Mistasmoke
Well-Known Member
pic........
Please..anyone..help!!..i think she's dying!
- Thread starter Mistasmoke
- Start date
panhead
Well-Known Member
Hey bud,im sorry to have let you down for the last few days,i let myself get preoccupied with a test grow im running & the follow up thread to the test grow & put you on the back burner,i apologize.
First off the very lower leaves dying off are 100% normal,this happens from the sun leaf exhausting its resources & living out its usefullness,these are the leaves i see that are dead & crispy,there is no worry there as it is normal.
Anyhow i see two problems in the leaves,if im wrong here maybe another grower will correct me but im sure im not wrong,what im seeing is something i was afraid of right from the start with the sensi products that i am not familar with.
The leaves that have spotty patches of yellow are nute burned from recieving too much fertilizer,in the 2nd to last set of pics i can see the burn,you cant fix nute burned leaves,what you can do is to stop any further damage to those leaves & prevent other leaves from being damaged.
First thing you need to put on hold the planned budding & get the plant back in good health,entering the flowering cycle with a nute burn going on will make for a hard time budding.
You need to stop all fertilization & flush the plant asap,you'll need to thouroughly rinse all the soil using atleast twice the volume of water as you have soil,preferabally three times the volume of water to soil,if you have one gallon of soil you need to use atleast two gallons of water t flush,again preferabally three gallons,wait until the plant needs watering before flushing or you risk over watering & causing another health issue,add water slowly & allow the soil to absorb the water,then slowly add more water,continue adding water that is at room temp,its not very important that the first half of the flushing water is proper ph but it is very important that the last half of the flushing water is ph'ed properly.
For the rest of the veg cycle you shouldnt add any fertilizer at all to the grow,just plain ph'ed water & the runoff water should be tested after each watering to be sure you dont have any ph issues which im pretty sure you dont have at this point.
The heat issue we've discussed will also need attention,the pics you show where the leaf tips are starting to curl is an early warning sign of heat stress,severe heat stress usually starts near the top of the plant closest to the light but in a hot enviroment it can & will happen at lower levels of the plant,it dont look severe at this point but it does need to be addressed & temps lowered,even a degree or two will help.
We have a problem thats going to take a while to get right,i have zero experience using the fertilizers you have & the guess i made going from the manufacturers ppm chart was a bad guess,this is what caused the nute burn,when you do start fertilizing again nutrient strength will need to be lowered by 75% from current levels,if needed you can raise levels as needed.
Flush the plant,lower temps & only water with plain ph'ed water,no nutrients at all,its going to take a week or two to get back on track.
First off the very lower leaves dying off are 100% normal,this happens from the sun leaf exhausting its resources & living out its usefullness,these are the leaves i see that are dead & crispy,there is no worry there as it is normal.
Anyhow i see two problems in the leaves,if im wrong here maybe another grower will correct me but im sure im not wrong,what im seeing is something i was afraid of right from the start with the sensi products that i am not familar with.
The leaves that have spotty patches of yellow are nute burned from recieving too much fertilizer,in the 2nd to last set of pics i can see the burn,you cant fix nute burned leaves,what you can do is to stop any further damage to those leaves & prevent other leaves from being damaged.
First thing you need to put on hold the planned budding & get the plant back in good health,entering the flowering cycle with a nute burn going on will make for a hard time budding.
You need to stop all fertilization & flush the plant asap,you'll need to thouroughly rinse all the soil using atleast twice the volume of water as you have soil,preferabally three times the volume of water to soil,if you have one gallon of soil you need to use atleast two gallons of water t flush,again preferabally three gallons,wait until the plant needs watering before flushing or you risk over watering & causing another health issue,add water slowly & allow the soil to absorb the water,then slowly add more water,continue adding water that is at room temp,its not very important that the first half of the flushing water is proper ph but it is very important that the last half of the flushing water is ph'ed properly.
