Thanks. Rep'd
Dyna-Gro vs Advanced Nutrients Connoisseur (AK47 Grow)
- Thread starter homebrewer
- Start date
HB, can you help me understand something? I'm doing some research online about NPK ratios and it's a bit confusing. Dyna BLOOM has 3-12-6. Conni has a combined NPK of 5-5-10. Are you striving for a target PPM or do you measure by quantity? It seems to me that at 1200ppm for something like Sensi A/B (or conni) you would have to use a lot and it doesn't burn the girls, but 1200ppm for DynaBLOOM is on the high end and would have a negative impact. I'm asking because I wanted to use a bottle of Overdrive (1-5-4) mixed with a bottle of DynaGROW I have (7-9-5) since combining those two will give me appx the NPK ratio I want. Thanks.
homebrewer
Well-Known Member
DO NOT use overdrive with DynaGro. That's like putting A1 steak sauce on a steak.
I feed at a particular ppm/EC level no matter what nutes I'm using. 1200ppm is 1200ppm, regardless of brand. Some just make better use of their formulas.
drekoushranada
Well-Known Member
Now this is a good grow. My Dyna Gro Bloom and Grow just can in the mail. My plants are about week old. Im about to start them at 300ppm. Great job HB.
medicine21
Active Member
How do you cool your buckets?I also added more air to my buckets, and cool them to under 70 degrees. I finally have a grow that looks like one of Homebrewers.
see my day 28 pics earlier in this thread.
How come some people are able to go as high as 1650-1800 for Sensi A/B or some other brand but with DynaBloom it burns?
burrr
Well-Known Member
That's a good question! Maybe if you slowly ramp up your numbers you can harden your plants up to handle those numbers. I have found my sweet spot to be around 1.1 EC, or 550 ppm on my brand of meter. Don't forget that some of those people running 1500 ppm and up may be using the other conversion factors, and be closer to 1.1 EC than it looks like.
wait... what?! ppm's vary from meter to meter? Oh wait, you meant conversion. Yeah, my friends and I use the same brand of bluelab meters, so we go by ppm. some of 'em get their ppm's pretty up there. I'm not sure what all that means because it seems to me that at 700-800 ppm for HB, he's still getting the same results as some of the other people I know who get up to 1450 ppm...
lunchbox421
Active Member
Homebrewer I like your comparisons. A1 sauce on a steak is just blasphemous, a little salt is all you need 
homebrewer
Well-Known Member
No one feeding at 1650-1800 on any scale is getting the best results possible. I'm on the 442 scale or .7 conversion so my 'ppm' will be the highest number out of the 3 scales. People that feed that high simply do not know what they're doing. As I stated before, you can load up on nutes week after week and not see immediate damage, but it will show eventually and absolutely affect the final yield.
Trichy Bastard
Well-Known Member
There is alot to understand about nutes. You could literally get a degree in chemistry and horticulture, and still alot to learn. Believe it or not, the plants only use around 600 ppm max- or less. According to fatman, who really knew this subject- the rest of the nutrients are being used as buffers in the solution to make up for certain conditions and imbalances that develop by recirculating nutrient systems. This is why true aero with DTW, you only need to feed a max of 650 ppm ever. It is because none of it is being used up as buffers for a recirculating solution. I always chuckle when people brag about how much they're feeding their plants, they don't realize that it means something is fairly out of balance in their solution, and is an unhealthy, less efficient system where they are literally pouring money down the drain to have less desirable end product. The nute manufacturers don't bother telling us what really is going on, but create their formulas to be able to cope with the growing conditions that most people use. I am finding out fast that in aero, the nutes formulated for traditional hydro are pretty unbalnced in sheer terms of what the plant actually needs, because they have to make chemical remedies for the imbalances that develop in the mainstream systems, so alot of the ratios are tied up in that very way. Homebrewer knows his stuff, I'd say he pretty much is maxing out the potential of his style of growing, that's why he is able to get such good results with less ppms...
That is why more is not better...How does someone make better use of their formulas?
I read all of fatman's posts. the guy is a straight up scientist. Any idea how to contact him? I checked his website but it doesn't have a message link or anything...There is alot to understand about nutes. You could literally get a degree in chemistry and horticulture, and still alot to learn. Believe it or not, the plants only use around 600 ppm max- or less. According to fatman, who really knew this subject- the rest of the nutrients are being used as buffers in the solution to make up for certain conditions and imbalances that develop by recirculating nutrient systems. This is why true aero with DTW, you only need to feed a max of 650 ppm ever. It is because none of it is being used up as buffers for a recirculating solution. I always chuckle when people brag about how much they're feeding their plants, they don't realize that it means something is fairly out of balance in their solution, and is an unhealthy, less efficient system where they are literally pouring money down the drain to have less desirable end product. The nute manufacturers don't bother telling us what really is going on, but create their formulas to be able to cope with the growing conditions that most people use. I am finding out fast that in aero, the nutes formulated for traditional hydro are pretty unbalnced in sheer terms of what the plant actually needs, because they have to make chemical remedies for the imbalances that develop in the mainstream systems, so alot of the ratios are tied up in that very way. Homebrewer knows his stuff, I'd say he pretty much is maxing out the potential of his style of growing, that's why he is able to get such good results with less ppms...
homebrewer
Well-Known Member
Better ratios, more complete mineral content.
Trichy Bastard
Well-Known Member
I don't know Jamesking, He was banned from the forum here for being an ass. But he was smart- so I guess he was a real smartass?
All I have ever used in my hydro set up is Dyna Grow and Bloom. I just started hydro a few years ago and I have always had pretty good results. I was thinking about trying something else until I read this thread. I think ill stick to Dyna cause its cheap and use the extra money to get bigger lights.
Thank you Uncle Rico for the great thread.
Thank you Uncle Rico for the great thread.
hornedfrog2000
Well-Known Member
I would rather use less nutes anyway. @ like $50 a gallon that is.
what ppm do you run your cycle at? and are you in rockwool as well?
HB, I'm changing rez today so can you tell me if this is right?
I'm going to shoot for a target PPM of 850. Tap water is 300. So I will add 550ppm of DynaBLOOM to the water making it the perfect 850. Now, I want to add additives. So do I follow directions for adding the additives (actually, more like half strength) and stop worrying about the PPM?