The Official House and Garden Thread
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Jozikins
Well-Known Member
I'm sorry it is their Cell Enhancer. It is a product you use from finish to crop, and it gives me super strength veg plants and monster buds. I notice a big difference without it. Use between 1-5ml per gallon.
I don't even know if this product is available to the public yet, but I hooked a vendor up, so he hooked me up with some in return.
I don't even know if this product is available to the public yet, but I hooked a vendor up, so he hooked me up with some in return.
That shit is tough to find. A store in the UK has 20 liters for about $525 but would be more than a lifetimes supply, i'm an old fart! Anyone know a source for a smaller amount?
The UK H&G web site says it's "coming soon". So not available there yet either.
Beansly
RIU Bulldog
Just a quick update for anyone keeping track. I lower my nutrient doses because I thought I was using too much. I was going EXACTLY by the online nutrient calculator; Comp 1 - veg 4 wks - flower 7 wks - 3 gallon res.
well after two weeks of cutting the dose by 50%, my plants were showing deficiencies.
Idk if my plants just like high EC, or if H&G is just that spot on, but now Im back at 100%.
Fwiw.
Jozikins
Well-Known Member
Ah I see. That sucks. I guess I'll have to wait once I am all out. I bribed a vendor for this stuff so that is the only reason I have it. H&G is brewing up all sorts of new stuff. But I hate the idea of them becoming the next AN. I know all these fertilizers have a benefit, I just hate them being put in front of me when I have money in my pocket!
Me too. When I gave you those numbers it was when my TDS meter went wayyy off whack without me knowing it, and I was just trying to keep my PPM's low enough to feed to my plants. It turned out I was slowly starving them. Now I try and stay under 8ml a gallon of A&B, instead of going to that full 10 or 11ml, tonight I went up to 9ml. My plants are a little more sensitive and do well with almost full strength of the "light feeding schedule".
I don't doubt for a second that some plants like your own do much better with full strength. The more diversity I get in my garden the better I understand this. I am sorry if I steered you wrong or diminished your yield. But next time I'm in your neck of the desert I'll throw you some beans of some low PPM feeders. Save yourself some money on top quality genetics and fertliziers, yo.
Beansly
RIU Bulldog
Not at all.
It was actually the guys at Mandala Seeds that convinced me I was over feeding my plants. I was actually tring to keep the ferts under 1.0 EC] as per Mandala instructions. No offense.
They say that regarding their [Mandala] genetics (something I should've taking into consideration since I'm not growing Mandala any strains), heavy feeding is not necessary as (so they say), their genetics are so well selected, that they don't need heavy feeding.
Mandala's whole mantra is organic soil growing with EWC/compost tea feedings ONLY if the plant shows defs. They actually advise not fertilizing your plants at all.
They [mandala guys] made a good argument about how more and more breeders are selecting plants that need high EC values. I worte down my favoite nuggets from the mandala website. They discuss a lot of tha myths out there like adding perlite or coco to your soil or using pk13/14 fertilizers (which made me start wondering about H&G tbh) Here's what I liked;
(if you want to check out for yourself, heres the website--->http://www.mandalaseeds.com/Guides/Quick-Start
It's under the grow guides tab)
http://www.mulchandsoilcouncil.org/certification/premium.php
When you open a bag of soil it should not contain the following:
* a strong unpleasant odour such as sulfuric or moldy
* a high % of non-composted materials (bark, wood chips, twigs, gravel, coal, etc.)
* a visible amount of sand
* substantial amounts of coco coir, perlite, vermiculite, or expanded clay pebbles
* a mainly coarse, fibrous, dense or clumpy texture
If a product "nourishes plants continuously up to 3 months" this tells you that the mix contains adequate NPK levels for indoor cannabis in the first 4-5 weeks of growth using a 4-5 Liter/1 gallon container. Or for indoor cannabis up to 2+ months using 10 Liter/2 gallon container*.
Do not buy products which state info such as “It is essential to begin fertilization within 7 days after planting and maintain fertilizer applications throughout the course of crop production.” This tells you that the soil has very low levels of nutrients and won’t support your plants beyond the early seedling stage. Pro-Mix BX is one such brand that should be avoided. This soil mix has only 70-130 mg/l of nitrogen and 25-80 mg/l of phosphate. These are levels even below standard soil mixes for seedlings.
quality potting soil - the texture is fluffy & soft, made from fine-grade sphagnum peat, the white specks are traces of perlite. Notice how little perlite professional potting soil contains (1% of total volume)! One of the most common mistakes growers make is to ruin their soil mix with high amounts of perlite.
Soil brands to avoid:
* Plagron
* Bio Bizz
* Pro-Mix BX
A selection of brands in North America:
Fafard Professional Potting Mix
Kellogg Potting Soil
Supersoil Potting Soil
Sunshine All Purpose Planting Mix
Scotts Potting Soil
Miracle-Gro Potting Mix
Miracle-Gro Organic Choice Potting Mix
Fox Farm Ocean Forest
Fox Farm Happy Frog
For germination:
Scotts Seed Starting Mix
Miracle-Gro Seed Starting Mix
Fox Farm Light Warrior
Avoid products that have:
* "Extended release" or "controlled release" fertilizer (not suitable for a fast growing plant like cannabis)
* "Lightweight formula" (not enough nutrients to support long-term growth...use only for germination or rooting clones)
* Instructions such as: “it is essential to begin fertilization within 7 days after planting” (only suitable for seedlings and only for 1 week)
Small containers can cause the following problems:
* early nutrient deficiencies (especially nitrogen during growth)
* stunted growth
* delay in flowering
* higher ratio of males
* male flowers on female plants
* low yield
The container size has to be chosen according to the following factors:
* indoor or outdoor cultivation
* indoor light intensity
* type of strain (short flowering indica or longer flowering sativa)
* growing from seed or clones
* size of plants
Can I use any potting soil for germinating seeds?
Generally speaking, the premium potting soils listed here can also be used for germinating seeds. There are only a few exceptions to this rule such as products containing guano. Fox Farm Ocean Forest is one such example. This soil mix can be too "hot" for seedlings. Do a test with 2-3 seeds in the soil you plan to use. If you are in doubt buy a soil mix for starting seeds or a soil with lightweight formula. The main advantage of soil mixes for seedlings is that they are finer grade and it is easier to fill small cups and plant the seeds. They usually have only half of the usual fertilizer content. That's why you should start seeds in small pots and then transplant into the standard potting soil within a few days.
Do you recommend any particular product that enhances soil cultivation?
