My first blueberry plant!!! Need help!!

stonesour

Well-Known Member
Hey sorry didnt get to your journal sooner, just checked my messages. I love that tent setup you got!! One thing from the pictures above, Put those seedlings on boxes or lower that light about 6-10 inches above those seedlings. They are starting to stretch.

-Edit- Sorry just saw the last picture, yeah now I feel stupid...lol
 

nas2007

Well-Known Member
hey sorry didnt get to your journal sooner, just checked my messages. I love that tent setup you got!! One thing from the pictures above, put those seedlings on boxes or lower that light about 6-10 inches above those seedlings. They are starting to stretch.

-edit- sorry just saw the last picture, yeah now i feel stupid...lol
lol no problem happens bro.
 

Sr. Verde

Well-Known Member
I'm lookin at your pics. Could you possibly drape some mylar on a side or two? It would really make the most of that light while they are small.

Mylar is the name of the material. You can go to walmart and buy an 'Emergency Blanket' in the camping section for like $2. It's in a really tiny package, and you get a huge like 8ftx8ft square of mylar. Mylar reflects a lot of light and it would be great for your plants. Once they get larger and the plant starts growing taller you wont really need side lighting as if you train it correctly you can just have a lot of surface area for that light to project on.
 

nas2007

Well-Known Member
I'm lookin at your pics. Could you possibly drape some mylar on a side or two? It would really make the most of that light while they are small.

Mylar is the name of the material. You can go to walmart and buy an 'Emergency Blanket' in the camping section for like $2. It's in a really tiny package, and you get a huge like 8ftx8ft square of mylar. Mylar reflects a lot of light and it would be great for your plants. Once they get larger and the plant starts growing taller you wont really need side lighting as if you train it correctly you can just have a lot of surface area for that light to project on.
hey thanks verde im gena go get some tomorow!!
 

Sr. Verde

Well-Known Member
hey boys, one thing that was bugging me was to LST my plant. here are some quastions that i cudnt finde the answer to.

Q1) should i LST with the 2m Hight i got?

Q2) if i top will my yield be less? (meaning will i get less buds)

Q3) when is the best time to start LST on the plants?

Q4) ones i Lst my plants will i ever have problem for the high? (2M).

Q5) is there a better metherd to control your hight of plants?

any quastions answerd will be much much appreciate it!! thanks
1. What do you mean?

2. No, with your blueberry plants you will actually yield a lot more.

3. Once they get a decent stem, but you can start whenever. All LST is is bending your plant/tying it down and it will grow whatever way you make it. By bending and training you expose more leaf/bud to the intense light which results in more bud.

4. Again not really understanding

5. Topping, and Low Stress Training are the way to go for short, bushy plants.
 

nas2007

Well-Known Member
here are some more pics update as you requested verde lol i thing they looking good the 4th set of leaves are just starting to come out

002.jpg020.jpg014.jpg009.jpg013.jpg004.jpg011.jpg
018.jpg<<<my work station and im thinking im gena put mylar on the sides and make this section into my cloning area what do you boys think.

p.s is it me or are these babys growing abit slow?
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member
They look ok.

BUt if you are growing in the area where the lamp is on the table then you are loosing alot of usable light around the sides.

It is surprising how quickly they will take off. It takes around 10-15 days for them to really start growing quick.




J
 

Sr. Verde

Well-Known Member
Lookin good. They always grow this slow during that stage. They should hit a growth spurt soon. By the way, I'd change your light schedule to 20/4, I found the plants liked it when you gave them 4 hours of rest. I've seen good results with that veg light cycle using CFL's. & are you using a pH meter to check the pH of your water your using on the plants? If not you should invest soon ($30 for a meter & $5-$10 per bottle of pH UP/pH DOWN). If your pH isn't correct your plant won't be absorbing all the nutes as well as it can. It may even lock some nutrients out, resulting in a deficiency even though you are giving them nutes (in the future). I personally believe that a pH meter is just as essential as good light if you are serious about growing good plants. I see a lot of people thinking they can just go without (like me in the beginning lol).
 

nas2007

Well-Known Member
i am stongly planning to get ph meter. but when is the best time becouse im saving little bit of money for this
light.jpgMagnum XXXL- 150mm Air-Cooled Reflector * The largest reflectors in the industry! * Reflector dimensions: 32 1/2" long x 26 1/4" wide x 7 3/4" tall * Includes tempered glass, built-in socket & 15 ft. lamp cord * Completely sealed - featuring gasketed glass and integrated retention bars to hold glass tightly in place * 95% reflective German aluminum interior offers excellent reflectivity and diffusion * Re-strike bend above the lamp for optimum performance * Powder-coated galvanized steel body * Maximum air cooling with built-in 6" fittings * Patent Pending

carbon filter.jpgTop Quality Rhino Carbon Filter- 600m3/hr - 150mm/600mm
fan.jpgLTI RVK Turbo Fans All our quality German manufactured Systemair

i want to have all this by the time its flowering time
 

Sr. Verde

Well-Known Member
pH meter and solution is a priority. If your pH is wrong your plants growth will be stunted and your buds will be a lot lighter.

Check this out for your pH up/pH down http://www.discount-hydro.com/productdisp.php?pid=532&navid=55 . It costs like $4 more than one of the big bottles, but you get both pH up and pH down. And a little dropper. The solution is so concentrated that you only need a few drops to get to the desired pH (6.5-7 in soil).

this is a decent meter. http://www.discount-hydro.com/productdisp.php?pid=884

It's advisable to pick up some calibration/storage solution (only need a little bit) as that will keep your meter in check.

