lordjin
Well-Known Member
Muchas gracias, amigo.steller grow jen, looking like the end is very near. nice job bro!!!
Muchas gracias, amigo.steller grow jen, looking like the end is very near. nice job bro!!!
You may find this to be an interesting read: https://www.rollitup.org/general-marijuana-growing/409622-truth-about-flushing.htmlOkay, you're twisting my melon, man. Flushing is wrong? WTF? scratching head (and balls).
Wow, that's a lot of plant biology. At a certain point, I felt like I was sitting in high school advanced bio, looking out the window and dreaming about cheerleaders... Lol.You may find this to be an interesting read: https://www.rollitup.org/general-marijuana-growing/409622-truth-about-flushing.html
You've got it figured outWow, that's a lot of plant biology. At a certain point, I felt like I was sitting in high school advanced bio, looking out the window and dreaming about cheerleaders... Lol.
Based upon that article and the report of another poster, I plan to nix my usual abrupt, week-long flush period with a gradual reduction in ppm in this coming week. I'll let the plants drink it down themselves in the next few days and assist the reduction by pumping out and replacing witht the auto top as the week comes to a close. I'm thinking I'll save a pure water flush just for the final 24 hours of dark. Since the plants will just be doing a final 'sugar-gathering' session in that last extended dark period without any photosynthesis occuring, nutrient requirements shouldn't be as much of an issue.
Summary:
Preharvest flushing puts the plant(s) under serious stress. The plant has to deal with nutrient deficiencies in a very important part of its cycle. Strong changes in the amount of dissolved substances in the root-zone stress the roots, possibly to the point of direct physical damage to them. Many immobile elements are no more available for further metabolic processes. We are loosing the fan leaves and damage will show likely on new growth as well.
The grower should react in an educated way to the plant needs. Excessive, deficient or unbalanced levels should be avoided regardless the nutrient source. Nutrient levels should be gradually adjusted to the lesser needs in later flowering. Stress factors should be limited as far as possible. If that is accomplished throughout the entire life cycle, there shouldn’t be any excessive nutrient compounds in the plants tissue. It doesn’t sound likely to the author that you can correct growing errors (significant lower mobile nutrient compound levels) with preharvest flushing.
Drying and curing (when done right) on the other hand have proved (In many studies) to have a major impact on taste and flavour, by breaking down chlorophylls and converting starches into sugars. Most attributes blamed on unflushed buds may be the result of unbalanced nutrition and/or overfert and unproper drying/curing."
Man. You haven't even hit that shit with a good cure yet... Night and day brother. You have no clue how good your weed is about to beWell, as many of you may know from the dispensary buds I've been posting, Ive been smoking some pretty good shit lately. I get high from morning to evening every day on the priciest dispensary meds.
I just finished smoking the last of my Pheno A stash last night (still waiting on the Pheno B to come in), so was without a wake and bake this morning... or so I thought.
A few days ago I noticed a weak lower branch that I had missed. This one was stuck right under the air conditioner box with nowhere to go, so off she came. It was heavier and more developed than my first round of trimmings so I hung it up to dry. This morning I noticed the smaller ones on the bottom of the branch were dry enough to smoke. So i thought, "What the hell, I'm out of Pheno A," and proceeded to trim and stuff in bowl.
Again, I wasn't expecting that much, but as I walked out my front door, I felt like a cloud of invisible energy was carrying me along. It's excellent. The high is very precise and tranquil... very mood-lifting. Even the premature high is outstanding and superior to even the most expensive dispensary shelf stuff. Now I know for sure that my finished bud is gonna be better than anything you'll find in any dispensary.
