Roseman's DIY Bubbleponics Tutorial

MRsteverson

Well-Known Member
Cleaning the Water Pumps

Look at these pics of this pump and see the old dead decayed roots hung up in the filter, inside the pump.











There is all kinds of dead root trash in that pump.

For three years, and 5 grows, I used a smaller water pump, a 185 gph pump. (gallon per hour) Now I have started using these 240 gph pumps, because they last longer and have a built in filter in them. Now I am seeing I need to replace those filters, but I can not find replacement filters for them. I bet I could make something with a nylon mesh pan scrubber. It will take me an hour with the eyebrow tweezers to get the dead root pieces out of this pump, and I have three pumps to clean. I think when these pumps quit working, I will go back to the cheaper smaller pumps and only use them one time and toss them. I could sell my crappy used old grow supplies on ebey like everyone else does. LOL


The smaller 140 gph pumps run cooler, are much cheaper at about $12 to $14, and deliver the trickle I need. I think they are more disposable too. These larger 240 gph pumps run hotter, cost $18 to $20 each, and the filters are too difficult to clean. I would never recommend any larger.

I am starting to see a lot of growers go to FILTER BAGS. A draw-string bag made of nylon screen, that the water pump sits in, to filter out the trash.

IF you use your same water pumps a 2nd time and have a pH problem, it might be the dead root particles trapped in your old water pumps.

I am taking these pumps apart and cleaning them as good as I can with a tooth brush and compressed air and some eyebrow tweezers.
i have a buddy who wraps his pump in a stalking and it preventsthe roots from getting in.. same pump too.. thats a 185gph right?
 

Roseman

Elite Rolling Society
i have a buddy who wraps his pump in a stalking and it preventsthe roots from getting in.. same pump too.. thats a 185gph right?

those 240 gph. (it says in the post)

You ought to see those pumps right when they are removed. It is a nasty mess.



This is the last grow I will ever do without using a water pump filter bag.

Hydro shops are starting to sell draw-string bags made from a fabric similar to window screen, but a much finer mesh. They are cheap and "must have" for bubbleponic or DWC growers.

By the time the water pump is in the tank for 3 weeks, it harbors too much trash, and dead root debris, and that really emsses with the pH.
 

purpdaddy

Well-Known Member
Man use straight liquid nutes.Switch the game up a lil...Or better yet just stick with what we know works right! I take my pump and tubes out early enough so they dont have time to grow into the pump plus i beleive it makes the plant strive harder to form a better root system..THe pump is needed at first along with the tubes
 

Roseman

Elite Rolling Society
Posting YOUR Grow in someone elses journal is considered hi-jacking.

This thread is not about YOUR grow.
 

Roseman

Elite Rolling Society
I have posted this 19 times.
20 times now.
People complain about having to read and go through the 15,000 posts and 1550 pages on the SH Bubblponics Thread to learn, so I have tried and tried to reduce the clutter and traffic on this thread to a minimum.

SOME PEOPLE JUST CAN'T READ OR COMPREHEND WHAT IS POSTED..




IF I ignore you, it might be because you ignored this:


QUESTIONS might be answered here about YOUR Bubbleponics grow:
Questions about Bubbleponic Growing Thread
.



PLEASE DO NOT HI-JACK THIS TUTORIAL with BULLSHIT CONVERSATIONS.


PLEASE DO NOT POST YOUR GROW HERE.

PLEASE DO NOT USE MY THREAD AS A CHAT ROOM FOR YOUR DISCUSSIONS.

I am trying to replace my 1500 page thread with this thread so it can be read and used more often as a source of reference.

I really appreciated your consideration if I got it.
 

Roseman

Elite Rolling Society
Increasing Potency, GROWTH, Yield and Trichomes

This is something all growers obviously are interested in. Now the methods,and facts I'm going to list I know will be scrutinized and criticised by some, and discredited by others, which is completely fine with me.
Some of these methods come across as pretty controversial, but they all have been researched and tested by people I know, or have talked to, or have tried personally myself.
with that said lets get to the good stuff.

Basics
1) Plant health- It's obvious,but important to state having a healthy plant will produce more trichomes. I try not to throw any plants into flowering unless there all healthy and mature. Plants will not reach there full potential if they are sick or immature. So try to resolve all health issues prior to flipping to 12/12
2) Cool room- having your temps lower in flowering will have your girls producing more resin or trichs.
3) Genetics-Obviously you want the best AND Got to be Indica!

