Hydroponics Question and Answer NewGrowth Style

[onthedl0008]

NEWGROWTH! Nice thread bro.. I was curious ive seen and heard alot of things and im really tightening down my grow. My question is what are the actuall ppm levels people should strive for in the different stages especially latter stages of flower?
Any help would be appreciated

 

[curious.george]

note: marchold and curious.george are both me. I just changed to a cooler forum handle.

It must be those nutes and that semi-organic set-up you have going. Sounds like yummy buds though.

So you think its all the beneficial fungi and bacteria eating the sugars and upping the PH?

But seriously it sounds like you are running a heavy salt solution and your plants roots are not using it all. How is the PPM flux in your res?

My PPM stays amazingly stable. I use 1000 ppm or 1200 ppm and the PPM does not drift more than 100ppm in 2 weeks. It almost seems hard to believe that when there is only 10 gallons left it is still at 1250ppm.

Why not use a drip system with coco?

because drip emitters can get clogged an I like to keep it simple. Would drip be better? I read somewhere that when coco dries it ups the ph? Is this why?

Try flushing out the system with water and then adjusting your nutrient solution strength. The key is the plants use water and nutrients at the same rate, if your PPM levels do not show this adjust nutrient strength accordingly. Getting this just right will stabilize your Ph.

Hmm... Is it not already right?

Thanks!

I was thinking of stopping with the beneficial fungi and doing my next grow with h2o2.


As to the drip system.

 

[NewGrowth]

NEWGROWTH! Nice thread bro.. I was curious ive seen and heard alot of things and im really tightening down my grow. My question is what are the actuall ppm levels people should strive for in the different stages especially latter stages of flower?
Any help would be appreciated

Nutrient concentration is dependent on plant strain, size and many other environmental factors. For example Ak-47 will not tolerate the same nutrient levels as White Widow. Here is a good guide to determine what nutrient concentration you should be running.
1.Water level drops PPM goes up: Drop your nutrient strength in relationship to the PPM rise.
2. Water level drops PPM stays the same: You may be able to fine tune you nutrient strength, if growth is vigorous leave it alone.
3. Water level drops PPM drops: Raise you nutrient strength in relationship too PPM drop.

note: marchold and curious.george are both me. I just changed to a cooler forum handle.
So you think its all the beneficial fungi and bacteria eating the sugars and upping the PH?

Maybe, I have not worked with coco myself and have limited experience with organic hydro, it was just too frustrating and unpredictable to me.

Daylight photosynthesis produces hydrogen ions which can cause the nutrient acidity to increase (lowering the pH). At dusk photosynthesis stops and the plants increase their rate of respiration and this coupled with the respiration of micro organisms and the decomposition of organic matter uses up the hydrogen ions so the acidity of the solution tends to decrease ( pH rises )

Can you up the nitrogen ratio in you res a bit? See if that helps, I think the microbes are using up nitrogen faster than the plants and upping your Nitrogen content may help stabilize your Ph. Maintain the same PPM but add more nitrogen.

My PPM stays amazingly stable. I use 1000 ppm or 1200 ppm and the PPM does not drift more than 100ppm in 2 weeks. It almost seems hard to believe that when there is only 10 gallons left it is still at 1250ppm.

Well eliminate that possibility

because drip emitters can get clogged an I like to keep it simple. Would drip be better? I read somewhere that when coco dries it ups the ph? Is this why?

Its possible but I always thought quality coco-coir was treated and was a rather inert media.

Hmm... Is it not already right?
Thanks!
I was thinking of stopping with the beneficial fungi and doing my next grow with h2o2.

Sounds right to me . . .
H202 will not work well with coco, it breaks down too quickly.

As to the drip system.

I was just wondering, keep the flood table if its working!
Good luck man! I'll see if I can find some more info about coco, I think a buddy of mine is using it I'll ask him.

 

[onthedl0008]

THanks new growth thats about where im at...lol u deffinately if anything just kinda gave me a boost of confidence tho. And maybe some ego to.

 

[Ramon66]

I need to know which nute work best for a flood and drain system. I am currently using GH micro and grow.
I was running PH at 6.5, but getting what appears to be just slight nitrogene def at tips and edges. clones were 2" whenarrive, 3weeks and 3 days later most are around 12" some a bit bigger some a bit smaller. over all look very good and healthy just trying to get everything perfect before swtching to bloom.

oh I dropped PH to 6 today, to see what happens nutes are at full now, but this has been a problem since the start when nute where at 1/2.

 

[Ramon66]

just incase here is what I am working with. flood and drain.
co2, 1700ppm avarage.
heat 88.
RH 64.
fans on every 1/2 hr for 15 min.
exuast and intake every 12 hrs. was more freequent but exuast removes the co2 way too fats. fans are fine.
grow medium hydroton clay
gh micro
gh grow
and gh bloom when switching. I flush every 2 weeks. will flush on sunday again.
problems lower leaves some yellow all others green with tiny bit of yellow on some and tips slightly currled.

plans.
add bushmaster manually once a week for 2 weeks, 2 weeks into flower.
use gravity till final flush.
add molasses for final 2 weeks in plain water.

