Harvest a Pound Every Three Weeks!

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fletchman

Active Member
JimmyT said:
Dude, it doesn't have to be precise to the nearest thousandth decimal place. Just start off with a minimal EC level and work your way up until you see the slightest nutrient burn. Besides, a lot of it has to do with what strain you're running. If it's that important to you, get yourself a TDS meter:leaf:
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I have a TDS meter? You dont get it? LOOK at the link I put up, EC is the only universal way of knowing what ppms you are useing. 1000 ppms on one meter could be 1400 ppms on another brand meter, but they are BOTH 2.0 EC. I have a Hanna meter, I was wondering what kind of meter Stinkbud uses.

http://www.gardenscure.com/420/hydroponics/96521-printable-ec-ppm-cf-conversion-chart.html
 
M

midwestfunkmaster

Member
1906 said:
hello all, just a couple of questions -not sure how to connect the 1/2 pvc to the pumps and how to connect the 1/2 ball valve to the 1/2 inch hose adapter? anybody?
thanks
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Start at page 180 or so, thats where they started talking about certain adapters and fittings used to connect the pieces. Wish I could be more help but I know its between pgs180-195
 
M

midwestfunkmaster

Member
Kingpin69 said:
Hey stink, instead of draining all the buckets back to a common res, why not use the buckets as the res. In a system for large plants it puts you at a disadvantage having to raise them. I have an illustration of the common res method as opposed to the design I drew which is actually similar to some bucket hydro systems that you see in local shops, only they operate on a drip emitter rather than root sprayers.

The only thing I can see being a problem with this system is that it would be harder to drain and refill but thats really not that hard to deal with. Also, if your doing a bunch of big plants say outdoors in these buckets, you can step it up and design every bucket to have a garden hose attachment and then build as many as you like and connect both the sprayers and the drains via short garden hose pieces and then its super easy to clean and take apart whenever you need to, and if the plants become too crowded, just swap out the hoses for longer ones. What do you think!
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interesting design
 
M

midwestfunkmaster

Member
^^^hope this helps bruh...

I have a little confusion about attaching the pump to the sprayer unit. I have always used tubing in the past. Do you just silicone the pump to the pvc on your original design?

I may just use the tubes so I can move the pump around ( to avoid root overgrowth)
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There are many ways to attach the pump to your manifold. I have found these pieces to work best and it is actually possible to assemble the entire manifold from threaded 1/2" PVC. The EcoPlus 396 and 633 pumps both have 1/2" threaded output. The 396 has 1/2" threaded input too, while the 633 uses 3/4" thread (garden hose) - in case you want to run something externally or fit a filter inline.

Refer to the attached pictures:

The blue flex line tubing has 1/2" male pipe thread on both ends. It is available at hardware stores and comes in many lengths. We have 9" through 24" sections at our OSH in town. The pictures show an 18" and 24" section. The great thing about these pieces is that the fittings swivel within the hose - no kinked or twisted hose when replacing a pump or manifold.

The gray sections of 1/2" threaded PVC are available in 1" through 48" sections; in 1" increments through 12" at our OSH. These pieces are great for the AeroCloner and the VegUnit. Combine these threaded sections with various threaded 1/2" PVC elbos and tee's and endcaps - while the pictures do not show this, you can make an entirely threaded assembly.

The nice little threaded elbo is also available at your hardware store.

I've shown the method I use to connect my EcoPlus633 to the tee of the spray manifold. The connection is: Pump, to 1/2" threaded elbo, to 1/2" threaded flex tubing, to 1/2" threaded/slip/slip PVC tee section.

Also shown is how you may use a section of gray 1/2" threaded PVC for the AeroCloner pump connection.

Pump it up!