Now the spooky advise:

How to increase Trichomes, Production, Yield

1) Very low humidity in BLOOMING- I think most people know that dryer conditions are more condusive to resin production. From my experience and from talking to other people that grow, its good to have extremely low humidity, or as low as you can get it, DURING FLOWERING, NOT IN VEG.
Try to shoot for 15% humidifity in flowering, if possible, keeping it nice and dry.
HAVE extreme temps, within range, like 80s in day, mid 60s in night.
NO MISTING
2) UVB lighting- there has been a lot of research and tests that indicate that exposing BUDS to UVB lighting in flowering increases trichome production. Naturally in parts of the world with high levels of UVB like Afghanastan or Kush Valley or Thailand have high levels of UVB in their atmosphere. Its believed the leaves makes a "Sun screen" to protect from the uvb, and that sun screen people say are trichomes. Adding UVB lighting in flowering DOES increase trichome production if done correctly.
*** UVB lighting is dangerous, it can cause skin cancer,and can turn you blind. You cant see the light it omits, but if your under it for 10-20 min you will get a sunburn. As long as the UVB is on in your grow area, you don't walk in while its on. As long as you do this everything is fine. I recommend you do from 6-8 hours in flowering starting around 2nd-3rd week of flowering. Start 1 hour a day and gradually increase to 6-8 hours, starting in the middle of its 12 hour cycle. Keep the UVB at least 2 feet away from your canopy. Get the reptile lights,they are cheap, they come in .5 and .10 uvb .10 is better obviously and they make special lamps to hold them, if you want a reflector for it. Make sure to rig the uvb to a seperate timer,to go on 6 hour into the light period. Please use caution with this, and dont allow the uvb to shine on you over a minute or two.

3) Intentional Stress- When your approaching the end of your flowering cycle, you start to stress the plant out.
Hey, they are about to die anyway. When plants THINK they are dying , the only thing they know how to do is grow or try to reproduce. If you start to stress them it is believed by many that the plant will try to get stickier in order to be able to catch more pollen from a flowering male.
When you do this, there are some things to keep in mind.

**Never do this for more then 14 days before your harvest. The key here is to stress them out just enough, to not give them time to turn hermaphrodite on you. You have to estimate when you think you might have 14 days left, start and harvest no more then 14 days after. Kick the plant pots everyday, shake the plant a little everyday, and give it a few minutes of HIGH FAN Air, like a wind storm.
Take little thumb tacks, drive them into every branch on the plant right below the last node. Do not break anything, or drive big nails into them, just use small thumb tacks. Just a tack into every lower branch will do the trick. You're not damaging them, your just annoying them to get a reaction.
TWISTING- hold one part of the large stem between a thumb and finger, and one inch higher, hold one part of the large stem between a thumb and finger, and TWIST it, to damage it.

Take your fingernail and scrap a piece of skin (bark) off, the size of a penny on the larger stems.

- I know a lot of people like to do 24 hours of darkness, at harvest but you can try 2 days of darkness before u chop, or even mess with the light schedule a little, I know this seems crazy but it works. Just do it the LAST week before harvest.
 

BLACKMESSIAH7

Well-Known Member
Increasing Potency, GROWTH, Yield and Trichomes

This is something all growers obviously are interested in. Now the methods,and facts I'm going to list I know will be scrutinized and criticised by some, and discredited by others, which is completely fine with me.
Some of these methods come across as pretty controversial, but they all have been researched and tested by people I know, or have talked to, or have tried personally myself.
with that said lets get to the good stuff.

Basics
1) Plant health- It's obvious,but important to state having a healthy plant will produce more trichomes. I try not to throw any plants into flowering unless there all healthy and mature. Plants will not reach there full potential if they are sick or immature. So try to resolve all health issues prior to flipping to 12/12
2) Cool room- having your temps lower in flowering will have your girls producing more resin or trichs.
3) Genetics-Obviously you want the best AND Got to be Indica!