 

[NewGrowth]

I need to know which nute work best for a flood and drain system. I am currently using GH micro and grow.

The best nutrient brand is the one that works for you. I use Ionic brand nutrients myself. General Hydroponics gives good results.

I was running PH at 6.5, but getting what appears to be just slight nitrogene def at tips and edges. clones were 2" whenarrive, 3weeks and 3 days later most are around 12" some a bit bigger some a bit smaller. over all look very good and healthy just trying to get everything perfect before swtching to bloom.

You Ph should be 5.8 in hrdro

oh I dropped PH to 6 today, to see what happens nutes are at full now, but this has been a problem since the start when nute where at 1/2.

Do you have a PPM meter?

just incase here is what I am working with. flood and drain.
co2, 1700ppm avarage.
heat 88.
RH 64.
fans on every 1/2 hr for 15 min.
exuast and intake every 12 hrs. was more freequent but exuast removes the co2 way too fats. fans are fine.
grow medium hydroton clay
gh micro
gh grow
and gh bloom when switching. I flush every 2 weeks. will flush on sunday again.
problems lower leaves some yellow all others green with tiny bit of yellow on some and tips slightly currled.

plans.
add bushmaster manually once a week for 2 weeks, 2 weeks into flower.
use gravity till final flush.
add molasses for final 2 weeks in plain water.

There should be no need to flush the system every two weeks if you are running correct nutrient concentrations. Just change out you solution every two weeks and top of with fresh water between changes.
I would not use molasses either.

 

[Ramon66]

The best nutrient brand is the one that works for you. I use Ionic brand nutrients myself. General Hydroponics gives good results.



You Ph should be 5.8 in hrdro



Do you have a PPM meter? no I use a tester daily. it is not exact. it goes by color.




There should be no need to flush the system every two weeks if you are running correct nutrient concentrations. Just change out you solution every two weeks and top of with fresh water between changes.
I would not use molasses either.

whats wrong with molasses?

and thanks for the info.

 

[flipsidesw]

Sup NewGrowth!

My hydro guy started carrying that ionic stuff youve been talking about. He also started carrying that Cutting edge solutions. The ces is ultra cheap. 10 bucks a quart. IM trying to find the easiest nutes to use for the cheapest. I know you like that ionic. I was just curious about that Ces. You know anything about it?

Do you run any bloom boosters at all?

 

[Ramon66]

ok went and bought a 3 in 1 PH PPM and temp meter.
reduced my PH to 5.6 figured it will leach up by tomarrow.
set my PPM to 1500 in full veg. but my res temp was 82F.
my room temps are 88-90 lights on 74-76 lights off with 1500-1700PPM co2 and 64-66RH. co2 off when lights are off.
I drainned half the water and added fresh water but temp only came dow to 75. it will go up quick. is this too high, and if so, how do I reduce water temp?
should I put res outside room?

 

[NewGrowth]

whats wrong with molasses?
and thanks for the info.

Molasses works by providing beneficial microbes with food. Works very well in organic soil grows. In hydro you are asking for trouble, gunked up pumps and microbial nasties taking over. Just keep it clean and simple with H202.

Sup NewGrowth!
My hydro guy started carrying that ionic stuff youve been talking about. He also started carrying that Cutting edge solutions. The ces is ultra cheap. 10 bucks a quart. IM trying to find the easiest nutes to use for the cheapest. I know you like that ionic. I was just curious about that Ces. You know anything about it?

Do you run any bloom boosters at all?

Never heard of Ces, do you have a link? At ten bucks a quart why not try it out though. If it suck you can always use it on your house plants.
No bloom boosters here, Ionic boost if I feel they need it. Just nutrients and H202 for me
Glad to se you still lurking bro!

ok went and bought a 3 in 1 PH PPM and temp meter.
reduced my PH to 5.6 figured it will leach up by tomarrow.
set my PPM to 1500 in full veg. but my res temp was 82F.
my room temps are 88-90 lights on 74-76 lights off with 1500-1700PPM co2 and 64-66RH. co2 off when lights are off.
I drainned half the water and added fresh water but temp only came dow to 75. it will go up quick. is this too high, and if so, how do I reduce water temp?
should I put res outside room?

Hey man, yes you can make your own water chiller, just pick up 1/4" copper tubing and make a coil. Fit garden hose to either end by attaching fittings and using hose clamps. They sell all this stuff at the hardware store. Then attach one end to running cold water. The cool water flowing through the copper tubes will cool your solution. Someone in here was also looking into using a liquid computer cooling kit to drop res temps as well. (I posted this earlier). If you are on a budget freeze a bunch of water bottles and drop them in your res. And yes 82 is too high, the higher the reservoir temps the less oxygen your nutrient solution will hold. These means root rot , not good.

Sounds like you need some heat control too 90F is pushing the limit.