Endomycorrhiza is an excellent supplement. It is added very sparsely (approx.1% only) to the soil mix and greatly enhances overall health in the root zone.
Rock dust is another beneficial product. It contains up to 100 minerals! Adding Rock Dust mineral content to a soil increases bacterial activity and promotes new root growth. These extended root systems allow plants to increase their mineral intake, and provide for even stronger, healthier plants. It is used sparsely and is very inexpensive.
Is it necessary to add anything for drainage such as perlite, vermiculite, sand, expanded clay pebbles?
It is best not to add any additional materials to your potting soil. Horticultural grade potting soil is perfectly mixed for the best air-water ratio. Adding more non-nutritive substances depletes the water retention capacity of the soil, it unnecessarily "stretches" the soil and reduces the total amount of nutrients available to the plant, and it creates dry pockets in the container.
Adding a large amount of perlite/vermiculite (some growers add as much as 25%!) is a completely outdated practice from 30-40 years ago when there was only a very small selection of horticultural potting soil available for non-commercial gardeners. It is one of the unfortunate harmful practices in cannabis cultivation that many still cling to although they do not understand the reason or consequences.
Especially harmful is to fill the bottom of the container with coarse materials such as expanded clay pebbles. This is where most roots grow down looking for water and nutrients! If they reach a dry and sterile layer of substrate the delicate root hairs shrivel, valuable space is lost where the plant requires rich soil that stores moisture and minerals.
If you are planting outdoor and your soil is too compact a modest addition of perlite/vermiculite or sand helps to increase drainage. Humus, such as from compost, is the best additive because it also provides many microorganisms and nutrients to the soil mix.
Can I add guano to my potting soil?
NO! Guano is extremely potent and easily burns plants. You should avoid using guano for any indoor cultivation. It can only be used in small amounts for greenhouse or outdoor gardening in the ground and in large containers. Once you mix guano into the soil you can't remove it! For outdoor use it is also best to only apply small amounts onto the top layer of the soil.
What about Dutch soil mixes sold in the grow shops?
Up till now we have not received any satisfying feedback on Dutch soil products except for CANNA Professional. We do not recommend soil products from Bio Bizz or Plagron. Most of them are too strongly fertilized for indoor cultivation and others are too light and require a complicated supplementary feeding schedule with liquid fertilizers. For example, All Mix has an EC of 2,4! That will easily burn your plants and create many complications. Plagron Royalty Mix and Plagron Bat Mix are also "hot" and contain guano. Bio Bizz Light Mix requires a feeding program and is not sufficiently pre-fertilized for natural growth. The point of growing in soil is to have an easy and uncomplicated cultivation and that is not guaranteed with these products.
What to watch out for
There are various other scales or measurement systems used to measure the EC. These are called CF (conductivity factor), ppm (parts per million), and TDS (total dissolved solids). North American growers tend to use ppm and European growers use EC.
The problem with these other measurement systems is that they are all based on the EC but the manufacturers then use their own system of conversion to convert the EC to ppm, TDS or CF. These conversions are not as accurate as when you simply measure the nutrient salts with an EC meter in the first place! This means that each tester/meter will give you a different reading. You cannot tell what the EC is when you use a TDS or ppm meter. You cannot even compare readings between a TDS or ppm meter from different manufacturers!
Other systems make it very difficult to provide advice and for growers to compare information on their fertilizing methods and dosages. That’s why we always recommend to purchase an EC meter and avoid this confusion. You can then easily follow our advice on fertilizing and you always get accurate readings.
If you already have an expensive ppm or CF meter that you want to keep using here is a conversion table for some popular meters.
A #1 seed killer is a closed humidity dome/mini-greenhouse.
Humidity domes are only required for rooting cuttings.
Many growers make the mistake of thinking that they need a high ambient humidity for germination or seedlings. This is an unfortunate myth of cannabis cultivation. The high humidity and lack of fresh ventilation quickly causes fungus in the soil or growing medium and the seeds can rot!
Cannabis is not an orchid or swamp plant! The seeds need a well aerated growing medium to germinate well. Seedlings also cannot tolerate high humidity and can easily be attacked by fungus such as fusarium and pythium. Only the soil or growing medium should be moist for optimal germination and seedling growth. Ambient humidity is best at or below 50%.
You can use a humidity dome/mini-greenhouse as a tray for germination but you must keep the lid half-way open or completely seperate to ensure fresh air exchange and humidity levels at or below 50%.
Things to avoid
* soaking seeds in water/wet paper tissue
* humidity dome/mini-greenhouse fully covered
* heating mat too hot
* covering pots with plastic
* germinating in jiffy's and peat pellets
* wrong soil for germination
* fertilizing seedlings
* too much/too little water
* cold and dark germination room
* cold outdoor temperatures; frost
* wrong pH of water
* bad water quality
* high EC of nutrient solution in hydroponics
* spraying seedlings with water/organic teas/pesticides
For germination and seedlings you should always use high quality water: “soft” mineral water with pH 6.5 and low levels of sodium is best. The pH should be adjusted to the ideal range with vinegar so that there are no salts which can inhibit germination or damage the seedlings. In hydroponics a very weak nutrient solution of EC 0.6 is usually used. For germination pure water is also sufficient until the seedling appears.
Avoiding Misdiagnosis
“Incorrect pH belongs to the most serious nutrient disorders in organic-soil gardens. Many complex biological processes occur between organic fertilizers and the soil during nutrient uptake. The pH is critical to the livelihood of these activities.” (Marijuana Horticulture, Jorge Cervantes)
Many plant problems that are attributed by the grower to lack of fertilizer or poor genetics are in actual fact caused by the wrong pH of the growing medium or water (most often of water).
Failure to adjust the pH to the desirable range will result in several negative symptoms, that will range from mild to chronic, depending on the severity and duration of the pH unbalance:
* single nutrient deficiency or multiple nutrient deficiencies causing any of the following: stunted growth, yellowing, dark blotches on leaves, small dark-blue leaves, contorted shoots, shriveled growth, leaf curl or burn, leaf drop, delayed flowering, low yield, etc.
* higher ratio of males during sexing
* appearance of male flowers on females
* vulnerability to mold and fungus
* vulnerability to pests
Fertilizing a plant that is suffering from a pH imbalance usually increases the cycle of problems. It may show a brief respite to symptoms, but only because the fertilizer added to the water may have changed the pH favourably for a short time. Without paying attention to the actual problem and adjusting the pH to the correct range your plants will continue to suffer and you will lose yield on a daily basis.
