brotherjericho
Well-Known Member
30 day return policy? Flowering by itself takes much longer than that...
Inda-gro Induction...
- Thread starter Buck123
- Start date
Splifferous
New Member
granted, and valid point, but i had my mind made up after 2 weeks... if after 25 days with this lamp, if you still havent got an opinion, you either havent fired it up yet, or you arent paying any attention to your plants.
you could always nest that 30 days within a running bloom...
my point was that it's there; not that you would actually be compelled to use it.
you could always nest that 30 days within a running bloom...
my point was that it's there; not that you would actually be compelled to use it.
chazbolin
Well-Known Member
Since they don't run hot I space the 420's from weeks 6-9 @ 18"-24" from the canopy.
I finish @ 12-18".
chazbolin
Well-Known Member
Unless you know something I don't; the return policy on the Pro Grow 180 LED grow light (veg-flower) you recently purchased is only 30 days from the date of purchase. Were you able to get them to give you a longer return option somehow if you didn't like it?
http://www.hydroponicshut.com/pro-grow-180-watt-led-grow-light-hydroponics-hut.html
For a first time user I'd also like to see a 90 day 'no questions asked' return policy too but that's not a return policy I've seen anywhere else have you? Not likely any hydro shop would get behind a 90 day 'no questions asked' return policy either. For those that even offer a no questions asked return policy, I'd say 30 days is fair and the 10 year warranty is second to none.
brotherjericho
Well-Known Member
Have you tried closer? I bet you could get 4" from mature plants, but that is purely speculation.
Splifferous
New Member
ya, that's clearly speculation. what would you base that bet on? you haven't seen one of these lamps running first hand, probably haven't even touched one... of course you can present a valid opinion on drop height. as far as i can see you haven't contributed anything but speculation or borderline ignorant skepticism to this thread for as long as i've been involved with it.
how about let the ones in this thread that have these lamps, and are familiar with them from first hand experience speak on the details of using them? mine is on a mover, as you all know, and it is about 12-15 inches above the canopy. I did have it closer, but as far as i know, the 420s have a preferred focal height of around 24 inches. with all the PAR output from these, i would personally expect a 4" drop to lead to photoinhibition and stunted plants. but then people like you would look at that, with zero understanding of botany, and try to put the blame on the lamp, when all it would be doing, is being too efficient.
brotherjericho
Well-Known Member
I just offered a suggestion based on my experience with similar technology, PLLs. I never said my way was the best way, just an idea to try. And I admitted it was speculation.
So fuck off. You are at this point advertising the lights. I see it. 35 posts, almost all about Inda-Gro. I say they are shit. Over-price, hyped up shit. Prove me wrong.
chazbolin
Well-Known Member
BJ; @ 12" spacing at late flower I've reached my daily uMole saturation within 10 hours @ the canopy but its also true I've cut the effective foot print down to 1 x 1.5m at that spacing. The second light and canopy penetration makes all the difference on late stage lower branch development. Spliffs idea on the light mover should work nicely for wider coverage on the 12/12 cycle. I personally think just moving them on a 3-5 ft rail would be a perfect compliment to the outer edges. But you have to let the light sit on the edges a bit longer so that there is a long enough photoperiod on the edges as the light crosses the center in both directions so the middle would get 2X as much light unless you have accurately established the end rail lag to compensate for that. I use a quantum meter and look for saturation @ 18 moles/day.
Spliff; if you're going to get the light rail running I think you're on the right track here. If you don't have a quantum meter tell me what kelvin value your light meter is rated at and I can assist you with the flowering intensity in footcandles so you can adjust spacing. If you don't have a light meter of any type then move the canopy to that 12-18" and you'll see the pop from week 9 to finish.
peace
Spliff; if you're going to get the light rail running I think you're on the right track here. If you don't have a quantum meter tell me what kelvin value your light meter is rated at and I can assist you with the flowering intensity in footcandles so you can adjust spacing. If you don't have a light meter of any type then move the canopy to that 12-18" and you'll see the pop from week 9 to finish.
peace
chazbolin
Well-Known Member
Now now BJ that's no way to treat a new member to the forums. Perhaps he's not as skilled a grower as you and lacks the objectivity and analytical reasoning that you so clearly possess. It may be that he also lacks your elocution and literary prowess in his responses to your finely crafted posts. But chill out. No one is trying to prove anything to you. I would however be interested in seeing that PG180 LED setup of yours for your flowering. Would you be so kind as to point us in the direction of that thread?
Namaste
Splifferous
New Member
ya 35 posts on this site... so many other sites out there... what i'm doing here is posting photographic evidence of the results of these lights, not posting nothing but baseless opinion like you. i've checked out a lot of your activity on these forums, you hardly have anything worth reading, yet you still type....
i have nothing to prove, least of all to someone like you. these lights speak for themselves. i have posted pics and vids that you have gotten to see, all i have seen from you is your shitty attitude and overabundance of uneducated opinion. 191 post for you, and nothing worthwhile?
Splifferous
New Member
fresh pics, just took them. lights on for 5 hours on day 42.
the PDP - EFDL only since clone
the Obama - EFDL in veg; 600w HPS for 1st month of bloom, past 2 weeks under the 420PAR
the GDP - EFDL in veg; 600w HPS for 1st month of bloom, past 2 weeks under the 420PAR
using the GDP and obama as slight indicators of what the change in spectrum does (genetics and maturation also weigh in heavily) i believe that the 420PAR with the 3% UVB greatly increases trichome development. again, this started out as a vs grow, but the HPS, imo, was costing me in terms of quality and weight, so i had to make "seating adjustments" to allow for the smaller plants that were previously HPS-only to be served by the 420PAR. i'm pleased with the results of that decision so far. i still have the White Fire going under the HPS, but she's not as impressive imo:
in the macro shot of the White Fire above, I had to crop out the top of the cola, as the pistils were casting an intense flare in the camera. compared to the clarity and lack of such issues when taking pictures under the 420PAR, i'm pretty sure that indicates that quality of spectrum, and not just intensity alone, makes the difference here.
the PDP - EFDL only since clone
the Obama - EFDL in veg; 600w HPS for 1st month of bloom, past 2 weeks under the 420PAR
the GDP - EFDL in veg; 600w HPS for 1st month of bloom, past 2 weeks under the 420PAR
using the GDP and obama as slight indicators of what the change in spectrum does (genetics and maturation also weigh in heavily) i believe that the 420PAR with the 3% UVB greatly increases trichome development. again, this started out as a vs grow, but the HPS, imo, was costing me in terms of quality and weight, so i had to make "seating adjustments" to allow for the smaller plants that were previously HPS-only to be served by the 420PAR. i'm pleased with the results of that decision so far. i still have the White Fire going under the HPS, but she's not as impressive imo:
in the macro shot of the White Fire above, I had to crop out the top of the cola, as the pistils were casting an intense flare in the camera. compared to the clarity and lack of such issues when taking pictures under the 420PAR, i'm pretty sure that indicates that quality of spectrum, and not just intensity alone, makes the difference here.
Splifferous
New Member
thanks bro! i just wish i knew what i was doing... lol
apparently i'm some sort of a scrub