 

[Ramon66]

Hey man, yes you can make your own water chiller, just pick up 1/4" copper tubing and make a coil. Fit garden hose to either end by attaching fittings and using hose clamps. They sell all this stuff at the hardware store. Then attach one end to running cold water. The cool water flowing through the copper tubes will cool your solution. Someone in here was also looking into using a liquid computer cooling kit to drop res temps as well. (I posted this earlier). If you are on a budget freeze a bunch of water bottles and drop them in your res. And yes 82 is too high, the higher the reservoir temps the less oxygen your nutrient solution will hold. These means root rot , not good. so even when its a flood and drain? the roots stay sitting in clay with no water just air, then get wtaer for 20min and drain again.they are feeding 4 times a day. so they get about 5+ hrs inbetween feeding with just air. hydroton doesnt hold any water.

Sounds like you need some heat control too 90F is pushing the limit.

I have read that as long as co2 is at 1500-1700, temps can reach 95 with no detrimental effects. infact they say to run higher temps 90-95 with higher humidity as high as 95%. the humidty seems high to me so I keep it in the mid 60s. I will drop the temps to 84-88
I can control just about everything in this room. except water temp.
I am going to do like you said and freez bottles. add at night and in the am.

and thanks again for all the help.

 

[NewGrowth]

I have read that as long as co2 is at 1500-1700, temps can reach 95 with no detrimental effects. infact they say to run higher temps 90-95 with higher humidity as high as 95%. the humidty seems high to me so I keep it in the mid 60s. I will drop the temps to 84-88
I can control just about everything in this room. except water temp.
I am going to do like you said and freez bottles. add at night and in the am.

and thanks again for all the help.

You are correct I forgot you had a flood a drain with hydroton. You can have higher temps with CO2 yes. Slightly higher temps with CO2 80's seem to give even better growth as well. Its interesting . . .

The only concern with the high rez temp could be bacterial growth. Are you using H202? It seems if you can maintain a sterile rez with H202 temps will not be much of a concern.

Lower humidity is better especially in flowering, it promotes better bud density and reduces the chance of moldy buds.

 

[Ramon66]

well after reading all your posts, I realized I needed h2o2. so I ordered a couple gallons. I will suppliment tomarrow with the 3% till the 35% comes in.
and I will be dropping down to 50s RH when I see bud. I am going to stay in the 80s from now on with temp. thanks so much for all the help. I will let you know how things progress.

 

[NewGrowth]

well after reading all your posts, I realized I needed h2o2. so I ordered a couple gallons. I will suppliment tomarrow with the 3% till the 35% comes in.
and I will be dropping down to 50s RH when I see bud. I am going to stay in the 80s from now on with temp. thanks so much for all the help. I will let you know how things progress.

Sounds good man I have a feeling things are going to progress very well

 

[greenacres]

excellent thread NG learned alot thanks

 

[Secret Grower]

Hey NG. I'm using Ionic Growth right now my plants are 2 red diesels and 2 blue cheeses they are 2.5 weeks old. My ph is 5.8 and ec is 2.6 my tap water has a ppm of 550. The lower leaves had some heat stress at first as well as some nute burn I think. I have changed my reservoir at 2 weeks when the ph rose to 6.3. I hear you talking about a two part ionic series. Do you mean the Ionic Growth and the Ionic Bloom? Do you use the Boost?

Any comments on the plants would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks man you ROCK!!!!

OK NG here I was just over a month ago and here I am today 2.5 weeks into flowering at the time of the photo.

Questions: How often do you add 35% h2o2 I have been adding it 1 a week but here I need to add it twice a week... Yes/No?

I'm using Ionic nutes at 980 ppms into the 3 week of flowering. Should I bump that up to about 1500?

400W HPS DWC 4 plants 2 red diesels 2 blue cheeses avg temp 79 f. ph 5.8

Thanks again!

Here they are at 2.5 weeks into flowering.

 

[Secret Grower]

Oooops my bad...

 

[magikal chronik]

Hey NG,

I have a quick question. Whats the best way to "flush my AG res.? It's been almost 3 weeks and I need to flush it I believe, to make sure nothing is clogged up or anyhting growing in their. Thanks

 

[NewGrowth]

OK NG here I was just over a month ago and here I am today 2.5 weeks into flowering at the time of the photo.

Questions: How often do you add 35% h2o2 I have been adding it 1 a week but here I need to add it twice a week... Yes/No?

I'm using Ionic nutes at 980 ppms into the 3 week of flowering. Should I bump that up to about 1500?

400W HPS DWC 4 plants 2 red diesels 2 blue cheeses avg temp 79 f. ph 5.8

Thanks again!

Here they are at 2.5 weeks into flowering.

I just add it when I change my rez every two weeks. If I run into serious problems high concentrations can help clean out the rez 10ml/L but notmally its just 35% @ 1.7ml/L everytime I change the rez out. You can add it every week if the roots look unhealthy.

Bump up your nutes to 1200 PPM and see how they respond. Watch the PPM drop, if they like it bump them up a bit more.

Oooops my bad...

Nice looking plants.

Hey NG,

I have a quick question. Whats the best way to "flush my AG res.? It's been almost 3 weeks and I need to flush it I believe, to make sure nothing is clogged up or anyhting growing in their. Thanks

I'm not sure what you mean. Change out your nutrient solution completely every two weeks and top off with fresh PH adjusted water in between changes.