Sealed, Water cooled blueberry coco grow

[suTraGrow]

Oh man that does suck bro. At least there wasent any major damage so thats always good. Im running the 4 frescas now and wow im loving them. Truly a awesome invention as long as the set ups done correctly. Best of luck man let me know what ya think off. I say go with the 2 DO ITTTT. Happy Growing .

 

[budleydoright]

Oh man that does suck bro. At least there wasent any major damage so thats always good. Im running the 4 frescas now and wow im loving them. Truly a awesome invention as long as the set ups done correctly. Best of luck man let me know what ya think off. I say go with the 2 DO ITTTT. Happy Growing .

Yea that was a rough night. I went to great lengths to do all of my stuff right, It's just when I'm determined to get so much done in a short time I make mistakes. Oh well, could be worse.
2 is definately in the future. Gonna get my automation system back in soon and then ad another 1k and likely ad a 600 bare for a little heat.

Yea, I'm really digging the water cooled setup. It allows you to design boxes and rooms without all of that ducting and noise. I'm sold.

 

[suTraGrow]

Yea that was a rough night. I went to great lengths to do all of my stuff right, It's just when I'm determined to get so much done in a short time I make mistakes. Oh well, could be worse.
2 is definately in the future. Gonna get my automation system back in soon and then ad another 1k and likely ad a 600 bare for a little heat.

Yea, I'm really digging the water cooled setup. It allows you to design boxes and rooms without all of that ducting and noise. I'm sold.

i feel u bro. Dreading the day i run into a mishap with the fresca sols. Already had a little mishap bout a month ago. 8 bulb T5 light set up broke one of the hang yoyos and the whole light collapsed on my pre 98 bubba. Shaved her pretty bad from the back but hey month later shes ready to take another 15 clones off her so happy it didnt land straight down on her hehe that would suck.

What the automation system your talking about? i think i read a lil bout it in your thread but still didnt quite get it. Happy Growing .

 

[budleydoright]

It's an automation system I bought from a mad scientist type. It has 8 15 amp 120V outlets, now 1 220v 10amp outlet. The power box plugs into a dryer type outlet. Mine is 40amp 220, which gives me tons of juice. Each of the 8 outputs has a 20 event timer. There are 2 temperature probes, one humidity and a co2 sensor. There are also 8 switch inputs. The control box has an ethernet port on it, you just plug it into your router, call up the name of the device in your browser and it serves configuration webpages. There, you can program any of the 8 outlets to turn on or off based on time, temp, co2. humidity, the state of other outlets or the state of any of the 8 inputs.

Here's a little explanation of it from a post on another site:

My op is controlled with a digigrow GC-1. This controls my co2, temperature, humidity as well as times my lighting. this unit plugs into a 40 amp 220 outlet and gives me 8 15 amp 120v circuits which can be switched on or off based on thresholds setup in the config screens as well as 20 timer points on each output. It also has 8 switch inputs.

Mine is currently configured to apply the following controls:

8pm -8am lights on provided switch 1(flo-switch) is closed and temp-sensor 1 is <90 degrees. This is outlet one through 4 although I'm only using outlet one.

Outlet five: Co2 is on <1200, off at 1500 unless switch 2 is open (my door is open, meaning I'm inside.) or outlet one is false or off (night).

Outlet six controls my temperature off <74 on at 80 when outlet one is true or off <66 and on at 72 when outlet one is false or off. This gives me day and night.

Outlet seven controls humidity on at 55 and off at 45%.

Outlet 8 is configured to run a pump every 15 minutes for 60 seconds. Hydro dreaming.

I can use outlet 2-4 for anything I want but I have them reserved when my op scales up a bit.

Input switch 8 is configured as a kill all switch, meaning a remote mounted toggle switch needs to be true or closed or everything is turned off.

It's a pretty neat controller. It is setup much like a modern router, in that it has an internal webserver delivering the configuration screen to any computer connected to your network. there are no buttons, only an ethernet port, outlets and a large cable. It took me a while to get all of the parameters setup but once there in it's pretty cool. You can literally set it up anyway you want. Any input or sensor can control any output.

It also sends me an email whenever there's an event you would like to know about. Mine sends me one everytime my lights trigger or anytime the door is opened. All of the emails include a full rundown of the outputs, inputs and sensor values.

I know it's overkill but I'm testing concepts for a much larger room and hope to scale up to a 4k then 8k room if my sanity can handle it.

Before the digigrow, I was using intermatic timers from lowes to switch my lights and turn my co2 on and off. the temp and humidity were controlled with the stats in the respective devices.