Hydroponics
Due to the constant availability of nutrients in a solvent form in hydroponics there is a greater range of tolerance in pH fluctuation. Cannabis grows well hydroponically within a range of 5.5-6.5. Usually the pH is regulated to 5.8-6.0 for hydroponic systems with a growing medium that has been stabilized.
The ideal pH and pH fluctuation in hydroponics depends on several factors that you have to evaluate on an individual basis because each hydroponic system is different due to the following:
* water quality
* growing medium (coco coir, rockwool, hydro correls, mixture of several mediums, other substrates, or mainly pure water such as aero-flow and bubbler)
* nutrient products used and their buffer capacity
* additional products or buffer agents used
* type of watering system & watering schedule
* EC of nutrient solution
* size of nutrient solution tank or plant container
* room temperature
* size of plants and their nutrient uptake
Successful gardening cannot be bought in a bottle. Mainly ignore what the multi-billion dollar agrochemical industry is trying to sell to you. They don't even test their products scientifically on large-scale marijuana plantations. Focus on the essentials because that is all your plants need.
Keep it simple. Mastering simplicity is the foundation of gardening. It makes you learn from your plants. Once you have achieved this you can proceed to more complicated cultivation methods.
Your plants know how to grow! They have been doing it since thousand of years. The less you interfere in natural development the better the results. Learn how to assist your plants with basic, but essential, gardening tasks.
Learn how to grow you Mandala plants indoor in soil with no extra fertilizer or only minimal feedings to top-up nutrients. This is the easy plant care that they were created for! Read our guides for expert tips on how this can be achieved in easy steps.
Manage your hydroponic cultivation with low to medium range EC levels (i.e. approx. EC 1.0+ based on a starting EC of 0.4-0.5). You will be surprised how healthy and big your crop is. Overfeeding is a chronic problem in cannabis gardens that leads to prematurely shortened flowering times, lower yields, poor calyx-leaf ratio, bud mold, pest susceptibility, inferior aroma/taste, and increased pollution from fertilizer run-off.
Essential Knowledge About Nutrient Dosage
Let's start with the small print on the bottles which your would generally use as orientation for mixing your nutrient solution.
What many do not know: the recommended EC value is always based on osmosis water with an EC of 0.0!
* Example: Ionic recommends an EC of 2.0 for flowering in hydroponics. From this value the cultivator must deduct the EC of the tapwater in order to calculate the actual recommended dosage.
Let's say your water has an EC of 0.6. Then you calculate 2.0 – 0.6 = 1.4 EC.
The recommended maximum dosage is therefore 1.4 EC.
Canna and other Dutch companies generally recommend even higher values. So the necessity of being aware of this formula is quite apparent. Although one really must ask how the plants should survive long term on levels of 2.0 – 2.2 EC, most customers actually use such strong dosages in their grow because they are unaware of this essential information. The result is not only a waste of fertilizer in hydroponic systems. Plant care also becomes much more complicated and problematic. Regular flushings with water or weak nutrient solution are necessary at such high EC levels in hydroponics. On the one hand, the plants grow very fast (they stretch, get leafy, etc.), and, on the other hand, they develop complex symptoms of over- and underfertilization from the high salt content in the substrate.
In the end massive overdoses of nutrients lead to a high risk of mold in the flowering phase, reduced levels of resistance against pests, lower yields, male flowers on females, and possibly pose a health risk from radioactive traces in the cannabis (from phosphate).
For the cultivation in soil there is a common rule among cultivators to use 50% of the recommended dosages. Growers follow this rule without actually knowing what salt concentration they are feeding their plants with. For soil cultivation an EC meter is the most important tool to find out what the proper dosage is. This is why everyone who values their plants should not save on this rather moderate investment of 45$/Euro!
Testing Dosages Given by The Industry
To demonstrate how important the EC level is we have tested 5 popular types of fertilizer. Only the fertilizer for flowering was selected because during this phase growers fertilize the most (after the motto: more fertilizer = more yield). Yet during this part of the life cycle plants become increasingly sensitive to excess mineral salts.
Before we look at the results it is important to understand one thing: generally one should never fertilize more than 0.8 EC on soil. You can fertilize up to 1.0 EC if you have to quickly reverse deficiencies in adult outdoor plants. For indoor we recommend 0.65-0.7 EC for all Mandala strains that need to be fertilized.
The first important step is to find out what the EC of your tapwater is. In this example we are using a 50-50 mix of reverse osmosis water and normal tapwater to get 0.43 EC. Obviously, if you have a value over 0.8 in your tapwater you have to lower the EC level through filtration. For small gardens it's sufficient to use a Britt Filter if you do not have the money to buy a household reverse osmosis filter (approx. 100$/Euro). The Britt filter can reduce the EC level by 0.15-0.20. Another alternative would be to buy 5L/1 gallon bottles of non-carbonated mineral water when you fertilize. Good mineral water has approx. 0.25 EC.
The Mandala female plants are repotted into larger containers after sexing. The container size is adjusted to the size of the plants and their expected flowering time. Read our SOIL GUIDE for info on recommended container size.
Short flowering indicas and small strains do not receive any extra fertilizer during flowering unless an individual plant shows a mild deficiency.
Longer flowering sativas and sativa-indicas are given 1x a nutrient solution with NPK 5-6-7 or 4-8-6 and 0.65 EC after aprox. one month of repotting. At this stage they are usually in day 45-50 of flowering. This is when significant waves of new bud development occur. Some nutrients have now been depleted to a certain level in the container and a liquid feeding can give the plants a boost. At 2-3 weeks before harvest the plants still have the energy to assimilate and utilize new nutrients.
As flowering reaches the final phase and the plant is nearing the end of it's life cycle a biochemical change occurs and cannabis plants switch to using up mainly nutrients stored in the plant tissue/leaves. This is also accompanied with a minimized uptake of water. It is not recommended to fertilize anymore during this phase. This can cause premature wilting of pistils, bud mold, or isolated male flowers in cannabis.
Greenhouse/Outdoor:
Container plants receive 2-3 mild feedings with a liquid flowering fertilizer and 0.7-0.75 EC.
Plants in the ground are fertilized according to individual requirements. Strains or plants that are shorter, more early, or very nutrient efficient will probably flower until harvest without any need for an extra feeding because we use high quality soil.
Greenhouse and outdoor plants are sometimes fertilized with a moderate dosage of granular time-release fertilizer. We have included some tips on using time-release fertilizer below.
