UnderCurrentDWC
Active Member
What was the reason for leaving the ZHO out now? redundant?
DWC Root Slime Cure aka How to Breed Beneficial Microbes
- Thread starter Heisenberg
- Start date
mr.bond
Well-Known Member
You should only need a little for 2gal, because the bit you put in there will breed into massive amounts. Probably no more than one or two scoops... Add molasses and brew for 48hours and you're set. This should work well with your UC.
cheers,
mr.bond
mr.bond
Well-Known Member
The ZHO contains trichoderma, a powerful beneficial fungi. The Mycogrow Soluble also contains trichoderma, along with additional types of beneficial fungi, bacteria, and endo/ectomycorrhizae. The Mycogrow Soluble is a more complete product out of the box for us, and works great for prevention/maintenance. However, adding the Ancient Forest into the mix gives it a vast diversity that is key to disease fighting. You go from dozens of types of beneficials to tens of thousands. Amazing stuff.
cheers,
mr.bond
Thanks Heizenberg and all.Any chance somebody could post a link to the updated recipie with the mycogrow and EWC only? I've scanned dozens of pages bug can't find where the suggestions were updated. I'd be dealing with a 5gal batch.
The basic gist I'm assuming is to still mix the EWC and MYCO in an air pump with (or without) a sock/filter of some kind for 24-48 hours.... just need the relative amounts. or does it not really matter?
The basic gist I'm assuming is to still mix the EWC and MYCO in an air pump with (or without) a sock/filter of some kind for 24-48 hours.... just need the relative amounts. or does it not really matter?
legallyflying
Well-Known Member
hey farkface (that is a funny ass name BTW), I think I ran into a little trouble just sort of throwing amounts in there. Not so much the myco's and worm castings, but adding too much molasses may lead to problems... because its essentially crack for all microorganisms, both good and bad.
If I recall correctly, two scoops of myco, two hand fulls of castings, and a tablespoon of molasses was what my amounts were for a 5 gallon mix. I also added one ML of cold pressed kelp but that is not necessary.
If I recall correctly, two scoops of myco, two hand fulls of castings, and a tablespoon of molasses was what my amounts were for a 5 gallon mix. I also added one ML of cold pressed kelp but that is not necessary.
UnderCurrentDWC
Active Member
I think this is the ancient forest and soluble mycogrow talked about, is this right?
I found the mycogrow is $7.75 for 1 pound and the ancient forest is $11.90 for .5 cubic feet. Is this about what I should pay for these products? if not does anyone have a link to a good online store for these items?
Thx
UCDWC~
General Organics Ancient Forest is a natural soil amendment consisting of 100% pure forest humus. Derived from thousands of years of naturally decomposed forest litter, it contains a wide spectrum of organic compounds. Its high diversity of microorganisms, including more than 35,000 species of bacteria and over 5,000 species of fungi, make Ancient Forest an ideal amendment for gardening and potting soils. This amendment also aids in the retention of water and nutrients, creating stable, long lasting soil for your garden. Ancient Forest’s immense biological activity also makes it the ideal inoculum for actively aerated compost teas.
Eight species of endo- and ecto-mycorrhizae spores in high concentration colonize plants roots to synergistically increase the plant root system potential up to ten-fold. Mycorrhizae mycelium actually form root extensions greatly increasing the plant’s ability to acquire moisture and nutrients. Inoculated plants enjoy improved disease resistance and superior field performance. Myco-Grow is recommended for field grown or container plants in native soil or soil mixes that include native soil. This mycorrhizae product is designed for adaptation to a wide variety of plants and conditions. Specific contents include: 3 species Endo at density of 6 spores per cubic centimeter, 5 species Ecto at density of 21,150 spores per cubic centimeter, and 1% humic acid by weight. Endo species: Glomus intraradices, Glomus aggregatum, Glomus mosseae. Ecto species: Suillus granulatus, Pisolithus tinctorius, Rhizopogon rubescens, Scleroderma cepa, Scleroderma citrine.
I found the mycogrow is $7.75 for 1 pound and the ancient forest is $11.90 for .5 cubic feet. Is this about what I should pay for these products? if not does anyone have a link to a good online store for these items?
Thx
UCDWC~
General Organics Ancient Forest is a natural soil amendment consisting of 100% pure forest humus. Derived from thousands of years of naturally decomposed forest litter, it contains a wide spectrum of organic compounds. Its high diversity of microorganisms, including more than 35,000 species of bacteria and over 5,000 species of fungi, make Ancient Forest an ideal amendment for gardening and potting soils. This amendment also aids in the retention of water and nutrients, creating stable, long lasting soil for your garden. Ancient Forest’s immense biological activity also makes it the ideal inoculum for actively aerated compost teas.
