leaves are droopy

[muzzers]

the leaves on my plant have started to droop over the last few days, iv gave it plenty of water n the light is the same as b4, infact iv added a few. i was wondering if the temprature would make this happen? or maby humidity? if not could anyone make any suggestions as to what it might be?

thanks

 

[laserbrn]

Pictures brotha...gotta have pictures to help. "droopy" comes in many forms.

 

[muzzers]

i cant get any pictures of it sorry,

could you give me a few reasons why it might happen, n al try n figure out what it would be?

the leaves are still green , jst not ridgid like before, can low temp cause this?

thanks

 

[laserbrn]

It could like be one of the following:

Overwater/Underwatering.

You should let the pots dry out COMPLETELY and pick them up. I mean, ridiculously dry. Don't worry, the perk back up from underwatering quickly. Feel how heavy they are when really dry.

Then you should water it with a healthy amount of water. I mean until it drains out the bottom, but a good strong watering.

Then don't water again until the pot feels as light as it did when it was dry. This is a good method for determining when the pot is truely dried out and in need of water.

In nature it doesn't rain a little each day, it pours the it dries out for days or weeks, then it rains/pours again. You want to recreate this. Should be waterin on average about every 3 days. Late in flower sometimes it becomes every other day if your plants are really thirsty.

-------------

Could be a ph problem. Get a ph meter and check the ph of both the water that you are watering with and the runoff water that comes out of the drainage holes.

The water you water with should be at a ph of 6.5 and so should your runoff. If the runoff is lower you need to start watering with ph 7.0 water to raise the ph.

Those are the two most common causes of "leaf droopage", but you could have temperature and/or humidity problems as well.

Temps should stay below 86 at the canopy and the ambient room temperature should aim to be below 80 degrees.

Humidity should be at about 60% for veg and below 40% for flower.

Without pics, that's about the best that I can do for you.

 

[LUDACRIS]

i cant get any pictures of it sorry,

could you give me a few reasons why it might happen, n al try n figure out what it would be?

the leaves are still green , jst not ridgid like before, can low temp cause this?

thanks

Leaves that are drooping from underwatering will look limp and lifeless.
Leaves that are drooping from overwatering will be firm and curled down, even from the stem of the leaf.

LUDA.

 

[LUDACRIS]

It could like be one of the following:

Overwater/Underwatering.

You should let the pots dry out COMPLETELY and pick them up. I mean, ridiculously dry. Don't worry, the perk back up from underwatering quickly. Feel how heavy they are when really dry.

Then you should water it with a healthy amount of water. I mean until it drains out the bottom, but a good strong watering.

Then don't water again until the pot feels as light as it did when it was dry. This is a good method for determining when the pot is truely dried out and in need of water.

In nature it doesn't rain a little each day, it pours the it dries out for days or weeks, then it rains/pours again. You want to recreate this. Should be waterin on average about every 3 days. Late in flower sometimes it becomes every other day if your plants are really thirsty.

-------------

Could be a ph problem. Get a ph meter and check the ph of both the water that you are watering with and the runoff water that comes out of the drainage holes.

The water you water with should be at a ph of 6.5 and so should your runoff. If the runoff is lower you need to start watering with ph 7.0 water to raise the ph.

Those are the two most common causes of "leaf droopage", but you could have temperature and/or humidity problems as well.

Temps should stay below 86 at the canopy and the ambient room temperature should aim to be below 80 degrees.

Humidity should be at about 60% for veg and below 40% for flower.

Without pics, that's about the best that I can do for you.

About wet/dry cycles

While I am a proponent of wet/dry cycling, I do not suggest waiting until leaves begin to droop or wilt. this causes unnecessary stress.

Beginners should definitely rely on judging by the weight of the container, or a moisture meter... although one must test several areas in the containers to get an accurate idea of total moisture.
It is important to the growth of a healthly and strong root system to let plants dry out quite a bit between waterings. It can take several years to understand your plants and their needs enough to feel safe drying containers longer than a few days. However, with gained knowledge and a moisture meter you can easily push your girls to their limits without fear of stress.

(info provided by my documents).

LUDA.

 

[laserbrn]

Barring a meter this is the only way to know what the pot will feel like when it's dry. Any stress that you may cause your plant will be less than that of your current watering routines.

The RIGHT way is to pick up your pot before you water it for the very first time.