In the last 2 weeks of flowering we stop fertilizing and let the plants use up the stored nutrients in the plant tissue and soil naturally. In the last weeks before harvest the plants are practically "dying" and absorb only small amounts of nutrients.
Hydroponics and EC
Use an EC at the low-medium range (i.e. EC 1.0-1.6). This recommendation is based on a starting EC of 0.4-0.5 of your water. Adjust accordingly if your water has a very different EC and consider purifying your water if the EC is high. During flowering most Mandala strains can be grown with approx. EC 1.0-1.2. The best EC for your hydroponic setup has to be determined by yourself through practice and observation. There is no standard guideline.
The optimal EC depends on many factors such as:
* the choice of strain
* the stage of the plant's life cycle (seedling, young adult, early flowering, late flowering; adult mother plant; seeded plant)
* light intensity
* style & frequency of watering
* how the nutrient solution is replenished
* water quality
* temperature
* CO2 supplement
* pH fluctuation
* substrate used
* fertilizer brand and NPK ratio
As you can see there are many factors that play a role in nutrient uptake and nutrient demand!
Be prepared to adjust the EC once any of the above factors change significantly. For example, nutrient demand changes if temperature fluctuates and an EC that is perfect in summer may need to be modified during winter months.
You will be surprised how little fertilizer is required to grow our high performance strains. Mandala plants are bred to utilize nutrients extremely efficiently (not to be confused with nutrient sensitivity). They are not finicky...as hydroponic cultivations maintained on high EC levels have proven. Our strains are tuned for optimal performance. Their profuse root growth, thick stems, and large leaves function as super-highways and storage houses for the uptake, assimilation, and storage of nutrients.
Remember: You can always adjust your EC upwards a bit if required...but you can't reverse damage from overfeeding.
By using an EC level that sufficiently provides for your plants without going over the top you will have a less care-intensive grow time, save $$ on fertlizer, achieve even higher yields and optimal calyx-leaf ratio, and enjoy better tasting herb.
Avoid a product range that incorporates P-K 13/14. This extremely potent mix of phosphoric and potassium acid is a total overkill and one of the "evils" of the agrochemical industry. It is mined and produced in an environmentally detrimental way and puts a severe strain on cannabis plants when they are "forced" to flower. You can easily ruin a good crop with overfeeding P-K.
Avoiding Misdiagnosis
A regular occurence in cannabis cultivation is that pH related symptoms are confused with deficiencies. The pH of your water or nutrient solution must always be adjusted to the correct value. Please read our WATER & PH GUIDE for more details.
Some growers claim that their plants are thriving on very high EC levels and have no problems whatsoever. There are mainly two reasons for this assertion:
1. These are strains that are genetically predisposed to grow under high amounts of fertilizer (hydroponic generations, etc.)
2. The cultivator does not recognize the negative symptoms/damage from overfeeding (this occurs quite often)
Even if your plants look nice and green for some time, as you continue to fertilize with high EC levels eventually you will run into one or more of the following symptoms of overfertilization.
Symptoms of Overfertilization
* leaf curl
* leaf edge burn
* necrotic (brown) spots on leaves
* leaf wilting and leaf drop
* withering shoots
* multi-nutrient blockage
* overly lush & shiny green foliage (usually combined with slow flowering)
* "runaway" spindly & weak shoots
* uncontrolled growth
* slow root development
* delayed flowering
* high ratio of males
* male flowers on females
* elongated buds
* leafy buds
* sudden wilting of pistils
* premature end to flowering
* bud mold
* increased pest susceptibility
Examples of some of the above mentioned symptoms.
Common Mistakes
* insecurity and worries about not getting enough yield
* mistaking pH related symptoms with deficiencies
* mistaking natural reddish-purple plant colouration for phosphorous deficiency
* using recommended dosages of the product without measuring the EC
* not deducting the EC of the tapwater from the recommended EC
* using high nutrient levels in hydroponics or soil to "force" growth or flowering
* treating soil cultivation as if it offers no nutrients to the plants
* using small containers of soil and compensating with a standard "feeding schedule"
* combining low light cultivation with too much fertilizer
* fertilizing plants that are perfectly healthy (soil)
* fertilizing seedlings (soil)
* fertilizing plants prior to, or after, repotting in fresh soil
* ignoring individual nutrient requirements of plants (collective feeding)
* fertilizing indoor with pure guano
* fertilizing outdoor flowering plants with pure guano or fish emulsion
* using super-phosphate fertilizer, PK 13-14, or double digit NPK formula (i.e. 15-30-15 or similar)
* combining bud boosters or PK 13-14 products with the nutrient solution
* not testing new products on a small portion of plants first
Fertilizing on soil is always the worse choice compared to fresh soil and sufficient root space! Don't be tempted to believe that a lot of fertilizing will give you better results. This is a myth from the agrochemical industry that wants to sell their products in huge quantities. Our environment is already suffering worldwide from the results.
Fertilizer should be used with extreme care indoor and seen only as a minor supplement to top up nutrients or to assist in cases of accidental deficiencies. In hydroponics moderate EC levels should be used instead of heroic dosages to "force" flowering. For outdoor fertilizing must be dosaged in accordance with soil quality and size of plants.
Choosing Soil
We recommend brands such as Klassman KT2, FoxFarm Ocean Forest, Pindstrup Universal, CompoSana Universal/Flower/Bio or Plantacion (Spain), CANNA Professional, FloraGard Vital Blumenerde or comparable FloraGard soil mixes for flowers/plants. Use a seedling mix for germinating your seeds. Further details in our SOIL GUIDE.
Worm manure and compost is a valuable additive (use 20% in your mix). In European grow shops you can purchase a quality soil product imported from Holland called CANNA Professional. We do not recommend the soil products from Bio Bizz and Plagron.
Heavily fertilized soils like Bio Bizz All-Mix have shown not to be suitable for indoor grows. They contain too much nitrogen, have an extremely high EC (salt) level, and are better used for outdoor where the plants have a longer growth period.The Light Mix offered by Plagron, etc. is extremely low in any nutrients and completely unsuitable for any natural soil cultivation.
Good soil for cannabis cultivation has the following formula:
Compo Sana Universal
pH 5.5-6.5
N:200-450 mg/L
P:200-400 mg/L
K:300-500 mg/L
Common Mistakes
With quality horticultural grade soil you do not need to mix additional perlite. This is a completely outdated practice from 30+ years ago when there was a much smaller selection of horticultural potting soil available for non-commercial gardeners. Nowadays all quality horticultural grade soil for flowering or potted plants is manufactured with a perfect air-to-water ratio.
