LED Companies w/ LINKS

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Really? the 9-5x was built by GM so that makes sense. Your 2004 2.3l ( the 5 cylinder lol) runs like a top?? consider yourself lucky:P who the hell owns Saab now anyways.......
Saabs were still made in Sweden. GM kept interfering, pushing Saab to implement GMs ideas, but SAAB ignored them. The last new 9-5 was/is GMs overall size design to accommodate the fat ass 'merican market

Saabs are 4 cylinder and much later 2006 a V6. I owned a V6 Sports Combi Wagon. It was front end heavy + exhaust note was too loud for me

Smart people bought Saabs, awesome cars, although a bit pricey compared to 'merican crap
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
Saabs were still made in Sweden. GM kept interfering, pushing Saab to implement GMs ideas, but SAAB ignored them. The last new 9-5 was/is GMs overall size design to accommodate the fat ass 'merican market

Saabs are 4 cylinder and much later 2006 a V6. I owned a V6 Sports Combi Wagon. It was front end heavy + exhaust note was too loud for me

Smart people bought Saabs, awesome cars, although a bit pricey compared to 'merican crap
Well you seem to really love your Saabs, I just knew some owners that hated them due to unreliability; Probably Tainted my outlook on them........Ah yes the Volvo's were the Five cylinder turbo's I think:P got then mixed up..............apologies Pet
 

ka1234

Member
Hi all. Long time listener, first time caller.


I've been reading and re-reading this post for a while now and keep coming back to the same couple of questions in my head. I'm sure it's a simple "duh" answer, but humor me if you would.

If it only takes 10W of deep red to match 100W of outdoor white, what is the advantage of having to push 10x as much power just to achieve the same level? What am I missing here?

If the warm white has such a superior red/upper spectrum advantage over the outdoor white, why would you opt for the outdoor white instead of the warm white?

Why XP-G instead of XE-T?



If white bulbs are where it's at instead of the traditional red/blue combo, how come no one has done it until now?



Not making sense..




Generally, warm white lets through about 10% of the blue, natural/soft/outdoor white lets though about 20% and cool white lets through 25-30%.

That can all change from one name brand to the next, but it is an average.

If it makes up 17% in diodes used, that really does not mean anything other than 17% of the diodes.

Here is a chart I made using Excel and data from 100w Cree XPG warm white, 6w of Cree XPE royal blue, and 10w Philips Rebel deep red.



As you can see, it only takes 6w of blue to make a similar amounts that the whites do.

And here's one more chart showing 100w of Cree XPG cool white and 15w of Cree XPE royal blue.



As for the 660nm, I think some plants can use it more than others, and levels of varies as well.

I think it depends on the genetics of the plant(s) grown, and where those genetics are from in the world.

I am a firm believer that plants like a full spectrum, after all they've been growing and evolving under a full spectrum for millions of years.

That is why some panels that have too much 660nm (mine are less than 25% deep red in the 2012 models) will be hit and miss from strain to strain.

My newest panels will have mostly Cree XPG Outdoor White, and a small boost from Cree XPE 630nm. I could have chosen to put deep red, but I do not believe they are necessary at this point with that much white. For plants that like deep red, they can get their 660nm fix from the whites.
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
^^ I'm down with EHs post.

In my current thread, I vegged under NW + WW. I only added a ufo 90 R/B cause it was time to give the 2 plants more light, and since I owned it, well...

But from what I document to a point in my thread, the combination of NW +WW will do a damn fine job start to finish for most strains
. Plus, 120-150w is all you need to illuminate a 2 X 4 tent, and possibly 4 X 4. I have ~ 120w in a 2 X 4. Plants are 2 mo, both were basketball size before I trimmed the lower branches.

Link in signature
 

ka1234

Member
Sure, don't get me wrong.. I'm in awe of the real world testing going on here. If you guys are killing it with the whites, then that's proof enough.

What about the XPG vs XTE?
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
No I'm afraid I do not have such "communicating "programs ...
I'll think a way ...
(My laptop due to it's X-25 SSD has limited available space ...
And I've no more room for any kind of apply I use rarely or never (like Skype ,hotmail,ect )
CS4 ,Figi ,OpenCaD ,sKETCHuP and plenty more .."scientific-oriented " software ,does not allow for skype in the 80 GB hard disc ...
(80 GB ,but faster than a bullet .... )
I have the same issue old laptops that run fast because I avoid bloatware. Check out IMO.IM it is a web browser that lets you sign in to skype. runs fast on my old sony.
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
^^ I'm down with EHs post.

In my current thread, I vegged under NW + WW. I only added a ufo 90 R/B cause it was time to give the 2 plants more light, and since I owned it, well...