I believe there are plans to sell these commercially next year. the whole concept behind it beside the control, is electrical distribution. It's like having an eletrician install a 40 amp 220 service and 8 breakered, properly wired outlets for you, yet it is temporary. You can have your 220 installed in your room or you can run a cable from it to your dryer or range plug. No more guessing what is on what circuit or having a cluster of timers, extension cords and power strips laying around. All of the room controllers I originally looked at could only handle 15 amps.

 

[kodofodder]

It's an automation system I bought from a mad scientist type. It has 8 15 amp 120V outlets, now 1 220v 10amp outlet. The power box plugs into a dryer type outlet. Mine is 40amp 220, which gives me tons of juice. Each of the 8 outputs has a 20 event timer. There are 2 temperature probes, one humidity and a co2 sensor. There are also 8 switch inputs. The control box has an ethernet port on it, you just plug it into your router, call up the name of the device in your browser and it serves configuration webpages. There, you can program any of the 8 outlets to turn on or off based on time, temp, co2. humidity, the state of other outlets or the state of any of the 8 inputs.

Here's a little explanation of it from a post on another site:

My op is controlled with a digigrow GC-1. This controls my co2, temperature, humidity as well as times my lighting. this unit plugs into a 40 amp 220 outlet and gives me 8 15 amp 120v circuits which can be switched on or off based on thresholds setup in the config screens as well as 20 timer points on each output. It also has 8 switch inputs.

Mine is currently configured to apply the following controls:

8pm -8am lights on provided switch 1(flo-switch) is closed and temp-sensor 1 is <90 degrees. This is outlet one through 4 although I'm only using outlet one.

Outlet five: Co2 is on <1200, off at 1500 unless switch 2 is open (my door is open, meaning I'm inside.) or outlet one is false or off (night).

Outlet six controls my temperature off <74 on at 80 when outlet one is true or off <66 and on at 72 when outlet one is false or off. This gives me day and night.

Outlet seven controls humidity on at 55 and off at 45%.

Outlet 8 is configured to run a pump every 15 minutes for 60 seconds. Hydro dreaming.

I can use outlet 2-4 for anything I want but I have them reserved when my op scales up a bit.

Input switch 8 is configured as a kill all switch, meaning a remote mounted toggle switch needs to be true or closed or everything is turned off.

It's a pretty neat controller. It is setup much like a modern router, in that it has an internal webserver delivering the configuration screen to any computer connected to your network. there are no buttons, only an ethernet port, outlets and a large cable. It took me a while to get all of the parameters setup but once there in it's pretty cool. You can literally set it up anyway you want. Any input or sensor can control any output.

It also sends me an email whenever there's an event you would like to know about. Mine sends me one everytime my lights trigger or anytime the door is opened. All of the emails include a full rundown of the outputs, inputs and sensor values.

I know it's overkill but I'm testing concepts for a much larger room and hope to scale up to a 4k then 8k room if my sanity can handle it.

Before the digigrow, I was using intermatic timers from lowes to switch my lights and turn my co2 on and off. the temp and humidity were controlled with the stats in the respective devices.


I believe there are plans to sell these commercially next year. the whole concept behind it beside the control, is electrical distribution. It's like having an eletrician install a 40 amp 220 service and 8 breakered, properly wired outlets for you, yet it is temporary. You can have your 220 installed in your room or you can run a cable from it to your dryer or range plug. No more guessing what is on what circuit or having a cluster of timers, extension cords and power strips laying around. All of the room controllers I originally looked at could only handle 15 amps.

Holy what the hell gadgets batman....Where can I get one of these. This is like perfect. Exactly how my cameras are currently set up. You could even access this controller remotely. That is the SHIT! Ich bin impressed. Is there anywhere u can get one of these, or a tutorial to cobble this together? It sounds like a great winter project for me between semesters.

Also im sorry to hear about the fresca, good thing you were able to save it.... I would make a suggestion, for your 2 fixtures. Try 2 600 watt? More light coverage for about the same wattage. However if cutting electrical isnt really a worry for u just load those bad boys up! (Horticulturesource.com has 600 watt lumatek Ballasts right now for $154.00)

 

[suTraGrow]

It's an automation system I bought from a mad scientist type. It has 8 15 amp 120V outlets, now 1 220v 10amp outlet. The power box plugs into a dryer type outlet. Mine is 40amp 220, which gives me tons of juice. Each of the 8 outputs has a 20 event timer. There are 2 temperature probes, one humidity and a co2 sensor. There are also 8 switch inputs. The control box has an ethernet port on it, you just plug it into your router, call up the name of the device in your browser and it serves ram anyconfiguration webpages. There, you can prog of the 8 outlets to turn on or off based on time, temp, co2. humidity, the state of other outlets or the state of any of the 8 inputs.