* Do not use sand, coco fibre, or hydro correls in your potting mix. These materials do not contain any nutrients, which can lead to a deficiency in pots when plants grow larger.
* Hydro correls change the pH of the soil (it becomes more alkaline with pH 7-
.* Growers mixing potting soil with considerable amounts of coco coir can end up with a large percentage of male plants.
* Nutrient deficiencies and nutrient overabundance (ie. up to the point of serious overfertilizing) can both cause serious changes in the pH and salt levels of the growing medium. This affects biochemical changes in the plants during sexing or pre-flowering and can increase the ratio of male plants or trigger the appearance of male flowers on females.
Nitrogen deficiency:
Causes
A serious pest infestation of aphids, white flies, or spider mites that suck out the leaves leads to deficiency symptoms.
Too small container size for adult plants is one of the most common mistakes in cannabis growing. Especially in light intensive situations such as balcony or garden grows the plants will quickly yellow and wilt. Don't be too lazy and repot your plants. You can do this up to the third week of flowering even.
Poor soil quality. The second major cause for a deficiency. The importance of using quality grade horticultural soil cannot be stressed enough. Do not use topsoil from the forest if you are not certain about it's nitrogen content. Decomposed leaf material contains no nitrogen (obviously since these are the yellowed leaves shed by the trees!) and makes up for a large percentage of forest topsoil. Also loamy and sandy soil are mainly devoid of important nutrients. If you do utilize such soil in guerilla grows, etc. then make sure to supplement it with long term acting fertilizer, or enrich it with a mix of organic nutrients (bat guano, composted soil, etc.) that have sufficient quantities of nitrogen to support plant growth.
A pH imbalance will block nutrient uptake in the root zone. Make sure that you keep the pH within the acceptable range for soil or hydroponics.
Lack of fertilizing. A minimum of fertilizing on soil is usually necessary to boost plant growth, since cannabis tends to grow faster than the roots can assimilate the natural nutrients in soil. In low light situations or indoors this is less of an issue than in a greenhouse/outdoors/or in a setup using CO2. With high quality soil and a good container size you can probably do without any grow fertilizer if you are cultivating short to medium sized plants.
Symptoms
The lower leaves yellow between the veins until the entire leaf is eventually yellow. It wilts and dies.
The symptoms spread upwards affecting all sun leaves and then the smaller and younger leaves as well.
Plant growth is inhibited. The plants remain short and underdeveloped if nitrogen deficiency is severe in the growth phase.
During flowering early deficiency can lead to a significant decrease in yield. Plants that are in the last 3 weeks of flowering do not require nitrogen if they have remained reasonably healthy up to that point. A yellowing and shedding of leaves during the final weeks of flowering is quite natural among otherwise healthy plants and should not be held up by heroic dosages of nitrogen (which would result in many undesirable complications such as: mold, sudden stop in bud development, dying of pistils, over-fertilization, rejuvenation/leaf growth in buds).
Appearance of male flowers on female plants.
Phosphorus deficiency:
Causes
Poor soil quality lacking sufficient amounts of phosphorus; loamy or waterlogged soil.
A pH imbalance will block nutrient uptake in the root zone. Make sure that you keep the pH within the acceptable range for soil or hydroponics (between 5.8 and 6.
.Lack of fertilizing. A minimum of fertilizing on soil is usually necessary to boost plant growth, since cannabis tends to grow faster than the roots can assimilate the natural nutrients in soil. During flowering the phosphorus stored in the plant is gradually used up. Low to medium range dosages of a quality grade fertilizer are sufficient to prevent any serious P deficiency in the peak period of flowering if you cultivating on soil. In hydroponics the plants have a steady supply of readily available nutrients, so it is not necessary to increase EC levels and "force" plants to produce more buds. This can backfire and lead to over-fertilization with all it's accompanying problems. If you do want to give your plants more P without raising the EC level, then consider adding osmosis water to your tap water to lower the starting EC level. This way you can add some more fertilizer without affecting the regular EC level of the nutrient solution.
Over-fertilization. Too many salts in your medium will cause phosphate to become chemically bound and unavailable to the plants. In hydroponics you can flush the system. But in soil grows this is more of a problem since you will wash out important nutrients and cause the soil to become waterlogged.
Symptoms:
In young plants a deficiency slows growth. The plants are underdeveloped with a poor root zone and small bluish-green leaves.
In flowering plants the leaves turn reddish-purple. This generally starts at the leaf tips and spreads towards the leaf stem. Stems may also redden. In acute cases leaves turn necrotic and fall off.
Bud growth and yield will be below average if a deficiency sets in during early to mid-flowering.
Seeded plants will have less well developed seeds.
Lack of vigor and overall lack of mold and pest resistance.
Potassium deficiency:
Causes
Poor soil quality.
Over-fertilization. Also here the same principles apply as with phosphorus.
Symptoms
A potassium deficiency sometimes resembles lack of nitrogen in the first stages of leaf deterioration. But the difference is that the leaves also develop rust-colored spots. Eventually the affected leaves wilt and drop.
The leaf tips on healthy leaves may turn brown and resemble the symptoms of over-fertilization. This is due to a disruption in transpiration (since potassium regulates the opening and closing of the stomata on the leaf surface, where water evaporates from the plant and gases such as CO2 are drawn in).
In severe cases the stems become brittle.
A deficiency is more common in older plants and therefore the flowering phase will be negatively affected. You can expect low yields.
Magnesium deficiency
Causes
Acidic soil (pH 5.0-5.
.Cold and water-logged/soggy soil.
Over-fertilization (nutrient blockage especially from high amounts of nitrate, potassium, and calcium).
"Hard" water with high calcium content can bind Magnesium in the soil (mix your tap water with osmosis water).
Symptoms
First indications resemble nitrogen deficiency: the lower to middle leaves yellow between the veins until the entire leaves are eventually yellow.
Rusty spots appear dotted throughout the leaves which distinguishes Mg deficiency from lack of nitrogen.
The leaf edges appear necrotic and curl up.
Some leaves develop a whitish tinge.
Symptoms spread throughout the plant by chronic deficiency.