 

[LUDACRIS]

Barring a meter this is the only way to know what the pot will feel like when it's dry. Any stress that you may cause your plant will be less than that of your current watering routines.

The RIGHT way is to pick up your pot before you water it for the very first time.

WRONG.

Water
Water, the fluid of life, makes up more than 80 percent of the weight of the living plant. Within the cells, life processes take place in a water solution. Water also dissolves nutrients in the soil, and this solution is absorbed by the roots. About 99 percent of the water absorbed passes from the roots into the conduits (xylem) of the stem, where it is distributed to the leaves via the xylem of the leaf veins. Transpiration is the evaporation of water from the leaves. The flow of water from the soil, through the plant to the air, is called the transpiration stream. Les then one percent of the water absorbed is broken down to provide electrons (usually in the form of hydrogen) which, along with carbon dioxide, are used to form carbohydrates during photosynthesis. The rest of the water is transpired to the air. Watering
Water provides hydrogen for plant growth, and also carries nutrients throughout the plant in the transpiration stream. However, it is not true that the more water given a plant, the faster it will grow. Certainly, if a plant is consistently under-watered, its growth rate slows. However, lack of water does not limit photosynthesis until the soil in the pot is dry and the plant is wilting.
The amount of water, and how often to water, varies with the size of the plants and pots, soil composition, and the temperature, humidity, and circulation of the air, to name a few variables. But watering is pretty much a matter of common sense.
During germination, keep the soil surface moist. But once the seedling are established, let the top layer of soil dry out before watering again. This will eliminate any chance of stem rot. Water around the stems rather than on them. Seedlings are likely to fall over if watered roughly; use a hand sprinkler.
In general, when the soil about two inches deep feels dry, water so that the soil is evenly moist but not so much that water runs out the drainage holes and carries away the soil's nutrients. After a few trials, you will know approximately how much water the pots can hold. Marijuana cannot tolerate a soggy or saturated soil. Plants grown in constantly wet soil are slower-growing, usually less potent, and prone to attack from stem rot.
Over-watering as a common problem; it develops from consistently watering too often. When the plants are small, they transpire much less water. Seedlings in large pots need to be watered much less often than when the plants are large or are in small pots. A large pot that was saturated during germination may hold enough water for the first three weeks of growth. On the other hand, a six-foot plant in a six-inch pot may have to be watered every day. Always water enough to moisten all the soil. Don't just wet the surface layer.
Under-watering is less of a problem, since it is easily recognised. When the soil becomes too dry, the plant wilts. Plant cells are kept rigid by the pressure of their cell contents, which are mostly water. With the water gone, they collapse. First the bottom leaves droop, and the condition quickly works its way up the plant until the top lops over. If this happens, water immediately. Recovery is so fast, you can follow the movement of water up the stem as it fills and brings turgor to the leaves. A plant may survive a wilted condition of several days, but at the very least some leaves will drop.
Don't keep the pots constantly wet, and don't wait until the plant wilts. Let the soil go through a wet and dry cycle, which will aerate the soil and aid nutrient uptake. Most growers find that they need to water about once or twice a week.
When some soils get particularly dry, the water is not absorbed and runs down the sides and out the bottom of the pot. This may be a problem the first time you water the soil, or if you allow the soil to get very dry. To remedy, add a couple of drops of liquid detergent to a gallon of water. Detergent acts as a wetting agent and the water is absorbed more readily. First water each pot with about one cup of the solution. Allow the pots to stand for 15 minutes, then finish watering with the usual amount of pure water.
Use tepid water; it soaks into the soil more easily and will not shock the roots. Try to water during the plant's morning hours. Water from the top of the pot. If you do want to water from the bottom with trays (not recommended), place a layer of pebbles or gravel in the trays to insure drainage. Don't leaves the pots sitting in water until the pot is heavily saturated. The water displaces the soil's oxygen, and the plants grow poorly.
Tap water in some areas highly chlorinated, which does not seem to harm Cannabis; and many fine crops are raised with water straight from the tap. But chlorine could possibly affect the plants indirectly, by killing some beneficial micro-organisms in the soil. Chlorine also makes the water slightly acidic. However, neither effect is likely to be serious. Some growers have asked whether they should use pet-shop preparations that are sold to remove chlorine from water in fish tanks. These preparations generally add sodium, which removes the chlorine by forming sodium chloride (table salt). This solution does not harm the plants, although repeated use may make the soil too saline. Probably the best procedure is to simply allow the water to sit in an open container for a few days. The chlorine is introduced to water as the gas Cl2, which dissipates to the air. The water temperature also reaches a comfortable level for the plants.
Hard (alkaline) water contains a number of minerals (e.g., Ca++, Mg++, K+) which are essentially nutrients to the plants. Water softeners remove these minerals by replacing them with sodium, which forms slightly salty water. It is much better to water with hard water, because artificially softened water may prove harmful after some time. Occasionally, water may be acidic (sulphurous). Counteract this by mixing one teaspoon of hydrated lime per quart water and watering with the solution once a month.

