AlwaysToken12
Member
I installed a fishtank in my room.. That way the filter and bubbler disguise the humming of my fan.
Quiet. The Neighbors Can Hear You (Sound Control Thread)
- Thread starter one2threeBUDS4
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BigFloppy2020
Member
i hope you dont sleep in that room. must be noisy.
Dorian Gray
Member
Very cool do you know the DB that is putting out .. this is Informative I need to worry a bout sound and light
mastiffkush
Well-Known Member
Thats not true, you do have to have a warrant in order to use the information used by infrared cameras...they might scan with the cameras, but in order to use them legally they have to show a warrant to scan your property specifically. google infrared camera search warrant us, you will find the info there.
mastiffkush
Well-Known Member
one thing i have had recent problems with was an inline fan that shakes or vibrates. this can cause hoses connected to your lights to shake loose or even rip, eventually causing an air leak which will defeat the purpose of having an air cooled system. it can also cause loud vibrations which is the reason i created a housing for the fan;
this is pretty much what it will look like when it is done. the bungees help reduce the sound by 200% so if you can hang it you will be much happier.
first start by measuring the fans height and add an inch or two then cut the wood for the box. if you are using 6" hose then cut a hole on two of the boards that are 7" in diameter, these boards will be the end boards.
next set the fan on one of the boards and mark where the holes are on it, then drill them and mount the fan to the board (do it now, makes it much easier).
once you have done all of above go ahead and connect the hoses.
also you need to cut or drill a "V" in the side of the board where you want the power cord to go through.
after that you can go ahead and put together the last couple sides and you have a brand new silencer box for your inline fan.
Great design, i also found another thread on a different forum that they had used the little foam packing peanuts inside of the box....They also manufacture sound deadening baffles that you can connect to your inline ducting, you know how you can get the sound from the swirl of the high flowing air through vents, its virtually a 2 ft foam filled piece of ducting that you attach to your fan or carbon filter! Keep the thread going, Educate....
mastiffkush
Well-Known Member
No sense in creating any kind of unwanted attention..the best bet honestly is to talk to your neighbors, get cool with them and they are much less likely to complain/intrude on some stranger! "Keep your friends close, enemies closer"
Im not saying tell them, just create a friendship....even if its a brief "whats up"
stelthy
Well-Known Member
I have only just modded my cab to take both and 8" In-Line fan and an 8" RHINO Carbon Filter.. However my exhaust (goes into surrounding room) is still very quiet.. like a standard oscilating room fan.. I took the time to fully insulate the top section of my cab with both Accoustic Sound-mat and Dyna-Mat foil.. I have no vibrations and always have a good nights uninterrupted sleep
...Although I still need to tidy the top section I am happy that I can run my 'Full-Spectrum' grow (730W total) and still have everything running as quietly as when I run just 1x 250W HID - STELTHY 
ok my second post and my first grow. I have a 8in sunleaves windtunnel fan. Its suposed to be a quiet fan already but I live in a condo and share a wall and I like my peace and quiet so I went all out to make this quiet. I got some half inch mdf(this thin stuff sucks, I wanted to have it light weight but its just too thin to screw into, go with the 3/4 mdf) and made a box to fit my fan. I lined the box with half inch styrofoam insulation board that has an r value something around 4ish. I got it at lowes. I hooked up insulated 8" ducting hose to the box and made the hole 9 inches around and it fit perfectly tight. I hung up the box on bungy cords and let me tell you this, it is very quiet! The sound that comes out of the hose is quiet too. Im venting the air out of the fake gas fireplace. The hole is only 5" so I will have to use reducers but my grow room is 8ft high and that should let a lot of hot air go up and stay off the plants. I found this thread very helpfull and enjoy this site very much. I dont really even smoke weed that much but just like to garden and so far this indoors growing is fun. Everything grows fast, so its entertaining. Im growing super lemon haze mostly and I got some free seeds along with the order from the attitude.com. I just need to figure out how to make a door. I have the stick on zipper door but I dont think I will be able to get into the room with the zipper opened up. I think I need some velcrow from left to right on the bottom and the zipper straight up and down. I have a raptor hood that Im going to get a 600 wt hps light for. My room is 5.5 by 4 by 8 high.
roundplanet
Well-Known Member
WOW! Man what a great idea. Once again weed growers should work for NASA. I am not being sarcastic, I am serious.
Doer
Well-Known Member
I've discovered that coolers can be used for a stealthy appeareance and for sound deadening. My grow is apparently just a pile of junk in the corner of the garage.
Also, water is a great sound insulator. In my grow I move much more water than air for cooling.
100 gals of AC cooled water and I find if I suspend the sump pumps in the middle of the water column instead of sitting on the bottom, then I can't hear it. The air pump is the worse, but need it for DWC.
The Whisper brand pumps are very quiet. But, I also have a 110 liter farm grade air pump. That goes in a dry well surrounded by water in the dwc pond, which itself is a big 76 liter cooler. Over that is a 50 gal square garbage bin with 2" foam outside.
The carbon fan exhaust into the wall and up to the attic. It is in a 13 gal plastic
garbage can. That is in a 2" foam wall box. Pretty quiet over all. Can't hear it
outside the garage.
The challenge I'm working on now is the unrecognizable AC unit. I have the cold side
in water and the hot side in another water circulating loop. That goes to a DIY
cooling tower over the hot tub in the back.