For the rest of the veg cycle you shouldnt add any fertilizer at all to the grow,just plain ph'ed water & the runoff water should be tested after each watering to be sure you dont have any ph issues which im pretty sure you dont have at this point.
The heat issue we've discussed will also need attention,the pics you show where the leaf tips are starting to curl is an early warning sign of heat stress,severe heat stress usually starts near the top of the plant closest to the light but in a hot enviroment it can & will happen at lower levels of the plant,it dont look severe at this point but it does need to be addressed & temps lowered,even a degree or two will help.
We have a problem thats going to take a while to get right,i have zero experience using the fertilizers you have & the guess i made going from the manufacturers ppm chart was a bad guess,this is what caused the nute burn,when you do start fertilizing again nutrient strength will need to be lowered by 75% from current levels,if needed you can raise levels as needed.
Flush the plant,lower temps & only water with plain ph'ed water,no nutrients at all,its going to take a week or two to get back on track.
Mistasmoke
Well-Known Member
...at least I know what's wrong now. I'll do the flushing tonigh before she goes to sleep. I'll let you know the results tomorrow. I ordered a bunch a stuff for the heat issues also so that prob should be corrected by Friday or Monday the latest hopefully. Thanks buddy!
Mistasmoke
Well-Known Member
she's looking better today after the flushing and I just received the tracking no.'s for my order so the heat issue should be addressed by this upcoming Monday. So just water with regular ph balanced water when she's bone dry until she's all better again right? I've been watering like every other day thus far. I also got a timer and syringe and a bunch of other stuff I know I'll need coming. I'll let you know everything I got when it's here. I'll post pics later on tonight..
panhead
Well-Known Member
Cool,sounds like a plan.
You might want to think about buying/ordering some different fertilizer seeing that neither one of us knows for sure the amounts your supposed to use.
We burned that plant by not giving it the right amount of fertilizer,ive looked high & low for better instructions on that stuff so we dont burn it again,all i keep comming up with is that ppm chart we looked at which tells us shit about soil.
Maybe shoot the manufacturer an email telling them that their lack of instructions is burning your plants & that you'd like them to send you a mixing table that applies to soil grows.
Mistasmoke
Well-Known Member
...I'll send it later on today. The plants looking alot better though. I'll let you know if I receive anything from them..
Reeny
Well-Known Member
http://www.bcnorthernlights.com/manuals/Nutrient instructions Advanced.pdf
Is the schedule I found. Hope its what you need.
Is the schedule I found. Hope its what you need.
Mistasmoke
Well-Known Member
but no. I had come across this particular link before and it only explains how to apply Sensi Grow to Hydro setups. I'm planting in soil and need a mixing chart because I burned my plant inadvertently by giving her the wrong quantities of nutes. If you find anything out let me know though..
Mistasmoke
Well-Known Member
Thank you for your inquiry
All our products and formulas are used in exactly the same way in all mediums, mix the nutrient solution including supplements that you are using and adjust the pH to the level ideal for the medium that you are using. When growing in soil adjust the pH to 6.3.
The feeding schedules are also the same; the difference is in the method of application. Below is a general guideline to feeding your plants.
Feeding Guideline
Dont start feeding nutrients to rooting clones or seedlings such as the 2 part Sensi A & B (Grow) until they develop 3 or 4 sets of new leaves.
Until they develop 3 or 4 sets of new (clones)/true (seedlings) leaves feed them only water. You can foliar spray them once per week with Jumpstart or 1/4 strength B-52 (1 mL/liter) until then. You can also add 1/4 strength applications of Piranha, Tarantula and Voodoo Juice, to the water that you will use in the root zone.
Clones seedlings need high levels of moisture in the medium
(80% -85% is good 100% is too much)
The also like a warmer environment in the root zone 70 F 80 F.
Entering the Vegetative stage, Use the Rooted Clones / Seedlings schedule in the nutrient calculator for the first two weeks of feeding)
Week 1.At 3 or 4 sets of new leaves mix nutrient solution at 300 ppm
Week 2 mix nutrient solution at 600 ppm
Switch to Vegetative Stage feeding schedule if you are going to vegetate the plants longer than two weeks, the calculator goes up to another 8 weeks.