But seriously dude, your plants/yield will be hurting without the proper pH meter.
 

nas2007

Well-Known Member
pH meter and solution is a priority. If your pH is wrong your plants growth will be stunted and your buds will be a lot lighter.

Check this out for your pH up/pH down http://www.discount-hydro.com/productdisp.php?pid=532&navid=55 . It costs like $4 more than one of the big bottles, but you get both pH up and pH down. And a little dropper. The solution is so concentrated that you only need a few drops to get to the desired pH (6.5-7 in soil).

this is a decent meter. http://www.discount-hydro.com/productdisp.php?pid=884

It's advisable to pick up some calibration/storage solution (only need a little bit) as that will keep your meter in check.

But seriously dude, your plants/yield will be hurting without the proper pH meter.
ok in that case i will order one rigt now online. thanks bro!

p.s what do you think about the other stuff im planning to get?
 

nas2007

Well-Known Member
okey got the ph up/down, ph buffer 7, and ph meter storage solution, tomorow my ph meter shud be here, and my armageddon seeds to!!!! they gena be my next grow!!!
 

Sr. Verde

Well-Known Member
okey got the ph up/down, ph buffer 7, and ph meter storage solution, tomorow my ph meter shud be here, and my armageddon seeds to!!!! they gena be my next grow!!!

hahaha dude I love you.

You got everything I told you to get really fast.


Your plants are going to kick ass.


btw are you going to use any nutes?



How to measure/adjust pH levels in your water:



Firstly, if your not filtering your water in any way and are using tap water: Leave your water sitting out in the open air for like 24 hours. Water Treatment Plants add chlorine (among other things) in the water to keep it clean. Chlorine will evaporate off the water in 24 hours.

Info on pH: Okay, so anything above 7 is considered alkaline, anything below 7 is considered acidic. pH ranges from 0-14. The pH range your looking for, for growing cannabis is between 6.5-7. If you want to learn more about how certain nutrients get absorbed according to the pH click this

Note that pH works in the same way dB do. (decibels - a measurement of sound) does. It increases x10 every step. So a pH of 7 is 10 times more alkaline than a pH of 6. and a pH of 8 is 100 times more alkaline than a pH of 6. Get it? You don't really need to know that but it's something that might save you a little time with figuring out how much pH up/down is needed.

-------------------

Okay so bust out your pH meter and test your water, submerge the sensor piece into the water and turn it on, let it sit there for like 30 seconds before you take down a reading as it can change/fluctuate. Now start by adding DROPLETS of ph up/down to the water. Mix it up, and test again. Keep adding whatever you need until your meter is reading between 6.5 and 7 (You can fine tune the pH for some strains for optimal nutrient uptake. Some like it more acidic/alkaline than other strains)\

IF YOUR ADDING NUTES TO THE WATER: Realize that nutrients can alter the pH, generally making the pH go more acidic. If your adding nutrients add the nutes first, then test pH. THEN add ph up/down.


I'd calibrate your unit every few weeks. Or, however often you'd like. You will notice it takes longer to get pH readouts over time with no calibrations. Also, you only need the calibration solution (7.01) to touch the sensor, you don't need to submerge it. So you can use a LITTLE tiny amount of calibration solution and it will work.
 

nas2007

Well-Known Member
hahaha dude I love you.

You got everything I told you to get really fast.


Your plants are going to kick ass.


btw are you going to use any nutes?



How to measure/adjust pH levels in your water:


Firstly, if your not filtering your water in any way and are using tap water: Leave your water sitting out in the open air for like 24 hours. Water Treatment Plants add chlorine (among other things) in the water to keep it clean. Chlorine will evaporate off the water in 24 hours.

Info on pH: Okay, so anything above 7 is considered alkaline, anything below 7 is considered acidic. pH ranges from 0-14. The pH range your looking for, for growing cannabis is between 6.5-7. If you want to learn more about how certain nutrients get absorbed according to the pH click this

Note that pH works in the same way dB do. (decibels - a measurement of sound) does. It increases x10 every step. So a pH of 7 is 10 times more alkaline than a pH of 6. and a pH of 8 is 100 times more alkaline than a pH of 6. Get it? You don't really need to know that but it's something that might save you a little time with figuring out how much pH up/down is needed.

-------------------

Okay so bust out your pH meter and test your water, submerge the sensor piece into the water and turn it on, let it sit there for like 30 seconds before you take down a reading as it can change/fluctuate. Now start by adding DROPLETS of ph up/down to the water. Mix it up, and test again. Keep adding whatever you need until your meter is reading between 6.5 and 7 (You can fine tune the pH for some strains for optimal nutrient uptake. Some like it more acidic/alkaline than other strains)\

IF YOUR ADDING NUTES TO THE WATER: Realize that nutrients can alter the pH, generally making the pH go more acidic. If your adding nutrients add the nutes first, then test pH. THEN add ph up/down.


I'd calibrate your unit every few weeks. Or, however often you'd like. You will notice it takes longer to get pH readouts over time with no calibrations. Also, you only need the calibration solution (7.01) to touch the sensor, you don't need to submerge it. So you can use a LITTLE tiny amount of calibration solution and it will work.
lol thanks.

yeah for the nutes i got biobizz grow and bloom, that ok?

and thanks for the ph info that all just answer every single quastion i hade in my mind!!
 

stonesour

Well-Known Member
When they stretch that bad, you need to replant into larger containers up to the leaflets and water. Either they are stretched too far and falling over because they are top heavy or they are dry and need watering. If it was me I would transplant all of those into larger containers up the leafs and keep the light close.
 
Top