Rusty spots on leaves. Please help....

skptrcr1

Member
This is my first grow and has been going well. Had several mishaps but nothing serious. I noticed little brown spots on one of my plants. She is a clone and is around 4 week old. Can anyone tell me if this is mag def or something else? Thank you in advance for your assistance.
 

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CHUCKTYLAH

Active Member
More info pls. What kind of nutes are you using is it hydro or soil what kind of soil what PH. At first glance it looks like a calcium deficiency and if so can be fixed by foliar feeding with one teaspoon of dolomite lime per quart of water and of course only foliar feed after the lights go out and they need to be dry before the light comes on.
 

cannabisguru

Well-Known Member
yes u r spot on. make sure to check ur ph as well. start using epsom salts or get some calmag.
Epsom salts.. I've heard of this before. I've personally never used it.. but I've read a good number of threads talking about it.

How much salt should you use? I mean, how much per cup of water.. how much salt would I put into 1cup of water?

anyone?
 

skptrcr1

Member
I'm using Humboldt Nutes following the Oneness feeding schedule and its aero. My PH is at 6.5 and using hydroton. I'm using a 1000w MH and have been told to keep it on 24/0.
 

thexception

Well-Known Member
Epsom salts.. I've heard of this before. I've personally never used it.. but I've read a good number of threads talking about it.

How much salt should you use? I mean, how much per cup of water.. how much salt would I put into 1cup of water?

anyone?
2 tsp per gallon. once a mag deficiency is realized, it is best to continue with the salts with regular water schedule.
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
your PH is too high. You want to start your PH around 5.8 after you change your rez and then let it drift between 5.6 and 6.5. I never let it stay at 6.5 for more than a day before adjusting down. The pants don't look horrible but if they were mine I would foliar feed them with a nice balance nutrient solution that included calmag (for your micros), some weak grow nutes (for nitrogen), and some any kind of kelp derivative (for all kinds of hormones and amino acids and general rock star plant stuff). Mix at 1/4 strength the regular dosage, put it in a little spray bottle, and put about 1/4 teaspoon of dr. bronners soap in the bottle.

Shake, spray, watch problem diseapear.
 

thexception

Well-Known Member
I'm using Humboldt Nutes following the Oneness feeding schedule and its aero. My PH is at 6.5 and using hydroton. I'm using a 1000w MH and have been told to keep it on 24/0.
that is a strong light, & I would not keep the light on all the time, as u r not giving it any downtime, where as most of the growth occurs, etc. u should be on an 18/6 schedule.
 

CHUCKTYLAH

Active Member
I'm using Humboldt Nutes following the Oneness feeding schedule and its aero. My PH is at 6.5 and using hydroton. I'm using a 1000w MH and have been told to keep it on 24/0.
6.5 is too high for hydro. You said you use Ph drops to test your PH is that before the nutes are added? Oneness will make your water pissyellow and you can't ph test piss yellow water accuratley with drops. Also oneness will lower your PH so you must check the PH after the nutes are in. Get a hanna digital meter for 40 bucks at the very very most.
 

CHUCKTYLAH

Active Member
you have a magnesium defency,two doses of cal mag at half strength will usually fix that pretty qiuck
If you dont know why you have a nutrient defficieny you can't fix it. If it's PH causing the nutrient lockout adding all the cal/mag in the world wont make it take more up.
 

CHUCKTYLAH

Active Member
that is a strong light, & I would not keep the light on all the time, as u r not giving it any downtime, where as most of the growth occurs, etc. u should be on an 18/6 schedule.
Depends how far away the light is............Those plants are established well enough to handle a 1000w at 4-5 feet away. Maybe even closer. I do agree that an 18/6 photoperiod has greater benefits under any HID lighting. Less energy burned, rest time for the girls, makes your lights last longer. I only use a 24 hour photoperiod under florescents or LEDs.
 

mxyz250newb

New Member
For 1000 watt lights close to the plants I have seen others have great success with 16/8 or 17/7 or 18/6...
My next theoretical experiment is 15/9 from seed for veg then 11:30/12:30 for flower, lowering it to 11/13 after 3 weeks, and every week after that lowering it by 20 mins a week (lights on time)

EDIT (fixed a typo where I said day instead of week)
 

redeyez420

Member
that is a strong light, & I would not keep the light on all the time, as u r not giving it any downtime, where as most of the growth occurs, etc. u should be on an 18/6 schedule.
i had 10k watts on at all times 24 hr during my veg and it was no problem,.they ended up looking way better than a buddy of mines with same setup doing 18/6....but thats just with our strains, idk if that applies to everyone else but our babies loved the light. i know people have their preferences but i wouldnt do anything but 24 hour veg.of course thats my opinion from my own experience
 

redeyez420

Member
also the "downtime" in 18/6 when i did it before seemed to make it stretch, not grow. the nodes just stretched farther because night temps around here are 55-60F and the daytime temps with all lights on were 75-80, the difference in the drop in temps made the plants stretch more. ever since i started 24 hrs the nodes on this grow they are all so close to each other all the way down the stem , it is beautiful.
 

Mr.Therapy Man 2

Active Member
If you dont know why you have a nutrient defficieny you can't fix it. If it's PH causing the nutrient lockout adding all the cal/mag in the world wont make it take more up.
That dont look like lockout to me but I dont know everything or pretend to but when I get rust spots 90% of the time cal mag fixes it,My OGs seem to stay magnesium defecient even in soil
 

CHUCKTYLAH

Active Member
I have the light 4 feet away. But should I go to a 18/6?
I would it's really a matter of preference because from what I have seen in my days the extra yield from a 24 hour vege cycle is not that much.

I PH the water prior to adding the nutes. It was at 6.0 when added nutes.
If your PH is 6 before adding oneness the PH is going to be very low. I want to say try setting your PH to 7.2 then add the oneness, but I also use a digital PH meter so I can make sure something odd didn't happen.

That dont look like lockout to me but I dont know everything or pretend to but when I get rust spots 90% of the time cal mag fixes it,My OGs seem to stay magnesium defecient even in soil
a lockout of a nute will look the same as not having enough of the nute.
 
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