Week 3 mix nutrient solution at 600 - 900 ppm depending on size
Week 4 mix nutrient solution at 900 -1200 ppm depending on size
When entering the Bloom Stage follow the medium feeding strength. (If growing indoors the bloom stage starts when the lights are switched to twelve hours of darkness and twelve hour of light).
Week 1- mix nutrient solution at 1000 ppm
Week 2 - mix nutrient solution at 1200 ppm
Week 3- mix nutrient solution at 1400 ppm
Week 4- mix nutrient solution at 1600 ppm
Week 5- mix nutrient solution at 1400 ppm
Week 6- mix nutrient solution at 1200 ppm
Week 7- Flush
The nutrient calculator is set for a 7 week strain; it can be customized for plants that require more than 7 weeks to complete their flower stage. Just click add a week.
The amounts suggested in the nutrient calculator are the total nutrient to feed the plant for a whole week, not the amount to give them per feeding.
If you want to give your plants nutrient solution more than once per week, divide the amount (total ppm) for the week by the number of feedings that you want to give them to calculate the ppm per feeding.
Plants may increase their over all size up to 2/3, during the bloom stage, for this reason the feeding schedules in the calculator increases the strength of the nutrient solution every week, reaching the highest concentration on the fourth week of bloom. If plant needs longer than 6 weeks of feeding (7 week strain, the 7Th week is a flush week), repeat week 4 for each extra week.
Always reduce the amount that you feed your plants during the last two weeks of feeding.
Overfeeding
If the very tip of the leaves gets yellow it is an early sign of overfeeding. Reduce the solution strength slightly (100 150 ppm), if not increase slightly.
Deficiencies
If the margins or any other part of the leaves yellows off it is a possible sign of deficiencies. Check pH in medium and reservoir, if the pH is off from the ideal levels look out conditions may develop. At first symptom of a deficiency apply rule # 1 (When in doubt flush them out).
If growing in a medium that takes some time to dry up, allow the medium to dry and feeding them plain pH adjusted water when they are ready. If growing in a re circulating system, find a way to give them only pH adjusted water for the length of a light cycle, a second reservoir just for water may be a simple solution, then it is just a matter of moving the pump over, maintain the regular water pump cycle during the flush.
pH conditions in medium
In Soil/Soiless (Soil or Soiless mixtures that may also contain peat moss but not Coco Coir) adjust the pH to 6.3
In Hydro (It includes products such as Rockwool, Hydroton Rock, and Lava Rock) adjust to 5.6
In Coco Coir adjust the ph to 5.8 6.0. You may want to supplement with SensiCal when growing in coco with a base nutrient that in not specific to growing in coco
Root damage
Another possibility is damage in the root zone, check for the possibility of root rot, or insect larvae as potential causes for root deterioration, brown, mushy, smelly roots are a good indicator of root damage. Hydrogen peroxide is an efficient way to destroy root rot causing bacteria.
Mixing instructions
If using the base nutrient stand alone, mix nutrients according to instructions on the bottle.
If also using supplements follow feeding schedule in the nutrient calculator.
http://www.advancednutrients.com/nutcalc3public/nutrient_calculator.html
here's part 1 of an answer I got to my question about a mixing chart for soil from the Advanced Nutrients email tech support...I say part one because the guy was just to technical with his explanation and I had no clue what he was talking about. Well, maybe a little but I'm was basically like...What? Maybe you could understand it better...and the plant is pretty much dead I think. I took pics of her so you can judge but basically I got the products I ordered in and set everything up. I then decided to transplant her into the new soil and perlite I got. I think that was a huge mistake on my part since she looks like crap now.