But from what I document to a point in my thread, the combination of NW +WW will do a damn fine job start to finish for most strains
. Plus, 120-150w is all you need to illuminate a 2 X 4 tent, and possibly 4 X 4. I have ~ 120w in a 2 X 4. Plants are 2 mo, both were basketball size before I trimmed the lower branches.

Link in signature
Hey Pet did you see Cree's new screw in led light bulbs????? available at Home depot http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Navigation?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&N=5yc1vZbol#/?c=1&bol=bol Pricing is not bad at all if you buy the six pack! anyways figured it was useful for your growing style and you get join the Cree team :twisted: not to mention it pisses Franjan off ===== win win
 

mamakush

Active Member
Hi all. Long time listener, first time caller.


I've been reading and re-reading this post for a while now and keep coming back to the same couple of questions in my head. I'm sure it's a simple "duh" answer, but humor me if you would.

If it only takes 10W of deep red to match 100W of outdoor white, what is the advantage of having to push 10x as much power just to achieve the same level? What am I missing here?

If the warm white has such a superior red/upper spectrum advantage over the outdoor white, why would you opt for the outdoor white instead of the warm white?

Why XP-G instead of XE-T?



If white bulbs are where it's at instead of the traditional red/blue combo, how come no one has done it until now?



Not making sense..
I know very little about LED technology. I'm a plant kind of gal.

BUT, I would say that you would want to push 10x more (actual amount depends on type of LEDs used, I suppose) because red is only a very narrow part of the PAR equation. A single white diode could potentially contain infinitely more wavelengths of light than a single red diode. Plants need a varied light diet.
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
For side lighting I would leave the globe. I took the globes off a few 6.5w Utilitechs, but the light is too concentrated for side lighting
 

Eraserhead

Well-Known Member
Gracias Pet. :bigjoint:

WW and NW are where it's at, as many peeps has shown right here already, SDS and his crew for one example. (Btw, congrats on getting your site launched, Prestashop ftw :blsmoke:)

Single colored LEDs on their own are way too spiky, and cause too many issues in growing, PH and calmag related, and more.

I chose outdoor white, which is essentially NW, but one of Cree's more costlier options, is their most efficient LED for what I am going for in terms of "completing the spectrum". That plus their XPE red makes the most radiometric power per watt consumed whilst completing the spectrum, than any other option I have explored.

I'm going to be first hand testing warm white XTE soon enough, I do believe they will need to be offset with some blue to work as a complete solution for veg and flowering. I can put them on separate circuits if need be.

I think once you're past your initial stretchy phase of your 12/12, anything more than 7.5% blue is wasted energy. Switches help that a lot.

Have a looksy at the new case for the all Cree XPG + XPE panel case:





^^ I'm down with EHs post.

In my current thread, I vegged under NW + WW. I only added a ufo 90 R/B cause it was time to give the 2 plants more light, and since I owned it, well...

But from what I document to a point in my thread, the combination of NW +WW will do a damn fine job start to finish for most strains
. Plus, 120-150w is all you need to illuminate a 2 X 4 tent, and possibly 4 X 4. I have ~ 120w in a 2 X 4. Plants are 2 mo, both were basketball size before I trimmed the lower branches.

Link in signature
 

FranJan

Well-Known Member
WW and NW are where it's at, as many peeps has shown right here already, SDS and his crew for one example. (Btw, congrats on getting your site launched, Prestashop ftw :blsmoke:)
Single colored LEDs on their own are way too spiky, and cause too many issues in growing, PH and calmag related, and more.
I chose outdoor white, which is essentially NW, but one of Cree's more costlier options, is their most efficient LED for what I am going for in terms of "completing the spectrum".
That's so funny. I'm waiting for you guys to put out a new panel so I can get rid of my NWs from my flowering room and you're putting them in your latest panel. LOL I love life, I just wish I was a better curve-ball hitter. LOL But seriously E are you saying that your latest panels are hitting levels where you're getting to saturation points on certain spectra and therefore green levels are increased to help get more photons into the plant? Is it something like that? I'm just on this anti NW kick in the flowering room since reading a posting by Hosebomber and because I have never seen any clear cut benefits of neutral whites in flowering since having them recommended to me sometime over a year ago by The Lurker, but I sure as shit don't know it all and LEDs do change rapidly.

As always, Best of Wishes to You E.
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
I too draw inspiration from The Lurker. Sorry he exited so soon. I assume you used the NW he recommended, if so, hard to know why you did not have success.

Not enough wattage? The NWs should provide ample blue and green, whereas the WWs should provide green, yellow and red to ~ 640nms. I was planning on using only these through harvest, but needed more watts and had better use for ~ $100, especially since I already own a ufo 90 R/B
 
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