PS - sorry about the image quality - cell phone pics - didn't feel like pulling out the camera.
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pictures are located on post #1992
 
1906

1906

Member
thanks midwest, figured it out - the adapter is at the home depot if anybody else is wondering - part number 436-005 -cost 27 cents - same part for the pump and the hose adapter to pvc
 
JimmyT

JimmyT

Well-Known Member
fletchman said:
I have a TDS meter? You dont get it? LOOK at the link I put up, EC is the only universal way of knowing what ppms you are useing. 1000 ppms on one meter could be 1400 ppms on another brand meter, but they are BOTH 2.0 EC. I have a Hanna meter, I was wondering what kind of meter Stinkbud uses.

http://www.gardenscure.com/420/hydroponics/96521-printable-ec-ppm-cf-conversion-chart.html
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My apologies, it's just that when it comes to nutrients, I'm a firm believer that you should start off at a low ec or ppm meter level and then work your way up to what the the strain/pheno can handle. Shouldn't that be what really matters?
 
F

fletchman

Active Member
JimmyT said:
My apologies, it's just that when it comes to nutrients, I'm a firm believer that you should start off at a low ec or ppm meter level and then work your way up to what the the strain/pheno can handle. Shouldn't that be what really matters?
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Sure, but two years ago when this thread started Stinkbud gave his formula at 2000 ppm's and he was running 10 different strains. If Stinkbud would chime in and let us know what conversion his meter is, we could USE his formula. See link below

http://www.420magazine.com/forums/how-grow-marijuana/71813-what-difference-between-ppm-ec.html
 
M

midwestfunkmaster

Member
StinkBud said:
I've noticed that if I don't start my flush at 7 weeks the plants will go into another growth stage and produce new growth on top of the old.

When I start my flush at 7 weeks the plants stop growing and ripen up. The pistils turn orange and the trichromes will turn cloudy.

You can always flush longer than 2 weeks if the plants are not done. Only thing that will happen is the buds will taste even better!

My latest experiment is using Clearex for the whole flush. I'm trying it on my latest batch with great success. Botanicare recommends 3-4 days of Clearex instead of a two week water flush. I've tried that and it wasn't enough.

So this time I took my plants out 8 1/2 weeks before I started my flush but I'm only flushing for 8 days total. I've been using 450ml of Clearex and changing the water and adding Clearex every other day. This is the maximum amount of Clearex Botanicare recommends.

The plants look the same in 1 week with Clearex as they do with 2 weeks of straight water. Granted I took the plants out a full 8.5 weeks before I started my flush. It looks like this might be an option to allow those longer strains to finish up before flushing and not sacrifice the final taste.

I'll let you guys know the final results in few days.

My other experiment involves using my veg formula for the first two weeks of flower. I've always noticed that when I put my girls into flower they stretch and look like they could use a little more Nitrogen.

So this time I used the Veg formula with the new girls instead of the bloom formula. I did add Sweet to the formula. Right away I can see that it is working great! The plants are staying dark green and growing very fast without much internode length. I'll switch back to bloom at my next res change. You guys should try it out and see if you get the same results.
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DIRTHAWKER said:
Interesting STINK... that makes alot of sense,
4 days on clearex= 2 weeks plain water. And you can kinda experiment around that equation. I think i will just play it safe this time around and do the 150ml of clearex for 24 hours then plain tap water and see how it comes out...thanks for the experiments.
Click to expand...

I'm sure I'm gonna need this later....
 
M

midwestfunkmaster

Member
StinkBud said:
So here is the final installment many of you have been waiting for. My next step it to put everything together into one convenient post. So have fun!

Aeroponic/NFT Assembly Instructions vers 1.1
By Stinkbud

Step 1 – Cutting the ¾” PVC Pipe for the Frame
1) 4 - 41” lengths (label plant support)
2) 4 - 20” lengths (label “H”)
3) 6 - 4 1/8” lengths (label fence post holder)
4) 3 - 14 3/4” lengths (label 1- “H” and 2 -“end”)
5) 4 - 18” lengths (label plant support leg)
6) 4 - 12” lengths (label plant support leg)
7) 4 - 2” lengths (label end)
8- 2 - 12 1/2“ (label front)
9) 2 - 13 1/2” (label back)

Step 2 – Preassemble Your Frame
1) Start with the ends. Use 4 - Tees and 3 – 4 1/8” lengths to make the fence post holder.
2) Add the legs and bottom Tees. Don’t forget the front and back label!
3) Add the 2” pieces to the bottom of the Tees
4) Add the Elbows to the 2” pieces. Make sure the elbows are facing toward each other.
5) Connect the Elbows with the 14 ¾” pieces. The ends should be complete now.
6) Now make the bottom “H” using 2 - Tees, 4 – 20” pieces and 1 – 14 ¾” piece.
7) Connect the two ends together using the “H”.
8- Create your plant supports using the 4 – 41” lengths and 4 – Elbows.
9) Add the 12” and 18” plant support legs and place the plant supports into the frame.
10) If everything fits then take the unit apart and glue all the pieces together. Be careful, the glue
dries fast!