I mixed fifty percent perlite and fifty percent soil but looking at the ingredients in the soil I think the extra perlite was unnecessary. I put a lot in there. And the mixture of soil/perlite is really light in weight and texture. Almost grainy like. But man does that stuff stay wet. I dumped a gallon of Ph balanced water into the soil before transplanting with transplant solution and the stuff didn't even drain out. Maybe it's the vermiculite or something like that in the soil? And that soil says it has a wetting agent. Why would I want the soil to stay wet for days on end? That's not good right? Anyways, I got some cloning solution with my order. Maybe I could take a clone off this mother and start a new plant? With the soil I ordered alone in a red cup like you said before? I just don't have all the stuff you mentioned for cloning and was wondering if I could just use the solution I bought and put her in a cup uder the light and see what happens. What do you suggest at this point? As I said, I think she's slowly dying or she's just over watered to the point of dying because the soil wont dry out. Argh. I thought that soil was the answer to the soil dilemma once and for all and it seems to have made the problem worse instead. Anyways, I got some low grade seeds laying around. If worse comes to worse I guess I'll just have to start over. At least I got better equipment now to contro temp. and lighting and such. I'll post the pics after I post the answer to my question to ANutrients since I'm bound to need it sooner or later. Let me know if you can decipher this guys answers. They're good I think, I just can't for the life of me read it through completely without becoming insanely frustrated....Give it a go?
I hope that this is the answer that you are looking for. If you have further questions please contact us via e-mail or by calling our tech support toll free line at 1 800 640 9605.
Regards
AN Tech Support
I hope that this is the answer that you are looking for. If you have further questions please contact us via e-mail or by calling our tech support toll free line at 1 800 640 9605.
Regards
AN Tech Support
All our products and formulas are used in exactly the same way in all mediums, mix the nutrient solution including supplements that you are using and adjust the pH to the level ideal for the medium that you are using. When growing in soil adjust the pH to 6.3.
The feeding schedules are also the same; the difference is in the method of application. Below is a general guideline to feeding your plants.
Feeding Guideline
Dont start feeding nutrients to rooting clones or seedlings such as the 2 part Sensi A & B (Grow) until they develop 3 or 4 sets of new leaves.
Until they develop 3 or 4 sets of new (clones)/true (seedlings) leaves feed them only water. You can foliar spray them once per week with Jumpstart or 1/4 strength B-52 (1 mL/liter) until then. You can also add 1/4 strength applications of Piranha, Tarantula and Voodoo Juice, to the water that you will use in the root zone.
Clones seedlings need high levels of moisture in the medium
(80% -85% is good 100% is too much)
The also like a warmer environment in the root zone 70 F 80 F.
Entering the Vegetative stage, Use the Rooted Clones / Seedlings schedule in the nutrient calculator for the first two weeks of feeding)
Week 1.At 3 or 4 sets of new leaves mix nutrient solution at 300 ppm
Week 2 mix nutrient solution at 600 ppm
Switch to Vegetative Stage feeding schedule if you are going to vegetate the plants longer than two weeks, the calculator goes up to another 8 weeks.
Week 3 mix nutrient solution at 600 - 900 ppm depending on size
Week 4 mix nutrient solution at 900 -1200 ppm depending on size
When entering the Bloom Stage follow the medium feeding strength. (If growing indoors the bloom stage starts when the lights are switched to twelve hours of darkness and twelve hour of light).
Week 1- mix nutrient solution at 1000 ppm
Week 2 - mix nutrient solution at 1200 ppm
Week 3- mix nutrient solution at 1400 ppm
Week 4- mix nutrient solution at 1600 ppm
Week 5- mix nutrient solution at 1400 ppm
Week 6- mix nutrient solution at 1200 ppm
Week 7- Flush
The nutrient calculator is set for a 7 week strain; it can be customized for plants that require more than 7 weeks to complete their flower stage. Just click add a week.
The amounts suggested in the nutrient calculator are the total nutrient to feed the plant for a whole week, not the amount to give them per feeding.
If you want to give your plants nutrient solution more than once per week, divide the amount (total ppm) for the week by the number of feedings that you want to give them to calculate the ppm per feeding.
