My first blueberry plant!!! Need help!!

jondamon

Well-Known Member
hey every one. i got one more quastion i hope some one can help me out with this one!!
right...... im going to have a Blue Spectrum 250 watt 8U 6400K E40 CFL Grow Light Bulb in a refleckter, the bulb is gena fit in a e40 fitting. will the e40 fitting need to be conneckted to a ballast then the to socket plug. or can i save money by putting a socket on to my e40 fitting, and then it wont need a ballast i can plug it straight in power socket, bt will that be okey with the Blue Spectrum 250 watt 8U 6400K E40 CFL Grow Light Bulb ?????????

ALL CFL LIGHTS ARE SELF BALLASTING. Just make sure if you are running them on a timer that the timer can take the amount of watts you are putting through it.

If you are going to go over the recommended wattage of the timer then you will need a HORTICULTURAL LIGHTING CONTACTOR. You should have one of these already for your Tent system. It will have 2 plugs on it and a 2 or 4 plug socket on the other end. The 2 plugs to plug in will have TIMER and MAINS on them somewhere. You plug the mains straight into your socket in your house and the other into the timer which then plugs into the socket in your house.

J
 

nas2007

Well-Known Member
ALL CFL LIGHTS ARE SELF BALLASTING. Just make sure if you are running them on a timer that the timer can take the amount of watts you are putting through it.

If you are going to go over the recommended wattage of the timer then you will need a HORTICULTURAL LIGHTING CONTACTOR. You should have one of these already for your Tent system. It will have 2 plugs on it and a 2 or 4 plug socket on the other end. The 2 plugs to plug in will have TIMER and MAINS on them somewhere. You plug the mains straight into your socket in your house and the other into the timer which then plugs into the socket in your house.

J

thanks alot bro you been a big help!! open my eyes quit abit.
dont be a stranger keep on checking on me bro !!
 

nas2007

Well-Known Member
No, the 250w e40 is a self ballasting CFL. Which means all it needs is a plug on the end.

Most (decent) reflectors come with a female socket to hook up your ballast, when using a CFL just put a kettle lead in (PC power lead, you know the thing). If not, just attach a plug.

You only need a seperate ballast for HID bulbs (metal halide or high pressure sodium). For CFL it is just a lightbulb, any additional electronics required will be included. If you look at the picture of a CFL the base between the bulb elements and the screw fitting contains all you need.

From what I've read in this thread you have plenty of questions, this is the best place to come for answers :) I would say that you could get away with only 1 250w blue CFL, personally. I veg using a single 65w 6400k CFL and have no problems at all. I own a 300w 6400k, however my experience has shown zero difference between plants vegged with lots of light and plants vegged with little, hence why I don't bother spending extra money on electric when it doesn't make any difference.

Wattage really starts to matter during flowering, later flowering in particular. Personally I have spent the last 8 months experimenting with indoor growing, looking at the effects of different light levels, feeds, etc to find what works best for me.
thanks bro with out you boys i wudnt know shit. thanks to you lot i am where i am!!! i think i went abit extreme with the veg light lol but you learn from the mistakes thats the most importand thing!!!!!
 

nas2007

Well-Known Member
so can i vegg with just 1 x 250watts bulb trought out the full vegg perioud? (thats with 6 plants)
 

nas2007

Well-Known Member
right every one this is what i went for 1xrocklock, 1xblueberry, 3xsensi star

germinating seeds
1 soaked seed for 6hours in some water thats been out at room temp for over 24 hours.
2 prepare my medium
3 After 6 hours planted my seeds 1 inch down into my medium and gently coverd it with some medium
4 water the little seed into its new home
5 placed a bottom of a clear plastic bottle over where the seed is

this method is by my friend jondamon thanks bro rep+

some uptate pics

this is the hight that i got the pots from its only 1 x 250 watts cfl if its to far do let me know
new3 001.jpg
new3 004.jpg
new3 005.jpg
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member

nas2007

Well-Known Member
i must admit i was slightly dissappointed to see this pic

https://www.rollitup.org/attachments/grow-journals/1094507d1281626997-my-first-blueberry-plant-need-new-1-115.jpg

Thought you would have opted for something from a hydro store to make sure it was sterile.