Over-fertilization
Over-fertilization is a very common phenomenon in cannabis gardens and the #1 bud killer. We see more damage to flowering and yield through overfeeding than through any other gardening error. One of the main reasons is that the recommended dosages on fertilizers are way too high for the normal uptake of plants. Also growers fail to judge what the true plant requirements are during the grow and can be overzealous in wanting to make their plants grow bigger or better. Most people have fallen prey to the marketing of the agrochemical industry and believe that they need a cupboard full of bottles to grow successfully. The problem is enhanced by the low quality of cannabis genetics on the commercial market as many strains are too weak to grow vigorously by themselves and conditioned to respond to artificial feeding.
Generally speaking it is important to provide your Mandala seedlings/clones with good quality soil and a sufficient container size. This basically takes care of most or all of the nutrient requirements throughout the first 4+ weeks of growth. After this period you should start 12/12 and then repot your females into fresh soil. Bigger containers must be provided if you extend the vegetative time (to raise mother plants for example).
Plants with good genetics are also not dependent on being "force fed". They develop a good root system and take care of their own needs, as long as they can find what they are looking for in the substrate. Mandala strains belong to this category since they have hybrid vigour and develop very strong shoots, leaves, and root growth. All Mandala strains can be grown indoor without any fertilizing from start to finish if you provide good soil and the correct container size. Fertilize only if you cannot repot on time into fresh soil, if you notice slight deficiency (usually mild nitrogen deficiency shows up after several weeks growth) and need to top up nutrients, or have run into more visible deficiency problems. Large mother plants may require moderate periodic feedings.
Non-Mandala plants with poor genetics (ie. from too much inbreeding, etc.) will be difficult to handle either way and are finicky: some require higher levels of feeding in hydroponics because they are so inefficient in nutrient uptake; others develop a salt buildup very quickly because they are underdeveloped, weak, and cannot support fast growth.
Check the EC levels of your nutrient solution first and remember that regardless of what is written on the packaging – never feed your plants with more than 0.6-0.8 EC (indoor) to 1.0 EC (outdoor) on soil! This way you will always be on the safe side. For hydroponics consider using lower EC levels (1.0-1.6) and flushing less, instead of heroic dosages that always push the plants to the edge. This is not only more environmentally friendly, healthier, but also means less stress and maintenance problems.
Wait until your plants show slight deficiency symptoms like lack of leaf luster or a slight yellowing of the lowest leaves. There is no point in fertilizing a healthy plant that is lush and green. Why interfere in what nature does best?
When you fertilize give the plants time to assimilate the nutrients and use them for growth. Don't feed them every day or several times a week. Usually it takes 6-8 days for cannabis plants to fully show the effect of the fertilization if they are growing on soil. After this period of time you can make an assessment if they require a bit more or not. Cannabis grows best if it is fertilized in small portions rather than receiving a big dosage all at once.
(Note: all EC levels indicated are from the Hanna Sharp EC meter)
Causes:
Planting young or flowering plants into a soil mix with high levels of nitrogen.
Failing to check the EC level of your nutrient solution in soil cultivation. If you don't check the EC level you have no idea how high the salt concentration is that you are feeding. The EC is also influenced to a large extent by the quality of your tap water. It makes a big difference if you have tap water with an EC of 0.4 or 0.8. Depending on the water you therefore have to adjust the dosage of the fertilizer, so that the nutrient solution does not exceed a certain max. EC level. If the water quality is poor then you should use a household osmosis unit and mix the osmosis water approx. 50/50 with your regular water to reach a low EC starting level.
Using the full recommended dosage of manufacturers instead of a minimal dosage to test plant response, and to see how many nutrients are really required for healthy growth.
Fertilizing too often such as weekly, or even more frequently, which causes a build up of salts in the soil. Also the amount you water influences how many salts the substrate/soil soaks up. Never feed your plants on dry soil.
Starting the feeding cycle too early for young plants, or feeding your plants although they show no signs of lacking any essential nutrients.
Not topping off your hydroponic reservoir with fresh water when required.
Working with high EC levels in hydroponics to force growth/flowering, instead of using low to mid-range EC levels and flushing less.
Using the wrong pH/EC value of your water/nutrient solution which can block the uptake of mineral salts – thereby causing a reverse osmotic effect in the substrate. The high levels of salt pull water out of the root system of your plants. This is why over-fertilization dries up your plants.
Symptoms:
The symptoms are quite diverse and many are often mistaken as a nutrient deficiency! This is due to a lack of gardening experience on the part of the grower, and also due to misguided information in some internet sites where uneducated tips abound.
In many cases over-fertilization is particularly caused by an excess of nitrogen. During the growth and pre-floral phase nitrogen toxicity is quite common. Growers tend to water with a complete fertilizer recommended for this phase and these products all contain a medium to high levels of nitrogen. Nitrogen toxicity begins to show through excessive stem elongation and soft tissue. The plants may appear healthy with lush growth until the negative effects start to set in. In flowering plants it can slow down flowering or even bring it to a standstill. Flowering plants may rejuvenate. Most develop leafy buds and an unusually high amount of secondary shoots (depends on cannabis variety) if nitrogen levels are too high during the pre-flowering. The more advanced stages of excess nitrogen are accompanied by necrosis on many leaves. First the leaf tips burn and dry up. Rusty brown spots appear between the veins and eventually the entire leaf turns brown and falls off.
Bud development is halted and pistils die off suddenly as if they were pollinated.
Leaf edges curl up (similar to when plants have a "heat stroke") due to a disruption in their transpiration which cools down the leaf surface. This symptom is especially pronounced in the upper part of the plant close to the light source.
Leaves discolor and quickly drop off. Some may yellow and wilt beforehand.
Diverse symptoms appear all at once signaling a multi-nutrient blockage - mainly due to excess salts from macro nutrients (nitrogen, phosphate and potassium).
Poor root development and stunted growth.
Plants become susceptible to mold due to a weakened immune system and bloated cell tissue that retains more water (especially with excess of nitrogen). High EC levels are one of the most common causes for Botrytis or grey mold.
Wilting of seedlings, freshly rooted clones, or young plants. Symptoms resemble lack of watering.
High male ratio or appearance of male flowers on female plants.
Bud mold (Botrytis) on flowering plants.
For photos and more details consult our FERTLIZING SMART GUIDE.
Multi-Nutrient Blockage
Cannabis Nutrient BlockageIn this photograph you can see the diverse symptoms of a multi-nutrient blockage. It arises when excess salts in the substrate bind secondary nutrients such as magnesium, iron, zinc, manganese, calcium, manganese and copper. Usually over-fertilizing with potassium and phosphorus, present in high amounts in fertilizers used for blooming such as the potent 13-14 PK products, causes such a nutrient blockage. The leaves develop a checkered appearance of yellow, brown, and white spots with necrotic edges and sometimes also inter-veinal chlorosis (yellowing). Sometimes weak plants or poor genetics are partly to blame.