Plants may increase their over all size up to 2/3, during the bloom stage, for this reason the feeding schedules in the calculator increases the strength of the nutrient solution every week, reaching the highest concentration on the fourth week of bloom. If plant needs longer than 6 weeks of feeding (7 week strain, the 7Th week is a flush week), repeat week 4 for each extra week.
Always reduce the amount that you feed your plants during the last two weeks of feeding.
Overfeeding
If the very tip of the leaves gets yellow it is an early sign of overfeeding. Reduce the solution strength slightly (100 150 ppm), if not increase slightly.
Deficiencies
If the margins or any other part of the leaves yellows off it is a possible sign of deficiencies. Check pH in medium and reservoir, if the pH is off from the ideal levels look out conditions may develop. At first symptom of a deficiency apply rule # 1 (When in doubt flush them out).
If growing in a medium that takes some time to dry up, allow the medium to dry and feeding them plain pH adjusted water when they are ready. If growing in a re circulating system, find a way to give them only pH adjusted water for the length of a light cycle, a second reservoir just for water may be a simple solution, then it is just a matter of moving the pump over, maintain the regular water pump cycle during the flush.
pH conditions in medium
In Soil/Soiless (Soil or Soiless mixtures that may also contain peat moss but not Coco Coir) adjust the pH to 6.3
In Hydro (It includes products such as Rockwool, Hydroton Rock, and Lava Rock) adjust to 5.6
In Coco Coir adjust the ph to 5.8 6.0. You may want to supplement with SensiCal when growing in coco with a base nutrient that in not specific to growing in coco
Root damage
Another possibility is damage in the root zone, check for the possibility of root rot, or insect larvae as potential causes for root deterioration, brown, mushy, smelly roots are a good indicator of root damage. Hydrogen peroxide is an efficient way to destroy root rot causing bacteria.
Mixing instructions
If using the base nutrient stand alone, mix nutrients according to instructions on the bottle.
If also using supplements follow feeding schedule in the nutrient calculator.
http://www.advancednutrients.com/nutcalc3public/nutrient_calculator.html
here's part 1 of an answer I got to my question about a mixing chart for soil from the Advanced Nutrients email tech support...I say part one because the guy was just to technical with his explanation and I had no clue what he was talking about. Well, maybe a little but I'm was basically like...What? Maybe you could understand it better...and the plant is pretty much dead I think. I took pics of her so you can judge but basically I got the products I ordered in and set everything up. I then decided to transplant her into the new soil and perlite I got. I think that was a huge mistake on my part since she looks like crap now.
I mixed fifty percent perlite and fifty percent soil but looking at the ingredients in the soil I think the extra perlite was unnecessary. I put a lot in there. And the mixture of soil/perlite is really light in weight and texture. Almost grainy like. But man does that stuff stay wet. I dumped a gallon of Ph balanced water into the soil before transplanting with transplant solution and the stuff didn't even drain out. Maybe it's the vermiculite or something like that in the soil? And that soil says it has a wetting agent. Why would I want the soil to stay wet for days on end? That's not good right? Anyways, I got some cloning solution with my order. Maybe I could take a clone off this mother and start a new plant? With the soil I ordered alone in a red cup like you said before? I just don't have all the stuff you mentioned for cloning and was wondering if I could just use the solution I bought and put her in a cup uder the light and see what happens. What do you suggest at this point? As I said, I think she's slowly dying or she's just over watered to the point of dying because the soil wont dry out. Argh. I thought that soil was the answer to the soil dilemma once and for all and it seems to have made the problem worse instead. Anyways, I got some low grade seeds laying around. If worse comes to worse I guess I'll just have to start over. At least I got better equipment now to contro temp. and lighting and such. I'll post the pics after I post the answer to my question to ANutrients since I'm bound to need it sooner or later. Let me know if you can decipher this guys answers. They're good I think, I just can't for the life of me read it through completely without becoming insanely frustrated....Give it a go?