Now the spooky advise:

How to increase Trichomes, Production, Yield

1) Very low humidity in BLOOMING- I think most people know that dryer conditions are more condusive to resin production. From my experience and from talking to other people that grow, its good to have extremely low humidity, or as low as you can get it, DURING FLOWERING, NOT IN VEG.
Try to shoot for 15% humidifity in flowering, if possible, keeping it nice and dry.
HAVE extreme temps, within range, like 80s in day, mid 60s in night.
NO MISTING
2) UVB lighting- there has been a lot of research and tests that indicate that exposing BUDS to UVB lighting in flowering increases trichome production. Naturally in parts of the world with high levels of UVB like Afghanastan or Kush Valley or Thailand have high levels of UVB in their atmosphere. Its believed the leaves makes a "Sun screen" to protect from the uvb, and that sun screen people say are trichomes. Adding UVB lighting in flowering DOES increase trichome production if done correctly.
*** UVB lighting is dangerous, it can cause skin cancer,and can turn you blind. You cant see the light it omits, but if your under it for 10-20 min you will get a sunburn. As long as the UVB is on in your grow area, you don't walk in while its on. As long as you do this everything is fine. I recommend you do from 6-8 hours in flowering starting around 2nd-3rd week of flowering. Start 1 hour a day and gradually increase to 6-8 hours, starting in the middle of its 12 hour cycle. Keep the UVB at least 2 feet away from your canopy. Get the reptile lights,they are cheap, they come in .5 and .10 uvb .10 is better obviously and they make special lamps to hold them, if you want a reflector for it. Make sure to rig the uvb to a seperate timer,to go on 6 hour into the light period. Please use caution with this, and dont allow the uvb to shine on you over a minute or two.

3) Intentional Stress- When your approaching the end of your flowering cycle, you start to stress the plant out.
Hey, they are about to die anyway. When plants THINK they are dying , the only thing they know how to do is grow or try to reproduce. If you start to stress them it is believed by many that the plant will try to get stickier in order to be able to catch more pollen from a flowering male.
When you do this, there are some things to keep in mind.

**Never do this for more then 14 days before your harvest. The key here is to stress them out just enough, to not give them time to turn hermaphrodite on you. You have to estimate when you think you might have 14 days left, start and harvest no more then 14 days after. Kick the plant pots everyday, shake the plant a little everyday, and give it a few minutes of HIGH FAN Air, like a wind storm.
Take little thumb tacks, drive them into every branch on the plant right below the last node. Do not break anything, or drive big nails into them, just use small thumb tacks. Just a tack into every lower branch will do the trick. You're not damaging them, your just annoying them to get a reaction.
TWISTING- hold one part of the large stem between a thumb and finger, and one inch higher, hold one part of the large stem between a thumb and finger, and TWIST it, to damage it.

Take your fingernail and scrap a piece of skin (bark) off, the size of a penny on the larger stems.

- I know a lot of people like to do 24 hours of darkness, at harvest but you can try 2 days of darkness before u chop, or even mess with the light schedule a little, I know this seems crazy but it works. Just do it the LAST week before harvest.

PEACE ROSEMAN....Great post. This is the epitome of teaching and I applaud you :clap: . This thread has been extremely informational and fun to learn. You have outdid yourself (again I'm sure) and you deserve the bounties of which you have recieved.

KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK, KEEP IT growing green!



:leaf:PEACE:leaf:
 

farmer99

Member
thx u so much roseman after reading every post i have decided too go with a bucket system like urs simpley cos space is a problem but this is a good tuturial for some 1 thats has never grown a flower lol thx a lot
 

pottest

Member
How often should the solution be changed in an aereated system? Presently Emily's Garden 6 pack system. Thanks! P.H.
 

MostlyCrazy

New Member
Pottest,

Don't know if the EG would be any different from other hydro systems but as a rule every 7-10 days is the norm.
 

diggitydank420

Well-Known Member
I thank you. I grew in dirt for years, now this is something new.
First time here, newby to the site, and already help!!
Welcome to rollitup, pottest! Where the haters hate, and lovers love. Stick with the bubbleheads and you will do great, my new friend.:bigjoint:
 

Roseman

Elite Rolling Society
I have posted this 19 times.
20 times now.
21 Now.
People complain about having to read and go through the 15,000 posts and 1550 pages on the SH Bubblponics Thread to learn, so I have tried and tried to reduce the clutter and traffic on this thread to a minimum.

SOME PEOPLE JUST CAN'T READ OR COMPREHEND WHAT IS POSTED.

IF I ignore you, it might be because you ignored this:


QUESTIONS might be answered here about YOUR Bubbleponics grow:
Questions about Bubbleponic Growing Thread
.



PLEASE DO NOT HI-JACK THIS TUTORIAL with BULLSHIT CONVERSATIONS.


PLEASE DO NOT POST YOUR GROW HERE.

PLEASE DO NOT USE MY THREAD AS A CHAT ROOM FOR YOUR DISCUSSIONS.

I am trying to replace my 1500 page thread with this thread so it can be read and used more often as a source of reference.

I really appreciated your consideration if I got it.
 
Top