(info provided from my documents)

LUDA.

 

[LUDACRIS]

How do I determine my watering schedule for container plants?

I use and recommend the single probe Rapidtest moisture meter. It is available from most of the major garden centers for under $20. This meter reads consistently without using batteries. It is invaluable for determining watering schedules, which vary tremendously from plant to plant, overwatered conditions, and uneven moisture distribution within the container. Rapidtest also sells a shorter, two probe model which should be avoided. Make this investment, monitor conditions regularly, and reap the rewards at harvest.
Growers that allow their medium to dry out to the point at which the leaves "droop" are reducing their final yields and quality. The medium contains a certain amount of salts that dramatically increase in concentration as the water dissipates. The roots can be repeatedly stressed going through this technique called "wet/dry cycle". The plant is being deprived of moisture that would be available to fuel additional growth and suffers.
The moisture meter's probe should be inserted to various depths to accurately assess conditions. The Rapidtest has a 1-4 scale on the meter, but what is imporatant is relative moisture. The lower potion of the medium in the container should not be so consistently and constantly moist as to "bury the needle" at the top of the scale. The middle depths of the container should be kept in the upper half section of the meter's range and the top should be allowed to dry out to the lower half of the range before rewatering.
This is far more accurate to the lifting and guessing game played by many. The weight of the container does not indicate where the moisture is inside. A grower would never really know if things at the bottom were oversaturated without a probe to tell them. If the bottom is soaked and never dries out, the container feels "heavy" even though other areas may be quite dry. Many grower use large, tight grids of 3-5 gallon containers which can amount to 40-100+ containers. How could they use the lift and guess method, if they can hardly reach some of my plants just to water and prune them. It would be impossible and bad for their backs to use anything except a moisture meter. In other situations the plants are attached to fixed supports, such as SCROG or simply tied up prohibiting movement. There is no more accurate or versatile way to determine your watering schedule.

I am one of those that plays the "lifting and guessing game" and I will always recommend that you use your mind to judge and understand your plants rather than trusting in a $8 Wal-mart toy.
If a grower has 40-100+ large containers then they are likely experienced and likely growing mostly the same crop. When you know your plant and your system you don't use a moisture meter. No serious grower that I've met personally does.
Moisture meters are fine for beginners IF you use multiple sample points in each pot. It's too easy to hit a pocket of perlite or just rub the sensor the wrong way. I'd rather judge by visual and tactile response rather than entrusting a wavering needle on an inaccurate meter. You know that when you lift up your container, is it wet? or is it dry?.

(info provided by my documents)

LUDA.

 

[laserbrn]

How do I determine my watering schedule for container plants?

I use and recommend the single probe Rapidtest moisture meter. It is available from most of the major garden centers for under $20. This meter reads consistently without using batteries. It is invaluable for determining watering schedules, which vary tremendously from plant to plant, overwatered conditions, and uneven moisture distribution within the container. Rapidtest also sells a shorter, two probe model which should be avoided. Make this investment, monitor conditions regularly, and reap the rewards at harvest.
Growers that allow their medium to dry out to the point at which the leaves "droop" are reducing their final yields and quality. The medium contains a certain amount of salts that dramatically increase in concentration as the water dissipates. The roots can be repeatedly stressed going through this technique called "wet/dry cycle". The plant is being deprived of moisture that would be available to fuel additional growth and suffers.
The moisture meter's probe should be inserted to various depths to accurately assess conditions. The Rapidtest has a 1-4 scale on the meter, but what is imporatant is relative moisture. The lower potion of the medium in the container should not be so consistently and constantly moist as to "bury the needle" at the top of the scale. The middle depths of the container should be kept in the upper half section of the meter's range and the top should be allowed to dry out to the lower half of the range before rewatering.
This is far more accurate to the lifting and guessing game played by many. The weight of the container does not indicate where the moisture is inside. A grower would never really know if things at the bottom were oversaturated without a probe to tell them. If the bottom is soaked and never dries out, the container feels "heavy" even though other areas may be quite dry. Many grower use large, tight grids of 3-5 gallon containers which can amount to 40-100+ containers. How could they use the lift and guess method, if they can hardly reach some of my plants just to water and prune them. It would be impossible and bad for their backs to use anything except a moisture meter. In other situations the plants are attached to fixed supports, such as SCROG or simply tied up prohibiting movement. There is no more accurate or versatile way to determine your watering schedule.

