. My first dirt grow, which was my first and only indoor grow I ran into a little problem germinating 2 seeds. So I pop a couple more. I end up with 7 plants and my tent was packed full. I kinda didn't want that to happen again. I started with 4 this time. I'll tell you what though one of the ones that I had problems with I just kept babying it finally it took off. It was like 2 weeks behind easy maybe 3. It ended up being the biggest and most frosted out of all of them.
 
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Don't know if it's a calmag issue or what. I didn'twant to add or take away anything before I got some advise from someone who might of had same issue. Maybe phosphorus. What do you all think???
 
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Did water change on 19th. It was 5.8 ph,68f water temp,1.5ec,750ppm. On 21st 5.9ph,820ppm, added water took it to760ppm. today 5.7ph 72f,720ppm
 
Is it ok to just add ph'd water in between changes and no nutes. I'm changing out every week. 5 gal buckets no res. Another question I have is, like all the forums and charts out there with ec,ppm that tell me what my ec,ppm should be. Example750ppm-1.5ec is that total. I guess what I'm asking is my tap comes out like 220-230. The chart says I should have an ec or ppm of 1.5-750. Is that with my tap added to it for that nummber or do I add the 750 to my tap 220 and come out to970.????
 

futurebanjo

Well-Known Member
Is it ok to just add ph'd water in between changes and no nutes. I'm changing out every week. 5 gal buckets no res. Another question I have is, like all the forums and charts out there with ec,ppm that tell me what my ec,ppm should be. Example750ppm-1.5ec is that total. I guess what I'm asking is my tap comes out like 220-230. The chart says I should have an ec or ppm of 1.5-750. Is that with my tap added to it for that nummber or do I add the 750 to my tap 220 and come out to970.????

Is it ok to just add ph'd water in between - Yes

Example750ppm-1.5ec is that total - yes the total, so if your tap water is EC 0.5 and your aiming for EC 1.0 (for example) then you just want to increace overall EC by 0.5 to make a total of 1.0.
 
Like if the chart says in my plant stage they should be getting say 750ppm or 1.5ec. Do I add that number to my tap that comes out at 220 and shoot for 970?
 

OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
Like if the chart says in my plant stage they should be getting say 750ppm or 1.5ec. Do I add that number to my tap that comes out at 220 and shoot for 970?
Gh trio w/calmag and hydrogard. Light is ac infinity ionframe evo 6 500watt. Intensity is on 70% about 20" from canopy.
Do you have a means of measuring ppfd? Without personal experience with he specific light it's hard to guess what 70% @ 20" is actually beaming your plants with. I have a hunch it may be too intense for the stage of the plants.
@220 ppm Tap I'm not sure why you would even need "Cal-mag". Micro has plenty of calcium.
If it were me I'd drop to just the 3 part @1.3ec and lower the light intensity a bit and see how they fair
1.3 including your tap. :peace:
 
No on the light meter.im pretty sure I got a light diagram of some type with the light that tells me them numbers you are asking about. I have to go look for that. I'm pretty sure it had like sqares of different colors with numbers and distance away numbers. Dumbass me should of had that out.
 
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