LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
no....it hooks up under the stink without disturbing your regular pumping while giving you an output for your RO/water filtration systems!
oh man - that is sweet! just what you needed.no....it hooks up under the stink without disturbing your regular pumping while giving you an output for your RO/water filtration systems!
if you plan on having the filter constantly on and attached to a sink that gets used - then i completely agree - you absolutely don't want to have to unhook the filter every time you want to wash your hands.yea. the saddle valve does the same shit! but that pressure will spit out that tube.... im not a fan of the compression. i call bullshit!
but those John Guest quick connect fittings fucking rock! the colar will make sure no leaks will show its face!!!! plus all you do is push in the tube and waaahlaaaa!!!!
i know i could of had it working if i was to stop being so difficult, but i be damn if i have to unhook my adapter from the faucet just so somebody can wash their hands....fuck that.
yes - just make sure to keep you pH probe out of the RO water!and another question. as far as the RO....
a tds/ppm reading will let me know when i need to change my filters correct?
im thinking about getting one of those inline tds meters...i seen a sweet one for 20 bucks
huh? why?yes - just make sure to keep you pH probe out of the RO water!
The simple version and my understanding is - RO water renders the pH probe useless over time. The RO water does this through absorbing the ions from the pH probe since the RO water has none. After the pH probe loses its ions, it is useless as a probe. Checking pH AFTER you add nutrients is not a problem because the nutrient solution either contains ions or causes the RO water to not absorb ions - to be honest - i'm not sure which but either way - it is safe to test pH of RO water only after adding nutrients. Which is just as well - if you've ever attempted to check pH of RO water you'll see your meter fluctuating pretty wildly and it is difficult to get a solid reading anyway.huh? why?
A pH probe is basically a sensitive voltmeter,
and converts the reading in mV that it gets,
into a digital number representing the pH.
A solution of neutral pH should have a mV reading of 0.0.
Two chemical solutions can have the same pH,
with one solution having a higher ionic value.
pH calibration solutions are made with High Ionic chemicals.
High Ionic solutions will cause the meter to react faster,
than low ionic solutions.
RO has little or no ions.
Two potentials are needed to make a pH measurement:
1. The sensing electrode provides a potential
proportional to the logarithm of the
hydrogen ion activity,
in your nutrient solution.
2. The electrode reference solution inside the probe,
ideally provides a stable and consistent ionic potential,
independent of your nutrient solution.
Comparing the ions in these two solutions
gives an electrical potential
we can read on the meter.
Since the RO has no ions,
ion transfer occurs
from the electrode reference solution in the probe,
to the RO.
Once the ions are reduced in the electrode reference solution,
or depleted from the electrode reference solution,
the probe becomes slow to calibrate, or totally disabled.
Ph adjusting RO has the same ionic problem.
Excellent! I love when two separate sources agreemy girl's mom works at a water treatment plant or something. i talked to her last night about this topic and she said...it varies....although in order for a ph to be picked up it (the sample) has to have hydrogen ions or some shit. she said they ph check the RO water all the time, but im pretty sure they have special dedicated ph meters. She said...it wont immediately fuck it up.....but she said over time, it MIGHT.
i love using my resources!!!
The simple version and my understanding is - RO water renders the pH probe useless over time. The RO water does this through absorbing the ions from the pH probe since the RO water has none. After the pH probe loses its ions, it is useless as a probe. Checking pH AFTER you add nutrients is not a problem because the nutrient solution either contains ions or causes the RO water to not absorb ions - to be honest - i'm not sure which but either way - it is safe to test pH of RO water only after adding nutrients. Which is just as well - if you've ever attempted to check pH of RO water you'll see your meter fluctuating pretty wildly and it is difficult to get a solid reading anyway.
Here is the detailed explanation from the mighty (and mighty helpful) Earl:
did the same shit last time - different reason though!Hate to hear it for ya brah.. I know the next cycle will be uber dank since you learned from this one.
Cycles brotha, cycles!
E
First thing to admit, "I don't know shit."did the same shit last time - different reason though!
Dude i'm sorry to hear thats a shame Id kill me !!! Anyway i hope all works out n those bitches kick back into action to give ya whatca need!!alright - last i peaked at them (the plants) they still look severely heat burned - not sure if they're going to recover - though all is not lost - they're still some healthy looking buds left (i hope) - i'll try to update the details and add pix later tonight.
thanks - but its my own dumb fault for not being more aware of the warning signs. i'm really not sweating it - the PPP looks (well looked) great and there are still some large very salvageable buds.Dude i'm sorry to hear thats a shame Id kill me !!! Anyway i hope all works out n those bitches kick back into action to give ya whatca need!!