I'm looking forward to my usual harvest routine. I'll chop and hang and let the nugs dry for about a week. These colas might need a little longer to dry, tho. Once dry enough, I set aside about a half ounce for immediate smoking. As I work on that fresh half, the rest of the stuff is curing. Once I'm through smoking my early half ounce, the rest is heaven.Man. You haven't even hit that shit with a good cure yet... Night and day brother. You have no clue how good your weed is about to be
Dude, don't even get me started on that. There are so many shops in LA now, it's hard to find the good bomb because so many are shady and are selling questionable OG's at 60 and up for 3.5g. I'm really sick of those places, and you can spot one as soon as you walk in and do a visual check of their jars. The clerk always opens the jar saying how super good it is, then you look in and see pissy-smelling airy nugs with lots of shake at the bottom. I hate, hate, hate that. that'll make me walk out of a shop every time (and I have).Also, on the topic of clubs. If you're ever in Norcal, I can give you the names of some places with unbelievable product. You've seen the nugs I throw up I'll toss a couple pics on here to get your mouth watering. My roommate just moved up here from LA last fall, and says there is a huge difference between SoCal and NorCal dispensary weed. I'm not trying to invoke a riot here, because super-insane-dank weed is everywhere. He just mentioned that a lot of club weed in SoCal has a ghetto-grow taste to it. Obviously, this wasn't always the case, and I've seen it more than enough times around here, but he just mentioned the vast amounts of "eh" chronic at "wtf" prices down there. If the prices are high around here, they have a damned good reason to charge it. Why? Because there's a dozen clubs down the block selling 4-Gram 1/8ths of absolute heat for 40 bucks. I really love the OGs, but there is gigantic world of amazing strains. It's easy to let some shitty grower ruin one strain for you. I can go in to one club, and smell their Romulan or Afgoo, and it will be absolute crap. I can immediately go to a different club, and their Romulan or Afgoo is some of the dankest weed I've ever laid eyes on. The good thing about NorCal, is the good weed outweighs the bad. The bad thing about that is, your good weed isn't worth as much if you're trying to sell it.
Just a little off topic ranting
Cheeseberry and BBK
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I'm looking forward to harvesting, my neck and back aren't.Hell yes man. Saturday sound good. Keep doing your thing.
so you're saying I should leave all the jagged little bud leaves on and only cut away the big fan leaves? Or leave everything on initially? That sounds like I could make it work, but it's a bitch trimming wilted leaves... but please be more clear as to how much foliage you're saying to leave on.What are your drying/curing methods? Slower is always better if you can avoid mold. I have an 8 level drying rack which does wonders. One great way to produce a great product is to cut the branches down one by one and lay them next to each-other on your drying nets in the normal recommended drying conditions (dark, cool, light draft). After two to three days, and only then, do you begin trimming. From here, you trim the flowers by making as many cuts as you can while leaving as much sweet leaf as you can. Both of those things are important to the ripening process. At this point, your plant is still living and using the fan leaves you've left intact for a few days. Fortunately, after a few days, the large stems and fan leaves have dumped all the sugar and energy in to the buds you can ask for, so the buds can be individually removed at this point. Now, you should have your entire crop, trimmed and separated from the stem, with as many cuts to the flowers as possible, with as much sugar-coated sweet leaf as you can salvage. Once again, both important. Spread the buds out and separate them in to groups according to size on different screen levels, once again in the drying room. The sweet-leaf you left on the flowers are still living and loaded with what I like to call "dank" energy. Not only will they form to your buds and protect them, but they will continue to supply trichome formation while they dry further. The cuts you made, will help release water from the plant to allow a moderate drying rate, and to fight off mold if humidity is ever an issue. From here, you should wait another 4-6 days before you begin jarring. You will start jarring and finalizing your manicure job on the smallest buds first, working your way up to the largest through the next few days. This means you can jar everything up at the right time. Ever notice that your smallest nugs were way past dry, while your mid-sized ones were just right, and the largest still wet? No more. Anyways, a normal cure from there. But once again, with everything, it's about easing in to it. The plant is still living for a long long time after you chop chop. Utilize this to your advantage and see if you can really up the ya-wowza factor of the final cure. If you have a good method for where your at, I'd say stick to it. But I can't help sharing what I've learned here. I know you're a smart guy and you'll pick up what I'm putting down even if it won't work for your current situation. Keep at it. Super awesome job.