I hope that this is the answer that you are looking for. If you have further questions please contact us via e-mail or by calling our tech support toll free line at 1 800 640 9605.
Regards
AN Tech Support
I hope that this is the answer that you are looking for. If you have further questions please contact us via e-mail or by calling our tech support toll free line at 1 800 640 9605.
Regards
AN Tech Support
Mistasmoke
Well-Known Member
...here's the question I asked them by the way..."I've searched high and low and am yet to find a mixing chart for Sensi Grow
for Soil planters. All I seem to be able to find is water tank mix charts.
PLEASE help me out since I've already burned my plant and I need a mixing
chart for soil planters desperately.Basically I want to know is how much Sensi Grow A and B to add to a gallon of ph balanced water and in turn how much to water the plant in vegetative stage with.
The amount of water that you will need to apply will depend on the size of the plants and varies every week as the plant grows it also varies with the conditions in the environment, that is amount of light per day, temperature in the room, humidity in the room, root conditions etc. you will have to figure that out yourself. If growing in mediums that retain a lot of water the rule is do not apply until they are dry. If the plants are wilting as in cupping downwards it is a good indicator that you may be over watering.
ppm (parts per million) is a way to measure the concentration of nutrient in the solution. The amount of part A and part B that you need to add will depend on how strong you need the nutrient solution to be for each week of the growth stage. The back of the bottle has a chart that indicates how much of each part to add to a liter(quart) or gallon (4 quarts) to attain a specific ppm.
Use the guideline that I posted before to determine at what ppm to feed.
for Soil planters. All I seem to be able to find is water tank mix charts.
PLEASE help me out since I've already burned my plant and I need a mixing
chart for soil planters desperately.Basically I want to know is how much Sensi Grow A and B to add to a gallon of ph balanced water and in turn how much to water the plant in vegetative stage with.
The amount of water that you will need to apply will depend on the size of the plants and varies every week as the plant grows it also varies with the conditions in the environment, that is amount of light per day, temperature in the room, humidity in the room, root conditions etc. you will have to figure that out yourself. If growing in mediums that retain a lot of water the rule is do not apply until they are dry. If the plants are wilting as in cupping downwards it is a good indicator that you may be over watering.
ppm (parts per million) is a way to measure the concentration of nutrient in the solution. The amount of part A and part B that you need to add will depend on how strong you need the nutrient solution to be for each week of the growth stage. The back of the bottle has a chart that indicates how much of each part to add to a liter(quart) or gallon (4 quarts) to attain a specific ppm.
Use the guideline that I posted before to determine at what ppm to feed.
weedyoo
Well-Known Member
not dieing read some of this http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688
Mistasmoke
Well-Known Member
...breaks my heart I tell ya.... The yellowing has worsened at a fatal rate I think. The ONLY improvement I've seen since I transplanted her Sunday night is that the clone flowers on her were drooping and twisting up tremendously lika dying snake sort of but as of today I see them pretty much all standing up, giving me hope that cutting the clones off and growing them seperately and tossing the mother would still be an option for me. But this is just me speculating. I need your input to know what to do for sure. I took some shots with flash even though I know it's not ideal to judge the actual state of the plant, but I feel it really shows the extent of the damage better than without it. My opinion of course, doesn't make it true but you be the judge...
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Mistasmoke
Well-Known Member
...she looks like a skeleton of her former self right?
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Mistasmoke
Well-Known Member
...I even think she started budding ahead of time. I really don't know what's up with her at this point. She just looks really really bad to me...
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Mistasmoke
Well-Known Member
...thanks for the link friend...I'll read it as soon as I finish uploading these last pics....
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Mistasmoke
Well-Known Member
...these are the last of them... I got her closed off completely now controlling the temp at 82 degrees when she sleeps, sometimes it drops way more and with the light on it wont get over 86 degrees. I also got one mini and one 16 inch fan inside for movement and circulation. I got another bringing in cooler air from another area of the house and one up top blowing out any old air. I got a odor filter for the fan bringing in fresh air for later use...