Here's a little explanation of it from a post on another site:

My op is controlled with a digigrow GC-1. This controls my co2, temperature, humidity as well as times my lighting. this unit plugs into a 40 amp 220 outlet and gives me 8 15 amp 120v circuits which can be switched on or off based on thresholds setup in the config screens as well as 20 timer points on each output. It also has 8 switch inputs.

Mine is currently configured to apply the following controls:

8pm -8am lights on provided switch 1(flo-switch) is closed and temp-sensor 1 is <90 degrees. This is outlet one through 4 although I'm only using outlet one.

Outlet five: Co2 is on <1200, off at 1500 unless switch 2 is open (my door is open, meaning I'm inside.) or outlet one is false or off (night).

Outlet six controls my temperature off <74 on at 80 when outlet one is true or off <66 and on at 72 when outlet one is false or off. This gives me day and night.

Outlet seven controls humidity on at 55 and off at 45%.

Outlet 8 is configured to run a pump every 15 minutes for 60 seconds. Hydro dreaming.

I can use outlet 2-4 for anything I want but I have them reserved when my op scales up a bit.

Input switch 8 is configured as a kill all switch, meaning a remote mounted toggle switch needs to be true or closed or everything is turned off.

It's a pretty neat controller. It is setup much like a modern router, in that it has an internal webserver delivering the configuration screen to any computer connected to your network. there are no buttons, only an ethernet port, outlets and a large cable. It took me a while to get all of the parameters setup but once there in it's pretty cool. You can literally set it up anyway you want. Any input or sensor can control any output.

It also sends me an email whenever there's an event you would like to know about. Mine sends me one everytime my lights trigger or anytime the door is opened. All of the emails include a full rundown of the outputs, inputs and sensor values.

I know it's overkill but I'm testing concepts for a much larger room and hope to scale up to a 4k then 8k room if my sanity can handle it.

Before the digigrow, I was using intermatic timers from lowes to switch my lights and turn my co2 on and off. the temp and humidity were controlled with the stats in the respective devices.


I believe there are plans to sell these commercially next year. the whole concept behind it beside the control, is electrical distribution. It's like having an eletrician install a 40 amp 220 service and 8 breakered, properly wired outlets for you, yet it is temporary. You can have your 220 installed in your room or you can run a cable from it to your dryer or range plug. No more guessing what is on what circuit or having a cluster of timers, extension cords and power strips laying around. All of the room controllers I originally looked at could only handle 15 amps.

Hmm sound interesting. Also sounds a lil familiar to a Contraption that one of my close buddy's was telling me about a week ago he runs a hydroshop in my area anyways he showed me this thing called the black box.( they make it them selfs at the store on special order) Its pretty much the same thing u just described just not sure if it has all the little tricks to it like yours does. I know it has a temp probe and co2 probe=. i Know it runs 8 plug on 220 but there is a way to convert it into 8 plugs running on 110v not sure if it configuarates websites or any of that but im gonna make sure to talk to him a lil more about it next time i see him. Also pretty sure you cant set it up to send you alarms if the door gets open or anything like that. Thx for the info bro im gonna be looking more into these. Happy Growing .

 

[budleydoright]

Yes, this is a custom order deal. You can get it with 110 or 220 or a combination of the two. It is completely computerized but doesn't require a computer except to setup and monitor, or do data logging. I can access it via the internet although it doesn't have good enough security so I remote desktop to the pc on it's network and then view it through ie. It get's it's time from the internet time server so all of my devices share the exact same time, including my iphone which has an app that can access it. I can set it up so my iphone can turn everything on and off. It can really do just about anything I've ever wanted it to do. I can even configure it with float switches and it can control a CAP ebb and grow style bucket. Would cost me about 30 bucks to set up. Just requires a little simple programming. I paid 1400 with out the cable. I sent it in to have a 220 outlet added to it for a 600w ballast I have that will only run on 220. .

 

[budleydoright]

Holy what the hell gadgets batman....Where can I get one of these. This is like perfect. Exactly how my cameras are currently set up. You could even access this controller remotely. That is the SHIT! Ich bin impressed. Is there anywhere u can get one of these, or a tutorial to cobble this together? It sounds like a great winter project for me between semesters.

Also im sorry to hear about the fresca, good thing you were able to save it.... I would make a suggestion, for your 2 fixtures. Try 2 600 watt? More light coverage for about the same wattage. However if cutting electrical isnt really a worry for u just load those bad boys up! (Horticulturesource.com has 600 watt lumatek Ballasts right now for $154.00)

No cameras on it, just data in the email. there are some webcam systems out there but I have no desire to transmit evidence.