I am one of those that plays the "lifting and guessing game" and I will always recommend that you use your mind to judge and understand your plants rather than trusting in a $8 Wal-mart toy.
If a grower has 40-100+ large containers then they are likely experienced and likely growing mostly the same crop. When you know your plant and your system you don't use a moisture meter. No serious grower that I've met personally does.
Moisture meters are fine for beginners IF you use multiple sample points in each pot. It's too easy to hit a pocket of perlite or just rub the sensor the wrong way. I'd rather judge by visual and tactile response rather than entrusting a wavering needle on an inaccurate meter. You know that when you lift up your container, is it wet? or is it dry?

LUDA.

I don't know where you copy/paste this stuff from, but it's crazy. Contradicts itself and the beginning sounds the like the garb on the box for a moisture meter. Just pick up the pots to determine when they are dry....it's pretty simple.

light = dry
heavy = wet.

 

[LUDACRIS]

I don't know where you copy/paste this stuff from, but it's crazy. Contradicts itself and the beginning sounds the like the garb on the box for a moisture meter. Just pick up the pots to determine when they are dry....it's pretty simple.

light = dry
heavy = wet.

its not crazy its FACT .
and its for the newbies who want to learn but i guess you are a lift the pot idiot and cant read your plants requirements .
and i dont use a meter anymore or lift my pots or stick my finger in i know when to water and how much without even touching the pots.

if you are lifting the pots to tell if they need watering then that shows inexperience.

lifting pots is great advice (not!!!!!!!) .

LUDA.

 

[laserbrn]

Haha...I stopped growing in soil years ago. I haven't worried about lifting a pot in a long time.

It is good advice for people who don't have moisture meters and it works just fine. Don't believe everything you read. If you do this during veg the plants will be just fine. It won't effect your overall yeild and it won't harm the plants. It only takes one time to know and then you figure it out pretty quick how often they need water.

It's not advised that people do it all of the time, but when a meter's not an option or you don't feel like wasting $20-$30 you could just lift the pots and use it as a guideline.

This is a retarded discussion.

~unsubscribed. Don't care if you believe everything you read. All you ever do is post copy/pasted information from God knows where and conveniently forget to credit the original authors.

 

[LUDACRIS]

Haha...I stopped growing in soil years ago. I haven't worried about lifting a pot in a long time.

It is good advice for people who don't have moisture meters and it works just fine. Don't believe everything you read. If you do this during veg the plants will be just fine. It won't effect your overall yeild and it won't harm the plants. It only takes one time to know and then you figure it out pretty quick how often they need water.

It's not advised that people do it all of the time, but when a meter's not an option or you don't feel like wasting $20-$30 you could just lift the pots and use it as a guideline.

This is a retarded discussion.

~unsubscribed. Don't care if you believe everything you read. All you ever do is post copy/pasted information from God knows where and conveniently forget to credit the original authors.

thats your opinion and "all i ever do is post copy/paste" .
all info posted is from my documents within my p.c.
so how can i credit the author when there is none its a mix from all different sources including my own.
and unlike you i dont spend hours typing answers when i can upload them from my archives/documents as thats what its for. so why waste time typing when i already have the info stored .

LUDA.

 

[irishstaff]

i water my plants when in flower . water daily with 200ml of water for first 2 weeks of flowering then on the 3rd week give them 300ml of water every other day . then for the rest of the cycle ie from week 4 to 8 give the plants 400ml of water every 3rd day , room temp has to be good and humidity also has to be good