new set up HELP
- Thread starter itsAmre
- Start date
fir3dragon
Well-Known Member
that is 86 degrees f which is hot. u need a cooltube
MrMeanGreen
Active Member
Leave the hps about 2ft away and measure temp at the top of your plant. Keep ya fan on, if 80+, raise light and repeat until temp is down. Ya really want a 400w (min) + cool tube for flowering, get a dual spectrum hps and ya can use it for vegging.
MrMeanGreen
Active Member
It's not ideal but it's not exactly hot.
fir3dragon
Well-Known Member
a cooltube would work to get them down though
I've grown both those strains and may be able to help.
The blueberry auto is a good place to start, but your tub, er pot, is way too big for an auto.
When seedlings first go into dirt they spend all their energy sending out the roots to support
the plant. Until the roots find the inside walls of the pot there will be little or no growth above
ground. That's why your month-old seedling looks like a 10-day old seedling. It's building up
a rootball large enough to support the World Trade Center. Seriously, unless you plan on spending Xmas
harvesting, I would transplant her into something in the 1-2 gallon range. After being TP'd your auto's
roots will soon find the pot walls and be off and running.
You did your timing perfect. Anytime you are growing autos with non-autos you need to start the autos way before.
Reason is that autos need the light set at 20/4, 20 hours of light a day, for the entire grow. Autos do not veg, they go
straight from seedling to flowering. So they do best when the light stays constant. If your autos have a 4-5 week
headstart they will be about half done when the Critical+ goes into dirt. You want to veg the C+ at the same light schedule, 20/4.
Just when your auto finishes it will be time to switch your schedule to12/12. The C+ needs 20/4 to veg, then 12/12 to flower.
By staggering your times you made your life a lot easier.
Good luck, BigSteve.
PS -- If I remember correctly the Critical+ took longer to finish than predicted. So not to worry if that one seems to drag on.
The blueberry auto is a good place to start, but your tub, er pot, is way too big for an auto.
When seedlings first go into dirt they spend all their energy sending out the roots to support
the plant. Until the roots find the inside walls of the pot there will be little or no growth above
ground. That's why your month-old seedling looks like a 10-day old seedling. It's building up
a rootball large enough to support the World Trade Center. Seriously, unless you plan on spending Xmas
harvesting, I would transplant her into something in the 1-2 gallon range. After being TP'd your auto's
roots will soon find the pot walls and be off and running.
You did your timing perfect. Anytime you are growing autos with non-autos you need to start the autos way before.
Reason is that autos need the light set at 20/4, 20 hours of light a day, for the entire grow. Autos do not veg, they go
straight from seedling to flowering. So they do best when the light stays constant. If your autos have a 4-5 week
headstart they will be about half done when the Critical+ goes into dirt. You want to veg the C+ at the same light schedule, 20/4.
Just when your auto finishes it will be time to switch your schedule to12/12. The C+ needs 20/4 to veg, then 12/12 to flower.
By staggering your times you made your life a lot easier.
Good luck, BigSteve.
PS -- If I remember correctly the Critical+ took longer to finish than predicted. So not to worry if that one seems to drag on.