I've been thinking about going with 600 but only if I can run them bare. With all of the extra cooling capacity of the water cooled setup, I think it would be foolish not to take full advantage and load er up. Plus I have no worries about electrical usage

 

[OregonMeds]

I agree it would be foolish to use 600's in those, they need the 1k's to overcome losses in the glass and coolant. Some say it's as much as 30% loss, I'm not sure if that's accurate but it does have to be significant because you're going through two extra layers of glass and the coolant.

I used to be into liquid cooled high resolution projector repair, and even precise lenses and the very best coolant in those did give visibly lower light output on screen versus the air cooled version of the same projector with everything else equal. Maybe 20% guessing.

FYI they used very pure ethylene glycol/glycerin as the coolant in a sealed system with lenses that cost around $3000. If you ever wanted to get a coolant that doesn't allow shit to grow in it, to make it more maintenance free and eliminate even further light losses from contaminants in the solution that's the stuff. 50/50 mix would do, and seal it up so no dust gets in. Once your system gathers any dust or other contaminates like algae or whatever efficiency will drop drastically. Tiny particles in the solution or that collects on the glass really play hell with passing light so you should do a serious full clean every cycle or more if just using water and not sealed, I'm sure you know that though.

 

[suTraGrow]

I agree it would be foolish to use 600's in those, they need the 1k's to overcome losses in the glass and coolant. Some say it's as much as 30% loss, I'm not sure if that's accurate but it does have to be significant because you're going through two extra layers of glass and the coolant.

I used to be into liquid cooled high resolution projector repair, and even precise lenses and the very best coolant in those did give visibly lower light output on screen versus the air cooled version of the same projector with everything else equal. Maybe 20% guessing.

FYI they used very pure ethylene glycol/glycerin as the coolant in a sealed system with lenses that cost around $3000. If you ever wanted to get a coolant that doesn't allow shit to grow in it, to make it more maintenance free and eliminate even further light losses from contaminants in the solution that's the stuff. 50/50 mix would do, and seal it up so no dust gets in. Once your system gathers any dust or other contaminates like algae or whatever efficiency will drop drastically. Tiny particles in the solution or that collects on the glass really play hell with passing light so you should do a serious full clean every cycle or more if just using water and not sealed, I'm sure you know that though.[/QUOTE

Ive put a lot of time into my research before i went and spend a lot of money into my set up. (sig) And it is no were near 20-30% loss even bout a light reader ( http://www.adorama.com/SKL358T.html?sid=1260259727661706 ) screwed around with it and figuered a few calculation i did with the reading from it to convert it into lumens. Gonna try to find all my old research and post it up here. i Believe i was only losing about 3-5k lumens off a 1000watt which has 125000 lumens. So im running 4 1000watt fresca sols which is 500,000 lumens minus the 20k s im still hitting 60 plants with 480,000 lumens and i can have the lights a LOT closer to the plants now so it is dam worth the sacrifice of those lumens.

just add chlorine to the rez with the water for the fresca sol. Auctually not chlorine as this does eat at the water nozzels on the refletors them self i use Pythoff ( http://www.4hydro.com/hydroponics/pythoff.asp )amazing stuff and eliminates all grow in the entire system and dosent eat at the water nozzels on the reflectors them selfs.

 

[OregonMeds]

Hmm, technically I never did measure the two different projectors with a light meter just the LC pj at 100% output looked more like the AC pj at 80%. The lenses and coolant may have been thicker, I don't know.

I'd seriously like to hear more about the measured losses you found, in fact if you ever wanted to start a thread with real data a whole lot of people would thank you. So far I haven't seen or heard of a single independent test with measurements.

 

[budleydoright]

I agree it would be foolish to use 600's in those, they need the 1k's to overcome losses in the glass and coolant. Some say it's as much as 30% loss, I'm not sure if that's accurate but it does have to be significant because you're going through two extra layers of glass and the coolant.

I used to be into liquid cooled high resolution projector repair, and even precise lenses and the very best coolant in those did give visibly lower light output on screen versus the air cooled version of the same projector with everything else equal. Maybe 20% guessing....
.

I'm guessing less than 10% loss, it feels like about 10% if you know what I mean. This is still a 1k bulb and will get 1k results. It seems exactly the same as a cool tube to me. I'm sure there's loss but it is not as dramatic as a 20%+ would be. Although if there is 8% as the manufacture claims and has independent test to show, and you apply the inverse square law, at projector distances, an 8% at the source would result in a huge loss at the screen. I would imagine the system you mention system was even lower than 8% if measured close enought to the source.