Did you get that from a garden centre or DIY store ???


It may have pests already in it.

In my experience (bad experience) i bought some soil from BandQ on my first grow and ruined 5 seeds due to pests in the soil .


J
yeah i bought this from B n Q shit im worried now. can pests be seen or are they tini? i did go true the hole soil i put in there to see if there wasnt any thing in there. but i dont know if pest are big inuf to see!!
 

nas2007

Well-Known Member
good news people all seeds have nearly sprouted, tomorow my babys will be in some good soil thanks to jondamon, you saved my babys mate lol thanks bro
 

Sr. Verde

Well-Known Member
Hey man what's up I got a lot of replies but lemme do a bong rip first bongsmilie

AIght ther we go


Your soil choice will help with the PH levels in your soil.

The best advice i can give you is get yourself a liquid PH tester Digital or dropper as long as you can test it and know how to use it. Then as long as you test the input feed and input water then you will be able to adjust as necessary to keep your ph in check.

J
Yes, if you get good soil like Fox Farms Ocean Forest (highly recommended) the soil has ph buffers so the ph doesnt change a lot. Checking the pH of your soil (from my understanding) is mainly for people mixing their soil in large patches. Think large vegetable garden with compost, and lime, and stuff in it. That stuff messes with the pH so the gardener needs to add different materials to lower or raise the ph. If your using good soil you really only need to use a pH meter to change your water/nutrient solution. Also I hear those cheap home depots

with Ph up and PH down you should have a jug of water with around 500ml of normal water then add to this jug 1 teaspoon of either up or down depending upon which way you need to adjust.

Then pour small amounts at a time into your nutrient water to ph balance it slowly!

Pour a little mix it thoroughly and then check.

J
With the nutrients I use, the tables are in mL/L. I went to Walgreens and went to the little medical devices/applicators section and found an oral syrenge. It looks like a syrenge with a plunger but its just a plastic end. It's used to put medicine in peoples mouth so nothing sharp. Anyway it has measurements in mL so it's really easy to get nutrients/ph right.

so can i vegg with just 1 x 250watts bulb trought out the full vegg perioud? (thats with 6 plants)
uhhh... hahah not really. Probably 3 if you have good reflection and stuff (use mylar). Youll need to like add another 150w or so w to that for flowering for 3 plants, so like 350w-400w 2700k for flowering. They need INTENSE light, and they will get REAL nice with that much wattage. I used 252w 2700k CFL for flowering 2 plants and got like 3 oz cured off 2 plants that were trained.

more veggin the biger the budds? is that true?
right every one this is what i went for 1xrocklock, 1xblueberry, 3xsensi star

germinating seeds
1 soaked seed for 6hours in some water thats been out at room temp for over 24 hours.
2 prepare my medium
3 After 6 hours planted my seeds 1 inch down into my medium and gently coverd it with some medium
4 water the little seed into its new home
5 placed a bottom of a clear plastic bottle over where the seed is

this method is by my friend jondamon thanks bro rep+

some uptate pics

this is the hight that i got the pots from its only 1 x 250 watts cfl if its to far do let me know
View attachment 1096787
View attachment 1096783
View attachment 1096785
You want the lights as close as possible without the temps being too hot. If the light is too far away, the plant will stretch to get to the light. You don't want this. A stretched plant has a lot of space between nodes. Nodes are where the buds start forming. So if you have a lot of space between nodes you have airy/light buds. If you keep them close you get rock hard dense nugs. You can also do a lot more with the lights when you have short bushy plants as far as training.

Put your hand plant level, and hold it there for 30 seconds. If your hand becomes uncomfortable it's too hot/close. I recommend (if you haven't) getting fans on either side blowing at the plants/lights. The wind will help the plants grow thick branches that support fat nugs, and it will keep the heat blowing off the lights and off the plants.

So to set up your lights bring it to where your light is just a little too close and work your way up until the hand test shows the distance is good. You will need to be adjusting your lights every few days when the plants start taking off. So make sure your lights are set up where they can be easily raised and lowered. Set that up as soon as you can and you'll save yourself a LOT of time.