Symptoms can spread throughout the plant stunting growth and bud development. In such cases the substrate should be flushed thoroughly. Monitor the EC value of the excess water leaching out of the substrate. Continue flushing until it reaches an acceptable level. In soil this is always a difficult situation since you don't want to complicate matters by water-logging the soil. Flowering plants in the advanced stages of bud development may develop mold if they stand too long in soggy soil. If harvest is near you should simply stop fertilizing and live with the results. Young plants can be flushed more easily and you can also plant them in fresh soil and larger pots to let them recuperate naturally.
It is imperative that your plants receive enough water when temperatures rise above normal levels. We are referring to the water supply in the root zone. It's a waste of time to spray your plants with mineral water while the pots are too dry - and it also doesn't help them obtain nutrients. Roots require a moist substrate in order to absorb the mineral ions and supply the plant tissue with vital nutrients. You also don't want to drown the roots in water – just keep the substrate moist, but not soggy or waterlogged. Wait for the top layer to dry before watering. Ensure proper drainage in hydroponic systems.
Do not make the mistake of covering pots with plastic wrap or putting them in a closed propagator for germination because you are paranoid about the soil drying out. The high humidity, coupled with the lack of fresh air, can cause fungus to develop in the soil and the seeds rot before they can germinate. In many cases this may not happen – but the point is that the risk is high. Why should you want to multiply a risk instead of minimizing it?
Successful germination is ensured by placing your pots somewhere in a normal environment away from direct sunlight/excessive heat. Temperatures of 25-30°C are ideal. Propagators mainly serve a purpose for rooting cuttings. If you want to use one for germination you should follow basic guidelines to do it properly. This means that the lid should only partially cover the tray and it should be removed completely for an hour 2x daily. In this manner you can prevent excess humidity of 60% or higher and ensure a sufficient exchange of fresh air. The pots should never be soaked with water or stand in water. This also depletes oxygen in the soil and causes seeds to rot.
As long as the substrate is moist and does not dry out in the root zone Mandala seedlings/young plants can thrive in warm temps and low humidity. There is no need to worry if relative humidity drops to a very low percentage. We regularly grow seedlings under extremely low humidity (as low as 10%) with no negative effects. Leaf burn is caused by lamps hanging too low, soil drying out, and watering or spraying the seedlings/young plants with fertilizers, root boosters, or organic teas.
Regularly spraying young plants with mineral water can also cause damage to the delicate leaves from high levels of minerals in the water such as sodium. Check the contents of the water beforehand or use pure RO (reverse osmosis water). Tap water contains chlorine and other harsh chemicals and minerals that you don't want to spray your plants with. We never spray our plants and instead ensure that they receive enough watering, decent potting soil, and an adequate sized container
Common Mistakes
Many plant care mistakes occur because growers pick up bits and pieces of information here and there but do not really understand how, and if, they fit together in cannabis cultivation.
Cannabis is not an orchid and it's not a cactus. It doesn't like to be periodically drenched in water or grow in excessive humidity (60% +) like an orchid. It also doesn't enjoy growing in a dried-up substrate or in a high mixture of perlite/sand like a cactus.
Below are some of the most frequent mistakes growers make and why these particularly affect the plants in a hot environment.
* High amount of perlite/vermiculite/coarse matter (wood chips, etc.) in soil:
Ready-to-use quality potting soil is already perfectly mixed by the manufacturer for direct use. It has a balanced water-to-air ratio to prevent excessive drying out and to prevent soil getting too compact. Potting soil is based on a mix of various materials such as peat, compost, worm manure, with traces of perlite, coco coir, etc. Adding large amounts of perlite/vermiculite/coco coir (ie. 10% and more) creates a very dry substrate with many non nutritive pockets. This depletes plants of valuable minerals and considerably lowers the water retention capacity of the soil.
Rich soil = nutrients/water retention = fast root & plant growth = health = prolonged resistance
* Bottom or top layer of Hydroton clay pellets or stones in containers:
Not a good idea and based on the false assumption that this is beneficial (for example for drainage/water retention). Hydroton clay pellets have a poor pH that is very alkaline (pH 8+). When you water through these from the top you „corrupt" the pH of the soil and cause minerals to become locked and unavailable for the plants. The result are symptoms of deficiency. Some manufacturers have now started offering clay pellets that are pH neutral. However, they still deplete the soil of potential nutrients, lower water retention capacity, and reduce available space for root development.
Roots grow down due to gravity. The majority of roots in a cannabis plant are to be found in the bottom half of the pot and in particular along the bottom (later, when the plants start to outgrow the pot the roots will fill it to the top). If the roots hit a dry layer of stones/clay pellets with many air pockets they shrivel, dry up, and the plant has less root mass to supply it's top growth. Again, also valuable nutrients and water are lost, because the bottom is not layered with potting soil.
* Overfeeding (too much fertilizer):
One of the biggest mistakes in a hot area is to fertilize excessively. High salt content in the substrate draws water out of the plant through osmosis. The plant suffers from overheating of the cells because it can't transpire to cool down. The result is that plant cells die (necrosis). Leaves wither and drop, leaf and bud growth comes to a halt. Make sure you never feed more than 0.6-0.7 EC on soil indoor or 0.8 EC outdoor. Don't feed more than every 8-10 days with any type of fertilizer. Be especially careful with potent organic fertilizers, like pure guano, that have quickly available nitrogen. Stop feeding the last 3 weeks of flowering and, above all, don't feed at all if your plants are healthy and pumping out buds. Keep EC at 1.0-1.4 in hydroponics for growth and mature plants unless specific conditions (such as CO2 enhancement) require higher levels.
* Underwatering:
Don't let the bottom half of containers dry out completely. Water outdoor plants during the morning so that they have enough water stored when the midday heat strikes. Use water retention crystals in the soil mix for guerilla grows in arid places.
Water = nutrients/moisture = growth = health = prolonged resistance.
* No trays underneath container:
It helps to water occasionally from the bottom as well. Water from top or bottom alternately and not at the same time to prevent over watering. When pots dry out quickly, or too much, the soil develops cracks - especially along the container edges. The water then quickly runs through to the bottom without being properly soaked up by the soil. This cause run-off and leaches nutrients out of the soil if it happens often. Trays catch the run-off and make it available for the plant. They also allow for even spread of moisture in the pots if the soil was very dry.