Step 3 – Assemble the Fence Posts
1) Measure and mark the 2" net pot holes (according to the plans).
2) Clean up the holes with the Exacto knife.
3) Put a large bead of Silicone inside 2 of the end caps and place them on the back end of the fence
posts.
4) Run a bead of Silicone around the edges of the end cap and let the posts dry
5) Cut the bottom ¼” off of the 2 end caps. Use a small drill drum sander to sand an opening for the
sprayer pipe assembly. A Dremel tool works well too.
6) Place the fence posts on the frame and use large cable ties to hold it in place.

Step 6 – Cutting the Sprayer Assembly Pipe
1) 2 - 3” lengths
2) 2 - 2” lengths
3) 2 - 47” lengths
4) 1 - 11 1/2” length

Step 7 – Assembling the Sprayer Unit
1) Drill ten 11/64” holes in the 47” length pipes according to the plans
2) Use pliers to insert the EZ-Cloner sprayers into the holes
3) Attach end caps and elbows to the sprayer pipes
4) Put the 2” pipes into the elbows
5) Combine the two sprayers together with a Tee
6) Add another 2” piece to the Tee and a downward facing Tee to that
7) Attach the last 2” piece to the Tee.
8- Attach the ball valve and garden hose adapter to the last piece
9) Try it out in the fence posts and if everything looks good, glue it all together.

Step 8 – The Container Lid
1) Put the container and lid under the fence post and draw a drain hole under the fence posts.
2) Cut out the holes with a utility knife and clean up the edge with the small drum sander.
3) Drill a 2” hole for the pump pipe.
4) Cut a large access hole with the utility knife. Leave one edge attached to make a flap that can be
closed.

Step 9 – Final Assembly
1) Place the pump into the container and run the 11 ½” pipe through the lid.
2) Put the sprayer assembly into the fence posts.
3) Put the container under the frame and attach the pump pipe to the sprayer assembly.
4) Apply a few small drops of silicon the drain end caps and place them on the fence posts. Don’t
use much silicon because you want to be able to remove the caps when needed.
5) Fill the containers and place empty net pots with collars into the fence posts.
6) Check for leaks. If everything is OK then you are done! Congratulations!!!

Step 10 – Mixing the Nutrient Formula
Botanicare Nutrients:
1) 126ml Cal-Mag Plus
2) 150ml Sweet
3) 180ml Liquid Karma
4) 540ml Pure Bend Pro Bloom
Mix all the nutrients together in a gallon jug and top off with water. Shake well!

Step 11 – Setup and Conclusion
1) Add 15 Gal. of water. (approx.) to the reservoir
2) Add nutrient mix until the meter reaches 2000 PPM
3) Adjust the PH to 5.8
4) Fill the flower unit with your favorite strains from the veg unit.
5) Set your cycle timer to one minute on and five minutes off.
6) Enjoy your new Aeroponic system!!! You should see some amazing buds in no time!
7) Don’t forget to pass the love on…
Click to expand...


I'm not sure if I bumped this or not, better safe than........
 
M

midwestfunkmaster

Member
StinkBud said:
Roots 101:

Plants have evolved over millions of years in soil. With soil all the nutrients are in the top layer but the water table may be quite a bit lower. In some cases the water source may be very deep.

To handle these variables the plant has evolved two different types of root systems.

The first roots the plant sends out are the tap roots. The main purpose of these type of roots is to establish a water source and give the plant a strong foundation. In soil the tap root can grow very long if needed.