Eight species of endo- and ecto-mycorrhizae spores in high concentration colonize plants roots to synergistically increase the plant root system potential up to ten-fold. Mycorrhizae mycelium actually form root extensions greatly increasing the plant’s ability to acquire moisture and nutrients. Inoculated plants enjoy improved disease resistance and superior field performance. Myco-Grow is recommended for field grown or container plants in native soil or soil mixes that include native soil. This mycorrhizae product is designed for adaptation to a wide variety of plants and conditions. Specific contents include: 3 species Endo at density of 6 spores per cubic centimeter, 5 species Ecto at density of 21,150 spores per cubic centimeter, and 1% humic acid by weight. Endo species: Glomus intraradices, Glomus aggregatum, Glomus mosseae. Ecto species: Suillus granulatus, Pisolithus tinctorius, Rhizopogon rubescens, Scleroderma cepa, Scleroderma citrine.
legallyflying
Well-Known Member
because some hydro companies rip you off more than others. I have a bag of mycorhizal fungi that I bought from the lab that manufactures them for other companies. Its a big bag..like a quart sandwhich bag, it was $5.
Heisenberg
Well-Known Member
I use two small scoops of mycogrow per gallon. For our purposes, the exact amounts are not so important, we only need an approximation.
Yep, adding too much molasses will cause an explosion of micro-life that will quickly outstrip the oxygen in the water faster than it can be replaced. Since the water is now essentially aerobic, bad stuff can move in and eat the molasses and dead bodies, or else the molasses simply dilutes into the water and doesn't get broken down, until it goes into the res and the slime eats it. The kelp isn't necessarily a bad thing, it gives some types of fungi a place to grow, but you probably needed to give it more time than 48 hours for it to be broken down.
It looks like that mix only contains mycos. Where as mycogrow soluble contains those and an entire army of others.
The plants are 2 weeks old now. There is no slime in the buckets because we ran a fish net through pretty much all of them. However there is still slime residue on the bottom of all the net pots. We have got a tea brewing in a 5 gallon bucket composed of SubCulture-B and Mykos. Just wondering if I were to pour a good amount of stuff in there into the hydroton if it would get rid of that slime completely, or if it would harm them. Maybe that slime isnt even enough to do harm? I don't know, thats why I'm asking you guys.
Another thing, after 2 weeks of vegging, do you guys think these plants should be a bit bigger? Thanks.
EDIT: Ok tell me what you guys think of this. To rid the net pots and hydroton of all the slime completely (since there is damn near none in the buckets), we figure we are going to take out the clones replace the hydroton and completely clean out the net pots as good as we can. My friend who is an expert grower came over and I explained to him everything we had done and he said the only other conclusion he could come to is that our pump (750GPH) isnt good enough for a 117 gallon res, and that we should get at LEAST a 1500GPH pump because that slime is most likely due to sitting water. Let me know if any of these sound right to you guys. Thanks.
hey heis,
you seem to have lots of knowledge on the matter of battling this awful slime in dwc. i was wondering why nobody has tried or suggested any natural fungicides. i use sm90 which is coriander & canola oils. many use or recommend sm90 in the res but forget its also a great foliar spray for pest & molds or whatever. we all use neem as an organic pesticide & as a fungicide but primarily as a foliar spray. what about using neem in the res? there are plenty of products like organocide which is sesame & fish oils. another great example is sns 244 fungicide made of 100% thyme extract. makes me think why not. your opionion on the matter is appreciated
you seem to have lots of knowledge on the matter of battling this awful slime in dwc. i was wondering why nobody has tried or suggested any natural fungicides. i use sm90 which is coriander & canola oils. many use or recommend sm90 in the res but forget its also a great foliar spray for pest & molds or whatever. we all use neem as an organic pesticide & as a fungicide but primarily as a foliar spray. what about using neem in the res? there are plenty of products like organocide which is sesame & fish oils. another great example is sns 244 fungicide made of 100% thyme extract. makes me think why not. your opionion on the matter is appreciated
Heisenberg
Well-Known Member
If your water has insufficient DO levels then bennies wont live, but slime will still thrive. I have no idea if your water is indeed stagnant, but as I said in my very first post, adding more oxygen is the first thing most people try, and they end up just wasting time.
To rid your hydroton and pots of disease, simply pour some tea all through them. Your plant should definitely be bigger at two weeks after root.