Looks like a gazebo with a fan on top. It's a crossflow tower, so the water is pumped to the top and trickles down the "fills" as air is pulled through by a fan.
Got the idea from cooling swimming pools. I'll only need to rig it in the summer.
Love to just un-plug the air fan (loud) but, the fan motor is what charges the start
and run capacitors for the compressor. Grrrrrrr.
And the fan blades are what cools the motor, as well as provide the air interface for the coils that I don't need. Using water.
IAC, I can seperate the fan motor into...
wait for it...a cooler. And that just goes on the junk plie.
Also, water is a great sound insulator. In my grow I move much more water than air for cooling.
100 gals of AC cooled water and I find if I suspend the sump pumps in the middle of the water column instead of sitting on the bottom, then I can't hear it. The air pump is the worse, but need it for DWC.
The Whisper brand pumps are very quiet. But, I also have a 110 liter farm grade air pump. That goes in a dry well surrounded by water in the dwc pond, which itself is a big 76 liter cooler. Over that is a 50 gal square garbage bin with 2" foam outside.
The carbon fan exhaust into the wall and up to the attic. It is in a 13 gal plastic
garbage can. That is in a 2" foam wall box. Pretty quiet over all. Can't hear it
outside the garage.
The challenge I'm working on now is the unrecognizable AC unit. I have the cold side
in water and the hot side in another water circulating loop. That goes to a DIY
cooling tower over the hot tub in the back.
Looks like a gazebo with a fan on top. It's a crossflow tower, so the water is pumped to the top and trickles down the "fills" as air is pulled through by a fan.
Got the idea from cooling swimming pools. I'll only need to rig it in the summer.
Love to just un-plug the air fan (loud) but, the fan motor is what charges the start
and run capacitors for the compressor. Grrrrrrr.
And the fan blades are what cools the motor, as well as provide the air interface for the coils that I don't need. Using water.
IAC, I can seperate the fan motor into...
wait for it...a cooler. And that just goes on the junk plie.
Doer
Well-Known Member
Hmmm....heavy panels. I agree, if you can stiffen across any wide drum like surfaces. Also, heavier
panels can reflect sound to other walls that might not be so soundproofed. Most times I think one would need sound absorption as well as sound barriers.
A case in point is a pair of drywalls and studs. Insulation will make all the difference in sound passage.
For an easy structual panel, I'd suggest MDF with 2" of styrofoam on each side. That way no reflections
from the MDF. So, of couse you are right, but thickness, reflection and drumming need consideration, also.
panels can reflect sound to other walls that might not be so soundproofed. Most times I think one would need sound absorption as well as sound barriers.
A case in point is a pair of drywalls and studs. Insulation will make all the difference in sound passage.
For an easy structual panel, I'd suggest MDF with 2" of styrofoam on each side. That way no reflections
from the MDF. So, of couse you are right, but thickness, reflection and drumming need consideration, also.
Rrog
Well-Known Member
Lemme lend a bit of clarification if I may.
Walls and ceilings, even floors will isolate sound better when loose, not stiff. Like a 24" OC stud wall will perform better than a 16" OC wall. Kinda counter-intuitive, but true.
I agree that all surfaces should be soundproofed (except a cement slab in a basement) if you're serious about soundproofing. However installing foam or otherwise absorptive materials to the surface of a wall won't assist with sound isolation. You can treat your grow room walls just as you would any other room. Paint 'em, whatever.
Insulation isn't a bad thing, but not a big deal, either. Another counter-intuitive thing, maybe. You would get a much bigger bang for your buck by adding a second layer of drywall instead. If you'd like to insulate the inside of your walls or ceiling, then plain old fiberglass is great. Don't compact it. Leave it fluffy.
When it comes to heavy walls or ceilings, it's hard to beat plain old cheap drywall. 5/8" thick for $7 or $8 a sheet. Easy to cut, install and seal. Really cheap mass, and that's what you're after.
The two biggest routes for sound to escape the room is through the door and the ventilation. These will in all likelihood be your weakest links, and no sense overbuilding elsewhere if you're not prepared to address building mufflers for the vents (supplies and returns) and beefing up the door and it's seals.
Walls and ceilings, even floors will isolate sound better when loose, not stiff. Like a 24" OC stud wall will perform better than a 16" OC wall. Kinda counter-intuitive, but true.
I agree that all surfaces should be soundproofed (except a cement slab in a basement) if you're serious about soundproofing. However installing foam or otherwise absorptive materials to the surface of a wall won't assist with sound isolation. You can treat your grow room walls just as you would any other room. Paint 'em, whatever.
Insulation isn't a bad thing, but not a big deal, either. Another counter-intuitive thing, maybe. You would get a much bigger bang for your buck by adding a second layer of drywall instead. If you'd like to insulate the inside of your walls or ceiling, then plain old fiberglass is great. Don't compact it. Leave it fluffy.
When it comes to heavy walls or ceilings, it's hard to beat plain old cheap drywall. 5/8" thick for $7 or $8 a sheet. Easy to cut, install and seal. Really cheap mass, and that's what you're after.
The two biggest routes for sound to escape the room is through the door and the ventilation. These will in all likelihood be your weakest links, and no sense overbuilding elsewhere if you're not prepared to address building mufflers for the vents (supplies and returns) and beefing up the door and it's seals.
amitgoheritage
Member
thanks for nice information.