The other type of roots are the ones used to collect nutrients and Oxygen. These roots are tiny and look like little hairs. These are the roots that grow in the top part of the soil.

In soil the root mass grows huge. You don't see it but the roots below the soil are as large as the plant above.

In aeroponics the roots are very small in comparison to the size of the plant. This is because the plant can easily receive all the nutrients they need from a small root system. The plant dosen't need to grow many tap roots because water is always available.

One of the main reasons we see such huge growth rates is because the plant is growing leaves instead of roots.

So the important roots are the ones growing close to the plant. When we cut the roots we are mostly cutting the tap roots. Even if you cut off half of the roots, the plants would still have more nutes and water available than they could ever use.

Remember, the plant's limiting growth factor is usually light first then CO2 next. Water and nutes are a non issue in my system.

So it's no big deal to hack the roots. What you can't do though is leave the chopped off roots to rot within the other roots. All the plants must be separate and clean when they go into the flower system.

So there you go...everything you never wanted to know about roots in one post.
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.........................................
 
JimmyT

JimmyT

Well-Known Member
fletchman said:
Sure, but two years ago when this thread started Stinkbud gave his formula at 2000 ppm's and he was running 10 different strains. If Stinkbud would chime in and let us know what conversion his meter is, we could USE his formula. See link below

http://www.420magazine.com/forums/how-grow-marijuana/71813-what-difference-between-ppm-ec.html
Click to expand...
You crack me up because it seems you're so fixated on exact numbers. It's not what it's about at all. The odds that SB will respond to you are going to be somewhat slim to none. He doesn't come around here often. I remember him mentioning a Hanna stick before. Just get to growing already and stop worrying about numbers. Start low and give it as many ppms as the plant can possibly take as the weeks go by increasing it gradually. You'll be surprised that some strains can only take 1500 ppm tops while others can really go up to 3000 ppm during the 4th week of 12/12 onward:leaf:
 
mindphuk

mindphuk

Well-Known Member
I've got a truncheon that has both scales on it. I never go to 2000 (x 700 scale) on my strains but I don't believe that it's necessary to push them as long as they are vigorous and healthy. Nutrients aren't typically a limiting factor in most indoor grows, light and co2 are. The point is is that 2000ppm isn't a magic number, you have to learn and understand what you specific plants need. Start low and work your way up every few days while watching the response you get. Monitor pH and EC close to understand if they are using more nutes than water or vice versa.
You also have to understand that different nutes will require different levels. The Pure Blend Pro and Liquid Karma have some organic ingredients that will produce conductivity but will not be immediately available to the plant as nutrition so your EC can be higher without burn. I don't use Stink's formula exactly although I still use the Pure Blend Pro, Calmag and LK for my base.
 
F

fletchman

Active Member
Yeah I read you can use ALOT higher ppm's in this aeroponic spray em 1 min. let drain 5 min. system. I think Im gonna build one soon. I have other systems I built im runnin now.

You would FRY your plants runnin 2000 ppm's in a RDWC,DWC,MPB's,Bubble Buckets,Waterfarm,ect. I dont care what strain it is.

I still cant believe after 886 pages of posts, no one knows what EC Stinkbuds formula is? I wonder if he even knows, lol!
 
F

fletchman

Active Member
mindphuk said:
It looks like he owns an Oakton but recommends a Milwaukee https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/116859-harvest-pound-every-three-weeks-45.html#post1828790 so I guess you can use a conversion factor of 0.64
Click to expand...

Thanks, so using Stinkbuds formula would be 1550 ppm's on my Hanna meter. I'll have to build one of these and give her a run.

It is recommended you always give EC reading when giving out your nute schedule, that way there is no confusion.

Thanks
 
F

fletchman

Active Member
MeJuana said:
A large majority of us start at lower PPM values such at 600 I am a .5 conversion
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From what I have researched you can run twice the EC in this spray and drain system.

Where is Stinkbud? I only read the 1st 50 pages of this thread, anyone here followed it the whole way?

What Im gonna do is the same thing, but grow em up bigger and use the 100" fence posts and have 2' centers and have two rows 4' apart and run 2-1000 watt vertical between them. Worth a try and it might work out?
 
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