* Insufficient container size:
Small containers dry out quickly and leave your plants stunted. In hot conditions give your plants more root space and substrate to prevent unnecessary drying out. If you are growing on a balcony or in pots outdoor make sure you have at least 2-6 gallon containers for your flowering plants. Read our SOIL GUIDE for more info on choosing a container size.
Bigger pots=more roots/water/nutrients = better provision = lusher growth = health.
* Clogged drip system:
Above average temperatures quickly lead to clogged drip systems in hydroponics. The nutrient solution in drips evaporates leaving fertilizer salt residues behind that block free passage. Feeding tanks may also develop slimy residues if not cleaned and filled with fresh nutrient solution regularly. This will also clog the system. For some reason drips that are hardest to reach tend to clog the most often! So check your system regularly if all plants are receiving their nutrient solution – especially if you are using rockwool which dries up super-fast.
* Weak ventilation:
Make sure your air intake and output fans have the capacity to keep temps as low as possible in your grow space. The performance indicated on the packaging is always less in real terms. Calculate 2-3 times more performance for your needs. Have a rotating fan on 24 hrs. to move air constantly and prevent stale, hot air pockets in the room.
* Wrong lamp system/light schedule:
Switch to lamps with less heat emission (400W/cool tube instead of 600/1000W). Use a light rail or switch off one lamp during the peak heat wave. Organize your grow so that the veg cycle is before or after the hottest month. Start the light cycle in the evening when outside temp. cools down. Put your ballasts in a separate space – they also emit heat.
* Poor pest control:
A strong pest attack weakens plant defenses and makes them more susceptible to the negative effects of heat. Several pests thrive under warm conditions and if left unchecked turn into a serious problem. In particular spider mites are a common pest during the summer and they withstand high temps and low humidity. Neem oil is a good biological pesticide and plant enhancer that should be sprayed as a precautionary measure and to control pest populations. Sticky traps keep flying pests under control such as adult thrips, white flies, black flies, and aphids. Don't wait until it is too late. Think in terms of prevention and take action to keep your grow space clean.
Some growers have the mistaken assumption that seedlings or clones require very high levels or humidity in the air. However, this is one of many unfortunate myths in cannabis cultivation.
When using a mini-greenhouse the lid must be removed regularly and also it has to allow sufficient exchange of fresh air (ie. leave the greenhouse only partly covered). Otherwise the seedlings or clones are threatened by the fungus Fusarium which attacks the stems, or by Botrytis that can grow on small flowers situated on clones. The greenhouse should not be hermetically sealed. Remove the cover at least 1-2x daily for 1/2 hour. The relative humidity should not exceed 65%. Equally dangerous is the germination of seeds in a mini-greenhouse. Seeds or seedlings can be quickly rot in the substrate under high humidity due to the shortage of oxygen and wet conditions. Mold spores spread rapidly under these circumstances. It is important to remove the lid completely when using a greenhouse for germination or to keep it only half covered.
Nonsensical methods
A variety of silly practices abound that some people have proclaimed will lead to higher yields, more resin, better taste, etc. Meaningful experiments should be differentiated from absurd ideas. Use your common sense and remember that a healthy plant and good genetics is the only guarantee for a great harvest.
With regards to mold these are some of the scenarios that can backfire:
* leaving your ripening crop in the dark for several days
* flushing your potted soil with big amounts of water
* feeding your flowering plants with fish emulsion, guano, and other nitrogen potent fertilizer
* hanging your harvested plants untrimmed & upside down to dry slowly (often in a dimly lit room)
* spraying organic teas, pesticides, bud boosters, etc. on buds
* wrapping harvested shoots in newspaper to dry
* covering top layer of soil with organic residues, guano, mulch, etc.
Beanz
Beansly
RIU Bulldog
Man, the H&G website is down for some reason and I can't get my values. I'm bad at math...
help!
I was supposed to start my first feeding of shooting powder today.
http://host302.hostmonster.com/suspended.page/disabled.cgi/magicalwindow.com
help!
I was supposed to start my first feeding of shooting powder today.
http://host302.hostmonster.com/suspended.page/disabled.cgi/magicalwindow.com
Jozikins
Well-Known Member
Dude, I am half way through that post you wrote and it is very informative. Some things I disagree with, but for the most part they are pretty spot on. It is soo long though it is hard to remember points of debate. But I am absolutely taking all their advise for outdoor and greenhouse, that seems to be more of their style so I think they would be the best to give me advise on it. I think it's funny how they made several references to Jorge Cervantez' information being incorrect without ever quoting him, but then they use one of his quotes to back up a statement they had made.
2.6 g per gallon, and then I think it is 5.6 g starting week 7 or 8, I think it depends if you are doing a 8 week or 9 week feed chart. Half my plants are 8 week bloomers, and the other half are 10, so everything gets 9 weeks. Which will be perfect for my Grape Krush now that I have started 5 new seedlings of it. Rob is a real cool guy, if you ever get a chance to meet him in person at a convention it would be worth your time and effort to get on his good side. Believe me!
Beansly
RIU Bulldog
Thanks man. I was the same way whn I first went to the mandala site. I started thing i would just read the first page, but they were making so many good points I had to keep reading. I ended up on that site for like 3 hours just smoking, reading, and taking notes. The stuff I posted is pretty much the meat of what they say, as I copied and pasted everything of interest from the whole 'grow guides' section.
Funny you say that about Rob. When I caled him he sounded annoyed but then apologized and mentioned he'd been "very busy" the whole week lol. Seems cool though. He was tired I could tell, be he helped me.
Jozikins
Well-Known Member
Haha, well I'm glad you cut him some slack. They drive him like a slave! When I heard the way they work him and his schedule I nearly shit. He is not only their online support, site moderator, and major west coast genius, he is also the vendor at all the shows and the delivery driver for the product. They have him doing the same shit a team of 8-16 would normally do.
cocoxxx
Well-Known Member
been using the coco a+b on one of my plants, the rest are in soil using hesi. by far the healthiest looking is the h&g plant, was thinking of running the bud xl with hammerhead, would i need any aroma enchancers/sweetners or will i get a happy end product just as i am???
Well, what can I say I'm european lol. I've been doing scrogs for a while, done them many different ways too, but these days I just plug when stuff is ready to be plugged. Sometimes I end up with more green under the screen then other times, depending on light penetration. I have full access around my plants and my environment is completley sealed (cge), so mold or fungus is not a real concern for me.
Kind
Amen to that !Whatever works, the lower scruff ensures some better hash making product in the end