Whats overcrowding? you mean the plants not gettting enough light? i didnt know 4000 watts wasnt enough for 8x9.no offense taken brother...much respect .....
Ive heard that from a guy who claimed hed been growing for 10yrs....
but he was an outdoor grower.... n said outies were better than innies...
So i didnt see him as a reliable source...met him at the club.
Its mght be true ...but i wouldnt say that high temps will cause airy buds...
Ive been growing for 3 yrs already ......
And ive had some realy dense buds in supper high temps...
I can say tht sometimes genetics will play a major role in density of buds...amongst other things....
Airy buds i will attribute also to beasters(plants that are 4+ feet tall), overcrowding, and not enff light or some kinda feeding problem(plant digestion..ie metabolism)...
Maybe you had a bad run it happens .... maybe it was a lil too hot in there....
I just let my plant grow in the high 60's to low 80's... its seems to work.... and trust this aint no cron..lol
Initially, you cut the plant down at each main node near the base. From here, you lay the individual 'branches' fan leaves and all (provided you're bug, mildew, and mold free) side by side with enough air to breath through the foliage. I use netted drying racks but hanging from strings or clotheshangers or whatever works. The point is to spread them evenly in the dark with all the plant material intact. For a few days only. You will have no problem with this, as your plant is mainly a shit ton of calyxes. Wait about two days, and then you remove all fan leaves, and make your manicure-cuts to the jagged little bud leaves near the tips. Now, the point here is to leave as much of the sugary leaf intact, while making a nice cut on the tip to wick away moisture. From here, you now have moderately manicured buds, removed from the stem. All your fan leaves and stems are in a box for hash or whatever. Spread your buds back out on a drying rack separated by size, and give them another 4-6 days to dry. When the smallest ones are ready for the jar up, give them a final manicure and trim off all that extra sweet leaf you left on it (or leave it, some strains are just that dank). From here, you just continue to finish the manicuring prior to jarring for the cure.so you're saying I should leave all the jagged little bud leaves on and only cut away the big fan leaves? Or leave everything on initially? That sounds like I could make it work... but please be more clear as to how much foliage I should leave on.
edit:
I usually hang my main colas for more even drying in the grow cab itself. The medium and smaller buds I lay in a tote I converted to a dryer with a mesh screen... it's pretty cool.
So once again. The process, is simple, and might make your back and neck happy. Instead of chopping and trimming in a 8 hour sitting on day one, you just chop and separate. Day three, remove buds from stems and give it a half-ass'ed manicured to help further the drying process. Day seven to ten, you finalize trimming the sweetleaf and begin jarring the buds, smallest to biggest, over the course of a few days. So take that six hours of work in one night, and stretch it over a few individual steps throughout the process. Hope that helped.We like the buds to dry slowly as this makes for a smoother cure, rather than drying the buds too quickly. When buds are allowed to dry slowly the humidity is closer to that of the inside of the stomata. If cannabis is dried to rapidly, the green taste will remain present in the finished product. According to the time of year, the temperature and the type of heat in your home humidity, airflow, and the density of your buds; drying time can vary from five days to ten days.
Cannabis will continue to cure after it is harvested, while it is drying and even after it is placed into a jar. Just like a fine wine or a gourmet coffee bean, marijuana needs to be cured to achieve the rich, robust, smooth taste that lingers on your palette and in your brain. During the curing period the cannabinoid acids go through the process of decarboxylation into the psychoactive cannabinoids and the terpenes will isomerize to create new polyterpenes. Just as with any other fruit, when cannabis is harvested, the fruit or bud is not dead, it continues to metabolize. If you pick a tomato from your garden and it is still partially green, you would set it in the windowsill to further ripen or metabolize. Another example is a fresh banana, it may still show green on the peel and the fruit inside is hard and the taste is milder, as the banana ages the peel will turn darker yellow and the fruit inside will become softer and have a more rich flavor. The more robust flavors and tantalizing fragrances begin to appear as the chlorophyll and other pigments begin to break down.