Attachments
panhead
Well-Known Member
Allrighty then,the info you got from the nutrient people makes me feel better,earlier in the thread i asked my friend who uses these ferts to help out with a soil feeding ratio,the ratio he gave us is just a bit stronger than they reccomend,you were giving her 400 ppm when it shoulda been 300 ppm,this difference in ppm's is not that large,still enough to burn but not to kill,its a good sign.
Are you sure that your soil was still within acceptable range before you transplanted the plant this last time ?
Also are you sure tha the perlite your using dont have any added or built in nutrients within the perlite ?
Im also very curious as to the peat content of the soil mix you were using,the old stuff you had her in that had chunks of stuff laying on the top of it.
The reasons i ask is that earlier in the grow we corrected the problems that were showing within the plants leaf structure by foliar feeding her,then flushing the soil,if there was nutrient lock out in the soil it should have been corrected after the flush,after her health got better she was put on a feeding schedule which was a little high but not high enough to cause the damage were seeing now.
The symptoms the plant is now showing are overwatering which is part of the droopy look,constant over watering will make the entire plant droop heavily,the recent transplant is also adding to the droop from shock.
Another symptom the plant is showing is several macro & micro nutrient deficencies,as well as a slight nutrient burn in a few areas & over fertilization in other areas,the only reason for all this to be happening at once is nutrient lock out in the soil,this could be caused by the soil ph being way off range or wildly variating ph levels when watering & fertilizing.
At this point the soil needs to be checked several times for proper ph,being that you just transplanted her hopefully you can still test the old soil before trying anything else on the plant,my money is on nutrient lock out causing the micro & macro deficiencies as well as over watering.
Are you sure that your soil was still within acceptable range before you transplanted the plant this last time ?
Also are you sure tha the perlite your using dont have any added or built in nutrients within the perlite ?
Im also very curious as to the peat content of the soil mix you were using,the old stuff you had her in that had chunks of stuff laying on the top of it.
The reasons i ask is that earlier in the grow we corrected the problems that were showing within the plants leaf structure by foliar feeding her,then flushing the soil,if there was nutrient lock out in the soil it should have been corrected after the flush,after her health got better she was put on a feeding schedule which was a little high but not high enough to cause the damage were seeing now.
The symptoms the plant is now showing are overwatering which is part of the droopy look,constant over watering will make the entire plant droop heavily,the recent transplant is also adding to the droop from shock.
Another symptom the plant is showing is several macro & micro nutrient deficencies,as well as a slight nutrient burn in a few areas & over fertilization in other areas,the only reason for all this to be happening at once is nutrient lock out in the soil,this could be caused by the soil ph being way off range or wildly variating ph levels when watering & fertilizing.
At this point the soil needs to be checked several times for proper ph,being that you just transplanted her hopefully you can still test the old soil before trying anything else on the plant,my money is on nutrient lock out causing the micro & macro deficiencies as well as over watering.
Mistasmoke
Well-Known Member
... as of today she's looking better but without most of her leaves. Most of them have yellowed and dried out. I haven't watered her since the transplant last Saturday and she's STILL slightly moist. But looking way less droopy at least. And she seems to be also growing still. about and inch since last Saturday. I haven't posted for a while because I honestly thought she'd be dead by now. And there's leaves popping up on the bare branches where there used to be big leaves which yellowed and fell off. My guess for the next step would be to transplant her again into a better mix of Soil and perlite because I think I overdid it on the perlite and didn't add enough soil. Or maybe the amount of soil I used is good but the ration of dirt and perlite was off. I tried to make it 50-50 like you said in an earlier post. Either that or keep her where she is and water her today but like I said before, that soil seems to absorb the water really good and doesn't dry out for a LONG time. I'm worried this will rot the roots or be the cause of something else that's bad. Well, here's the pics. What do ya think?
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Mistasmoke
Well-Known Member
..pics.....