Chemical and natural fungicide products were the first thing people tried, and most often they fail. A few do seem to be effective in some cases, such as hydro-sparkle which I think is only available in AU. Thyme extract would seem to be a good choice and I do not know if anyone has tried that product. Technically the tea itself is a natural fungicide as it contains trichoderma, but the term is being used in a slightly different context, as trichoderma is a fungus.
legallyflying
Well-Known Member
Hey Ramen.. you took off the little piece of panda, mylar, or other light tight fabric that goes on top of the net pot to keep any light from reaching the wet hydroton just so you could take the picture....... right?
in my experience, hydroton is NOT light tight.
mr.bond
Well-Known Member
hey ramen,
the slime still left behind on your netpots might be the 'after-slime' left behind. its basically a benign/dead slime. it wont go away for the rest of the grow but it shouldnt have any problems as long as you maintain proper res conditions and fully inoculate with the tea, by pouring it over all of the hydroton. as heisenberg said, lots of people try adding more O2. 1-watt per gallon is a good way to judge air pump sizing. legallyflying also mentioned that hydroton is not light tight... he is right, it can bounce some light down those couple inches and give the rez a constant supply of faint light.
your plant looks a bit small for undergoing a 2 week veg, but its likely due to its growth being stunted from the slime. keep that light out, brew your tea and inoculate, then continue with maintenance doses. your plants should be pretty big in 2 weeks if you give them enough light and keep them stress free.
cheers mate,
mr.bond
I dont quite understand what 1w per gallon means? We have a 117 gal res, 8000w of light, and a water pump that does 750 GPH(over 8 buckets). I noticed that the water doesnt really move when you take the air stones out there is very little movement in the water, if not none. Me and my buds are thinking about getting a 3k-4k GPH pump to help the water circulation.
As far as pouring the "tea" that we brewed into the hydroton, the tea we have is not the tea that is talked about in the first post. We have Mykos and Subculture-B brewing in a 5 gallon bucket with an air stone thats been sitting in it for a little more than a day now. We are going to pour it in probably in a few hours and I'll update you guys on how that works out. If that doesnt work we are definently buying a pump because my buddy told me it HAS to be the pump. Tell me what you think about this. Thanks.
tyler.durden
Well-Known Member
Hey, Heis. Okay, well I vegged a bunch of plants I started from feminized seeds, and I'm keeping the biggest strongest ones for mothers: White Widow, Trainwreck, OG Kush, NY-47 and a Blue Widow. I am about to take cuttings, and I'm going to use your cloning method with the bubble cloner you devised. I have about 3 weeks to go to go in the flower room before I harvest my current batch (Vanilla kush and Strawberry Diesel), and I am not sure if I am going to keep using my 10 gallon totes, or if I'm switching to 5 gallon buckets, so my question is this: using your cloning method (just brewed a fresh batch of tea), can I use only rockwool cubes with no net pot or hydroton and still get my clones to root successfully? This is my first attempt and cloning, so any advise you can give me will be greatly appreciated 
Thanks!
P.S. Jessie kicked your ass Sunday night, what's up with that?
Thanks!P.S. Jessie kicked your ass Sunday night, what's up with that?
tyler.durden
Well-Known Member
Hi, Ramen! 1 watt per gallon means that your air pump should be at least one watt per gallon of water your attempting to aerate (100 gallons of water should have an air pump with at least 100 watts of power). I'm using a 950 gph pump which is 35 watts for 36 gallons of water, and my plants are doing well...
legallyflying
Well-Known Member
I'm actually putting quite a bit more air into my system. I can't remember the watts but I have two commercial pumps putting out 110L/Min (1650 gallons/hour) for a total of 3300 gallons/hour. These are bubbling in 12 4 gallon buckets that have around 3 gallons of water in them. Basically every hour I am pushing 91 gallons of air through one gallon of water as opposed to tylerdurden's 26 per gallon/per hour.
Hmmm. maybe I need to look at things as I am putting 400% more air through the system? I will say that my roots are fucking exploding though...like mega. They are in week 3 of veg and about half the bucket is full of roots. 1/2 to a 1/3 anyways.
Hmmm. maybe I need to look at things as I am putting 400% more air through the system? I will say that my roots are fucking exploding though...like mega. They are in week 3 of veg and about half the bucket is full of roots. 1/2 to a 1/3 anyways.
tyler.durden
Well-Known Member
Hey, LF. Heis said it's hard to have too much air, unless the roots are churning about like crazy. If your ladies and their roots are looking good, you're probably doing great but I'm sure Heis will chime in to confirm. Back when I was having root problems, I wasn't even using a 1/2 watt per gallon, and I'm sure that was part of the problem...