But back to the meat and taters... It almost seems like a bare 600 could cover this same space if you could keep the temps down. That's the challange.
I can run my system when it's 100 degrees outside at 84f easy.

 

[budleydoright]

http://www.4hydro.com/hydroponics/pythoff.asp[/URL] )amazing stuff and eliminates all grow in the entire system and dosent eat at the water nozzels on the reflectors them selfs.

Here's my opinion on this issue. I think RO water is absolutely necessary as close to 0 ppm as you can maintain for your lights. Keep it alge free not with chemicals but with a uv light source. My pond pump had a 7w uv filter built in.

This isn't were I am but were i want to be soon. I plan on downsizing my rez to a 20 gallon ice chest and running my uv 24/7 with ro water in a closed insulated rez.

You be amazed at how dirty the glass gets every run, clean water will help minimize it.

 

[budleydoright]

I'd seriously like to hear more about the measured losses you found, in fact if you ever wanted to start a thread with real data a whole lot of people would thank you. So far I haven't seen or heard of a single independent test with measurements.

That would be good to open a dialog and exchange of information about this. I know the fresca people have what they call an independent lab test. They actually claim to gain in some area. I don't know how that could be possible though.

And I agree OregonMeds! It is about time for a photo update to add some color to these pages, I'll try for tomorrow night. That will be 6 weeks.

 

[kodofodder]

The more you go on about this controller, the more I drool. Is there a possibility this mad scientist has schematics or an extra one lieing around? Also I am currently working in an Ebb and gro(Picked up a 24 pot system for $450 at a local shop). I really like this auto feed unit. I honestly would like to Upgrade the buckets to a larger size. Maybe 4 or 5 gallon. Or Netted Pots. Ill start my own thread tonight With pics of my Veg. (Just finished my 3rd week)

 

[budleydoright]

I know you can get one built, I think there's an issue with various electrical codes etc... that have to be dealt with before it can be sold commercially on a large scale. Mine is in a gray electrical box with standard breakers, the latest one I saw was in a totally different box with flush mount outlets. Mine has 2 quad boxes bolted to the side. Looks more homemade than the newer ones. Then there's a small box on a cable that goes in the room and has all of the sensors in it. Mine was kind of made to order. I didn't really know what I wanted, so I just agreed to most everything available. The firmware has been updated twice with pretty much cosmetic changes only.

 

[kodofodder]

I know you can get one built, I think there's an issue with various electrical codes etc... that have to be dealt with before it can be sold commercially on a large scale. Mine is in a gray electrical box with standard breakers, the latest one I saw was in a totally different box with flush mount outlets. Mine has 2 quad boxes bolted to the side. Looks more homemade than the newer ones. Then there's a small box on a cable that goes in the room and has all of the sensors in it. Mine was kind of made to order. I didn't really know what I wanted, so I just agreed to most everything available. The firmware has been updated twice with pretty much cosmetic changes only.

After stumbling around the internets, I actually found a commercial product. It doesnt have the integrated circuits (Which is damn cool....and would solve my current power issues) but it does offer alot of network functionality, at an Fing premium! Their base system with a C02 controller is $1200, lil pricey for my wallet. Offered by Growtronix.

 

[suTraGrow]

Hmm, technically I never did measure the two different projectors with a light meter just the LC pj at 100% output looked more like the AC pj at 80%. The lenses and coolant may have been thicker, I don't know.

I'd seriously like to hear more about the measured losses you found, in fact if you ever wanted to start a thread with real data a whole lot of people would thank you. So far I haven't seen or heard of a single independent test with measurements.

Of course id be more then happy to start a new threat with all the research and data i collected. Im gonna try to start it here soon. Finals coming up next week so still prepearing for that hehe also got work and the budding room still aint done very very very close those still switching to budding this friday for sure. Once im done with everything im gonna look up all the data organize it and start a thread Happy Growing.

 

[suTraGrow]

hey budleydoright sorry for kinda hijacking ur thread. Wasent my intention. Just kinda happened. Il let ya finish your journal now .

 

[OregonMeds]

Of course id be more then happy to start a new threat with all the research and data i collected. Im gonna try to start it here soon. Finals coming up next week so still prepearing for that hehe also got work and the budding room still aint done very very very close those still switching to budding this friday for sure. Once im done with everything im gonna look up all the data organize it and start a thread Happy Growing.

Thank you that's fantastic!


It's going to be a very popular thread, maybe the kind that never ends or earns a sticky.