I'm subscribed btw.
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member
Just wanted to add a comment nas

I said to plant the seed 1/16 inch down into your medium not a full inch

FOR FUTURE REFERENCE!

J
 

nas2007

Well-Known Member
i have planted all the seeds. ill take pictures inabit after i take my nagging wive to asdas!!!!!! soon as i get back ill reply to you 2 boys and show u how it looks, thanks boys
 

nas2007

Well-Known Member
Just wanted to add a comment nas

I said to plant the seed 1/16 inch down into your medium not a full inch

FOR FUTURE REFERENCE!

J
thanks j thats what i done but what i didnt do is, befor i planted the seeds is that i didnt water the soil i waterd it after i put the seeds in, how much shud i water it ?
 

nas2007

Well-Known Member
Hey man what's up I got a lot of replies but lemme do a bong rip first bongsmilie

AIght ther we go


Yes, if you get good soil like Fox Farms Ocean Forest (highly recommended) the soil has ph buffers so the ph doesnt change a lot. Checking the pH of your soil (from my understanding) is mainly for people mixing their soil in large patches. Think large vegetable garden with compost, and lime, and stuff in it. That stuff messes with the pH so the gardener needs to add different materials to lower or raise the ph. If your using good soil you really only need to use a pH meter to change your water/nutrient solution. Also I hear those cheap home depots



With the nutrients I use, the tables are in mL/L. I went to Walgreens and went to the little medical devices/applicators section and found an oral syrenge. It looks like a syrenge with a plunger but its just a plastic end. It's used to put medicine in peoples mouth so nothing sharp. Anyway it has measurements in mL so it's really easy to get nutrients/ph right.



uhhh... hahah not really. Probably 3 if you have good reflection and stuff (use mylar). Youll need to like add another 150w or so w to that for flowering for 3 plants, so like 350w-400w 2700k for flowering. They need INTENSE light, and they will get REAL nice with that much wattage. I used 252w 2700k CFL for flowering 2 plants and got like 3 oz cured off 2 plants that were trained.





You want the lights as close as possible without the temps being too hot. If the light is too far away, the plant will stretch to get to the light. You don't want this. A stretched plant has a lot of space between nodes. Nodes are where the buds start forming. So if you have a lot of space between nodes you have airy/light buds. If you keep them close you get rock hard dense nugs. You can also do a lot more with the lights when you have short bushy plants as far as training.

Put your hand plant level, and hold it there for 30 seconds. If your hand becomes uncomfortable it's too hot/close. I recommend (if you haven't) getting fans on either side blowing at the plants/lights. The wind will help the plants grow thick branches that support fat nugs, and it will keep the heat blowing off the lights and off the plants.

So to set up your lights bring it to where your light is just a little too close and work your way up until the hand test shows the distance is good. You will need to be adjusting your lights every few days when the plants start taking off. So make sure your lights are set up where they can be easily raised and lowered. Set that up as soon as you can and you'll save yourself a LOT of time.

I'm subscribed btw.


hey there sr.verde, first thanks for subscribing and thanks for your help

about the light basically for the veg i got 2 xBlue Spectrum 250 watt 8U 6400K E40 CFL Grow Light Bulb but i got one on at the moment as i have just planted them today i can add another soon as they grow abit.

for the flowering i got a 600watts hps light. and all this is gena go in in a growing tent by monday so ill have very good reflection. what do you think bro?

p.s how many times and how much water shud i bee giving at this stage?
 

nas2007

Well-Known Member
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this is all the setup for now until tent get here tomorow.
Q)
1)shud i be putting the fan on the pots and the light? becouse when i do this the soil is getting dry from top becouse of the fan.
2)does it matter how close the light is until they come out the soil?
3)what are the most importands things i shud be worring at this stage?
4)temps are at 82-85F shud i be worried? this is with out fans on
5)shud i keep the humidity high at this moment??
 

Sr. Verde

Well-Known Member
Cool on the lights.

Water them, and then wait for the soil to dry out a little before you water againn. Letting the medium dry out a little allows the roots to get oxygen
 
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